Night Vision Super Yoter C - Any Experience Yet?

I'll try to add a few more details based on my use.

I know of at least 1 other SY-Cii that they have made since mine and I think it's currently available as special order.

I can confirm the 18x. These things are no joke. I have an Eotech ClipIR-xELR and it's debatable if there is 3x the money difference between the two. It depends on your priorities.

Gun profiles 1 and 2 position the icons along the edge of the screen for low power scopes. Profiles 3&4 move the icons in farther so they remain visible at higher magnifications. 2.5x is still ideal without cutting the screen off and loosing FOV.

When I ordered a QD mount for mine, it came with an accordion style light suppressor that can double as an eyepiece. The new model can still be used as a scanner if you absolutely have to. There is just no magnification built into the fixed eyepiece so you're looking at a very small, very high definition screen. It is far from ideal, but will work in a pinch.

@kirsch I know you're not a clip-on fan, but if you get a chance to try the new model, jump on it. I loaned it to a buddy who bought it from me last week. Side by side, it produced a better image than his Super Yoter-R.
Mine would be the other in the wild!

I will say the MAJOR down side is lack of abilities in changing the contrast. You can change colors and you can make it brighter. That's it. If they would do a software update to allow for more range of adjustment it would be fantastic.

As for useable at 18x? Ehhhh it is. But side by side with the UTC xii and ELR, it's blown out of the water for telling what's what quickly vs watching how something moves to get "PID".


Overall I'm happy with it, but I'll also be upgrading to the newer ELR that's coming out because it's nice enough to do so for the price.
 
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But side by side with the UTC xii and ELR, it's blown out of the water for telling what's what quickly vs watching how something moves to get "PID".
It is. As it should be. (5.5* FOV vs 8.8) I was impressed that there wasn't more difference.
The contrast thing is an issue once in a while. The animals don't seem to appear if there standing in front of something that's warmer than the background, but not as warm as the animal. I've noticed on all the Berings I've owned.
I will say that if the animal is in the open, it "pops" more than the Eotech, but the Eotech definitely gives more definition once you pick it out.

Overall I'm happy with it, but I'll also be upgrading to the newer ELR that's coming out because it's nice enough to do so for the price.
If I had known that the new Eotech was actually a MK1.5 with a replacement coming in a matter of months, I may have used the SY-Cii for a year before upgrading also.
 
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Can you define performance a little more specifically?
I can't think of a single thing the first one does that the Genii doesn't do better off the top of my head.
I guess just the clarity of the picture in general. My hopes was you’d say they were equal so I didn’t feel guilty going for a V1 so I could also use it as a scanner as well haha I’m sure you’d say the V1 is still very good. But I couldn’t live with myself knowing there was something better for the same/similar price.
 
I guess just the clarity of the picture in general. My hopes was you’d say they were equal so I didn’t feel guilty going for a V1 so I could also use it as a scanner as well haha I’m sure you’d say the V1 is still very good. But I couldn’t live with myself knowing there was something better for the same/similar price.
To the best of my knowledge, they use the same front sensor and lens, but the Genii has a better rear display and lens assembly. I feel the Genii produces a significantly better image that doesn't degrade as much with higher magnifications.

Also, my Genii had a scanner mode in the menu that increased the size of the icons. It's possible to use it as a scanner by just holding it to your eye, but the image is tiny since there's no magnifying eyepiece to swap on. It's not something I would want to do much

I said it in another post, but I would never give up all of the Genii features just for the scanner ability, but that's just me.
 
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Any more updates on the SY-Cii? I'm saving up some cash with the goal of replacing my Simrad with a thermal this winter, and the enhanced SY-Cii really interests me. I don't see any for sale and this thread is the only place I've found any mention of it.
 
It isn't in the 2023 Bering price guide at this point, so I don't believe it will be released anytime soon. I am guessing they are swamped trying to get the LRF units out as well as the Hogster Charge (NV unit). If I hear something on it, I will provide an update.
 
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There are two Super Yoter C models now. The newer one that some called V2, is now called the Bering Optics Super Yoter C. It is part# BE46155. This is the model records video and has WiFi. The legacy version is now called the Super Yoter C Universal, part# BE46150. We don't have them both on our website yet, but they can be ordered from Night Goggles.

When you order a clip-on from Bering, you can order it with an objective mount. You measure the outside diameter of the scope you want to use it on, and they will provide an adapter that attaches to the outside of the scope. The other option is to purchase it with a picatinny QD mount. Bering recommends the objective mount unless you need to use on multiple guns and/or your day scope isn't perfectly round.
 
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I’m looking at optic mounted clip ons to run with a HNT26 chassis and the V2 yoter C is top of the list after reading this thread. I’m also looking at the pulsar krypton 2 and sterner C35 V2 but I’m not sure either of those are even stateside yet.

Any more V2 yoters out in the wild being put through their paces? I’d really like to hear from anyone objective mounting them as well.
 
I’m looking at optic mounted clip ons to run with a HNT26 chassis and the V2 yoter C is top of the list after reading this thread. I’m also looking at the pulsar krypton 2 and sterner C35 V2 but I’m not sure either of those are even stateside yet.

Any more V2 yoters out in the wild being put through their paces? I’d really like to hear from anyone objective mounting them as well.
No experience with the Super yoter V2, but it has the same FOV as the V1. I had an FXG 50 and the yoter was the better clip on due to a lesser FOV and better eye piece glass (didn't blurry as fast as the FXG 50). Also, the steiner V2 more than likely has the same 12⁰ FOV, so the Super Yoter will support more mag than it still.
 
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I’m looking at optic mounted clip ons to run with a HNT26 chassis and the V2 yoter C is top of the list after reading this thread. I’m also looking at the pulsar krypton 2 and sterner C35 V2 but I’m not sure either of those are even stateside yet.

Any more V2 yoters out in the wild being put through their paces? I’d really like to hear from anyone objective mounting them as well.
I’m running the V2 currently and I’m happy with it for sure. I’ve killed a few coyotes with it, and shot it out to 400 yards on a 10in steel circle.

If you don’t have a FFP optic it will give you trouble. That happened to me at first. SFP optics cover too many pixels and cause zero shift as you increase power on the day scope and as you increase your shooting distance. It will be a repeatable shift, but a shift nonetheless.

I switched to a FFP optic and it has made a tremendous difference.

Also, the features are nice. Wi-Fi connectivity works well, and you can saver zero profiles for multiple rifles.

If you have other questions PM me I’ll be happy to answer. I am running it as a clip on. I forgot to mention that at the beginning of my message.
 
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I’m running the V2 currently and I’m happy with it for sure. I’ve killed a few coyotes with it, and shot it out to 400 yards on a 10in steel circle.

If you don’t have a FFP optic it will give you trouble. That happened to me at first. SFP optics cover too many pixels and cause zero shift as you increase power on the day scope and as you increase your shooting distance. It will be a repeatable shift, but a shift nonetheless.

I switched to a FFP optic and it has made a tremendous difference.

Also, the features are nice. Wi-Fi connectivity works well, and you can saver zero profiles for multiple rifles.

If you have other questions PM me I’ll be happy to answer. I am running it as a clip on. I forgot to mention that at the beginning of my message.

Thanks for the response. I’m running an FFP NX8 2.5-20 so no issues there. When you say you’re running it as a clip on do you mean rail or scope mounted?
 
Could someone objective mounting this tell me how much room is needed underneath the unit? The HNT26 forend sits above the barrel a bit.
 
Could someone objective mounting this tell me how much room is needed underneath the unit? The HNT26 forend sits above the barrel a bit.

I think that will depend on the adaptor and/or spacers you use.

I have 2 objective mounts a no name chinese and a smartclip I just measured them both and the chinamount is .350 and the smartclip is .150

Hope that helps
 
I think that will depend on the adaptor and/or spacers you use.

I have 2 objective mounts a no name chinese and a smartclip I just measured them both and the chinamount is .350 and the smartclip is .150

Hope that helps

You’re saying the chinamount one requires .350” underneath for clearance? Is that the lowest part of the assembly including the yoter? The rail on my chassis is the whole length so I have to account for clearance on the mount and thermal itself.
 
Pics for reference.

The thermal doesnt protrude any further down than the chinamount on a 40mm objective for reference. The 56mm smartclip is bigger than the thermal so non issue.
20240107_111250.jpg
 
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Pics for reference.

The thermal doesnt protrude any further down than the chinamount on a 40mm objective for reference. The 56mm smartclip is bigger than the thermal so non issue. View attachment 8316098

Thank you. My scopes a 50mm objective so I’m sure the adapter will be bigger then the thermal. If I step up to 1.26” rings that’ll give me about 5/16” from the bottom of the scope to the top of the forend.
 
Thank you. My scopes a 50mm objective so I’m sure the adapter will be bigger then the thermal. If I step up to 1.26” rings that’ll give me about 5/16” from the bottom of the scope to the top of the forend.
I've played with both versions and I would not objective mount either one unless you absolutely had to. Reason being is that the rear display is in the body of the scope and the lenses are housed in a separate section that is screwed onto the body. Objective mounting stresses the connection between the two and can cause a zero shift. The original version with the removable eyepiece for use as a scanner was really bad about this. The Genii is permanently affixed and is much better.

Both versions need a scope with adjustable parallax that goes down to 50yds or less. LPVO's with a fixed parallax such as a Geniii 1-10 razor will have as much a 1mil of cross hair movement if your eye position or cheekweld isn't perfect each time.
 
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I've played with both versions and I would not objective mount either one unless you absolutely had to. Reason being is that the rear display is in the body of the scope and the lenses are housed in a separate section that is screwed onto the body. Objective mounting stresses the connection between the two and can cause a zero shift. The original version with the removable eyepiece for use as a scanner was really bad about this. The Genii is permanently affixed and is much better.

Both versions need a scope with adjustable parallax that goes down to 50yds or less. LPVO's with a fixed parallax such as a Geniii 1-10 razor will have as much a 1mil of cross hair movement if your eye position or cheekweld isn't perfect each time.

The HNT26 is less the ideal for clip on use for multiple reasons and I’m running an NX8 2.5-20 which I’ve seen several guys using so that should be fine.
 
Snagged one of these used and it came with the handheld viewer installed.

I swapped to the clip on eye piece, and the image is great but sometimes is a little blurry through my scope if I don't have my head positioned just right (more than I would have expected, and much more finicky than my PVS30).

My question is, how do I make sure the clip on eye piece is installed correctly to get the best experience through the scope? Thanks!

Regarding imagery and blur, it's not easily avoided. Eye piece designs are the solution, and good eye pieces are typically costly. Parallax can fix some of the issue. Staying on low power can resolve some of the issue too. I haven't found a solution that entirely fixes the blur, unless like you said, you're perfectly square behind the day-optic.

i2 devices are analog - you see through them - much easier to control image quality as seen by their rather wide band of collimation tolerance. Thermals have a significantly tighter tolerance which is why the best solution is to have a co-planer day-optic and thermal clip-on.

Even bell mounting a thermal clip-on with a Rusan type adapter doesn't always get the thermal square to the display.

The issues outlined are typically why you see large variance in pricing based on convenience and capability.
 
Regarding imagery and blur, it's not easily avoided. Eye piece designs are the solution, and good eye pieces are typically costly. Parallax can fix some of the issue. Staying on low power can resolve some of the issue too. I haven't found a solution that entirely fixes the blur, unless like you said, you're perfectly square behind the day-optic.

i2 devices are analog - you see through them - much easier to control image quality as seen by their rather wide band of collimation tolerance. Thermals have a significantly tighter tolerance which is why the best solution is to have a co-planer day-optic and thermal clip-on.

Even bell mounting a thermal clip-on with a Rusan type adapter doesn't always get the thermal square to the display.

The issues outlined are typically why you see large variance in pricing based on convenience and capability.
Makes sense, I mill see if there's anything I can do to make things better (or possibly worse haha). I am using the ADM pic mount which has been great. Thanks for the input!
 
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how does the super yoter c work in front of a 4x acog , or eotech with 3x magnifier ?

primary use would be in front of a nx8 2.5-20 but was wondering how it would work on fixed lower power optics

edit : nevermind , went back to the first page and found pics
 
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If the base mag of the day scope is higher than around 3x, you will start to lose the icons around the edges of the screen, and it may be difficult to get the clip on zeroed with the day scope. This isn't just a Super Yoter C issue. It is a FOV issue of the day scope. However, it comes up a lot because the SY C can still yield a usable image at higher magnifications.

This thread is quite old and I thought it might be good to add some clarification. Due to feedback from members of Snipershide and other places, Bering does have 2 different Super Yoter C's:

Super Yoter C - Universal (BE46150) = This is what many people would call the original Super Yoter C or Version 1. It allows it to be used as a clip-on and a handheld scanner when using the eyepiece adapter. This model has a compass.

Super Yoter C (BE46155) = This is the newer version that some people started calling Version 2. It doesn't allow an eyepiece adapter and can handle more extreme maximum optical zoom of the day scope. This is designed to be a dedicated clip-on only. It does not have a compass.
 
thanks for the info on the 2 super yoter c's

i've seen the BE46155 listed with the wrong information more than once

do you know if the only difference in the 2 is the fixed eyepiece or were there other changes to the V2 version
 
thanks for the info on the 2 super yoter c's

i've seen the BE46155 listed with the wrong information more than once

do you know if the only difference in the 2 is the fixed eyepiece or were there other changes to the V2 version
I covered most of the differences around post 315.

The two major ones are a higher definition rear display along with onboard recording and wifi.
 
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Could someone objective mounting this tell me how much room is needed underneath the unit? The HNT26 forend sits above the barrel a bit.
I am running one on a HNT 26 with an objective mount (Rusan) on a 3-15 Minox. The HNT 26 forend has too much flex to run it on the forend. I am using the Vortex 1.45" rings with their diving board mount for my Impact 4000. I will see if I can get some pictures of it.
 
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I covered most of the differences around post 315.

The two major ones are a higher definition rear display along with onboard recording and wifi.
yeah i think i need to go back through this whole thread and give it a good going over

i thought it just had nicer glass in a fixed eyepiece but if it has a higher definition display i think that seals the deal for me between the two. being able to use it as a handheld scanner would be nice but not at the expense of a better picture and more optical magnification
 
I can't remember but does the newer version do digital zoom?
No, the new version does not have any digital zoom. The V1 (universal) allows it in scanner mode now only. When the V1 first released it allowed in clip-on and scanner mode but it was eventually removed as some people had issues with that feature.
 
If the base mag of the day scope is higher than around 3x, you will start to lose the icons around the edges of the screen, and it may be difficult to get the clip on zeroed with the day scope. This isn't just a Super Yoter C issue. It is a FOV issue of the day scope. However, it comes up a lot because the SY C can still yield a usable image at higher magnifications.

Wouldn't most of the issues with higher base magnifications be fixed if the UI was updated to place the nav/menu icons slightly more towards the center of the screen? Ideally a menu setting to adjust the display positioning for a few typical base magnifications.
 
i thought it just had nicer glass in a fixed eyepiece but if it has a higher definition display i think that seals the deal for me between the two. being able to use it as a handheld scanner would be nice but not at the expense of a better picture and more optical magnification
I wouldn't even consider the the first version. The removable eyepiece doesn't mount very secure and causes a zero shift if it moves, especially when objective mounted.
Wouldn't most of the issues with higher base magnifications be fixed if the UI was updated to place the nav/menu icons slightly more towards the center of the screen? Ideally a menu setting to adjust the display positioning for a few typical base magnifications.
It already does this when you switch to gun profiles 3 and 4.
 
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