Talk me out of getting a Forster Co-Ax, please!

D

dogmilk

Private
Minuteman
Jun 13, 2018
20
6
#1
Hello,

I am fairly new to long range shooting (just under 2.5 years) and getting into hand loading now.

I have a group of friends who I shoot with, all have different skill levels, budgets, all have very different "philosophies" when it comes to buying equipment.

One friend has all of the finest equipment. Virtually no expense spared. He has been involved in shooting, reloading, long range longer than all of us, and is now getting into ELR. He's made all of the mistakes, fallen into the pits that a new shooter would, so he's been an invaluable resource not only for information, advice, but I also get to buy his old unwanted gear at a considerable discount, which is great! Another friend is the complete opposite. Extremely thrifty. To the point where he compromises his safety, wastes time, ammunition, consumables. Relies on others to borrow equipment (I don't think he's equipped to clean brass...) His standards for performance are not FPS, merely, "does the ammo go bang yes or no..."

I don't want to be like that second friend. I want to be somewhere in the middle. Blue light special friend has a Hornady LnL Classic kit... I don't want that. "No expense spared" friend has a Forster Co-Ax. It's glorious. The reviews I've watched make me want it, and want nothing else.

Unfortunately the Co-Ax on national backorder. I almost closed on one that is on eBay, but was outbid. OpticsPlanet is "blowing them out," plus there's a 10% off coupon code, but they aren't expecting a restock until September. I was number 30 in line, I canceled my order this morning. Only one I have found available to ship now, is a B5 (newest generation) press that's been marked up by the vendor to $630...

What then, is the happy medium? I can put my order back in at OpticsPlanet, "eventually" get my CoAx for a great deal, but I really don't want to wait that long.

I see the RCBS RockChucker Supreme in stock, free same day on Amazon for 137! It lacks self-centering case jaws, and the primer capturing system seems less well contained, priming system *is nonadjustable... but are those differences really worth it? I am ONLY loading 6.5 Creed for the forseeable future, so I just need to get the case alignment right, and then lock it down... How hard can it be?

Also seeking recommendations for other single stage presses. Thanks in advance!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: dghboy315
#2
Redding T7 is a bad ass single stage press. If you were going to spend $630 I would go progressive. I like the Dillon 550 or 650. I hear some really like the Hornady. I sold mine off I never cared to much for it. But everyone has what they like.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mdmp5 and Huskydriver
#4
I'm kind of in the same boat as you. for some unknown reason while researching getting ready for reloading i keep gravitating to the forster. i should put myself on a wait list now that way it'll be available by the time I'm ready to purchase it (in the process of moving). i guess patience is the name of the game at this point.
 
#5
hookedonbrass said:
I'm kind of in the same boat as you. for some unknown reason while researching getting ready for reloading i keep gravitating to the forster. i should put myself on a wait list now that way it'll be available by the time I'm ready to purchase it (in the process of moving). i guess patience is the name of the game at this point.
Click to expand...

293 is unbeatable, I just can't wait that long. I have every other piece of the puzzle for reloading, JUST missing the press. It's killing me!
 
  • Like
Reactions: eagleskier
#8
dogmilk said:
Hello,

I am fairly new to long range shooting (just under 2.5 years) and getting into hand loading now.

I have a group of friends who I shoot with, all have different skill levels, budgets, all have very different "philosophies" when it comes to buying equipment.

One friend has all of the finest equipment. Virtually no expense spared. He has been involved in shooting, reloading, long range longer than all of us, and is now getting into ELR. He's been an invaluable resource not only for information, advice, but I also get to buy his old unwanted gear at a considerable discount, which is great! Another friend is the complete opposite. Extremely thrifty. To the point where he compromises his safety, wastes time, ammunition, consumables. Relies on others to borrow equipment (I don't think he's equipped to clean brass...) His standards for performance are not FPS, merely, "does the ammo go bang yes or no..."

I don't want to be like that second friend. I want to be somewhere in the middle. Blue light special friend has a Hornady LnL Classic kit... I don't want that. "No expense spared" friend has a Forster Co-Ax. It's glorious. The reviews I've watched make me want it, and want nothing else.

Unfortunately the Co-Ax on national backorder. I almost closed on one that is on eBay, but was outbid. OpticsPlanet is "blowing them out," plus there's a 10% off coupon code, but they aren't expecting a restock until September. I was number 30 in line, I canceled my order this morning. Only one I have found available to ship now, is a B5 (newest generation) press that's been marked up by the vendor to $630...

What then, is the happy medium? I can put my order back in at OpticsPlanet, "eventually" get my CoAx for a great deal, but I really don't want to wait that long.

I see the RCBS RockChucker Supreme in stock, free same day on Amazon for 137! It lacks self-centering case jaws, and the primer capturing system seems less well contained, priming system *is nonadjustable... but are those differences really worth it? I am ONLY loading 6.5 Creed for the forseeable future, so I just need to get the case alignment right, and then lock it down... How hard can it be?

Also seeking recommendations for other single stage presses. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

The only single stage press I can think of that I'd rather have more than the Forster is the Prazi press, it's in a league of it's own, I know because I have one, and at almost 3 times more expensive it should be superior.

I'd buy a used crappy Lee press to use for now, and when the Forster comes in use the Lee press for punching primers out before cleaning. Mine was given to me and that's exactly what I use it for.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Subwrx300 and MarinePMI
#9
The Redding T7 is sweet.
I added one th my lineup of Dillon Progressives. Redding is solid and they are in stock. You can add the Co-ax later if you still want it.
 
#14
I like my Co-Ax when it’s not needing parts because their customer service is really crappy. Unusual in this industry. Mine was an early version which crushed the used primer drop tube. Send the crushed tube to them at your expense and they might send you a new one which will eventually get crushed again. Since redesigned but Forster takes no responsibility for their original bad design.

They heat treat their seating die stems. Not always successfully. Some mushroom. Some split. Always the user’s fault. Check you seating die stems and see for yourself.

Ship the bad part at your expense and they will think about sending you a replacement.

Buyer beware.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MichiganMitten
#18
alright, the deed is done

thanks everyone for your input

It looks like I got the last one!

boss.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: yakstone and Fig
#20
Hawk in WY said:
I like my Co-Ax when it’s not needing parts because their customer service is really crappy. Unusual in this industry. Mine was an early version which crushed the used primer drop tube. Send the crushed tube to them at your expense and they might send you a new one which will eventually get crushed again. Since redesigned but Forster takes no responsibility for their original bad design.

They heat treat their seating die stems. Not always successfully. Some mushroom. Some split. Always the user’s fault. Check you seating die stems and see for yourself.

Ship the bad part at your expense and they will think about sending you a replacement.

Buyer beware.
Click to expand...

Never had a problem with them the few times I had to call them.

As to the press itself; I had to order a new yoke/handle for an older Bonanza Co-Ax press given to me. Shipped and delivered to my house in 3 days. The new yoke (for the latest made version of presses) fit without a hitch to this 30+ year old press. You can say what you will, but to hold specs that well is impressive in and of itself.

To the OP, good decision.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dogmilk
#22
The Co-ax is a nice press. About everyone that owns one praises it. But, two of the features that are promoted really don't mean much to me. One is the ability to change die quickly. It takes me seconds to screw a die into a press. The other is the universal shell holder. In my former line of work the word "universal" meant that you would need every tool in your tool box to make it fit. If they had screw in dies and conventional shell holders I would have one.
 
#23
lightman said:
The Co-ax is a nice press. About everyone that owns one praises it. But, two of the features that are promoted really don't mean much to me. One is the ability to change die quickly. It takes me seconds to screw a die into a press. The other is the universal shell holder. In my former line of work the word "universal" meant that you would need every tool in your tool box to make it fit. If they had screw in dies and conventional shell holders I would have one.
Click to expand...

Hornady has a quick removal die insert and they make one for the rock chucker, 1 seconds die change. Universal either equals sloppy fit or difficult inserting or removal case.
 
#26
Not about to talk you out of a coax, but I recommend not buying a big boss or bb2. Rockchucker a way sounder press mechanical wise. A T7 is a tank and a good press, but make no mistake the turret will flex some, not saying it is a problem though.
 
#28
I have a bunch of presses including a Co-Ax, two T-7’s, and a Ultra Mag. I’m a precision reloader and if I could only have one it would be the Co-Ax. I can’t tell you the last time I used the Ultra Mag, it along with my two Dillons haven’t even been bolted back to the bench since I moved three years ago. I use one of the T-7’s but only for depriming brass since it’s ultra fast with the inline fabrication ejector system. I do everything else on the Co-Ax, it’s awesome and I couldn’t be without it now.

They’re always backordered though but if you buy it from a good vendor you won’t wait long. I’d recommend Grafs or Cabelas, they seem to get them very quickly, I’m assuming they must keep a lot on order. You probably won’t get a discount on the press but you won’t wait months and months either. They also pop up on here for sale fairly frequently but you’ve gotta be quick.
 
#30
I bought a Co Axel years ago after being told it eleminated run out compared to the RCBC Rock Chucker. Set it up and measurabled the difference in run out compared to the RCBS. Measurements taken via a Sinclair Concentricty Gauge. No viable difference was found. I hand prime and de-prime so the Co Axel’s ability to do so prime is lost on me. So I sold it to my buddie and kept the RCBS.
 
#32
Milo 2.5 said:
Not about to talk you out of a coax, but I recommend not buying a big boss or bb2. Rockchucker a way sounder press mechanical wise. A T7 is a tank and a good press, but make no mistake the turret will flex some, not saying it is a problem though.
Click to expand...

Too late!

So the turret on the T7 flexes, that's lame. The BB2 doesn't have a turret, what aspect is mechanically unsound? Loose/sloppy tolerances? Flexible linkage?

I didn't like the rock chucker (on paper, at least) because it has no priming capability, and the spent primer capture system is subpar.
 
#33
dogmilk said:
Too late!

So the turret on the T7 flexes, that's lame. The BB2 doesn't have a turret, what aspect is mechanically unsound? Loose/sloppy tolerances? Flexible linkage?

I didn't like the rock chucker (on paper, at least) because it has no priming capability, and the primer capture system is subpar.
Click to expand...

Neither of mine flex, I can maintain less than .002" runout on it no matter how I run it, which I consider great for any single stage. With consistent technique down around .001" is the norm.

I do know someone who got one that had some runout and it was linked to the bearing in the head, Redding took care out it. It's certainly not the norm however. They are very solid presses.

RCBS has gone to shit since they moved most of their manufacturing overseas. I wouldn't touch a new rockchucker, the old US made ones were great though. That said, I wouldn't buy a press for priming capabilities since there's no good way of controlling seating depth accurately. It's also a PITA to do on a press and because of the oils/grease on the press, debris from deprimining, plus the need to handle each individual primer you risk contamination. Get yourself a good hand priming tool like the Frankford Arsenal, it's great and runs $50 for a complete kit.
 
#34
dogmilk said:
Too late!

So the turret on the T7 flexes, that's lame. The BB2 doesn't have a turret, what aspect is mechanically unsound? Loose/sloppy tolerances? Flexible linkage?

I didn't like the rock chucker (on paper, at least) because it has no priming capability, and the spent primer capture system is subpar.
Click to expand...
T7 flex may not be an issue, use quality dies. An "O" frame press has flex too, just screw a die down to contact the shellholder, then size a case, you lean over and look and you can see a gap is present.
Yes, the linkage, 2500 sized cases and your ram will look like it is twisting, may not be an issue because it is supported, but if feels like running a worn out handyman jack.
The primer catch system on any redding not fool proof unless you plug the slot in the ram, which you could do on the rcbs also. Coax is the only press I've ran that has 100% spent primer retention.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Agi700
#36
Co-ax is nice but I probably wouldn’t buy again.

Too expensive for what it is and with the way it’s designed, work flow is a little slower than a more tradition O press.

For a few more dollars you can own a Dillon 550.
 
#39
I'm a pretty huge fan of my Co-Ax. I'd never reloaded a day in my life and was producing ammo in the sub 1/2 moa range the first day out ladder testing. Not saying that the Co-Ax is or isn't responsible for that, but for a complete and udder noob it was easy enough for me to get some great results.

If you do end up with one, get an Inline Fabrications mount.
 
#40
I've use one for F-class reloading and I didn't notice any difference between it and ether a Rock Chucker or an old Redding T-25 (pre-cursor to the T-7). I think you would be better off especially just getting going in fine tuning your reloading practices, vs trying to rely on a reloading press to give you more accuracy. That's honestly not where you're going to get more accuracy. Barrel, action, bedding, stock tracking, how well your rifle is put together, good quality dies, proper reloading techniques, and proper shooting techniques will get you far with your shooting.

If you want uber accurate reloading press and dies, get a custom inline seater die made off your case or for your case, and an arbor press. This will produce on average the most "accurate" ammunition as far as runout can concentricity.

You can have the best press ever made, but if all that other stuff isn't set up right or being executed properly, you're screwed. With a well built rifle, quality parts and good shooting techniques, if you are doing worse than 1/2 MOA, something else as far as your reloading technique is wrong.

I've been building F-class and custom hunting rifles for about 10 years and re-loading just as long. While the Co-Ax has a couple nice features, I've never been compelled to buy one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ben17 and Sig Marine
#43
I’m a Forster Co-ax owner, still have my rock chucker, which I use mostly for Bullet pulling. The co-ax is so fast and accurate, nothing feels or functions sloppy. It’s just a better mousetrap. Whether that’s worth the additional cost is up to buyer.
 
#44
Anyone looking for a press should look at the Lee Classic Cast. They first made it with a die bushing so it could take .50 BMG dies which lets it take a Hornady Lock-n-load setup. Now there is a Breach lock version which takes Lee's quick change system. VHS vs Beta, both work, I think I prefer Hornady.

Spent primers go down a hole in the ram leading to a plastic tube which you can stick in a trash can. It's a perfect system.

I'm not sure if it has a priming setup but I would never prime on a single stage press.

The construction isn't as fine as some, the castings are not always super smooth but there is plenty of steel in the frame, the ram is huge and well supported and the linkage is as heavy duty as any I've seen.

I think run-out is perfectly fine, dies installed with o-rings have a small amount of float and everything else is machined as concentric as possible so everything should self center just like a Co-ax. I think the time I measured run-out with a V-block and test indicator, I was getting inside of 0.001" for the most part.

So it's cheaper, bigger and has a better primer disposal system than a Rock Chucker and the difference between it and a Co-ax is at best very incremental.

Worst case it's worth having as a spare press if you eventually decide to buy a Co-ax.
 
#45
Read, re-read and re-read again post #40.

I did not like the ergonomics of the Co-Ax. Sold it. Ended up with an Ultramag that I like a lot better and the original Lee Classic Cast that I like better too.

Master your technique with your BB2 and start making tiny groups.
 
#46
I initially was using the Dillon 550 to reload rifle ammo (I still use it for large volume prep. and even some 308/30-06 win for semi autos.) They din't have the adapter for such as a Redding BR-30 at that time, and the Dillon powder measure would deform my 8x57 brass something horrible, so I was hemming and hawing for a one lung press... for six or more months. Could not decide.

Then in a Precision Shooting (yes, a very long time ago) article on the Army Marksmanship Unit's handloading section where they make competition rounds, there in the background is the Co-Ax. These dudes can have anything they want, BUT THEY HAVE THE Co-Ax!!! Good 'nuff for me. This was back when they sold for around $225.

Buy the extra jaws for larger cartridges set so you will have it when you need it, and a couple of extra jaw springs because they get launched. Also buy the adapter for standard cartridge holders so won't be stranded and at the mercy of FedEx. I've found the LEE holders to be LOTS stronger than RCBS. Don't even think about using the built in primer seater, get an RCBS or the newer LEE.

It is interesting that my Forster 338 Lapua dies _just barely fit_ in the Co-Ax. Everthing else has been a breeze.

It is a sturdy press. I just used it to form 8x58RD from 45-90 Starline brass.

All that and then there is now the Frankford M press, which looks like it could be even beefier and a fraction of the price. I have no experience with it and have never met one personally, so check out the reviews.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Skylvia
SOLD Forster Co-Ax
Replies
1
Views
164
kindabitey
kindabitey
Stag556
SOLD Forster Co-Ax with Inline Fab tall stand, curved linkage and locking rings
Replies
2
Views
256
Stag556
Stag556
DAC_0612
SOLD WTS: Forster CO-AX Setup
Replies
3
Views
591
Tim Barker
Tim Barker
erod007
SOLD WTS: Forster Co-AX Press with Extras and CO-AX Primer Seater
Replies
1
Views
239
erod007
erod007
T
For those with a Forster Co-Ax step inside.
Replies
2
Views
378
sinister
sinister
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Merch
Alerts