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Rifle Scopes Switching optic between multiple rifles?
- Thread starter Cmh259
- Start date
personally, i would recommend a bobro engineering mount.
they have a patented design that requires no adjustments (so it won't be loose on one rifle and tight on another).
here is a review of several models, the bobro being the best at "return to zero" but all of them are pretty decent.
they are not cheap, but i believe they might offer discounts to LE/MIL.
you can get the lever(s) on either side (if you have a rifle with a side charging handle).
I would probably suggest a dual lever model for an AR-10, but a single lever might be fine for a small caliber rifle.
Scope Mounts/Rings
www.bobroengineering.com
please note that others may recommend other options as well, and many think a QD is not really needed when swapping between rifles.
I don't share optics, but I've swapped optics pretty regular in the past between bolt rifles. I typically use Seekins rings, and that works fine. I'll say that the rifles I'm jumping between are custom actions made by the same manufacturer, so that probably makes it a little easier. Depending on your rifles' variances and what you're trying to accomplish, the reality is that you may need to sight-in every time you swap the optic.
I second the spuhr. Luckily they make a qd for 35mm for OP's Mark 5. I couldn't find this model on mile high however.
The qd feature is not a necessity on the spuhr, but a nice to have. It's very fast and easy to unscrew and torque the 4 mounting screws on a non-qd version of the spuhr mount.
I did it for awhile, got to be a pain in the ass, eventually moved away from it. Get something like a bobro or AD Recon, something that locks up tight and repeatable, then have fun keeping track of 2 zeroes and always confirm zero after moving/removing an optic.
In the end, you'll spend more on range fees and ammo to re-zero than a whole new optic would cost.
In the end, you'll spend more on range fees and ammo to re-zero than a whole new optic would cost.
I use an American Defense one piece quick release mount and transfer the scope/mount as a unit on 2 different rifles...one is a 6.5x47L and the other rifle is a 6.5 Cr so i do have to verify /re-zero each time but truthfully it's not been a big deal at least on my non professional, casual fun use. The only bummer is the zero stop.....to minimize the problem i keep the zero stop set a bit liberal so i don't have to undo and redo the 2 sets of locking screws that my scope uses.
This system works for me at least at my stage, I'm not complaining or wanting to sound too tight but i do feel a strong need to be fiscally responsible....i'm not a world class competitor, i just enjoy the sport so it works for me..........(then again, i use a beam balance scale for my reloading).
I'll be looking for a new scope next Black Friday and if i find something that seems like a great deal i'll purchase a second scope....if not i'll continue to stick with this system.
This system works for me at least at my stage, I'm not complaining or wanting to sound too tight but i do feel a strong need to be fiscally responsible....i'm not a world class competitor, i just enjoy the sport so it works for me..........(then again, i use a beam balance scale for my reloading).
I'll be looking for a new scope next Black Friday and if i find something that seems like a great deal i'll purchase a second scope....if not i'll continue to stick with this system.
You dont have to mortgage the farm for a good mount.
I like the Burris PEPR mount as it represents good value and does not dig into your pic rail, but there are lots of perfectly good mounts out there.
Don't believe the hype... I wouldn't put much energy into repeating the zero when taking it off and putting it back on. Reality is not like the classic sniper guy in the movie who assembles a rifle out of a brief case and shoots a guy from a mile away in a moving car.
Figure on confirming your zero between rifles regardless of what you spend, but keep track of the difference to get close.
I almost want to suggest as a possible option is one of the bore sighting tools from Leupold or Bushnell, where you can document where the sight is according the the graph on the bore sighter. I actually have both brands but never ever use them as I just find it too frustrating.
What you can do to reliably confirm your zero is use a secondary sight of some sort, and that could be a compact laser or a red dot, but it needs to be mounted on the rifle separately from the scope mount. That way you have a consistent point of aim on each rifle you can reference whenever you change. Even a low cost option will get the job done for you, so you don't need to go spend top dollar on a premium brand red dot or laser. Its way cheaper than another good scope, and it can help save your bacon if you ever get lost in the changes.
Accuracy will depend on the shooter not having astigmatism so he can see the red dot sharply. I see about 8 dots, so This wont work quite so well for me personally, but lots of young guys wont have that astigmatism problem... Or older guys who've had cataract surgery. I cant believe I'm looking forward to THAT!
Here's a cheap example of a sight you can mount separately.
I like the Burris PEPR mount as it represents good value and does not dig into your pic rail, but there are lots of perfectly good mounts out there.
Don't believe the hype... I wouldn't put much energy into repeating the zero when taking it off and putting it back on. Reality is not like the classic sniper guy in the movie who assembles a rifle out of a brief case and shoots a guy from a mile away in a moving car.
Figure on confirming your zero between rifles regardless of what you spend, but keep track of the difference to get close.
I almost want to suggest as a possible option is one of the bore sighting tools from Leupold or Bushnell, where you can document where the sight is according the the graph on the bore sighter. I actually have both brands but never ever use them as I just find it too frustrating.
What you can do to reliably confirm your zero is use a secondary sight of some sort, and that could be a compact laser or a red dot, but it needs to be mounted on the rifle separately from the scope mount. That way you have a consistent point of aim on each rifle you can reference whenever you change. Even a low cost option will get the job done for you, so you don't need to go spend top dollar on a premium brand red dot or laser. Its way cheaper than another good scope, and it can help save your bacon if you ever get lost in the changes.
Accuracy will depend on the shooter not having astigmatism so he can see the red dot sharply. I see about 8 dots, so This wont work quite so well for me personally, but lots of young guys wont have that astigmatism problem... Or older guys who've had cataract surgery. I cant believe I'm looking forward to THAT!
Here's a cheap example of a sight you can mount separately.
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interesting, i have an offset/angled mount on my AR and enjoy it....never considered using one on a bolt action rifle.
There's another bonus if you're a PRS shooter where you can use the red dot to get close quickly, then switch to the scope for precise shooting.
I always see guys running out the clock by zooming in and out to find the target, but a red dot is faster.
Search MailCall Mondays on youtube. He did an episode for sharing an Optic between rifles with some interesting ideas on how to set the zero stop for the rifle whose POI is lowest.
for what its worth, i'm no operator or first shot counts shooter, i swap an optic between FTR rifles and a different optic between TAC rifles and i just record the number of MOA or MILS up from the bottom and out from all the way left it works for me for years in Leupold QRW rings. If i shoot a FTR match or small PRS match I zero and record the week before and leave the optic on that particular rifle and I'm good to go...
appreciate the info
found a MailCall Mondays link....it discusses some of these aspects but didn't address the zero stop issue.......perhaps i missed it.
found a MailCall Mondays link....it discusses some of these aspects but didn't address the zero stop issue.......perhaps i missed it.
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Keep in mind, many times QD mounts are best used on one rifle. It sounds counterintuitive, but many times you’ll find the tension used on one rail is different than another. You’ll spend as much or more time messing with it than just unbolting and bolting rings or mounts.
Typically QD mounts are best on a single platform and to be used when you need to break down for travel, cleaning, or emergency/failure.
Any quality bolt on rings or mount will serve you well. I prefer ARC rings as they use the same hex key and torque limiter for the rail clams as well as the rings. And it’s only 4 bolts total.
Typically QD mounts are best on a single platform and to be used when you need to break down for travel, cleaning, or emergency/failure.
Any quality bolt on rings or mount will serve you well. I prefer ARC rings as they use the same hex key and torque limiter for the rail clams as well as the rings. And it’s only 4 bolts total.
This was exactly my experience. Dumped the QD and went with standard Spuhr cantilever... allows mounting on any of my bolt or AR platforms with proper eye relief. Fix it Sticks torque limiter ensures consistency. Much happier with this setup.
I bounce optics among my 22 trainers and to my centerfire rifles frequently. There's predictable adjustments between all of them with the Seekins/Vortex pmr rings used. Just keep a consistent torque value and write down the adjustment shifts in a log book.
This is a good and valid point to keep in mind when selecting your scope mount and applies in particular to certain mounts like the Larue mentioned in the video above that requires a tool to adjust the clamping force.
Again one of the reasons I prefer the Burris PEPR mount over the Larue... The PEPR requires no tools to adjust the tension.
So swapping it between rifles is so easy that I don't see that as a valid deterrent.
If you ever had a scope puke in a match you will appreciate the ability to quickly swap another scope with no tools. Some guys bring a spare rifle to a match, some guys bring a spare scope that they conveniently removed from a different rifle when packing for the match.
Buy a good set of rings and you can swap scopes easily. Mounts and QDs are not needed and I wouldn't put a QD on a precision rifle anyways. I want my optic properly torqued down. As mentioned by a poster above a set of Seekins rings will do everything you need. I move scopes around with Seekins and never an issue. Simple and relatively inexpensive and they hold.
I know the elitists and gun snobs wont like this but...
When it comes to scope mounts, there is a common belief that you need "good ones"... meaning expensive is better. Expensive is nice, but not needed when it comes to scope mounts.
I would argue that the scope mount is one of the best places to save money on your rig and give up nothing in reasonable terms of reliability or performance. Not to suggest that junk is good... no... that's not what I'm saying at all. I'm saying not to get too hung up on some MIL spec bla bla when something much less expensive will do the job just fine.
Good barrel is key... good scope is key... decent trigger is good but scope mounts are structural and nobody needs to pay SPUR $400 for a reliable scope mount when there are plenty of good enough ones on Amazon for $40.
Hey, if you have money to burn, go for it... But QD or not, I have never had a problem with what many guys here would probably consider NFG.
Why are you quoting me and saying "elitist and gun snob"? I mentioned a set of rings that are about $110. Not exactly elitist.
Until you realize your rings or mount are slightly off just enough by having to consistently dial left or right to offset the variance... Believe me, I've saved money on these mounts and rings too, but if you don't want to take a chance on that kind of machining, spend the extra cash on something like the Seekins or Vortex that is "matched" set. It all depends on your application.
I think most people here that's been down a road with gear that's failed or learned lessons offer advice of "spend the money" to save someone the heartache and frustration. Not to be a snob.
I think most people here that's been down a road with gear that's failed or learned lessons offer advice of "spend the money" to save someone the heartache and frustration. Not to be a snob.
You might be further ahead selling what you have and getting a good scope and a switch barrel rifle.
Sorry, I didn't mean to put words in your mouth. I didn't mean to infer that I was referring to you by that comment. I just know those guys are out there that criticize anything not made in America that usually costs more than many can afford.
i have been called a poor more than once, and i am cheap, but i try not to skimp on things involved in actually sending a round.
other things like spotting scopes or rangefinders i feel like i can be more budget minded without sabotaging the potential of the platform i am shooting.
particularly since it is a .308 gas gun that comes with enough other things to think about....
can you get away with cheap chinese rings? sure.
will your gun be just as accurate and your scope just as secure? maybe.
how about if you drop it, or bang it around in the field or in combat? probably not.
again, i am cheap, but i am not skimping on the tires on the family car either.
not saying you, but many people with limited budgets waste lots of money on other things.
smoking or dipping
fast food
starbucks or other...
expensive vacations
etc.
hell, i can skip a day at the range and save $200 bucks for something i want to buy.
We can both probably "afford" any gun or accessory we "want", but have a hard time justifying the expense. I can most justify the cost of what I use most, but must make compromises when outfitting the rifles I use less frequently.
There has been times where guys in forums have been critical of me putting a Chinese knock off of a Atlas bipod on my RPR, even though I have a real Atlas on my Defiance. I just cannot justify putting an Atlas (or similarly priced alternative) on every gun I own, especially when I'm not likely to keep it for long.
In many cases I have found that buy once cry once is the best policy... in particular when it comes to scopes. There's just no inexpensive way to get the glass quality we need to be competitive and I've kicked myself many times for trying to get by with some mid priced scope when I should have bought a better one.
In this thread I was just suggesting an alternative to the minimum point of entry being for every guy to spend top dollar on a premium scope mount when in practical terms, a more affordable mount will work just as well under all but the most absurd conditions.
I agree that we can hang back on certain expenses to get what we want for one rifle, but that sure adds up when you have 5 or 6 rifles to dress up.
There has been times where guys in forums have been critical of me putting a Chinese knock off of a Atlas bipod on my RPR, even though I have a real Atlas on my Defiance. I just cannot justify putting an Atlas (or similarly priced alternative) on every gun I own, especially when I'm not likely to keep it for long.
In many cases I have found that buy once cry once is the best policy... in particular when it comes to scopes. There's just no inexpensive way to get the glass quality we need to be competitive and I've kicked myself many times for trying to get by with some mid priced scope when I should have bought a better one.
In this thread I was just suggesting an alternative to the minimum point of entry being for every guy to spend top dollar on a premium scope mount when in practical terms, a more affordable mount will work just as well under all but the most absurd conditions.
I agree that we can hang back on certain expenses to get what we want for one rifle, but that sure adds up when you have 5 or 6 rifles to dress up.
As others have said, just make note of the difference in Data between them, dial, reset your caps and confirm zero.
