Suppressor muzzle device. Torque?

[nikdanja]

New suppressor owner and my biggest worry is:
1. Baffle strike because the muzzle device will come loose due to improper torque setting. (Yes, I’m using shims!)

2. the muzzle device getting stuck inside the can while unscrewing due to improper torque.

Im currently selling my keymo devices for a flash hider so my OCD won’t keep kicking in due to a device that’s not perfectly straight.

my buddy says he just screwed his on really right and called it a day.

 

[Zak Smith]

You don't need to go crazy. Use red loctite #272. That ain't coming off.

 

[hafejd30]

I guess that depends what your use is

- I have SBR where the device is rocksett in now. Sees heavy firing with a Saker ASR 556. Even blue loctite (although it burnt off) held under a wrench and heavy firing

- I have devices that are blue loctite on bolt guns so I can remove them if needed. Tightened with a Magpul wrench as tight as I can get holding the gun and wrench against each other. I can remove these with not a ton of force to clean the crown etc. low round count when suppressed

- I also direct thread my TBAC. Check periodically if worried about loosening during a shooting session. I use a touch of grease on the threads

I’ve had my SBR carbon lock after some LE training where I shot about 100 quick rounds. Then set the gun in my truck and worried about it the next day. Took some force to remove the can but the brake held in place. That’s with Saker brake/shims/blue loctite and tightened with the Magpul wrench. The loctite burns off which is why rocksett is a better option for these applications. The loctite hardened back up after it cooled.

If you let us know your shooting intentions it may help. If your running a bolt only I just loctite (red or blue) then tightened with a wrench. Then hand tighten the can on. I remove the can after shooting or at least break it loose and reset it. Haven’t had an issue yet doing this method

 

[FuhQ]

New suppressor owner and my biggest worry is:
1. Baffle strike because the muzzle device will come loose due to improper torque setting. (Yes, I’m using shims!)

2. the muzzle device getting stuck inside the can while unscrewing due to improper torque.

Im currently selling my keymo devices for a flash hider so my OCD won’t keep kicking in due to a device that’s not perfectly straight.

my buddy says he just screwed his on really right and called it a day.

Buy some Rocksett and use it sparingly. A good dab on the threads before screwing on the muzzle brake should be more than enough.

After installing and torquing, let it set for at least 24 hours before shooting or moving it, and it will be set.

 

[nikdanja]

I guess that depends what your use is

- I have SBR where the device is rocksett in now. Sees heavy firing with a Saker ASR 556. Even blue loctite (although it burnt off) held under a wrench and heavy firing

- I have devices that are blue loctite on bolt guns so I can remove them if needed. Tightened with a Magpul wrench as tight as I can get holding the gun and wrench against each other. I can remove these with not a ton of force to clean the crown etc. low round count when suppressed

- I also direct thread my TBAC. Check periodically if worried about loosening during a shooting session. I use a touch of grease on the threads

I’ve had my SBR carbon lock after some LE training where I shot about 100 quick rounds. Then set the gun in my truck and worried about it the next day. Took some force to remove the can but the brake held in place. That’s with Saker brake/shims/blue loctite and tightened with the Magpul wrench. The loctite burns off which is why rocksett is a better option for these applications. The loctite hardened back up after it cooled.

If you let us know your shooting intentions it may help. If your running a bolt only I just loctite (red or blue) then tightened with a wrench. Then hand tighten the can on. I remove the can after shooting or at least break it loose and reset it. Haven’t had an issue yet doing this method

I have a black out and a 223 SBR. Mostly just for fun at the range and my 223 rifle for if the shit it’s the fan.

did you torque your saker mount on? If so, what was the setting?

 

[nikdanja]

Buy some Rocksett and use it sparingly. A good dab on the threads before screwing on the muzzle brake should be more than enough.

After installing and torquing, let it set for at least 24 hours before shooting or moving it, and it will be set.

My only hesitation wjth that is I won’t be able to change devices later down the road.

 

[db2000]

New suppressor owner and my biggest worry is:

2. the muzzle device getting stuck inside the can while unscrewing due to improper torque

Muzzle device won’t seize up if you use this every few times shooting.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L1LV9F6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[FuhQ]

My only hesitation wjth that is I won’t be able to change devices later down the road.

I remove rockett'd devices all the time. Just requires a good vise and some strength and the right tools. It's not permanent.

 

[db2000]

Blue Locktite works fine.

 

[nikdanja]

I remove rockett'd devices all the time. Just requires a good vise and some strength and the right tools. It's not permanent.

What was your torque setting?

 

[hafejd30]

I have a black out and a 223 SBR. Mostly just for fun at the range and my 223 rifle for if the shit it’s the fan.

did you torque your saker mount on? If so, what was the setting?

I did not use a torque setting. I just hand tightened it with a wrench well past what I know I can tighten my suppressor by hand.

You can remove rocksett by soaking the device in water. Heat won’t do it

If you plan to run it hard then rocksett it. A new barrel for a SBR cost less than a new suppressor if the brake or can loosens up

If you plan to just “try” your can out. Then loctite it and shoot a few rounds. Pay attention to the can if you shoot a lot. If you plan to swap muzzle devices down the road then just make it work until you get what you want and make that system more permanent

 

[FuhQ]

What was your torque setting?

Until it was clocked correctly. I shimmed it where it rested against the shims about 1/8 of a turn shy of being straight up and down, then removed the brake, placed a drop of Rocksett, reinstalled the brake, and then tightened it to alignment, let it sit overnight, and then went to the range a day or 2 later. 300+ rounds later, no issues.

 

[smokin.338]

Rocksett and torque to 30 ft/lb is what is recommended by almost all suppressor company's. To remove just heat up muzzle device for about 45 seconds then stick in water (let soak for about 15 mins). Repeat again and it will come right off. The old method was to let soak in water for about 10-12 hours...

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

My only hesitation wjth that is I won’t be able to change devices later down the road.

Fwiw- I just used some blue loctite on my yhm qd mount and have had no issue taking my can off and on without the mount coming loose. I just didn't want to rockset the thing on there so I figured I'd see how the blue worked and go to red if needed, haven't needed the red yet. It's a bolt gun but has seen fairly long firing sets and I still haven't had any issue so far.

 

[E. Bryant]

I generally follow the TBAC recommendation of timing the brake to ~1/8th turn shy of properly timed, and then applying whatever torque is required to achieve the final position. Can't say I've ever measured this value since I'm typically using an open-end 15/16" wrench instead of a crow's foot, but my carefully-calibrated arm says it's in the neighborhood of 50-75 ft-lb depending upon the shim stack (fewer shims or thinner crush washer = more umph to time the brake).

FWIW, I use shims on "precision" setups (Surefire's kits are nice, but I've used others without issues), and am fine with peel washers on semi-auto blasters. Red Loctite seems to work fine; I'm sure other threadlockers will also work.

 

[RayDBonz]

The manufacturer should specify the torque they recommend.

 

[ipsullivan]

The manufacturer should specify the torque they recommend.

This.

Use Rocksett. As stated previously, it dissolves after being soaked in hot water. None of my QD cans go on a muzzle device that isn’t installed with Rocksett or pinned/welded. Not worth the hassle.

Can you get away without any thread locking compound? Absolutely, just be aware of the risk and required care.

 

[sam4886]

Rockset comes off pretty good of you whack it a few times with a hammer as well. I wouldn't do it sideways, but a couple sharp taps on the muzzle end a brake will break the glue. It is ceramic and pretty brittle.

I also don't put them on to a specific torque, but I go pretty tight. Get the shims set then tighten the brake to being straight up. I've pulled them off with keymos a couple times so I like to make sure they're tight enough that won't be an issue.

If the can and brake do come off together, add a thread locker to the barrel, tighten it back on pretty good, let it set, then do a mag dump to heat everything back up and the can will pop right off.

Or do what you're doing, go with flash hiders, and tighten that shit down to the shoulder and rockset it on.

 

[shoobe01]

I generally follow the TBAC recommendation of timing the brake to ~1/8th turn shy of properly timed, and then applying whatever torque is required to achieve the final position...

I do something about like this. 1/8th seems a bit aggressive to me, but despite being a torque nut normally, not for this. Just have a machinist cut the shoulder properly, or shim.

No threadlocker. Never had one (of like... 5? 6?) move at all, and the reason for so many mounts is QD. Which often gets pretty locked in, and I need to use the suppressor wrench to pop the "QD" locking bit off the teeth so we're putting a lot of force on it. Never moved the mount a bit, and I can if needed (like for changing forearms, etc) remove the muzzle device with just a wrench and some muscles. No issues.

YES, I am paranoid still and put witness marks on to double check it all

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Yeah the best way to get something off that is rockset, is to freeze it and then shock it with a good hard knock with a dead blow type hammer or wood so you don't scratch your stuff up. It works like a champ

 

[Jcmar15]

Call the manufacturer and get there instruction for installation. Everyone seems to have different instruction but that’s why I do if I don’t know how they want I done. Also check it after use to make sure it hasn’t come lose.

 

[FuhQ]

Rockset comes off pretty good of you whack it a few times with a hammer as well. I wouldn't do it sideways, but a couple sharp taps on the muzzle end a brake will break the glue. It is ceramic and pretty brittle.

I also don't put them on to a specific torque, but I go pretty tight. Get the shims set then tighten the brake to being straight up. I've pulled them off with keymos a couple times so I like to make sure they're tight enough that won't be an issue.

If the can and brake do come off together, add a thread locker to the barrel, tighten it back on pretty good, let it set, then do a mag dump to heat everything back up and the can will pop right off.

Or do what you're doing, go with flash hiders, and tighten that shit down to the shoulder and rockset it on.

I've found the best way to break Rocksett loose without water or heat, is to prep your removal... Have the gun secured 100% in a vise, where it will NOT rotate, flex, or move. Then figure out exactly how you're going to apply the pressure. Get everything setup. Preload your body (muscles), and then give it a very quick instant "pop" to break it loose, and WITHOUT letting up on the wrench, give it immediate constant pressure until it starts to rotate and comes loose. Then it screws right off. Clean up all the Rocksett residue in the threads with a copper brush and hot water, and you're good to go.

I've been using Rocksett for over 10 years, and this is the best method I've found for breaking loose muzzle devices and bolts/screws that have been installed with Rocksett. Works the same for hardened Loctite.

 

[sboone]

OSS specifically specs out 30 ftlbs for their muzzle devices. I would say anything from 20-30 will be adequate to keep it secure. I use red loctite if I have to use any at all