Suppressor

SteveC

Private
Minuteman
Jan 6, 2023
51
55
Oklahoma
I put my 7.62 suppressor on the 20” 22-250 upper and to my surprise it opened up the group’s. It doesn’t do that on my 18” 308 upper or my 556 ar15. I also use it on a 17hmr and it’s really tight groups. I just took it back off. I don’t like the added length anyway
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Are you asking a question? If so, are you shooting factory ammo or hand loads?
Not really a question as much as an observation. I am not experienced with suppressors since I only have one. But, if I had a question it would be that I wonder if getting a shim kit to experiment with different clocking the suppressor would do anything?
I only use factory loads, I don’t reload anything so experimenting with different ammo is out. And extreme accuracy is really not what it is for, but some occasional coyote hunting etc. I don’t have a light trigger in it either.
I didn’t want to burn a bunch of ammo so I pulled the suppressor back off.
None of my bolt guns have threaded barrel to use a suppressor either.
 
.22 out of a .30 cal can doesn't usually have any issues with baffle/cap strikes, but just in case, is it a direct thread and how did you mount it? Did you use a crush washer and did you check bore alignment?
 
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The accuracy issue can likely be switched by switching ammo (or hand loading obviously). The weight on the end simply changed the barrel harmonics for the worse with this ammo. Timing it differently likely won’t make much if any difference, depending on what can you have.
 
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It’s a rugged razor 7.62 with an adaptor that goes on the barrel first. No crush washer. And checked alignment best I could. When I look through the suppressor all the baffles have a small notch in a row. Not a baffle strike but made that way. That’s what made me wonder about timing.
.22 out of a .30 cal can doesn't usually have any issues with baffle/cap strikes, but just in case, is it a direct thread and how did you mount it? Did you use a crush washer and did you check bore alignment?

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The accuracy issue can likely be switched by switching ammo (or hand loading obviously). The weight on the end simply changed the barrel harmonics for the worse with this ammo. Timing it differently likely won’t make much if any difference, depending on what can you have.
The notches gave me the timing idea. See pic other reply. I don’t have a huge choice of ammo either, so not much chance of improvement. My choices. lol
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With the taper mount I wouldn’t worry about trying to change the baffle alignment. I don’t think it would show any appreciable improvement. As for the ammo, I would expect the vmax to group better between the two but even that isn’t necessarily precision ammo. Unfortunately, with only factory ammo you aren’t going to have many options in .22-250.
 
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