Suppressors Swaged .357 Bullets in 9mm w/Suppressor --Anyone Doing It?

Strykervet

ain'T goT no how whaTchamacalliT
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  • Jun 5, 2011
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    So I know you can swage .357 bullets and use 'em in a 9mm but what I'm not so sure about is whether it's safe enough to use swaged bullets in a 9mm with a can. Anybody doing this? What bullets/process?

    Or am I overthinking this or being too cheap and should just get the xtreme plated 165gr. 9mm? 500 for $47?
     
    I would not shoot straight lead Bullets but I do shoot a LOT of coated Bullets from Bayou through my suppressor.

    I shoot the 147’s all the time die to shooting CZ’s and I already have to load them short.

    my suppressor is an octane 45 that I can take a part though. It mainly stays on a SBR scorpion.
     
    I don't shoot too many lead bullets. My Dad casts, swages, gas checks, pistol/rifle all that stuff, I'll be honest..........it looks like a huge PIA. He did get some (I think) polymer coated bullets from Missouri Bullet Co. this week that looks interesting.
     
    All my manuals show .356" lead bullet diameter for 9mm Parabellum/Luger; .355" for jacketed. I wouldn't be using .357" bullets...

    Polymer-coated bullets are way cleaner than pure lead... I like Blue Bullets but there are plenty of others.
     
    All my manuals show .356" lead bullet diameter for 9mm Parabellum/Luger; .355" for jacketed. I wouldn't be using .357" bullets...

    Polymer-coated bullets are way cleaner than pure lead... I like Blue Bullets but there are plenty of others.

    Never tried or even heard of polymer coated. I'd be concerned about that shit getting in my barrel but I'll check 'em out.

    Okay, let me elaborate for non-reloaders. Swaging is running the bullets through a die that changes the diameter. Go in .357 or whatever, come out .355. You can swage jacketed or lead bullets.

    My concern is that I'm not sure about how the pressures of swaging are distributed and while it works fine to bring pulled bullets and form hard to find bullets to the correct size, my concern is that the bullet could wobble on exit and damage a suppressor. I know no mfg. would sign off on this, so I'm just trying to find out the collective knowledge. I guess like me most of you are trying not to do stuff like this with your can.

    I don't use lead bullets in a can except for .22 cans. Plated bullets I tread like FMJ's since they've always pretty much worked like 'em. I have one takedown 9mm can but it doesn't really get dirty. But it'd be the Omega 9k I use these in.

    If the bullet isn't perfectly distributed with respect to weight and twist it can come out of the barrel and wobble until it either straightens out due to spin or it gets worse and goes end over end, keyholing. If you swage and load bullets for a rifle that doesn't have a can and it's not keyholing, you still have no idea whether or not it's stable on exit. Fact: many bullets exit and wobble a short bit before stabilization --I've got a few high end cans that have the blast baffles oblong for just that reason and KAC does it too IIRC.

    I didn't know about these 165s until I wrote this though and they're cheap as shit, I can crank out 1000 for less than $100. Probably gonna be the way to go provided the plating is even. That's the problem with plated bullets, sometimes the plating is uneven or barely there in spots. I'll have to get some to try out.

    I don't shoot too many lead bullets. My Dad casts, swages, gas checks, pistol/rifle all that stuff, I'll be honest..........it looks like a huge PIA. He did get some (I think) polymer coated bullets from Missouri Bullet Co. this week that looks interesting.

    I don't either, just the plated ones for bulk blasting 9mm rounds, .40 and .357 practice loads and .50BMG FMJ's (FWIW Rainier plates the 124 FMG RN and the .334 .50's very thick to the point it literally builds up a jacket --and that 9mm bullet is actually very accurate, I placed high in a competition using 'em). I got into swaging bullets on the small single stage for the BMG, pulled bullets are much cheaper. But yeah, sometimes loading can be a real PIA. Try loading .50 BMG --in bulk and belting for an M2HB. That's hard work. But it's a helluva lot cheaper than $1000 per 200rd. case 1in 5 API/T!
     
    I think Dad just enjoys messing with the stuff, and he does shoot lots of .38 spl, .44 spl, stuff like that. From what he tells me these new polymer coated bullts don't lead, and can be driven about like a jacketed bullet. He also, said they tend to be a lot harder than your typical cast bullet. I can't blame a guy for trying to save money where he can!
     
    What appeals to me about this is being able to run 158gr 9mm subs. It's not much over the more commonly available 147, but if I can put a little more oomph behind my 9mm sub loads, I figure why not?
     
    Never tried or even heard of polymer coated. I'd be concerned about that shit getting in my barrel but I'll check 'em out.
    Trust me, the polymer residue comes out a whole lot easier than lead/lube goop, and you can drive them faster without leading issues. Little or no smoke like you get with lead/lubed bullets. I use them for bulk/up close - the great majority of USPSA/IDPA type pursuits.

    For Blue Bullets, large-lot cost is about 7 cents apiece for the 125-grain round-nose bullets I prefer - I've tried 147s, etc. and various profiles, and the plain 125s satisfy me as cost-effective for my use cases. They also typically run a Black Friday special. Customer service is great. They used to offer small introductory "trial packs" of bullets but I don't see that offered on their site at this point - wouldn't hurt to ask about it

    In terms of accuracy, they're similar to the Speer 125gr LRNs I used a zillion years ago - not very good beyond 15 yards or so. Here's an example. One of the matches I enjoy will occasionally put in a "bonus" target - typically, a 1/2-size steel IDPA at 100 yards or so. So I did a little test. Using my CZ Tactical Sport Orange on a rest, I fired 15 rounds each of my 125gr BB load and 15 rounds of my 124gr JHP load at the 100-yard 1/2-IDPA. With the BBs, I hit the steel three or four times. With the JHPs, I missed once.

    Give the polymers a try.