I was visiting a local gunsmith, a elderly man who has had a long career in gunsmithing and who's opinon I have always respected. As we spoke, he was mounting a very nice scope on a very fancy target rifle for a customer. He cut two small pieces of black electrical tape with a razor knife just slightly small than the rings and lined the rings with that tape. When I commented that was new to me, he smiled and began to explain. However, we were interrupted by another customer and never returned to the subject. So, what's the deal? Is this common and if so, why?
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Rifle Scopes Tape inside scope rings?
- Thread starter Downtown
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Pure guess, but its to take out any slack and/or add just a hair of diameter so the rings grab onto the optic tube better.
Not sure if thats true, not sure if it works.
Only time I've ever seen someone put tape in their rings was a ghetto way of getting more MOA out of the bottom of the rear ring.
Not sure if thats true, not sure if it works.
Only time I've ever seen someone put tape in their rings was a ghetto way of getting more MOA out of the bottom of the rear ring.
The use of tape is as stated to get a little more height to the rings. Also to raise the scope to a 10moa you can use a strip of beer or pop can that works when no more elevation is in the scope.
Had one in a rifle for years it worked great.
Had one in a rifle for years it worked great.
Seems to me it would be really easy to cause damage to your scope with current tolerances of the CNC machinery. Adding a shim would put every thing out of alignment and a lot of stress on the tube.
https://www.highpoweroptics.com/ringtrue™-tape-three-scopes-p-24944.html
I have seen a couple different tapes that go on the inside of rings.
I have seen a couple different tapes that go on the inside of rings.
It's an old method going back to the times of looser tolerance machining and has no place in today's optics or rings. I have mounted many scopes and never saw enough room for tape between the scope and rings. Properly torqued rings will not allow a scope to slip.
I agree with Rob01. Back in the day I used that method with pop can slivers. Never did any damage to the scope. But I would never do that now. As noted with properly torqued rings I've never had a scope slip.
I thought it was probably a old technique for a good at the time reason. Especially after seeing the ad for scope tape. This man has been mounting scopes since scopes became popular. He's the kind of old guy who has done gunsmithing for fifty years and is a treasure to share his company. Thanks for all your answers. Man, I love this site.
Yes, this is an "old school method" that was predominant back "in the day", well before anyone had heard of or invented CNC machines. Computer designed, CNC cut, serialized matched rings have not only replaced pop can pieces (it's really amazing looking back that we used to do this lol) but essentially replaced the old method of lapping rings as well. Give me a set of precision CNC rings anyday, ha!
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It works, it works well for several problems. I don't do it much any more, but wouldn't hesitate to.
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I've done this for a long time. No marking of the scope tube and the scope will not move in place. In recent years I've not done it except for one that moved under recoil. Those were Seekins rings.
I've not heard of using that to add MOA though.
I've not heard of using that to add MOA though.
If a scope moved in Sekkins rings then those rings weren't torqued properly. I have used Seekins rings since around 2004/2005 on many scopes and rifle combos and never had one let the scope move when properly torqued. Did someone happen to lap those rings?
These friction tapes have their place. Centerfire rifles are just not big scope abusers. Springer air rifles on the other hand slide rings, bend mounts and slide scopes in rings. Rosin and different friction tapes are commonly used.
I had a gunsmith use tape on a set of rings, was surprised to find it when I swapped it to another rifle. Not needed with good quality rings.
I have micrometers and both dial bore and snap gauges. I always check both OD of the scope and ID of the rings prior to mounting a new scope. It takes very little time to check both and once done, I will decide if I need to do any shimming or even take a fuzz off the flat face of the rings to get a little additional clamping.
I have had to make adjustments when I'm working with lesser scopes and want to put a 1" scope in 30mm rings. There are plastic shims for that and I usually wind up cutting a bit off the ends to give the shims a little squeeze room.
It really takes very little clamping force to hold a scope in place. The heavier the recoil, the more I tend toward wider rings for more clamping area.
I have had to make adjustments when I'm working with lesser scopes and want to put a 1" scope in 30mm rings. There are plastic shims for that and I usually wind up cutting a bit off the ends to give the shims a little squeeze room.
It really takes very little clamping force to hold a scope in place. The heavier the recoil, the more I tend toward wider rings for more clamping area.
Its one of those "gunsmith" hacks that should have never been started. Bad idea and serves no purpose with quality rings.
In my experience, older smiths tend to do things different... Especially when it comes to putting together an AR or when doing real "smith" type work (they are more hands on). Doctors are the same way too, come to think about it. Older folks just aren't as flexible to new ideas as younger ones.
FWIW, we used to use Loctite when assembling optics and such, but I found over time that seldom does Loctite set right without being on threads for some reason so I quit doing it. This was 15 or more years ago, and like is said, rings these days are much better. Wow, are they ever so much better! Quality ones anyway.
Most of the rings I use are so damn spot on that not only does the scope not move at all, they don't leave marks on the tube either. That's dead on tolerance, but it requires the scope mfg. to meet their end of the bargain and that tube HAS to be 30 or 34mm or whatever.
The better ones in the know will use undersize rings and lap those to the scope vs. lining a fatter ring. Not a fan of scope ring liners to make them work with different size tubes either.
I just ordered some of this tape. I have a Leupold 1" 4.5 to 14 scope on my M1A match. I lapped the rings with the Wheeler lapping kit and I did a fine job of it. Smooth as a babies ass they are inside top and bottom. Went to the range a couple weeks ago and fired about 20 or 30 rounds off the bench when I noticed the scope had moved in the rings. No problem I thought so I preceded to tighten them up when I discover they are already tight as a banjo string. That scope slid about a 1/2 inch. This is the first time this has ever happened to me. There's about a 1/16 of an inch gap between the upper and lower half's both front and rear. Just when you think your an expert this happens. I have used Violin rosin before and it works but leaves a hard layer on the scope when removed.
So I ordered this tape as mentioned in the post with a link.
Those are just grossly overpriced pieces of Kapton tape:
Insulating Kapton® Tape
Thorlabs specializes in the building blocks for laser and fiber optic systems. From optomechanical components to telecom test instrumentation, Thorlabs' extensive manufacturing capabilities allow us to ship high quality, well priced components and devices for next-day delivery. Optomechanics...
www.thorlabs.com
It works well enough inside scope rings to prevent slipping.
It is very uniform in thickness, so while it is mostly unnecessary, there is usually no harm in using it.
ILya
Better than tape is a product from 3M called Scotchkote. This is used by some of the best gunsmiths in the country (E.g. New England Custom Guns). Scotchkote is a Liquid coating used to coat electrical wires. It can be applied to the inside of scope rings and removed later if desired by acetone or solvent. Use provides several benefits. It allows for better Scope alignment, provides a positive grip, and protects the scope from marring.
What is your opinion of companies like ERA-TAC recommending a piece of latex placed between the scope and rings? Shit quality? lol
FWIW, I don't use anything in any of my rings.
My opinion is I wouldn't use any ring that recommends that.
I just wanted to bump a three year old thread, to tell y'all to put liquid electric tape in your rings. 
I like to pour sand in my rings, to create a mechanical lock. Order black sand, its tactical as fuck.
I like to pour sand in my rings, to create a mechanical lock. Order black sand, its tactical as fuck.
Ive used beer cans on cheapy truck guns.
Have a savage axis with a weaver, that when zeroed, had loosened the erector. ...cheap package gun.
A strip or two of beer can got the gun running and reliable....shot a coyote at 280ish yards standing.
Doesnt belong on anything else though.
Have a savage axis with a weaver, that when zeroed, had loosened the erector. ...cheap package gun.
A strip or two of beer can got the gun running and reliable....shot a coyote at 280ish yards standing.
Doesnt belong on anything else though.
Aluminum shims compress with age.
I suggest fresh cold shims installed in the field, will help you pop them yotes at longer distances.
I suggest fresh cold shims installed in the field, will help you pop them yotes at longer distances.
