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My 6ARCs. 21 and 9.5lb as pictured-- PRS and everything else.
Wow, you guys have some very nice AR's!! I recently started building some and sold my first few. Currently I have a couple of .223 Wylde. One is a 24" and a 16". Then 2 300BO's. I'd like to build a AR10 in 308 18" and a 9mm carbine in 12" before long.
New build, will take better pics tomorrow…
LMT MARS-LS with LMT 12” Shovelnose Piston upper. EXPS3 w/G45. SF Mini WML.
Geissele SD DDC 11.5”. EXPS3 w/G33. NGAL. SF Mini. RH25 Thermal.
Geissele SD DDC 11.5”. EXPS3 w/G33. NGAL. SF Mini. RH25 Thermal.
Aero Precision Enhanced upper & lower, buffer tube and gas tube
All Geissele controls with Super 42 Braid buffer spring & H2 buffer SSA-E trigger
Geissele Airborne Charging Handle in DDC
BCM Handguard and BCG
Criterion 14.5” barrel SLR gas block
Area 419 Linear comp
Magpul furniture
Scalarworks Leap08 scope mount
Vortex Strike Eagle 1x6 Opmod from Optics Planet
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I lied, they're never done. Swapped to a FCD VLTOR A5 and added some Ultradyne C2 BUIS. These sights are pretty damn awesome, can't believe how 'fast' they are in terms of acquisition and alignment.
To me you can't even compare the two. Maybe I'm still in the Honey moon phase with these things, but they feel about as close as you can get to a red dot with a mechanical system.
Knights cqb on centurion lower. Rc2 can
Hodgepodge of parts. 6lbs with a red dot. A little more with the Eotech.
Aero M4E1 upper and lower
BCM MCMR13 handguard
Faxon 16" Gunner barrel
Wilson Combat 3# single stage
Lightweight BCG
SA AGB
Aero M4E1 upper and lower
BCM MCMR13 handguard
Faxon 16" Gunner barrel
Wilson Combat 3# single stage
Lightweight BCG
SA AGB
Another nice 16" Recce bid with a Proof 16" CF barrel. Took three shots to get POA = POI at 50 yards. Shots 4-8 went into 1.5" at 200 yards, and that's with just an 8X optic. I don't think these Proof barrels require much breaking in...
Oof, I want to try a proof barrel so badly!
Built another upper today.
CMT UPUR-1
CMT HDM 13"
Criterion 16" Core / CMT gas block
Built another upper today.
CMT UPUR-1
CMT HDM 13"
Criterion 16" Core / CMT gas block
Love it! Looks awesome!Thank you! Sorry for spamming haha. Here's another!
Pretty mediocre so far, still working on load development. Best group yet was with 108bergers going 2500fps
Attachments
24” ballistic advantage. I dont think it is necessarily slow, that was a fairly mild load. I expect to be more around 2600fps, i ran some hornady 108 match ammo at 2640fps.
@harleyman1974 wow, eye-popping awesome paintjob. regarding your brake, I think usually, the big ports face sideways, and the small round holes face upwards to mitigate muzzle rise. Kinda interesting that the small round holes are both sides, though, cancel each other out. But of course, how you orient it, it's totally user preference, it's your gun, certainly very individualized, to say the least.
Thanks. There was a washer included in the package. I didn't know what it was for. Makes sense to change the orientation. I'll fix that.
Something a little different than the usual, new whitetail rig. 10.5” 450 bushmaster.
Finally got the Hybrid for my deer rig this year. Rifle already has a few deer under its belt from years past, but now it will be a bit easier on the ears to shoot.
Very nice! Well done! You didn't cerakote the tube? Just curious if it's possible.
The buffer tube or suppressor?
The buffer tube is cerakoted, suppressor isn’t. I’m sure you could do the suppressor, but they get so insanely hot that I doubt it would last long.
Latest put together. Need to find a better fitting bolt catch, the Geissele just doesn't look right.
- CMT Billet Upper and Lower
- Criterion Core 16"
- Reptilia Corp CQG Grip, Magpul MOE SL-M Stock, Radian CH and Selector, FCD LDFA, V7 dust cover
- Holosun HE515GM-GR, MBUS Pros
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Had enough time yesterday evening to put together this new upper for a lower I had sitting around… It’s an Aero Precision M4E1 Enhanced upper, with a 10” 1:7 .300 BLK barrel, and a 9” handguard. My old EOTech 512 on top, a Dead Air KeyMo brake, and one of my Sandman-S cans.
The lower, is a PSA (I know, I know…But they are WAY better than they used to be) with an ERGO grip, SB brace, Noveske H2 buffer, KNS pins, and currently a PSA EPT trigger…Soon to be swapped-out with a Rise 434.
I have been very impressed with how well that lower fits all my uppers…There is virtually zero slop or play. It fits VERY snug.
The lower, is a PSA (I know, I know…But they are WAY better than they used to be) with an ERGO grip, SB brace, Noveske H2 buffer, KNS pins, and currently a PSA EPT trigger…Soon to be swapped-out with a Rise 434.
I have been very impressed with how well that lower fits all my uppers…There is virtually zero slop or play. It fits VERY snug.
on your KNS pins, I think you have the hammer pin, and the trigger pin reversed. The hammer pin has the mid circumferential groove, to accommodate the typical hammer internal J-spring. The trigger pin doesn't have that groove, but the trigger pin takes those miniature Torx screws. so on AR's, usually the KNS pin with the Torx screws is rear-ward, and the KNS pin with the external locating flats is forward.
you'll also see faux KNS pins reversed on AirSoft AR's.
some cassette triggers don't have a hammer J-spring, which then makes it moot. The J-spring keeps the hammer centered on the hammer pin. FWIW.
nice PDW, BTW.
Yeah... I've been building and messing with AR's for over 20 years...I'm pretty sure I know how the FCG works, and how drop-in triggers don't have a J-spring or hammer spring with tension to hold the pins in place.
Also, you do realize there is no right or wrong way to install those, correct? They're 100% reversible. As long as they stay tight, that's all that matters. And I have absolutely zero clue about anything airsoft. My opinion is... If you're an adult, go buy a real gun like a grown-up.
That being said, I am well aware of how most people install them...I reversed them on purpose. I run them like that on all my AR's, as there's a method to my madness. This way when you run your finger down the side of the receiver to drop the mag, it's flat, and you're not overlapping a bump (screw head) sticking out of the side of the receiver, to get to the release button.
