The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

Nailed it. Very happy. As I said, 6.5 cm and .300 nm next possible conversions to add. It takes ages here in Europe to see those coming and I am afraid 300 nm is not even registered as possible caliber on the MRAD platform. Not a problem, I own the first 6.5 cm AR ever built or imported here so I am well aware of the pleasure burocracy can bring to a hobby. Is just like hunting a giant moose.
I will adjust the furniture tonight (ergo grip wrapped in vetrap like on all my other rigs) and, with all due respect, I will look around for a sexier bolt knob.
Spuhr mount 4002 0 MOA and a Minox ZP5 ready to go. I will replace it with a March fx 5-40 once it will show up (another everlasting wait)
Breaking up the barrel on saturday.
Thank you all for the contribution to this thread, very useful.
 
Nailed it. Very happy. As I said, 6.5 cm and .300 nm next possible conversions to add. It takes ages here in Europe to see those coming and I am afraid 300 nm is not even registered as possible caliber on the MRAD platform. Not a problem, I own the first 6.5 cm AR ever built or imported here so I am well aware of the pleasure burocracy can bring to a hobby. Is just like hunting a giant moose.
I will adjust the furniture tonight (ergo grip wrapped in vetrap like on all my other rigs) and, with all due respect, I will look around for a sexier bolt knob.
Spuhr mount 4002 0 MOA and a Minox ZP5 ready to go. I will replace it with a March fx 5-40 once it will show up (another everlasting wait)
Breaking up the barrel on saturday.
Thank you all for the contribution to this thread, very useful.

I've heard that the March scopes tend toward the bench rest and the F-class crowd. Guys who always shoot from a chair and bench and have plenty of time to fuss and fart around tinkering till they see it just right love their March scopes. Those of us with a more tactical (PRS) mindset love our S&B, Night Force, and Vortex ATACAR's and Beast's. I want a scope with a big juicy eyebox, and that is what a tactical mindset requires.
 
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I've heard that the March scopes tend toward the bench rest and the F-class crowd. Guys who always shoot from a chair and bench and have plenty of time to fuss and fart around tinkering till they see it just right love their March scopes. Those of us with a more tactical (PRS) mindset love our S&B, Night Force, and Vortex ATACAR's and Beast's. I want a scope with a big juicy eyebox, and that is what a tactical mindset requires.
I already have one I got from a Brit guy when I was working there and challenged against S&B ( I have a 5-20 US) and Minox ZP5 and I found the eyebox of the Fx version forgiving enough for tactical use. Forget about the other monsters like the 8-80 and such, not for us I second totally what you say. What I like most of the Fx is power combined with light weight and size, well fitting my semiautos. However, I might give up waiting on it and turning towards a NF ATACR F1 for the MRAD (5-25 or 7-35).
 
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I've always wanted an MRAD, shame they are retailing for anywhere between $11,500 and $12,900 Australian dollars.... We have issues with big companies screwing everyone into oblivion here - painful when EuroOptic has them retailing for $5,500 USD approx.

Beautiful rifle guys, good work.
 
I've always wanted an MRAD, shame they are retailing for anywhere between $11,500 and $12,900 Australian dollars.... We have issues with big companies screwing everyone into oblivion here - painful when EuroOptic has them retailing for $5,500 USD approx.

Beautiful rifle guys, good work.
We feel for you, maybe it could ease your pain knowing that the MRAD is listed at 10,500 euros (at least here in Italy) and find a bargain is more difficult than finding two jars of H4350 which is notoriously much more difficult than finding unicorn dust. Undigging a treasure of roman gold coins in a field is a much more common event.
 
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We feel for you, maybe it could ease your pain knowing that the MRAD is listed at 10,500 euros (at least here in Italy) and find a bargain is more difficult than finding two jars of H4350 which is notoriously much more difficult than finding unicorn dust. Undigging a treasure of roman gold coins in a field is a much more common event.
it isn't cheap here in Canada, but you are making me feel like I got a steal of a deal
 
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it isn't cheap here in Canada, but you are making me feel like I got a steal of a deal
96C is bloody right drooling in front of Europtic website from the wrong side of the pond is a real pita. I payed 8keuro for mine and is a great "wintertime after Christmas" price...but it took a lot of patience. Now the pain comes for conversions, 2350 euro for a fluted barrel...no mercy on those. And no chance for carbon fiber.
 
96C is bloody right drooling in front of Europtic website from the wrong side of the pond is a real pita. I payed 8keuro for mine and is a great "wintertime after Christmas" price...but it took a lot of patience. Now the pain comes for conversions, 2350 euro for a fluted barrel...no mercy on those. And no chance for carbon fiber.
Jesus christ that's expensive! There are no laws that I am aware of for exporting barrels and the like from Canada, so would it be worth trying to buy it from Canada? I think they are ~ 1800$ CAD/1200 Euro here. Even with shipping it would be quite cheap by comparison.
 
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Now here is the barrel cleaned with J-B bore compound. I must say, all of the copper and even nickle is removed. Two times about 20 strokes forward and backward.
Here both views.. straight and 90 degrees with the borescope. And also you can see the crown with a high resolution.



 
I wonder how much barrel life that cleaning cost you.
I tend to think in the same fashion. I don't like to clean my rifles. I only clean if I'm in a dust storm or have just shot a couple hundred rounds at a competition, end of the season type of thing. I think it takes 15-20 rounds to get it shooting right after a cleaning. Just MHO.
 
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The safety and mag release are ambi, Never seen one with a LH operated bolt, or a hinge on the other side of the stock.

Wait a second, you got me, of course they do, they are all RH.
 
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The safety and mag release are ambi, Never seen one with a LH operated bolt, or a hinge on the other side of the stock.
I'd imagine it's a return on investment type of thing? Lefty's are the minority.

When I've shoot the MRAD in competition offhand, I don't seem to have any problems hitting the targets. Maybe it's just me?
 
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Yeah, we are. I don't have a problem hitting targets with a right handed bolt, I just don't like manipulating the bolt on follow up shots with my support hand. I have a hard time keeping the rifle still like that
 
Yeah, we are. I don't have a problem hitting targets with a right handed bolt, I just don't like manipulating the bolt on follow up shots with my support hand. I have a hard time keeping the rifle still like that

I don't like removing my firing hand to cycle the bolt. To each their own.

I've been scratching my head for last year or so wondering why more manufactures don't optimize the left hand bolt, right side port, eject? Maybe I'm crazy? Is that just a F-class thing?
 
I wonder how much barrel life that cleaning cost you.
I dont think so. First, i only did this once because the barrel is nearly new. Its recommended to clean a barrel chemically when its new, or if the rifle doesnt shoot accurate any more.
In my case i cleaned chemical with several solvents without success. There was still some colored material inside the barrel which was not from me. I dont think so that a one time cleaning action with J-B will cost a lot barrel life. Have you ever tried to polish a hole in a however very thin sheet metal? I think rudimentary not. Not with a cream like J-B, and even not with a car polish.
 
I dont think so. First, i only did this once because the barrel is nearly new. Its recommended to clean a barrel chemically when its new, or if the rifle doesnt shoot accurate any more.
In my case i cleaned chemical with several solvents without success. There was still some colored material inside the barrel which was not from me. I dont think so that a one time cleaning action with J-B will cost a lot barrel life. Have you ever tried to polish a hole in a however very thin sheet metal? I think rudimentary not. Not with a cream like J-B, and even not with a car polish.

Have you ever noticed how those doing the recomending are the same people who are going to sell you another barrel when the one you have is wore out.
 
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I dont think so. First, i only did this once because the barrel is nearly new. Its recommended to clean a barrel chemically when its new, or if the rifle doesnt shoot accurate any more.
In my case i cleaned chemical with several solvents without success. There was still some colored material inside the barrel which was not from me. I dont think so that a one time cleaning action with J-B will cost a lot barrel life. Have you ever tried to polish a hole in a however very thin sheet metal? I think rudimentary not. Not with a cream like J-B, and even not with a car polish.
I guess I don`t understand why you cleaned it... If it shot well (and I believe you said it did), then I don`t see a reason to clean it, but I can see a downside. Now you need to foul the barrel and you may have removed some life as I was under the impression it is an abrasive.
 
Have you ever noticed how those doing the recomending are the same people who are going to sell you another barrel when the one you have is wore out.
The German Huntung Federation.. they dont sell barrels. And never ever a Barret one :D
Basicly i have the same opinion. But i wanted to start from a new clean barrel and with a one time cleaning procedure.
 
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I guess I don`t understand why you cleaned it... If it shot well (and I believe you said it did), then I don`t see a reason to clean it, but I can see a downside. Now you need to foul the barrel and you may have removed some life as I was under the impression it is an abrasive.
The reason is i do not use copper or red brass bullets. I only use nickle plated bullets. I dont like a pre-fouled new barrel. Dont ask me why .. ?
 
The reason is i do not use copper or red brass bullets. I only use nickle plated bullets. I dont like a pre-fouled new barrel. Dont ask me why .. ?
it`s your rifle, you get to do with it what you want. I wasn`t judging, I just didn`t understand.

Working on bolt knobs to replace the cheap plastic ball. Stay tuned.
will the folder still work? I'm at work but I thought the stock latched on to the bolt knob when you folded the stock.
 
it`s your rifle, you get to do with it what you want. I wasn`t judging, I just didn`t understand.


will the folder still work? I'm at work but I thought the stock latched on to the bolt knob when you folded the stock.

Yep, It has to. This implies that you can’t have an onion finishing your bolt, but I don’t like large knobs. But the mrad deserves something nicer than the plastic ball. The thread is also non standard btw.
 
1260y first round hit on a 10 inch plate today with the 6.5 barrel.

Dilly Dilly
This is not fair...:) they will rip off my pockets the equivalent of 2,500 USD for a 22" fluted 6.5 cm conversion and will not deliver it earlier than two months from now. The official importer first answer was '....in six months from now'.
You could regain our consideration only by sending an umbrella or a golf iron set to us poor europeans with a cf barrel as the stick.
 
This is not fair...:) they will rip off my pockets the equivalent of 2,500 USD for a 22" fluted 6.5 cm conversion and will not deliver it earlier than two months from now. The official importer first answer was '....in six months from now'.
You could regain our consideration only by sending an umbrella or a golf iron set to us poor europeans with a cf barrel as the stick.

So your importer is FLIR?
 
No, they're in the LE/military/fire control business. Loads of nice toys but not for us afaik.
first round hit on 10" steel at 12k yards is pretty impressive...handloaded pills or factory ammo?

It was a joke because basically everything FLIR says about delivery times is utter bullshit :D

Handloaded. I still have boxes of the 'old' 140g AMAX rounds and have had a load for them for a while so didn't want to redo it until I run out and try something like the newer Nosler 140 RDF; or I may just mess with it sooner or later anyways.

42.5g H4350
CCI 200 primer
Hornady brass with .002 neck tension
.010 off the lands
 
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123 AMAXes are shooting well in my semmi as well as Berger Hybrids. Now I will develop my OCW for the MRAD with those pills with both H4350 (got 5 jars finally after more than six months wait) and VV N150 (moving forward will be the easy choice based upon availability) but I have to wait till I get the 6.5 cm kit. For the time being I will handload .308 with Lapua and Peterson Palma brass and VV140 (obvious choice here) with 150-168 gr bullets ( i have Noslers and Amaxes at hand)
 
That's one of the 'why did they do this shit?' things I have with the MRAD. They're all small, but why??

- Why is the fucking bolt knob plastic. Of all the things you could cut weight on, thanks for saving those 2 ounces on the bolt knob.
- Why is it no matter what color MRAD you get, it always comes with the same black Magpul grip?
- Why can't you put a fucking caliber mark on the damn bolt head?
- Why do the rail piece inserts for the QD swivels allow the swivels to rotate 360 degrees instead of stopping so my sling doesn't try and make origami out of itself?
- You went through all that trouble to make a foldable stock with an adjustable cheek piece and adjustable LOP; why can't the fucking buttplate rotate then?