Night Vision Super Yoter-R issue

[ThrowLead]

I have maybe 7 night hunts under my belt with the Yoter-R along with a few dogs down and so far I love the unit.

Last night the Yoter was performing as expected for most of the hunt, and then it did a normal auto-NUC after being recently powered up for a set. Maybe 3-4 nuc's in and it glitched just pre-NUC, it super pixelated the whole screen for a second or two prior to the NUC, the nuc (I have typed NUC a few times now and my computers autocorrect really doesn't like it) seemed to clear it back up but the picture did appear to not be as clear as it was before the glitch.
I was hoping it was a one time deal, but it proceeded to occur randomly for the rest of the night. It did get down to 4°F for a while, and in attempt to confirm it wasn't the cold (well above listed min temp) I left the rig outside today for a couple hours in about 25°, fired it up and it glitch once in about 7-10 NUC's.

I guess I just figured I would ask on here before calling/emailing Bering, and maybe the resident expert @kirsch could chime in. Has anyone else had any issue's with the Yoter? It would be my luck that I am the one with a (hopefully) rare problem!

I will say that scope sells itself, anytime a hunting buddy gets on my rife I get the "damn, I need this thermal".
We didn't have much yote action last night, we are in SE Michigan and do not have the multi thousand acre fields that make for easy spotting, but we did have a good hunt where we were surrounded with vocal yote's. I missed one as I rushed the shot because I think he spotted up and was about to bolt, luckily it didn't NUC-glitch or I would be blaming to Yoter-r !

 

[dirtytough]

Mine won’t hold zero. I shot the other day and it was low. I pulled the scope, remounted it and the bullets were touching. Got it zero’d, and whacked a triple. Went out last night and missed a chip shot. It looked like I hit low again.

Not very happy with it. It has a nice picture. But the picture doesn’t mean jack shit if it won’t hold zero.

Also the windage won’t adjust properly. Definitely won’t buy or recommend the Yoter R.

 

[ThrowLead]

Mine won’t hold zero. I shot the other day and it was low. I pulled the scope, remounted it and the bullets were touching. Got it zero’d, and whacked a triple. Went out last night and missed a chip shot. It looked like I hit low again.

Not very happy with it. It has a nice picture. But the picture doesn’t mean jack shit if it won’t hold zero.

Also the windage won’t adjust properly. Definitely won’t buy or recommend the Yoter R.

Man that sucks that you’re having issues. Would need to rule out the rifle and human error but it sounds like you have attempted that.

I was a little skeptical of not buying a “mainstream brand” but I did hear great things about Bering during my pre-purchase research, and not just from one dude on this forum! I was also told that Bering has been good at resolving any issues they do have.

In the end, shit happens and what counts is how they make it right.
But it is not exactly a cheap (at least for my wallet) unit, so I really would prefer to see zero issues. I didn’t just go the ATN route!

 

[dirtytough]

Man that sucks that you’re having issues. Would need to rule out the rifle and human error but it sounds like you have attempted that.

I was a little skeptical of not buying a “mainstream brand” but I did hear great things about Bering during my pre-purchase research, and not just from one dude on this forum! I was also told that Bering has been good at resolving any issues they do have.

In the end, shit happens and what counts is how they make it right.
But it is not exactly a cheap (at least for my wallet) unit, so I really would prefer to see zero issues. I didn’t just go the ATN route!

We have a season and I don’t want to send it back during the season. I never had an issue with the day scope holding zero. And the windage is definitely not working properly.

I have other Bering thermals. Just disappointed in the YoterR

 

[ThrowLead]

Just an update, and I wanted to reiterate that I am not attempting to bash the yoter!

I called Bering, no long wait time or automated menus! A helpful guy answered and transferred me to his tech support guy who listened to my issues and gave me a few options.

Asked me if I would want to send it in for them to look at and said the turnaround should be quick or if I would mind just attempting a hard / factory reset. He also gave me a direct contact number!

I don’t want to waste my / Bering’s time if there is a chance that a quick reset could fix ‘er up!

I did the reset and simply had to set the time and date along with a few other settings, zero holds!

I powered it up and did not notice the issue, but it was somewhat random on the last hunt so I won’t know for sure until I get it back out in the field.

I hope it is g2g but it was a good experience with Bering, that says something.

 

[Capitol5868]

Dont worry Kirsch will be here soon to tell you why its not the Super Yoters fault.

 

[cschastain2]

That’s great…I hope it holds up for you!

 

[BlwnGazkit]

Mine does this as well, including after a reset.

Mine will be going in for service later this week I think.

 

[kirsch]

Dont worry Kirsch will be here soon to tell you why its not the Super Yoters fault.

Thank you!

I guess I just figured I would ask on here before calling/emailing Bering, and maybe the resident expert @kirsch could chime in. Has anyone else had any issue's with the Yoter? It would be my luck that I am the one with a (hopefully) rare problem!

Sorry SuperYoter, I didn't see your post until today. As per the situation described, I have reported an issue to Bering that is probably the same thing you have described. I call it the stained-glass NUC. It seems to occur when the temps are below freezing. I can get a NUC that is about twice as long as they normally would be with a screen that looks like snow, distortion, or what I call a Stained-Glass window. There is a slight degradation in image that clears up after a little more time. This doesn't happen often to my Super Yoter but it does happen approximately one time for about 1-2 seconds during an entire night of hunting. It also happens on my Phenom once in a while. It seems to happen within the first 10 minutes of startup. If a person isn't looking through the scope at the exact instance, you wouldn't know it occurs. Besides a minor reduction in image for a brief period, it has no real impact on the functionality of the scope. It happens so quick, it would be almost impossible to get a screen grab of it, but since I record my entire hunt, I have it recorded on a few videos. I have included an example of it below. Since it hasn't impacted my hunting, Bering has asked for me to send in my scope when my night season is done which I plan to do.

 

[DutyRanger]

Do we know if this is happening with any of the clip ons? I've got a clip on en route and my temps are always cold. Wondering if I can expect to see this?

 

[kirsch]

I have not heard anything about this on the Super Yoter C but there are so many more Super Yoter Rs being used right now. Even it if does happen, like I have said, one NUC that lasts 2x as long once a night isn't going to stop you from hunting. Bering's NUC is faster than many other brands already, so it would be a fairly standard NUC on other brands as far as how long the NUC takes. If it wasn't for the display showing the odd image, people wouldn't notice. It sounds like I am making excuses and I am not. Bering is investigating. If it is happening to you, I would recommend you send a message to [email protected] reporting it is happening. In the meantime, I just continue to put down coyotes with it.

 

[stefan73]

Doesn't it use the Iray sensor? I ask because the Rico's have an operational range on the low end of -4F according to Iray USA. The MH series requires warmer temps.

If it doesn't use the Iray sensors than please correct me.

 

[kirsch]

Doesn't it use the Iray sensor? I ask because the Rico's have an operational range on the low end of -4F according to Iray USA. The MH series requires warmer temps.

If it doesn't use the Iray sensors than please correct me.

The Hogsters, Phenom, and Yoters do use the iRay sensors. Bering claims they direct heat to the critical components to allow them to work in colder temps. Bering specs say -14° on the Hogsters and Yoters. I have run a Super Hogster down to -30°F and the Super Yoters down to -20°. The Phenom is rated for only -4 and I have used that down to -30°F as well. Overall, they have worked just fine. I wouldn't recommend leaving them out in those temps for hours at a time but 30 minute coyote stands were fine.

 

[stefan73]

The Hogsters, Phenom, and Yoters do use the iRay sensors. Bering claims they direct heat to the critical components to allow them to work in colder temps. Bering specs say -14° on the Hogsters and Yoters. I have run a Super Hogster down to -30°F and the Super Yoters down to -20°. The Phenom is rated for only -4 and I have used that down to -30°F as well. Overall, they have worked just fine. I wouldn't recommend leaving them out in those temps for hours at a time but 30 minute coyote stands were fine.

So they are using a different sensor than the Rico's. Had to ask.

 

[kirsch]

So they are using a different sensor than the Rico's. Had to ask.

I already answered the question saying yes, the newer Bering models ARE using an iRay sensor including the Super Yoter. I have not used a Rico but since it is an iRay product, I assume it has an iRay sensor in it. If I am reading between the lines, it seems you are trying to say if the Rico and Yoter both use the same sensor, why is their temperature rating different? There are many components that impact a thermal's temperature rating beyond the sensor but please help me understand what you are looking for me to answer.

 

[TheHorta]

Lest any think this is reserved strictly to Chynah-sourced units, a few guys with brand new US-made $16,000 Voodoo-S units are also having problems.

It’s not all sunshine and roses in Thermal Nirvana either.

 

[stefan73]

I already answered the question saying yes, the newer Bering models ARE using an iRay sensor including the Super Yoter. I have not used a Rico but since it is an iRay product, I assume it has an iRay sensor in it. If I am reading between the lines, it seems you are trying to say if the Rico and Yoter both use the same sensor, why is their temperature rating different? There are many components that impact a thermal's temperature rating beyond the sensor but please help me understand what you are looking for me to answer.

I was wondering what sensor they are using. Iray produces more than one or two sensors and I was trying to determine if the sensor or system Bering uses has the same operational constraints? But, ultimately the answer to your question is yes.

 

[stefan73]

Lest any think this is reserved strictly to Chynah-sourced units, a few guys with brand new US-made $16,000 Voodoo-S units are also having problems.

It’s not all sunshine and roses in Thermal Nirvana either.

That sucks! Especially the $16K and having issues.

 

[Ksracer]

Do we know if this is happening with any of the clip ons? I've got a clip on en route and my temps are always cold. Wondering if I can expect to see this?

I've been out twice with mine in 20*f temps and haven't noticed anything. But I wouldn't call 20*f cold either, and 2 trips don't mean it won't happen the third time.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Lest any think this is reserved strictly to Chynah-sourced units, a few guys with brand new US-made $16,000 Voodoo-S units are also having problems.

It’s not all sunshine and roses in Thermal Nirvana either.

Yep its bend over. We may or may not use lube is the $64 question.

Lube is good. No lube is bad. And Flir's baseball bat is the worst.

 

[ThrowLead]

Thank you!


Sorry SuperYoter, I didn't see your post until today. As per the situation described, I have reported an issue to Bering that is probably the same thing you have described. I call it the stained-glass NUC. It seems to occur when the temps are below freezing. I can get a NUC that is about twice as long as they normally would be with a screen that looks like snow, distortion, or what I call a Stained-Glass window. There is a slight degradation in image that clears up after a little more time. This doesn't happen often to my Super Yoter but it does happen approximately one time for about 1-2 seconds during an entire night of hunting. It also happens on my Phenom once in a while. It seems to happen within the first 10 minutes of startup. If a person isn't looking through the scope at the exact instance, you wouldn't know it occurs. Besides a minor reduction in image for a brief period, it has no real impact on the functionality of the scope. It happens so quick, it would be almost impossible to get a screen grab of it, but since I record my entire hunt, I have it recorded on a few videos. I have included an example of it below. Since it hasn't impacted my hunting, Bering has asked for me to send in my scope when my night season is done which I plan to do.

View attachment 7804293

Thanks for the info. I haven’t had the yoter out for another cold night yet so I am not sure if the issue persists. As you said it’s not a hunt ending fault but it does skew the picture quality a bunch, regardless I hope it’s a quick fix that I can address post season when the crops keep the yotes safe!

As others have said it’s not just the “cheap” $5k rigs that have issues, even the big money stuff can have faults. Let’s just hope it’s a small batch/simple fix like a firmware update.

 

[shoots100]

All display types are susceptible to extreme cold temps, but some types handle it better than others.
N Vis uses OLED
Bering uses LCOS displays in the Hogster line and OLED in the SY.
Pulsar uses AMOLED
AGM uses OLED
iRay uses AMOLED in the Rico MK line and LCOS in the Bolt.

AMOLED is a step up from OLED in resolution, clarity and cost.
That's why the top cell phone and TV manufacturers use AMOLED screens.
AMOLED displays handle cold weather better than std OLED and LCOS displays because of the lack of liquid crystals.
The cold also causes a severe drain on batteries, causing a voltage drop that will further debilitate a display.
I was out in -29 for a few hours a couple of weeks ago with my XG50 and had no issues, except that it was consuming batteries a lot quicker than normal.
I had to keep my AGM spotter with OLED display under my jacket, because it was lagging.
It was useable, just not as useable as the XG.
A firmware update won't be able to change the display's composition.

 

[WhereNow&How]

@ shoots100 How do 1280 x 960 FLCOS displays perform against the ones you listed.

 

[shoots100]

FLIR used the VGA FLCOS display and I don't recollect anything special about it or know it's limitations in extreme cold temps.
I will look it up.
Being it's not used in any of the other manufacturers, it's probably to expensive to produce or doesn't work.

 

[WhereNow&How]

FLIR used the VGA FLCOS display and I don't recollect anything special about it or know it's limitations in extreme cold temps.
I will look it up.
Being it's not used in any of the other manufacturers, it's probably to expensive to produce or doesn't work.

Let me know what you find out about those displays. Thanks

 

[kirsch]

Thanks for the info. I haven’t had the yoter out for another cold night yet so I am not sure if the issue persists. As you said it’s not a hunt ending fault but it does skew the picture quality a bunch, regardless I hope it’s a quick fix that I can address post season when the crops keep the yotes safe!

One thing to try is once it happens, try a quick manual NUC. Hold down the two buttons closest to you. If it clears it up the image, great. If it doesn't close the end cap, hold down the first two buttons with a long push (3 seconds or more), and keep holding until the graphic to close the end cap goes away. This is a background NUC. If the first doesn't clear it up, the 2nd should. As I mentioned before, I would recommend sending a message to Bering ([email protected] or [email protected]) for anyone experiencing this, so they know it is happening to more units.

 

[chopit]

I got my brand new yoter on friday. Hunted all night last night. Used my handheld mostly so yoter was on maybe an hour at the most total. It did that washout like the picture in kirsch post above 3 times. It would immediatley come back after and function normal. I did not notice a difference in the picture when it returned. It was only 26 last night.

 

[ThrowLead]

One thing to try is once it happens, try a quick manual NUC. Hold down the two buttons closest to you. If it clears it up the image, great. If it doesn't close the end cap, hold down the first two buttons with a long push (3 seconds or more), and keep holding until the graphic to close the end cap goes away. This is a background NUC. If the first doesn't clear it up, the 2nd should. As I mentioned before, I would recommend sending a message to Bering ([email protected] or [email protected]) for anyone experiencing this, so they know it is happening to more units.

Just sent Bering an email.

I got my brand new yoter on friday. Hunted all night last night. Used my handheld mostly so yoter was on maybe an hour at the most total. It did that washout like the picture in kirsch post above 3 times. It would immediatley come back after and function normal. I did not notice a difference in the picture when it returned. It was only 26 last night.

Damn, sucks that it seems to be common!

 

[chopit]

Mine were only a split second longer that a normal nuc. It wasnt a problem unless it happened right when i shoot.

 

[kirsch]

Mine were only a split second longer that a normal nuc. It wasnt a problem unless it happened right when i shoot.

It is associated with the NUC, so if your count-down timer (5 seconds) is not showing in the corner, you should be good.

 

[BlwnGazkit]

It is associated with the NUC, so if your count-down timer (5 seconds) is not showing in the corner, you should be good.

Mine is back at Bering for them to look at for this issue.

I will say mine would do this even with auto-nuc disabled. I don't like auto-nuc since my luck makes it happen when I want to shoot!

I suppose my issue could be different as my screen would display the static for 1-2 seconds and THEN I would hear the auto-nuc shutter close and it would nuc without any I put from me. Struck me as the firmware recognizing and error had occurred and was correcting it.

It would do this every 10-15 minutes for about an hour. Made me think it had something to do with the scope coming down to ambient temps, solder joint and case shrinkage kind of issue related to temperature change.

 

[ThrowLead]

Mine is back at Bering for them to look at for this issue.

I will say mine would do this even with auto-nuc disabled. I don't like auto-nuc since my luck makes it happen when I want to shoot!

I suppose my issue could be different as my screen would display the static for 1-2 seconds and THEN I would hear the auto-nuc shutter close and it would nuc without any I put from me. Struck me as the firmware recognizing and error had occurred and was correcting it.

It would do this every 10-15 minutes for about an hour. Made me think it had something to do with the scope coming down to ambient temps, solder joint and case shrinkage kind of issue related to temperature change.

That sucks. Keep us posted on how the fox goes. Thanks

 

[ThrowLead]

Just had the yoter out for a few hours in 25°ish, nasty windchill but the scope doesn’t feel that!

I issue occurred twice that I noticed, this is post factory reset that Bering advised trying.

Less than thrilled, maybe I should have gone Triji or Halo. Shit happens and it could happen to the big names also.

Has anyone (@kirsch)heard of a solution or even a cause? I’ll give Bering a call Monday but figured I’d check in.

 

[shoots100]

The scopes display is lagging because of the cold.
I would try insulating around the eyepiece with some closed cell pipe insulation or get some type of neoprene scope cover to try and keep the display from freezing.
I always have a scopeslicker cover on my Thermion while it's sitting idle or in transit and if you look at the scope with another thermal, it has a hotter heat signature while it's covered.
It's made for a tube style scope.
I have a scopecoat on my Rattler 25.
While I haven't done any severe cold weather testing with it yet and being it has an OLED display, I'm sure it'll have the same lag as my taipan spotter if left out in the severe cold.
Both of the covers are easily removed and have have some sort of tether.
I don't know if a neoprene cover will solve the issue, but it's a cheap way to find out.

 

[kirsch]

The issue SuperYoter and others are described is not scope lag. It is something happening to the sensor/shutter NUC process as shown in my image earlier in this thread. I have sent samples to Bering and have recommended people send an email to [email protected] or [email protected] to report it. I have not heard if Bering has found a solution to it yet.

It simply acts like a longer NUC. If the display didn't get artifact looking, most people would never know it happened. It clears itself up, with some users reporting a minor reduction in image quality right after. Close the end cap, and hold the two buttons closest to you until the "close end cap image disappears". This should help the image quality. Hopefully, Bering will find an answer or solution to this, but the scope is totally useable this way. 250+ coyotes this winter have already found out how deadly the Super Yoter is by me personally.

 

[chopit]

I sent an email on feb 13th and have yet to get a response.

 

[shoots100]

Not contesting the lethality of the SY in the right hands.
I was responding on the reports that some scopes have/had no issues in regular temps, but are having issues in colder temps.
So based on that, it would seem that it's a temp related issue causing shutter lag in some scopes, not display lag, that's been a known issue with any liquid crystal display in cold temps.

 

[kirsch]

it would seem that it's a temp related issue causing shutter lag in some scopes, not display lag, that's been a known issue with any liquid crystal display in cold temps.

It could be, and hopefully Bering will get it figured out. Why it only happens once (at least to me) a night and not continuously in the cold temps is a stumper. The last time I used mine it was almost -20F and no issues at all, so colder doesn't seem to make it worse.

This is the video when I crossed the 200-mark this winter awhile back. I am a few weeks behind in my video editing.

 

[ThrowLead]

Not saying that the rig is unusable, but I would like some clarification on the issue.

On last nights hunt I only noticed the “stained-glass” screen once, but I did notice an extra long NUC without the crazy screen and it appeared that the picture was darker after that NUC. On a previous hunt it occurred 4-5 times on a single stand, so maybe 30 minutes of run time. So it is a little hard to point fingers as to what is causing it.

I know super yoter money doesn’t require a mortgage refi but hell, I have bought decent cars for less than what I paid for that scope! It is a chunk of change (for myself) for a rifle scope and I hope it gets hashed out.

I also emailed Bering a few weeks again as you suggested, no response yet. I’ll give them a call on Monday and see how that goes. Like I said before, shit happens. If the wife wouldn’t nut punch me I would just go buy a Triji and a Halo for the odd time when one of them has issues! These days extra gear isn’t a bad idea, that’s for sure.

 

[kirsch]

Per a recent email from Bering, their current thinking is there appears to be a synchronization issue between the 640 core shutter and the algorithm that facilitates the image transfer process with the moment the NUC is released. Their IT team is looking for a software solution.

Like I said before, shit happens. If the wife wouldn’t nut punch me I would just go buy a Triji and a Halo for the odd time when one of them has issues! These days extra gear isn’t a bad idea, that’s for sure.

Trijicon and Nvision make great units, but there is no brand that doesn't have any issues. Bering Optics thermals has been among the best for lowest % of RMAs for all the brands that Night Goggles carries.

 

[ThrowLead]

Per a recent email from Bering, their current thinking is there appears to be a synchronization issue between the 640 core shutter and the algorithm that facilitates the image transfer process with the moment the NUC is released. Their IT team is looking for a software solution.



Trijicon and Nvision make great units, but there is no brand that doesn't have any issues. Bering Optics thermals has been among the best for lowest % of RMAs for all the brands that Night Goggles carries.

Thanks for the update. Would be nice if it was software vs. hardware!
When I said buy a Triji /N-vision I was getting at 3 is better than one, if I had unlimited funds I would have a few! I am not bashing Bering, I am aware that even the best / most expensive can and will have issues.

On another note, have you experienced any POI shift with any Bering units? I myself have NOT but some seem to attribute the composite scope body to POI shift in other manufacturers products.

Again thanks for the update from Bering.

 

[kirsch]

On another note, have you experienced any POI shift with any Bering units? I myself have NOT but some seem to attribute the composite scope body to POI shift in other manufacturers products.

The majority of POI issues with Bering thermals are people mounting their compact thermals too far back. On the Bering standard and tactical QD mounts, it should be on the 4th slot from the back as a minimum and on the SY the 6th slot. It really isn't any farther back or forward, but the standard mount has a rail post in the middle of the mount, where the SY uses the front of the mount as the rail post/lug. I like the new LaRue mount on the SY a lot, but you do need to make sure the entire mount is supported by the rail.

Handle tension is another common problem with handles being too loose or too tight. Of course things like writing down your zero and selecting the right profile, using a consistent small target that doesn’t bloom, zeroing using same rest as you shoot with in the field are important also to retaining a consistent zero.

I have shot my SY from 80° down to -25°. Over, this entire time, I have changed my zero 1 to 2 adjustments (.5 to 1"). To me based on how my gun and ammo shoots in a 100° temp swing, I find that pretty awesome. On a recent -20° night, I moved the scope from my AR to my bolt as my AR needed a cleaning. I hadn't shot my bolt since it was around 40°. 60° temp swing. I used my existing bolt gun profile, and checked my zero. My shot hit dead-center bullseye at 100. I proceeded to go out and knock down 9 coyotes that night and didn't touch my zero. That is my experience. I can also say with the large number of SYs that Night Goggles has sold, I am not aware of a one that has been sent back due to POI issues. However, there are some that swear it happens to them. I can find a thread on every thermal brand that has someone saying their POI is moving on their brand of thermal.

 

[Colt250]

Not saying that the rig is unusable, but I would like some clarification on the issue.

On last nights hunt I only noticed the “stained-glass” screen once, but I did notice an extra long NUC without the crazy screen and it appeared that the picture was darker after that NUC. On a previous hunt it occurred 4-5 times on a single stand, so maybe 30 minutes of run time. So it is a little hard to point fingers as to what is causing it.

I know super yoter money doesn’t require a mortgage refi but hell, I have bought decent cars for less than what I paid for that scope! It is a chunk of change (for myself) for a rifle scope and I hope it gets hashed out.

I also emailed Bering a few weeks again as you suggested, no response yet. I’ll give them a call on Monday and see how that goes. Like I said before, shit happens. If the wife wouldn’t nut punch me I would just go buy a Triji and a Halo for the odd time when one of them has issues! These days extra gear isn’t a bad idea, that’s for sure.

Did you ever get in contact with Bering? I'm curious if there's any update on this issue or if they had anything in the works as a solution.

 

[kirsch]

I have been told by Bering they do have an update that may help with this situation. All software updates are done at Bering, so you would need to get in contact with them and work out the details to get it sent in. I am still hunting and since it is mainly a cosmetic issue, I will be waiting for my night hunting season to end before sending it in. I cannot verify if it is fixed or not, but again have heard there is a potential update to help with this situation.

 

[E-Tool]

Mine had a screen glitch once, I rebooted and it hasn’t happened since.

Has held zero, but now you have me wanting to go verify again.

 

[BlwnGazkit]

Well, mine is on the way back from Bering; I should have it in my hands later today (FedEx so who knows these days).

I was told they replaced (2) electrical components but they didn't/couldn't elaborate on what the components were.

I'll be testing it out this weekend as the weather should be conducive to replicating the original conditions. Fingers Crossed!

 

[ThrowLead]

Well, mine is on the way back from Bering; I should have it in my hands later today (FedEx so who knows these days).

I was told they replaced (2) electrical components but they didn't/couldn't elaborate on what the components were.

I'll be testing it out this weekend as the weather should be conducive to replicating the original conditions. Fingers Crossed!

Thanks for the update, let’s hope it’s good to go. It would be nice to know what components where replaced damnit.

Keep us updated.

 

[BlwnGazkit]

Well, still does it.

If anything it's worse.

Before it only lasted a moment and would auto-nuc to clear itself. Now there's no auto-nuc and I have to manually clear it.


It's definitely something related to the display as everything on the display was garbled, even the menu.

 

[BlwnGazkit]

Out of curiosity, do these match yalls? I'll try and get a picture of the static screen next time it does it.

 

[ThrowLead]

Well, still does it.

If anything it's worse.

Before it only lasted a moment and would auto-nuc to clear itself. Now there's no auto-nuc and I have to manually clear it.


It's definitely something related to the display as everything on the display was garbled, even the menu.

View attachment 7826217

Out of curiosity, do these match yalls? I'll try and get a picture of the static screen next time it does it.

Well shit, I was hoping that Bering would have handled it on the first attempt. One of the reasons I went with the yoter was the reports from multiple sources that Bering had good CS.

I’ll take a look at my units version info in a few.

Thanks for the update.