That’s where we disagree, I wouldn’t call this a cosmetic issue. The defect could negatively impact a hunt, highly unlikely but it could for sure.
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Night Vision Super Yoter-R issue
- Thread starter ThrowLead
- Start date
It is entirely possible the changes they made were hardware since you mentioned they replaced some components and was shipped before the software update was finished as the update was very recently completed. I would get a hold of Bering and find out if the software was updated. We are all guessing, and Bering would be the only one who would know what software version contained the potential fix for the Stained-Glass NUC.
I'm in contact with them today via text. Currently they're hoping I can get a photo of the screen on mine.
For what it's worth to anyone, I changed back to 3.0v & CR123's and have not seen the issue in (2) sets of batteries.
I'm going to burn through the rest of the pair that's in it now and then change back over to 3.7v & RCR123A's and see if it comes back.
I'm going to burn through the rest of the pair that's in it now and then change back over to 3.7v & RCR123A's and see if it comes back.
Interesting, I have never used the 3.7v rechargeable deals, and I still have the issue. I have experienced the goofy screen issue with both the 3v Surefire CR123A's and the Anker USB power supply. Leads me to believe that it is not a power supply issue.
Keep us updated. I left Bering a voicemail a few weeks ago but they unfortunately never returned my call.
If you need Bering support, I would call 817-453-9966 and keep calling until someone picks up.
I don't call that unfortunate. I call that bad service.
I would expect that out of Flir or one of the big boys, but Bering is a smaller company and should have much better customer response than what you are describing. That's just my 2 cents.
So Super Yoter is having trouble getting up with Support. You are on the forums pushing Berings product and part of the "team" so to speak.
One would think you might intervene to get the parties in touch with each other in a prompt timeframe, given he is having trouble and you have Bearings "ear".
I am part of the Night Goggles "Team" and we happen to be a dealer that carries Bering thermals along with Pulsar, Trijicon, Nvision, and Flir to name a few others. One of my roles with Night Goggles is testing thermals. Bering sends Night Goggles a lot of thermals to test. I wish more companies did this. Due to this, I have gained a lot of experience using Bering thermals and yes I try to help people on this forum and many other forums with their questions. When I see comments saying I "push" Bering thermals or I am the "Bering Optics Whisperer", it belittles what I try to do for this forum. This is not something I or Night Goggles has to do but chooses to do for the good of the community.
If a Night Goggles customer is having an issue with a Bering thermal (or anything they bought from Night Goggles), they are welcome to contact Night Goggles, and yes we will help in anyway we can. SuperYoter is trying to reach Bering Optics support. When I contact Bering support for myself or on behalf of a Night Goggles customer , I call 817-453-9966, and I keep calling until they picked up. I am just relaying what I do.
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Well from your posts about being a tester of "prototypes" for Bering and posts about your direct emails with Bering about issues and suggestions to them on your findings with their products and then their feed back to you, this infers that you have a pretty close relationship and ability to talk directly to the "higher ups".
Point being that Super Yoter has a problem and has been waiting at least a few weeks with no contract from Bering and you are on this very thread, so I maybe thought it would be proper and timely for you to fulfil all of your "testing feedback" for Bering by notifying them that their Support is SUCKING in regards to getting back with this Bering thermal owner that has a problem instead of telling him to just keep calling them.
That's all I was getting at. Provide some real help to a frustrated brother on a unit that you were a tester on.
Sorry if that offends you. It is just my observation of the entire situation in totality.
Anyone know of any updates on this issue?
I haven’t had the yoter out much so it hasn’t been troubling me but it’s in the back of my mind for when yote season turns on. Also not sure if it would even have the issue considering it seemed to be more likely to have the issue in the cold.
I haven’t had the yoter out much so it hasn’t been troubling me but it’s in the back of my mind for when yote season turns on. Also not sure if it would even have the issue considering it seemed to be more likely to have the issue in the cold.
Bering does have a firmware update to address the stained-glass/stary-night NUC or whatever you wish to call it. It happened infrequently and seemed to only happen in cold weather. I have had my Super Yoter 50 and my Phenom 640 updated. However, it is difficult to confirm 100% that it is fixed. I placed my SY50 in the freezer (for all of you) in a Ziplock for 2 hours with it recording and then watched two hours of footage back, and it didn't happen during my test. However, even before the fix it would only happen once or twice a night (at least for me) at most while recording for an entire night. The firmware update impacts all Bering 640 models including the Yoters and Phenom. If you wish to have the firmware of your Bering thermal updated, contact Night Goggles at 817-453-9966 or email [email protected] to begin the process.
To repeat the situation, in cold temps, some Bering thermals a few times a night when the unit NUC'd, the NUC would take about 2 seconds vs the normal split second NUC. During this longer NUC, the screen looked like a stained-glass window or starry night. When the unit finishes the NUC, it clears up the image. I shot over 250 coyotes with a SY50 last winter alone, and it did not mess up a hunt or ruin the chances at a shot.
To repeat the situation, in cold temps, some Bering thermals a few times a night when the unit NUC'd, the NUC would take about 2 seconds vs the normal split second NUC. During this longer NUC, the screen looked like a stained-glass window or starry night. When the unit finishes the NUC, it clears up the image. I shot over 250 coyotes with a SY50 last winter alone, and it did not mess up a hunt or ruin the chances at a shot.
Well, classic case of procrastination!
Had the yote rig out yesterday to warm it up some and the Super yoter NUC’ed, the crappy “stained glass” screen is back to haunt me.
In BO’s defense I haven’t giving them the opportunity to fix it but I’ll give them a call next week.
It was in the mid 50°’s yesterday so it not isolated to simply extreme cold.
Just figured I’d update and see if anyone has had any luck with a FW update, also wondering if the newer units have the issue?
Had the yote rig out yesterday to warm it up some and the Super yoter NUC’ed, the crappy “stained glass” screen is back to haunt me.
In BO’s defense I haven’t giving them the opportunity to fix it but I’ll give them a call next week.
It was in the mid 50°’s yesterday so it not isolated to simply extreme cold.
Just figured I’d update and see if anyone has had any luck with a FW update, also wondering if the newer units have the issue?
It has only happened to me when near or below freezing temps. I haven’t seen it happen above 40° personally but that is to my units.
I did send in my Phenom 640 and SY50. Bering doesn’t release firmware updates like most companies. You need to contact them and arrange for service. With how infrequent it happens and temps being fairly warm still it is hard to know. I can say it still is happening to my Phenom but haven’t seen it on the Super Yoter yet. It is easier to tell on my scanner because I am looking through it on a more consistent basis.
I will have a better idea if it is happening as winter approaches and can provide updates on if it occurs on my SY unit.
I did send in my Phenom 640 and SY50. Bering doesn’t release firmware updates like most companies. You need to contact them and arrange for service. With how infrequent it happens and temps being fairly warm still it is hard to know. I can say it still is happening to my Phenom but haven’t seen it on the Super Yoter yet. It is easier to tell on my scanner because I am looking through it on a more consistent basis.
I will have a better idea if it is happening as winter approaches and can provide updates on if it occurs on my SY unit.
I did send my SY back since it wouldn’t hold zero. And it wasn’t adjusting properly when trying to zero. It would move about 2.5” instead of 0.58”.
They replaced the control board. I did zero it after getting it back and it seemed to adjust properly. I haven’t shot it since so not sure if it is holding zero or not.
Hopefully it holds zero this year.
They replaced the control board. I did zero it after getting it back and it seemed to adjust properly. I haven’t shot it since so not sure if it is holding zero or not.
Hopefully it holds zero this year.
Dirty,
Hopefully, it is working as expected now. We probably talked about this in the past but the majority of Bering thermals where zero isn’t holding ends up being the picatinny mount being placed too far back. On their standard QD mount, the rail post should be 4 rail slots or more in from the end. On the LaRue mount, it uses the front of the mount as the rail post, so 6 slots in from the front of the mount as a minimum.
If the board was bad, it probably was the cause of both but just mentioning in case it applies to you or too others.
The other most common situation is not tightening the tension on the locking handle.
I definitely had enough slots. I had extra to the rear of the mount so that should be a non issue.
The locking lever could have been an issue but I don’t think it was. I did adjust it after it not holding zero and still had the issue. I have used and have multiple other thermals and never had a zero issue.
If I went to the range and zero’d it. I could take it off and put it back on and it was returning to zero. It was always on at least for the rest of that night. But 2-3 nights later I’m missing chip shots.
It’s a really nice thermal when it works. I just hope I don’t have any issues anymore.
Which specific issue as a few people jumped on the thread talking about different things? If you are referring to the stained-glass NUC which was the original post, it seems to be improved. The problem lies with the 640 iRay sensor. Bering has tried to fix it with a firmware tweak. After sending my unit in, it happens less on my SY than before, but it still happens maybe one time in 3 or 4 hunts. It is simply a NUC that lasts about 2x as long as normal with odd artifacts on the screen for that brief duration. It hasn't impacted my hunting one time and that is after shooting almost 600 coyotes in the last 1.5 winters.
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Yes, the “stained glass” effect. It was mentioned the image was noticeably degraded for a bit after this. If it’s just a long nuc then no biggie.
I have both the SY and the SH. My SY has been having some POI issues as of late, causing me to have to shoot before every hunt. POI all over the place, recitals disappearing, but not the stained-glass issue in a while. Maybe only 3 times in over a year. I use the Apex external power source and do not install the batteries. Powering the unit down is basically unplugging the battery. I never, NEVER, take my SY off of my AR. I just use the SH as a handheld. I have called and emailed BO with no response. I have read through countless forums and only see that maybe moving the QR mount forward or something to help keep zero? But that doesn't explain the recitals disappearing and having to do the old hold 2 buttons and hit the center button 4-time trick. If I need to send it back I will, but man this is a terrible time to be with out.
If you do not power the unit down through the scope, settings will not save. As part of the powering down procedure is when settings are saved including reticles, colors, and backgrounds. I am a bit worried if you are powering it down via external battery this may be causing some of your issues. The only Bering products where you had to power the unit off by disconnecting was the original Hogster (pre-Vibe models). Even for those scopes, you had to go through the power-down procedure, the settings would save, and then disconnect from power.
If I am misunderstanding and you are powering down the scope through the Buttons, the other reason settings can get lost or reset is due to the internal battery of the unit going bad that stores the internal settings. I have also seen power surges (especially when using magnetic connections) cause this situation to happen where settings are lost. If it is the scope and not power, it will need to get sent back to Bering.
As for comments on the QR mount holding, the LaRue mount is very good at holding and returning to zero. However, since the rail lug is the front of the scope mount, it should sit 6 slots or more from the end of the rail or it will not hold POI. There is too much mount and scope hanging off the back. For others with the standard Bering mount, they recommend 4 rail slots. If you have it far enough forward, and the handle is tight, and you still are losing POI (and you are sure it isn't your gun), it is time to call Bering. I would call not email and you will most likely talk to Diana or Alek, and they are usually very helpful. I personally get better response when calling 817-453-9966 vs emailing. With SHOT show coming soon, I would try again soon. If you cannot reach them, I would contact the dealer you bought it from to assist. I talk to Bering a lot, and I use the exact same number and don't have issues getting through.
Some people like to say I make excuses for Bering. In reality, I find the answers above solve a lot of the issues. It may not solve Freak on a leash's, but it was worth a try.
I wanted to relay a similar situation that happened to me lately. I have tested every Bering model released in the last 4 years, so I have a pretty good idea of what to expect from their thermals as well as my own guns. I was testing an early Bering LRF prototype and when I would zoom, I couldn't hit a 3' x 3' target. This is with a custom-built AR that shoots sub .5 MOA every day with my reloads. This has to be the scope, right, because when I would zoom, I would miss the target. It wasn't. I put the prototype thermal on a secured tripod all by itself and left it for 4 hours in the freezing cold. Every 30 minutes or so I would zoom the scope. After 4 hours, the image was exactly where it started. I then put the scope on another gun and had zero problems. I was 100% sure the problem was the scope, and it turns out, I had a COL issue on a batch of my loads that was causing a random flyer and it just happened to coincide when I had pressed the zoom button. I would have bet any-amount of money the problem wasn't my gun, and I would have lost a lot of money.
Would this cause a complete loss of recitals and the zeroing menu? I know for most of 2022 I just unplugged the usb with no issue. My issues just started within the last 3-4 weeks. I thought adding batteries to the equation would help save settings, but the scope just drains them first.
Actually, the Super Yoter is designed to use the external pack first and move to internal once the external battery source is depleted.
There is no reason you should have to unplug the USB to turn it off. As stated earlier, you are bypassing the save Menu procedure when you do this. This would be similar to turning your TV off by unplugging it every time vs powering it down. I would not recommend it.
Since pulling the power is not the standard procedure, I do not know if it is causing this or not. I offer these ideas trying to help you out as I spend a lot of time behind Bering thermals and help Night Goggle's customers. I can tell you, the scope will not save any changes made to the scope if not powered down by pressing the Power button, and when the option comes to Power down the scope, you press the Middle button to confirm. From my experiences, the reticle disappearing, etc is usually a sign the scope has undergone some type of event which has reset the scope. The only thing you can potentially do is try a different external battery system and/or cable. Anything else is probably something only Bering will be able to fix if that does not solve it.
Having internal batteries in the unit or not should have no impact if the unit is saving your settings or not. The battery I am talking about is internal just like a computer, TV, and virtually every piece of electronics has a battery internally designed to retain some type of settings for the device. It also keeps the date and time, etc.
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Just turned it on after shutting it down last night by using the menu. No retical and now it wont come back using the button presses.
Got the reticle back, had to turn the pic in pic off. Shooting 4 inches low at 100. Moved it up the 4 and now its 2 inches left. Moved it it back right and now im zeroed in. Going hunting for the next few nights, fingers crossed.
Shutting it down properly should have nothing to do with the reticle not coming back by pressing the buttons. Try it again, make sure you holding the outside buttons down firmly, and press the middle menu button 4 times while holding.
Either way, it sounds like you need to call Bering and get your unit to them. The only other thing I mentioned in the previous response is the fact it keeps reverting back could be due to your battery pack/cable You could run it on CR123s a few times and if it still doesn't work, has to be the scope. If it works, then your problem lies with your power source. All indications appear there is something wrong with the scope.
Either way, it sounds like you need to call Bering and get your unit to them. The only other thing I mentioned in the previous response is the fact it keeps reverting back could be due to your battery pack/cable You could run it on CR123s a few times and if it still doesn't work, has to be the scope. If it works, then your problem lies with your power source. All indications appear there is something wrong with the scope.
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