So i got my can finally and it sounds great but after only 20 rounds, I am absolutely furious. The suppressor is stuck halfway. It threaded on smoothly but it was a little tight. I noticed the threads on the can itself were a little rough but I thought they would smooth out after a little use. WRONG. I noticed the problem after about 20 rounds when I was taking the can off of my R700 to do some testing with subsonic loads and it threaded fine until it stopped halfway. It is not cross threaded. I have tried everything to get it off. PB Blaster soak, heating it, freezing it, strap wrench and nothing. I'm so pissed right now but if anyone has any ideas on how to get this damn thing, I will gladly give it another shot.
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Suppressors TBAC 30p-1
- Thread starter HawkDriver
- Start date
Hi,
Sorry to hear you're having problems.
Most of the time suppressors get stuck because the pitch diameter of the muzzle threads is too large.
It's best to never force threads, even if you are tempted to do so to get it off. All you will do with a strap wrench is cause additional thread damage.
If you get a can stuck, it's best to send us the barreled action. Unless it's been reefed on we can usually remove the suppressor without causing any meaningful damage to the suppressor threads.
More information about thread specs and pitch diameter, and how we test cans
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Videos?s=thread
Give us a call tomorrow and we can figure out what to do to get you back in the game ASAP.
Sorry to hear you're having problems.
Most of the time suppressors get stuck because the pitch diameter of the muzzle threads is too large.
It's best to never force threads, even if you are tempted to do so to get it off. All you will do with a strap wrench is cause additional thread damage.
If you get a can stuck, it's best to send us the barreled action. Unless it's been reefed on we can usually remove the suppressor without causing any meaningful damage to the suppressor threads.
More information about thread specs and pitch diameter, and how we test cans
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS
Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Videos?s=thread
Give us a call tomorrow and we can figure out what to do to get you back in the game ASAP.
Sounds like pretty good customer service to me! I think youll be taken care of just fine.
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Got my 30P-1 this month as well Hawk. I had three hosts I was excited to try it on; on the first two it threaded on super easy, which it should. On the third it got about two or three threads down and just stopped, like it was binding up. Moderate twisting was barely moving it, so I did not force it on. My guess is the third rifle was not threaded properly, so I'm going to take it to the shop where I had my others done.
Sorry to hear about your issue, but Thunderbeast will take care of you. On a side note, I absolutely bought the right can and could not be happier.
Sorry to hear about your issue, but Thunderbeast will take care of you. On a side note, I absolutely bought the right can and could not be happier.
I love the can. It is the quietest can I've ever (not) heard. There was very minimal POI shift. I am very pleased with the can overall, just frustrated with the whole situation of it being stuck. My gunsmith machined the threads to CNC specs, I tried several muzzle brakes an they all threaded fine. My guess is that something may have broken loose. I'm no expert in machining or anything though and I look forward to hearing from the guys at the shop.
I have to say that having Zak post a response to the post describing the problem in a little over 20 minutes, speaks volumes to me. I had already decided to purchase a 30P-1, and this just sealed the deal for me.
yup. zak was emailing me on thanksgiving. that sealed it for me.
i really want to know what happend with the thread though!
Concur! Hopefully I will have approval of my Efile form 4 within the next few days and be able tp pick up my 30P-1!
Gives me a great deal of comfort observing how Zak goes the extra mile......and then some.
Gives me a great deal of comfort observing how Zak goes the extra mile......and then some.
I am almost to the end of my Form 4 wait and have a TBAC can awating pick up in Cheyenne. I can't say enough about the customer service there.
As for your thread issue.....I install muzzle devices, not as many per year as some of the bigger shops, but quite a few. I use an old school manual lathe, indicate the barrel in and cut the threads. I refuse to cut threads on a muzzle without having whatever device is going to be used in my hands. I want the threads to mate as close to perfect as possible and can only do so with the device to test the fit. Call me paranoid to not trust the manufacturer's specs but if I have both pieces of the equation in my hand I know things fit before they head out the door.
As for your thread issue.....I install muzzle devices, not as many per year as some of the bigger shops, but quite a few. I use an old school manual lathe, indicate the barrel in and cut the threads. I refuse to cut threads on a muzzle without having whatever device is going to be used in my hands. I want the threads to mate as close to perfect as possible and can only do so with the device to test the fit. Call me paranoid to not trust the manufacturer's specs but if I have both pieces of the equation in my hand I know things fit before they head out the door.
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I've never needed the customer service but Zak has always responded to my questions quickly. Love my 30P1. My problem is opposite yours. My suppressor backs off while shooting. I wish that I would have taken my suppressor with me to GAP when I had them thread the barrel then I could have had them make the threads a little tighter maybe.
Hi,
If it's backing off, try giving it a snap with your wrist to seat the shoulder, sometimes that will help it stay retained. It really shouldn't be coming loose in a precision application though. We'd be happy to take a look if you want.
If it's backing off, try giving it a snap with your wrist to seat the shoulder, sometimes that will help it stay retained. It really shouldn't be coming loose in a precision application though. We'd be happy to take a look if you want.
Just got my 3rd tbac for a 20 Vartarg barrel attatched can. same guy has threaded all my barrels without
any issues. the Vartarg took about 20 minutes of me screwing it on till it started to bind, taking it off, cleaning, applying
copper anti-seize. reattach, going a bit further each time sometimes by 1/2 turn. have shot 300 rounds out of it now
and it goes on and off as smooth as silk. tbac , I wouldn't use any other can.
any issues. the Vartarg took about 20 minutes of me screwing it on till it started to bind, taking it off, cleaning, applying
copper anti-seize. reattach, going a bit further each time sometimes by 1/2 turn. have shot 300 rounds out of it now
and it goes on and off as smooth as silk. tbac , I wouldn't use any other can.
If you use this.... Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS and a set of Thread/Pitch gauges you will have no problem threading for suppressors.
Watch the videos at said link.
Watch the videos at said link.
If you use this.... Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS and a set of Thread/Pitch gauges you will have no problem threading for suppressors.
Watch the videos at said link.
Yes, do that! For serious guys.
Some of the suggestions in this thread are a little bit scary, and by that I mean a significant portion of our "My can is stuck" calls are introduced with similar stories,
There's nothing wrong with having the can in hand, but a ring gauge ("GO") should be what is used to determine if the muzzle threads have been cut to a small enough pitch diameter. Gunsmiths who are in the habit of just shaving a little bit off the threads until the muzzle brake screws all the way are a significant source of stuck-can mishaps.
I'm glad it worked for you, but this is a little scary too. There is one exception, and that's when the reason the can won't screw all the way to the shoulder is because you've been shooting it on another rifle that has a shorter distance from muzzle to shoulder, and carbon has built up on the threads. This can be cleaned off with a bristle brush or a tap (carefully). But if that's not the problem, if it's really so tight you have to work it in with anti seize, it would be a better idea to go back to basics: measure the pitch diameter of the muzzle threads and/or ring gauge it, and then use a die to clean it up to spec.
Just today we got a barreled action back with a can that was stuck "halfway off". We were able to get a thread mic in there on the exposed ones and sure enough the pitch diameter was 0.002" over max.
If something doesn't feel quite right when screwing on a can, it's best to back off and figure out what's going on, and have it fixed the right way. If in doubt, give us a call.
thanks
Zak
That was mine. I have a hard time believing that the tools that Tom Sarver used to thread the barrel were wrong. I have had several other items threaded onto the barrel and only had the chatter with the TBAC can. He had the can in hand when he threaded it and matched everything. Would it have not threaded on and off several times if the threads were too big?
HawkDriver,
I sent you a pretty in-depth email just now. Please give Shane or I a call if we can explain further.
In the interest of general education about thread fit, I'll include some of it here for everyone's benefit. Most of this is covered in the thread videos we have online if you like to watch and listen instead of read, check those out.
Hope this helps. The last thing we want is for cans to get stuck. But nobody wants a sloppy thread fit either. Unfortunately, the muzzle threads and brake/fh threads out there are all over the map, some looser than 2 and some tighter than 3. When we started making thread-attach cans, we decided to use a Class 3 fit for precision. This is more demanding for the other half of the system than any old A2 birdcage or muzzle brake out there.
For anything a lot more specific about the machining process, I will defer to William, our shop foreman, who lives and breathes this stuff every day and is the one that actually fixes everything, and Shane, who amongst everything else he does, is the head machinist.
thanks
Zak
I sent you a pretty in-depth email just now. Please give Shane or I a call if we can explain further.
In the interest of general education about thread fit, I'll include some of it here for everyone's benefit. Most of this is covered in the thread videos we have online if you like to watch and listen instead of read, check those out.
Hope this helps. The last thing we want is for cans to get stuck. But nobody wants a sloppy thread fit either. Unfortunately, the muzzle threads and brake/fh threads out there are all over the map, some looser than 2 and some tighter than 3. When we started making thread-attach cans, we decided to use a Class 3 fit for precision. This is more demanding for the other half of the system than any old A2 birdcage or muzzle brake out there.
For anything a lot more specific about the machining process, I will defer to William, our shop foreman, who lives and breathes this stuff every day and is the one that actually fixes everything, and Shane, who amongst everything else he does, is the head machinist.
thanks
Zak
Opinion: You will NEVER go wrong with a ThunderBeast Suppressor.
Advice: EACH time you install or remove your suppressor, treat it as if it were made of fine crystal.
You only get to screw it up ONCE.
Advice: EACH time you install or remove your suppressor, treat it as if it were made of fine crystal.
You only get to screw it up ONCE.
If the threads are cut right, no need, it's good to go. The 30P-1 I still shoot was made 5 years ago and has been screwed on and off hundreds of times, no babying and no issues.
Ugh...he's a jarhead grunt. We can fuck up a ball bearing in a sand box with two rubber mallets. Better let him keep going with his treat it like fine crystal thing.
shot a 30p1 this weekend...rifle was a prague ok build threaded for another tx based titanium can...the tbac can threaded on/off like butta...absolutely first rate performance...@ 500 yds first round hit on 6" steel w/wo can...tbac mo'better than tx airplane can...
Had same experience very recently with can going on fine but not coming off fine. TBAC was very helpful and quick with response. And after sending the can back along with the barreled action to get repaired/threads fitted the pair were sent back to me pretty much the next day after they had just received it.
It seems to go on fine now but have not had a chance to get it back out to test.
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It seems to go on fine now but have not had a chance to get it back out to test.
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My rifle found its way home today. Thanks again for the help, Zak. It is much appreciated. You'll be hearing from me soon about a .338 can.
My Dad and I have consecutive numbered 30-P1s. His can had the same problem. Thankfully mine hasn't stuck. Our solution was 2 strap wrenches to get it off and carefully tap the threads on the can and now we use anti seize. No more problems. Doesn't hurt to run a die over your barrel but the threads likely won't be hurt since the titanium threads in the can are softer than the steel threads on the barrel. Got our tap and die from Brownells.
Strongly recommend to never use a strap wrench. The likelihood of wiping out the can threads is high. If we get it before it's been forced we can almost always save the suppressor threads. You lucked out that they were not damaged too much.
Wow, must we go through this all again. Please read the thread before posting nonsense.
You're right posting about my same problem is complete nonsense and unrelated to the main post. Just telling him what we did without cutting off the end of his barrel, having the barrel rethreaded and recrowned, sending the can into TB and paying shop labor to have them remove it (not a warranty issue). Worst case scenario the threads get ruined and you send it in anyway. In that case they said they bore out the back, insert a new piece, rebore it, and rethread it. Then you still pay shop labor. When you wait over a year to get your can it is hard to trust the post office with it and send it back. I know TB doesn't recommend my solution. Heck I don't even recommend it but it worked. Threads on the can are barely damaged.
Just because it worked for you (99% of the time it will not) is not a reason to try it or suggest it or offer your solution. See above quote.
Have your rifle threaded correctly or have it checked by someone who is qualified and have them fix it right. If they don't use the proper tools or even know what they are, you need to find a new smith. Ask lots of questions with the information that is in the videos I posted. It will save you money in the long run.
The point is.... the issues you just posted are the very reasons you should have a competent gunsmith cut your threads to spec or have them checked if in doubt (link provided in previous post) then you don't have those issues. There is enough bad information out there already with out adding to the confusion.
I have even found factory threaded rifles out of spec, how that happens is crazy.
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The gamble paid off in your case and I'm glad you were able to get it back operational.
The reason I say to send it in is that if the can threads are wiped out, it is much more costly to rethread the can vs. rethread the barrel. 99% of the time, forcing it off with tools will damage the can threads and then we're forced down the more expensive path.
The reason I say to send it in is that if the can threads are wiped out, it is much more costly to rethread the can vs. rethread the barrel. 99% of the time, forcing it off with tools will damage the can threads and then we're forced down the more expensive path.
Keep in mind that stainless is harder than titanium. When TB says they won't hurt your threads they mean your barrel threads. There is one way on and one way off. If they damage your suppressor threads too badly they have a method of fixing them. Either you risk ruining your threads and MAY have to send it in or you send it in and they ruin them and fix them. They are just very good at what they do and it will look brand new when you get it back.
Our can that stuck had been on and off of that rifle and other rifles several times with no issues. Lesson learned, always make sure threads on rifle and can are clean before threading it on.
I am not telling them to do what I did it is their can and their choice.
Our can that stuck had been on and off of that rifle and other rifles several times with no issues. Lesson learned, always make sure threads on rifle and can are clean before threading it on.
I am not telling them to do what I did it is their can and their choice.
I lost track of all the theys and thems, but just to clarify:
* If somebody uses a tool to force off a stuck can, the suppressor threads are almost always toast (like 99% of the time)
* In "most" cases, doing so will screw up the barrel threads too.
* If we get it before it's been really forced (and more damage has been done), we can remove the barrel from the can and in "most cases" this will leave the suppressor threads OK and we'll just have to rethread the barrel.
* We can completely replace suppressor threads. It will be as good as new, but it takes some time to do it, and thus is costly, approx 3x more costly that what we'd charge to just rethread a barrel.
The reason we recommend to send it instead of rolling the dice is that on average it ends up costing more to get everything fixed if you force it with tools (99% failure that incurs more cost to repair everything) vs. having us do our best to salvage the suppressor threads.
The best thing to do if you get a can stuck is to give us a call immediately.
Let me try to extrapolate what this youngster is sayin'-
His Surgeon built rifle shoots really well with his TBAC. Even better than with a Shark suppressor.
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