Long story short. Trying to help a buddy. Gonna buy a Tikka CTR/UPR/Varmint just for the action and stock that he likes. Can get a decent deal on either a 22-250 or 308. If it’s a longer barrel (24”), is the 308 or 22-250 barrel likely to sell quicker? Or about the same?
Take off barrel caliber/value
- Thread starter patriot07
- Start date
Neither one. Take off barrels appeal to very few, but make great tomato stakes. If you have to there might actually be someone for a 308.
I tend to agree with oldrifleman, with a caveat. The CTR comes with a threaded barrel, so someone who has a stock tikka might be interested in a cheap threaded option for them. Just a thought.
A 20” 308 CTR is a pretty handy barrel.
A 20” 1/8 twist 22-250 is a 22 Creedmoor waiting to happen.
I’ve seen them go from $100-$225 on here. Look on e-bay. There are a lot, and all are overpriced in my opinion.
I’m not a fan of 24” barrels. Once you add a can, they are unwieldy for hunting except from a hide or a stand. At least in my experience.
A 20” 1/8 twist 22-250 is a 22 Creedmoor waiting to happen.
I’ve seen them go from $100-$225 on here. Look on e-bay. There are a lot, and all are overpriced in my opinion.
I’m not a fan of 24” barrels. Once you add a can, they are unwieldy for hunting except from a hide or a stand. At least in my experience.
Not where I live. I’ve done 11? Haven’t cut any shoulders. As stated elsewhere, the key is a braker bar and a hard tap with a hammer in the tightening direction, then in the loosening direction. Then spin it off.
At least that’s what I do.
Then antisieze on the threads, 50 ft-lbs back on and check headspace. So far, I’m 100% with headspace (go gauge fits, no-go doesn’t).
See:
www.snipershide.com
At least that’s what I do.
Then antisieze on the threads, 50 ft-lbs back on and check headspace. So far, I’m 100% with headspace (go gauge fits, no-go doesn’t).
See:
Tikka T3 barrel removal.
Some take aways after struggling with a tikka barrel. I have tried several different methods over a period of days, and I understand what works now. There really is a process and if you don't follow it there will be a struggle, or worse, a broken action and or marred finish. Follow this and you...
www.snipershide.com
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Those are all way different stocks...so this thread instantly makes no sense....UPR is significantly harder and more expensive to locate. Varmit doesn't have ctr bottom metal or mags and is unthreaded, doesn't have cheeck riser, etc etc.
They do seem to go really high on ebay...
Unfortunately the 22-250 I'm looking at is 1:14 twist and I think that would limit value quite a bit.
Of course the 308 is about 70 dollars more expensive so I'm not sure if the 308 would bring that much more of a premium or not. It's a 24" so someone may need to have it cut down after buying anyway...
