Gunsmithing Suppressor build - Need some input

ArcticFun

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Minuteman
Oct 29, 2009
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Wasilla, Alaska
I've been tossing around the idea of designing and building my own suppressor for some time now. I know about Form 1 and all the headaches that come with filling it out and getting it approved as well.

SuppressorDesignV10_zpse6624ca8.png


I'm going to set it up as a thread on. I'm not dead set on the length and diameter either after checking the dimensions on commercially available suppressors. Definitely considering going with a curved baffle design with ported spacer to try and break the gas up as much as possible. This will be going on my Adams Arms upper in 5.56 NATO, main goal is to make it hearing safe then toy around with different baffle designs to reduce the noise further.

Any and all input would help, it is my first foray into design much less implementing a suppressor (with the exception of an oil filter on a .22LR).
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

That is WAY bigger than needed , a can that size would work for a 300 win mag easly

1.5"OD .065" wall SS tube is plenty and 6"-7" long in all thats needed.

Make your blast chamber 1.5" long with a flat blast baffle , small cone for the bullet to pass through , drill 6-8 holes arpound the outer parimiter , set your fist cone 1/2" off the blast baffel then stack the rest of your cones .625" appart , have 6-7 in their and your good to go
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

Blast baffle like this
securedownload3.jpg


Followed by 7 cones like this , i used a smaller to as spacers for the cones shoulder to rest on
cone2.jpg


and you end up somthing like this which is one of the better 223 cans out their (late model AAC M4-2000)but with a blast baffle
M4-2000new.jpg
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

I did a little reworking of the design. Shortened it, made it a smaller overall diameter, added a baffle, cone to the blast baffle like suggested but retained the variable spacing. Any cons to the spacing I have now?

SuppressorDesignV10_zps77a8cb91.png
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GlockandRoll</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks JJones, I've got an SPR M/4, you dont happen to have a cut open pic of one of those do you? </div></div>

Not anymore , if i remember correctly its pretty close to the same as the M4 but a couple less cones and larger blast chamber area due to the long section needed for the mount
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticFun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did a little reworking of the design. Shortened it, made it a smaller overall diameter, added a baffle, cone to the blast baffle like suggested but retained the variable spacing. Any cons to the spacing I have now?
] </div></div>

Looks good , id still shorten a couple spacers that would allow maybe a couple more cones , remember you are esentialy trying to slow the flow and cool the gases.

A 60 degree cone works great for stripping the gas away from the bore axis , the shallower the cone the less effecient and more baffles are needed lik is the case for the surefire cans as seen here
sf2.jpg
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

I could add .24" to the overall length and change the spacing to .08" between each baffle to get 7. So the spacing between the blast baffle and the first cone would be .86" and drop by .08" till the final spacing at the end would be .30".

Now would the cones end up too close at that point to run the 60 degree slope and still have good effect?

Thanks again for all help.
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticFun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I could add .24" to the overall length and change the spacing to .08" between each baffle to get 7. So the spacing between the blast baffle and the first cone would be .86" and drop by .08" till the final spacing at the end would be .30".

Now would the cones end up too close at that point to run the 60 degree slope and still have good effect?

Thanks again for all help. </div></div>

I don't think it would have any negitive effect , if I'm not mistaken the cones are only .500" appart on the AAC can , they are .720" on the AAC Cyclone which is a 308 can
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GlockandRoll</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What silencer is that? </div></div>

I'm not sure which unit but it is a Surefire 223 can , for the money involved the desgine and quality are pretty pitiful , but it does work well
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

Thanks again. The goal is for the baffles to be removable. I will probably have both the 6 and 7 baffle design built and do some testing of my own once my Form 1 gets approved. Hopefully it won't take too long and I can post back here with results.
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticFun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks again. The goal is for the baffles to be removable. I will probably have both the 6 and 7 baffle design built and do some testing of my own once my Form 1 gets approved. Hopefully it won't take too long and I can post back here with results. </div></div>

You have to be careful with your desgine and build phase , you are not allowed to construct ANY parts of your suppressor untill you receive your stamped Form-1 back , also you are not allowed to have any extra parts for your suppressor as they will be deemed as another suppressor and require another stamped form.

Just wanted to put that out their to keep everybody legal and on the up and up
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

That's a big heads up. I'll try the 6 first and when funds become available I'll get the second Form 1 sent in and try a 7 baffle design. I know my machinist is more than qualified for the type of work and tolerances required to do this but I would rather err on the side of caution.
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

You should check out Silence Talk.com Lots of great designs and pics. I have built a couple. Hard to beat a good K baffel design. Fun project.
smile.gif


Regards, Paul
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bolt fluter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should check out Silence Talk.com Lots of great designs and pics. I have built a couple. Hard to beat a good K baffel design. Fun project.
smile.gif


Regards, Paul </div></div>

K baffles arn't as well suited for high pressure rounds like 556 and 308 but a couple company's use them , Quicksilver is about the best K baffle can I've heard , the ones with the best suppression like Thunderbeast , Shark , AAC use a cone style as it strips the gas off the bore line more effectively than a K's flat face

I lost a bunch of pics of my last 223 can but I had posted it on silencer talk , it was a fully welded can made from 17-4 with a brake style adapter and it is by far the quietest 223 suppressor I've heard , so building a great can is possible wih a little thought and borrowing of ideas
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JJones75</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bolt fluter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should check out Silence Talk.com Lots of great designs and pics. I have built a couple. Hard to beat a good K baffel design. Fun project.
smile.gif


Regards, Paul </div></div>

K baffles arn't as well suited for high pressure rounds like 556 and 308 but a couple company's use them , Quicksilver is about the best K baffle can I've heard , the ones with the best suppression like Thunderbeast , Shark , AAC use a cone style as it strips the gas off the bore line more effectively than a K's flat face </div></div>


In reality K baffles work best with high pressure gas. The whole purpose of the K baffle is to create turbulance that makes the gasses work against themselves. Stripping the gas off the boreline doesn't really do as much as you'd think. I've built quite a number of K baffle suppressors for high power rifle (.338 lapua, .50 BMG...) and they work very well. On the other hand simple baffles are easier to make especially for those who don't have a lot of machinery or experience. The difference in sound is frequently not detectable to the ear so do whatever is easiest and see how it does.

The removable baffle requirement is a waste of time unless you intend to swap out different baffles for testing. With rifle cans there isn't any need to take things apart for cleaning. With a .22LR can there is. If you can make the can lighter by welding thats the way to go. It will save on time as well since threading won't be necessary. The baffles will help support the tube under pressure and you don't have the issues of threads slipping when the can "inflates" if you use fine threads. You also don't weaken the can by cutting threads in it. With a 32 thread per inch thread you have a .040 or so depth of thread. Thats .020" per side so your .065" wall tubing now has an effective thickness of .045" after threading. Thats if you don't go deeper or cut a deeper thread relief. Why not use .058" thick tube, weld the baffles and endcaps and have a stronger lighter can. You don't need to clean the thing so why open it up. . . ?

Frank
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

I've got a question:

On your drawing it shows the end as being able to remove for cleaning. I'm not a suppressor expert by no means, but all the suppressor's I have are welded right there. How is yours able to be removed?
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

One of the reasons I posted this here was a little input on the overall design. One thing I found out is that once assembled I can't do any repairs or have any extra parts without another tax stamp. So for me to be able to test a second set of baffles I would have to complete a 2nd Form 1 just for that baffle set. Much simpler to build a 2nd suppressor altogether. I've changed my requirements a little bit. The baffles will most likely end up welded in and the end cap welded on as well.
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArcticFun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One of the reasons I posted this here was a little input on the overall design. One thing I found out is that once assembled I can't do any repairs or have any extra parts without another tax stamp. So for me to be able to test a second set of baffles I would have to complete a 2nd Form 1 just for that baffle set. Much simpler to build a 2nd suppressor altogether. I've changed my requirements a little bit. The baffles will most likely end up welded in and the end cap welded on as well. </div></div>

10-4. I wasn't questioning it by no means. I was hoping that this was possible, for exactly like you said. Cleaning, changing the baffles, etc.

Think about how easy it would be to slip out the old and in with the new through the end like that. Or just for cleaning purposes.

I'm just not sure if there would be any strength at that point if it wasn't welded. That technology may be out there already, but I haven't seen it nor have I searched in depth for it. I just took position of my 1st supp this summer, so this is all new to me.
 
Re: Suppressor build - Need some input

I am a machinist by no means but a way it could be done is have everything from the blast baffle forward welded into a sleeve that would slip inside the main tube of suppressor. The tolerances and machining would have to be spot on so there would be no wiggle room once it was seated in. Then have the end cap knurled and threaded to remove it (would take a hit on weight so that the tube would be thick enough after threading as pointed out earlier).

With all of that (in theory) you could unscrew the end cap, pull out one baffle system and put another in. Feasibly you could test any amount of baffle designs you wanted while using the same tube (60 degree cone, stepped baffles, k baffles, spacing etc). It would be the perfect set up for testing and prototyping different baffle designs. Unfortunately for each baffle you would want to make you have to add $200 to the cost of it and months of wait time to make it legal.

Once I get the experience I need on the CNC machines at the shop I will probably be sending in a Form 1 every paycheck just to make baffles with one dedicated tube. That way I would be able to test different designs and maybe modify existing designs to come up with something more efficient. Main point of this project though? Keep my mind occupied while at work.