TBAC brake stuck in suppressor?

[Charger442]

I think the real issue is always one thing is getting done and not the other. For a gunsmith, no doubt they can time the brake and torque it hard enough it will not come off. For most of your shade tree diy mounters, we really need a combo of both.

I have torque wrenches for automotive use, and small torque wrenches for working on guns but to measure torque in a muzzle device chances are you need an automotive torque wrench with crows feet wrenches also. I've never thought I needed that level or that much torque.

So I time the brake using shims, test mount it with ample torque with barrel in a vise, pull it off again, clean both threads, use my preferred flavor of locktite and reinstall.

When both torque and thread locker are applied ive never had an issue.

But rocksett has always screwed me

 

[Cascade Hemi]

Well, I'm not smarter than the manufacturer, but I'm not dumb. And my darned can keeps getting stuck! With Red 272! And even the manufacturer had to machine my brake out of my 338 Ultra can, without identifying what made it so hard for them too, so there's something there.

Or should they just have screwed it onto a barrel with some 272, waited a day, and twisted it off with more elbow grease than I'm capable of?

What did you torque the brake to when you installed it the first time?

 

[TheOE800]

But rocksett has always screwed me

What does this mean? I’ve seen people destroy guns before getting a muzzle device that’s been torqued on with too much Rocksett, but are you saying you’ve had a muzzle device come loose?

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

Well, I'm not smarter than the manufacturer, but I'm not dumb. And my darned can keeps getting stuck! With Red 272! And even the manufacturer had to machine my brake out of my 338 Ultra can, without identifying what made it so hard for them too, so there's something there.

Or should they just have screwed it onto a barrel with some 272, waited a day, and twisted it off with more elbow grease than I'm capable of?

Have you tried using copper antisieze on the can and qd brake ? Get it clean and put a good amount of that antisieze on it and it will come off a ton easier.

 

[Charger442]

What does this mean? I’ve seen people destroy guns before getting a muzzle device that’s been torqued on with too much Rocksett, but are you saying you’ve had a muzzle device come loose?

my theory from years ago is that rocksett has a shelf life. Older KAC mounts have always come with rockett. i had a bottle of it for a few years and tried to do a TBAC brake install with it. brake came out in the can. have had KAC mounts come loose using it also.

maybe if i got a fresh supply of it everytime i used it, it would work better?

and yes, i am aware of what rocksett is supposed to do and how hard its supposed to stick and resist heat. water soluable and all that jazz. but for me personally, its not worth it when i can pick my preferred hold strength of a 20 year old tube of locktite and not have to worry about it.

obviously, my experience is anecdotal.

 

[Charger442]

Have you tried using copper antisieze on the can and qd brake ? Get it clean and put a good amount of that antisieze on it and it will come off a ton easier.

then you have antiseize on anything and everything that gets within earshot of it.

antiseize is like the herpes of the thread treatment world. highly contagious and you cant just wipe it off....

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

then you have antiseize on anything and everything that gets within earshot of it.

antiseize is like the herpes of the thread treatment world. highly contagious and you cant just wipe it off....

I don't have any trouble wiping it off or any other issues with it actually. It works great for keeping my can able to be removed from the qd brake without all the fuss.

 

[TheOE800]

my theory from years ago is that rocksett has a shelf life. Older KAC mounts have always come with rockett. i had a bottle of it for a few years and tried to do a TBAC brake install with it. brake came out in the can. have had KAC mounts come loose using it also.

maybe if i got a fresh supply of it everytime i used it, it would work better?

and yes, i am aware of what rocksett is supposed to do and how hard its supposed to stick and resist heat. water soluable and all that jazz. but for me personally, its not worth it when i can pick my preferred hold strength of a 20 year old tube of locktite and not have to worry about it.

obviously, my experience is anecdotal.

Of course it does. Fresh rocksett is runny, old rocksett is gummy or even dried up.

 

[secondofangle2]

Have you tried using copper antisieze on the can and qd brake ? Get it clean and put a good amount of that antisieze on it and it will come off a ton easier.

Yes that’s exactly what I use. I suck it up into 10cc syringes and keep one in each range bag with my cans

And yes it’s messy

 

[Charger442]

I don't have any trouble wiping it off or any other issues with it actually. It works great for keeping my can able to be removed from the qd brake without all the fuss.

maybe i use the wrong kind. my shop has antiseize everywhere, it seems.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

maybe i use the wrong kind. my shop has antiseize everywhere, it seems.

I mean, it's all messy but it's a lot less messy in the small tube vs the bottle with a brush that you might see in a mechanic shop. Just wipe up any excess immediately and it isn't an issue

 

[Fig]

It is messy stuff no doubt, but it works and completely eliminates the problems talked about here. I learned this back in the '90s from Gunners Mates, and have always done it this way with no problems. I actually find those little plastic, single-use tubes of spark plug anti-seize are messier than the jars with the brush. You never seem to be able to put the right amount on with those little tubes, but they're also alot easier to keep in your kit.

I'd rather deal with containing the mess than deal with a stuck brake or a stuck can...

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

It is messy stuff no doubt, but it works and completely eliminates the problems talked about here. I learned this back in the '90s from Gunners Mates, and have always done it this way with no problems. I actually find those little plastic, single-use tubes of spark plug anti-seize are messier than the jars with the brush. You never seem to be able to put the right amount on with those little tubes, but they're also alot easier to keep in your kit.

I'd rather deal with containing the mess than deal with a stuck brake or a stuck can...

Yeah I tend to get the metal tube that's like a toothpaste tube but smaller. The opening is the right size to just put a dab on my finger so I can rake it over the threads on my qd brake. I generally do about 3 of those dabs and rake it down the threads in 3 different places spaced sort of equally around it and then screw the can back and forth a time or two to make sure it's got good coverage.

 

[Holliday]

Jesus, I read through this thread and wonder what Bizarro-world planet I woke up on.

For my Ultra Cans I simply install them hand-tight. Not “arm” tight but just hand tight. I have put thousands of rounds through them and never had one even come close to being stuck. I try to removed my cans, if not every range trip, every other. I give it a good tap tap on a wood surface large opening down, inspect the brake and reinstall. When I clean my rifle I use some carbon-remover on the brake.

During install I use Zak’s recommended Loctite and shims (fucking hate peal washers). I time it so the brake gets around 30-40 lbs of torque. TBAC Shane says in one of his videos that torquing too much can alter the muzzle an affect accuracy.

If you like DT over the taper mount, you do you. I personally LOVE the taper mount. That said, I think to suggest that folks don’t screw up as much or more with DT is just ludicrous.

 

[secondofangle2]

What did you torque the brake to when you installed it the first time?

I honestly odn't recall. Probably not enough torque as I have been warned about over-torquing muzzle devices, some say it effes up accuracy if you do that

 

[PlinkIt]

I'm another copper based anti size user

For all you fusing about how messy it is...
Get the stick version, it's not as runny

It's no worse getting spread around than the carbon from the muzzle brake getting on everything even with the bottle though

 

[Zak Smith]

FWIW, as far as I know, all of us at TBAC just keep the CB outer threads clean of debris and never use anti seize on the CB outer threads or female can threads. Including the demo guns Ray takes to shoot fests, etc. Personally, I find it more likely that anti seize will retain dust/debris that will then get stuck in that area. Especially with the Iobonded brakes, it is extremely unlikely you'll actually get galling even if the thing got on there super super tight.

The one time I got a BA can on there really good, I had been shooting it for quite a while, and then loosened it enough to break some carbon free (gun was muzzle up), just enough to have it fall down into the threads, and then for some reason decided to screw it back tight. That one was on there really good because I had fouled the threads with carbon dust first.

 

[secondofangle2]

Jesus, I read through this thread and wonder what Bizarro-world planet I woke up on.

For my Ultra Cans I simply install them hand-tight. Not “arm” tight but just hand tight. I have put thousands of rounds through them and never had one even come close to being stuck. I try to removed my cans, if not every range trip, every other. I give it a good tap tap on a wood surface large opening down, inspect the brake and reinstall. When I clean my rifle I use some carbon-remover on the brake.

During install I use Zak’s recommended Loctite and shims (fucking hate peal washers). I time it so the brake gets around 30-40 lbs of torque. TBAC Shane says in one of his videos that torquing too much can alter the muzzle an affect accuracy.

If you like DT over the taper mount, you do you. I personally LOVE the taper mount. That said, I think to suggest that folks don’t screw up as much or more with DT is just ludicrous.

"262 or 271 it doesn't matter" (from the linked video)

Well, that has been retracted. One day we will acknowledge that 272 doesn't *always* cut the mustard too.

 

[Zak Smith]

Hi,

I have seen applications of 272 "fail", IE, be able to be broken with WAY less torque than would normally be required to break the device free when 272 was used. I generally attribute this to either poor surface prep, insufficient loctite amount, or old/"stale" loctite.

The ones I do where I clean both surfaces, use a bottle that's relatively fresh, and use it liberally-- I have never had one of those break without deliberate removal steps.

 

[Raffy]

"262 or 271 it doesn't matter" (from the linked video)

Well, that has been retracted. One day we will acknowledge that 272 doesn't *always* cut the mustard too.

??? Whatchu talkin bout Willis?

 

[Holliday]

Hi,

I generally attribute this to either poor surface prep, insufficient loctite amount, or old/"stale" loctite.

Interesting, I have never thought about the shelf life of these thread lockers. I need to read up on that and perhaps buy smaller bottles.

 

[PlinkIt]

...I find it more likely that anti seize will retain dust/debris that will then get stuck in that area. Especially with the Iobonded brakes, it is extremely unlikely you'll actually get galling even if the thing got on there super super tight.

The one time I got a BA can on there really good, I had been shooting it for quite a while, and then loosened it enough to break some carbon free (gun was muzzle up), just enough to have it fall down into the threads, and then for some reason decided to screw it back tight. That one was on there really good because I had fouled the threads with carbon dust first.

Yes I can come confirm it does help attract junk

The only time I ever use it is when I clean the brake and can

No telling how many times I may put it on and off before cleaning and reapplying again

Might screw up tomorrow and be calling yall to help fix it but seems to work well so far

 

[Budrichard]

Used Rocksett (it was a liquid out of a new bottle) to install brake for a TBAC Suppressor.
First time I removed the TBAC, the brake came with it.
Cleaned threads and used Red Locktite to mount the brake/suppressor.
Waited two days, suppressor came right off.
-Richard

 

[Jcarpenter223]

This happened to me because I mocked one up with NTB brake just to see what it looked like. Pretty much like a little kid that couldn’t wait till the next day. This was just the other night so I haven’t got it out yet. I was going to try a nut and bolt threaded in and then tighten the nut down carefully. Like I said haven’t tried it yet.

Guess why I'm here researching.... I just wanted to see what it looked like. 20 more hours to go till cured

 

[Bigrederic]

Guess why I'm here researching.... I just wanted to see what it looked like. 20 more hours to go till cured

It worked when it happened to us at work.

 

[Jcarpenter223]

It worked when it happened to us at work.

Yup, I knew it as soon as I took off can. Blue loctite on now lol.

 

[Jcarpenter223]

Spun right off. Also sent a couple rounds of 6br I had laying around. I love the can, so nice.

Anyone got a big bottle of 272 they wanna let me borrow a couple drops? Haha

 

[Lawnboi]

Spun right off. Also sent a couple rounds of 6br I had laying around. I love the can, so nice.

Anyone got a big bottle of 272 they wanna let me borrow a couple drops? Haha

Before I got 272 I used 271 on a few rifles. Even on my match gun in the heat of summer it didn’t budge. Still took a barrel vise and a torch to break off.

 

[secondofangle2]

All I know is my 338 ultra seized up so bad I had to send it to TBAC and they couldn’t get it off either. They turned it in the lathe to remove it.

I don’t know why we can’t have even a narrow flat on the brake???

Why why why

 

[kthomas]

All I know is my 338 ultra sized so bad I had to send it to TBAC and they couldn’t get it off either. They turned it in the lathe to remove it.

I don’t know why we can’t have even a narrow flat on the brake???

Why why why

Not having flats is silly, IMO.

 

[Jcarpenter223]

I grabbed some permatex 27200 off Amazon. Anyone need some drops, I gotchyou

 

[LeftyJason]

I grabbed some permatex 27200 off Amazon. Anyone need some drops, I gotchyou

I bought 2 bottles off there in 2019 cause the first got stolen off my porch. Hope someone used it on something. *evil laugh*

 

[Jcarpenter223]

Welp, took the can off for a few matches and then tossed it back on and shot a 2 day night match, went to remove the can and brake came off with it, heated it up thinking that’s what I needed to do and all I did was loosen the red loctite, decided to deal with it a few months later and picked up a thread adapter and jam nut off Amazon…that was insanely easy…just a slight bit of carbon holding on…

 

[secondofangle2]

Please elaborate on this technique and tools

 

[TheOE800]

Please elaborate on this technique and tools

Muzzle thread adapter + jam nut screwed into the brake. Tighten jam nut then unscrew adapter. I have a Precision Armament thread adapter and JP jam nut.

 

[Jcarpenter223]

Please elaborate on this technique and tools

Thread jam nut all the way onto adapter, screw in adapter into stuck muzzle brake, screw down jam nut really snug, take wrench and turn on the adapter , muzzle brake broke free with almost no effort, I didn’t even have the can in a vise, just held onto it while I turned the wrench.

 

[Jcarpenter223]

Also got them off of Amazon

 

[ZiaHunter]

Little tool I made in the shop to free the BA from the can. Made with 4140 and TIG welded nut with Hastalloy W after the pictures were taken.