Suppressors Suppressor tumbler cleaning
- Thread starter CarbonMTN
- Start date
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,525
- 23,063
I didn’t have any luck with tumbler or sonic cleaner. I had to put my baffles in a blast cabinet and get the lead off. Be careful if your baffles are aluminum cause some cleaners will eat them up. If I remember correctly the manufacturer of my suppressor said blast cabinet was the only effective way to clean a 22 can.
Silencer Cleaning
Read this first! The following content is for information only. Make sure you follow the service and maintenance suggestions by your silencer manufacturer before trying any of these techniques...
web.archive.org
once you get it clean you NEED to look at this, it absolutely works!!!
Good read. Seeing as my next can will be a 22 sometime this next year.
Readers digest.
Tumble in stainless pins immediately after shooting before the parts have time to dry. Takes about 10 hours, but if left to dry, 24 hours.
Heat up parts in oven at 250 and "bake" for 20 minutes and then soak in DOT 5 brake fluid, or the highest silicone based oil you can get your hands on.
Readers digest.
Tumble in stainless pins immediately after shooting before the parts have time to dry. Takes about 10 hours, but if left to dry, 24 hours.
Heat up parts in oven at 250 and "bake" for 20 minutes and then soak in DOT 5 brake fluid, or the highest silicone based oil you can get your hands on.
I put the stainless steel baffles for my 9mm and .22LR cans in the Frankford Arsenal tumbler.
My recipe is about 30 ML of citric acid and a splash of Dawn dish-washing soap along with the steel pins that came with the tumbler. The measuring cup for 30 ML is the cup that you get with a bottle of NyQuil.
I set the timer for 3 hours and they come out looking like new. Sometimes, I might have to use a fresh solution for a 2nd tumble but that beats me scrubbing everything with a toothbrush.
I rinse the baffles, dry with a towel then put them in the case dryer before they go back in the can.
I clean the end caps with gun solvent and a toothbrush. Blue Wonder is great for cleaning end caps.
My recipe is about 30 ML of citric acid and a splash of Dawn dish-washing soap along with the steel pins that came with the tumbler. The measuring cup for 30 ML is the cup that you get with a bottle of NyQuil.
I set the timer for 3 hours and they come out looking like new. Sometimes, I might have to use a fresh solution for a 2nd tumble but that beats me scrubbing everything with a toothbrush.
I rinse the baffles, dry with a towel then put them in the case dryer before they go back in the can.
I clean the end caps with gun solvent and a toothbrush. Blue Wonder is great for cleaning end caps.
FYI if you are going to tumble the cups or internals of your suppressors in stainless pins, make sure it's SS or TI, don't do this with aluminum parts. Or cerakoted/painted parts.
I just tumbled the internals of my 22 Mask and they came out looking like new. I'm going to heat them tomorrow and drop in silicone and see if that helps with the maintenance.
I just tumbled the internals of my 22 Mask and they came out looking like new. I'm going to heat them tomorrow and drop in silicone and see if that helps with the maintenance.
I put the core of my silencerco sparrow (SS) in my stainless tumbler with a little dish soap after soaking it for a few hours in CLR. It came out looking brand new. Much easier than scrapping by hand.
Heads up about aerosolized silicone…probably not good for you…https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5471635&postcount=9
Regarding aerosolized silicone, I tried the brake fluid on AL 9mm baffles. Don't do it! Might do some good on rimfire baffles, but 9 has too much heat/pressure. Clouds of thick noxious smoke. Don't do it! It completely made me skip the idea on my rimfire cans.
I cleaned my titanium 22 baffles in CLR, I couldnt believe at how well that worked. I used to sit and scrub and scrub with a brush and hoppes...
30-60 min soaking in CLR and wiped off, they look new.
30-60 min soaking in CLR and wiped off, they look new.
My baffles were covered... in carbon, lead? Idk but they were gunked up pretty good and as soon as they hit the CLR, you could see it disolving off. Not sure if it gets lead off or not. but mine came out and wiped off clean.
The lead and carbon are both deposited as aerosols. Weakening the carbon seems to weaken the lead and it wipes off.
300-400 rounds of CCI SV followed by an overnight soak in Boretech C4 and wiping them off with a paper towel. Not absolutely spotless, but pretty close.
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I have a suppressor with an aluminium core and have tumbled it with SS pins a few times now, the anodizing starts to wear a little but otherwise it doesn't get too beat up.
I've also tried soaking in a vairety of solutions and have found kerosene to do a rather good job of breaking down the carbon, needs a little scrubing to remove the lead deposits still but kerosene is dirt cheap compared to Boretech C4.
I've also tried soaking in a vairety of solutions and have found kerosene to do a rather good job of breaking down the carbon, needs a little scrubing to remove the lead deposits still but kerosene is dirt cheap compared to Boretech C4.
Plug the end and fill the can. Not too bad on a rimfire can.
No, I don’t save it. The bubbling suggests there is a chemical reaction going on, and subsequent uses of the recycled cleaner would be less effective.
A foam earplug will slowly leak, so use a secondary containment vessel.
I just bought the Franklin bundle: tumbler and 5lbs of pins bundle.
I think they sell the pins by themselves too.
STAINLESS STEEL TUMBLING MEDIA
www.frankfordarsenal.com
They sell 2lbs of them too. You want SS pins that can be picked up by a magnet for eas(ier) cleanup; they sell a pickup tool too. I should buy one. Those little pins are a bitch to sweep up.
