-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Suppressors TBAC Ultras stay tight?
- Thread starter oniak
- Start date
I’ve never used it with the TBAC brake, but my ultra is rock solid on the area419 adapter.
I've only had my Ultra 9 in my possession for less than six months, but so far its never came loose a single time. I almost subconsciously check the suppressor after a bit of shooting so I can't say for certain about long strings of fire. Just as Ray says, they seem to get tighter while hot because of expansion, but come right off when cool.
I always ran Direct thread cans before the Ultra, and having them come loose after some shooting seemed to be an issue, especially on factory threaded barrels.
I always ran Direct thread cans before the Ultra, and having them come loose after some shooting seemed to be an issue, especially on factory threaded barrels.
If anything it will be the reverse, when hot you probably won't be able to remove it.
Since the late '80s I have always put copper anti-seize (the high heat stuff for sparkplugs) on my barrel threads and cranked the suppressor down as tight as I can and still be "Hand Tight". I've never had one work off and I've never had to put one in a vice because it got stuck. IMO you should have to put a little effort into unscrewing it or it wasn't tight enough to be completely safe.
Mine comes loose every couple rounds. Clean, dirty, with or without anti seize. I've got 3 mounts and it backs off on all of them. Even with a strap wrench I get 5 rounds max. PITA to keep track of so I don't use it much anymore.
I didn't catch it in time and had a baffle strike because it backed off. I paid to have it rebuilt and checked out. Got it back and I was told the mounts and can looked good. Still came loose. I followed up but didn't get anywhere.
ive been shooting my TBAC since it was on the old BA design, sent it in for the recore and upgraded to the CB and Ultra core and have kept on trucking. stays tight, cold or hot. i give it that little extra wrist flick at the end when tightening and sometimes it takes some muscle to get it off after some carbon lock-up.
How many pills down the tube I think is a lot less relevant than heat and rate of fire at each use.
My rate of fire is about the same with a bolt or a gas gun, and I certainly pause every ten shots or so and let things cool off. I don't have a dedicated can for every rifle, so my cans are constantly going off and on. I have no idea how many down the pipe.
However, I can assure you that the anti-seize works. The first place I saw it used was on sub-machine guns being fully abused and punished by ripping off magazines and fast Mag changes. Those cans would melt your flesh. By the time you could touch them you could screw them off hand. It's not that they keep the can from coming off. It's that they allow you not to worry about cranking it on because it might seize. As I stated before, I crank mine down as hard as I can without using a tool. I've never hurt the threads or anything like that, and they don't come loose till you crank the opposite way.
When I lived in VA someone gave me a box of these little plastic tubes (each one good for lubing up a suppressor about ten times). It’s a multi-lifetime supply.
They’re not this brand (they say Nappa) and are about an inch long, but they look like this:
I honestly haven't seen anyone else use it, and I don't know why because it eliminates almost all the problems with direct thread. I guess that QD brakes have come a long way and are GTG now, but I still wary of them and married to DT.
My rate of fire is about the same with a bolt or a gas gun, and I certainly pause every ten shots or so and let things cool off. I don't have a dedicated can for every rifle, so my cans are constantly going off and on. I have no idea how many down the pipe.
However, I can assure you that the anti-seize works. The first place I saw it used was on sub-machine guns being fully abused and punished by ripping off magazines and fast Mag changes. Those cans would melt your flesh. By the time you could touch them you could screw them off hand. It's not that they keep the can from coming off. It's that they allow you not to worry about cranking it on because it might seize. As I stated before, I crank mine down as hard as I can without using a tool. I've never hurt the threads or anything like that, and they don't come loose till you crank the opposite way.
When I lived in VA someone gave me a box of these little plastic tubes (each one good for lubing up a suppressor about ten times). It’s a multi-lifetime supply.
They’re not this brand (they say Nappa) and are about an inch long, but they look like this:
I honestly haven't seen anyone else use it, and I don't know why because it eliminates almost all the problems with direct thread. I guess that QD brakes have come a long way and are GTG now, but I still wary of them and married to DT.
My TB 7” and 9” cans have always been tight using their brake. However, it is always good practice to check after the first 5 rounds.
Every once in a while mine will try to work loose. I put a witness mark on the back of it with a paint pen so it's easy to tell without having to touch it. Also helps verify that it's actually tight vs carbon in the threads.
I use the hellfire adapter deal from a419 with several rifles and an ultra 9 and ultra 7. I’ll typically screw it on and off and give it a nudge with the wrench that comes w the a419, it puts it just past hand tight. I’ve ran several matches with it and haven’t had it loosen up or alter POI
@Cegorach was active just 32 minutes ago.
Surely he will stop by and update us about his loose TB can.
Surely he will stop by and update us about his loose TB can.
It definetly sounds like I'm in the minority for bad experiences with this mounting system. I'll get in touch with Zak again for round two of trying to get this resolved. I'd love to have it fully functional.
I have issues with mine loosening up. It shows up as bullet spray on target, which ruins a good group if I am messing around at the range trying new loads. It has never loosened more than about 1/8 of a turn before I detect it but it makes me apprehensive at times. I use my Ultra 7 for two 308's, a 6.5x47, and a 300 BLK. It has loosed up on all but the BLK. So I have painted marks on the ends for each rifle with different colors to index the can when tight so I can check at a glance if it is starting to work loose. I am careful about tightening the can "just right" while trying not to over tighten it, because several times it has come off the 16" 308 with one my CB brakes still inside when it was too tight. I guess the red thread locker on the CB had melted. Anyway, I still love the Ultra 7 and I am a big fan of TBAC (their bipod I have is so badass) but I plan to relegate the Ultra 7 to my hunting rifles (low round count rifles) as soon as the new locking Dominus version is in my hands. That one will go on my comp rifle just for the extra confidence. I should add that I do not do mag dumps, and never fire more than ten rounds inside of a minute, and even that is rare. I will also try that anti-seize that Fig mentioned.
Rock set is a better thread locker versus loc tite
Lock tight loses strength with heat.
Rock set loses strength when soaked in water.
High temp red for the win.
If the can is on a CB brake "hard", it can unscrew rocksett.
It sounds like a few of you have CB's that don't stay tight. Please reach out to us and we'll see if we can get it squared away. We've never had one get loose on a CB brake in all of our testing and demo use, etc, but if it's a 0.01% problem, it's gotta be something related to the particular parts you have and we should be able to fix it.
If the can is on a CB brake "hard", it can unscrew rocksett.
It sounds like a few of you have CB's that don't stay tight. Please reach out to us and we'll see if we can get it squared away. We've never had one get loose on a CB brake in all of our testing and demo use, etc, but if it's a 0.01% problem, it's gotta be something related to the particular parts you have and we should be able to fix it.
Zak you guys rock. One question for you... does the brake need to be clean to lock the can on? Mine looks ok around the threads and cones but there is quite a bit of carbon buildup on the ported sections of all my brakes. Maybe there’s some buildup that I’m missing on the cones. I use a rag to wipe off the inside of the suppressors cone and threads before installing but these usually are already shiny clean. But not so much the brakes themselves. Excuse my ignorance, it’s my first can.
Have you considered swapping it to an Area 419 mount? Their adapter has a hex that protrudes out the back, which can be tightened with their included wrench. Their interface is a much longer shallow taper as well, and they stay very tight.
My Ultra 9 and Ultra 5 will get just detectably loose on occasion. I'm pretty sure those are days when I probably didn't have it as tight as it should have been when I mounted it. I had a devil of a time once getting a can off that I had really torqued on, so I suppose I lean towards under torqueing vs over. When it's happened, I hit it again pretty hard and then they stay solid.
No, as long as the shoulder surfaces are clean it should lock up tight.
You just have to heat it up hotter than the normal loctite
Here's another way to look at it. If you twist it on "as hard as possible" using one hand, you should still be able to get it off with two hands.. "maybe" a rubber strap wrench. If you twist it on "as hard as possible" using two hands, you aren't going to hurt anything, you just might really have to use a rubber strap wrench to get it off.
That is probably my issue then, which I’ll accept as a learning curve mistake on my end. I’ve been hesitant to really torque it on due to fear of damaging it when unscrewing it. I’ve been a little too gentle with it it sounds like.
I waited soooo long for it to arrive I didn’t want to do anything to hurt it. And being so light weight I wasn’t sure how rugged it was. I’ll start using more force when installing. Sounds like it can handle it.
Thanks again.
You guys experiencing similar lockup with the 419 parts? I am super pumped for my Ultra 7 and 22 Takedown (May hopefully) and want to run on multiple guns. Been looking at the Area 419 system and wondered what the thoughts were from the group on lockup with that as compared to the TBAC brake.
This kind of tightening isn't a TBAC deal, simply a suppressor deal. Not a lot of great ways to avoid it if you still want a solid/repeatable lock-up - especially not simple ones. It's one of the reasons we like to leave some provision for a hand-tool (like a little aluminum wrench that can stay in your pack) on our 419 suppressor mounts and now Maverick.
I just wanted to say that I’ve been tightening the Ultra 7 down really tight since and it has not come loose on any of my rifles. Thanks again for your help.
Still getting a Dominus though.
Similar threads
