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I know you asked this a while back, I've been gone for a bit and just saw it. Bore Tech made these a while back specifically to fit the MRAD. I don't know if they still do/have them or not but this one works great and fits perfect. Sorry about the shitty photography.Another new owner question. When cleaning the bore, what do you recommend for a bore guide?
Thanks,
Phil
does anybody know the manufacturer of the mrad barrels? Are they cold forged? or lapped? How is the quality compared to other precision rifles?
Is it possible to let manufacture a custom barrel, with a caliber what is not offered by barrett?
What height rings?My new play toy in multi-role brown, sporting the 24 inch, 300WM barrel, 5-25 atacr on nightforce rings, and accushot monopod and bipod
What height rings?
What ring height on Barrett MRAD for NightForce ATACR 4-16x50?
Has anyone heard any rumors about a larger caliber MRAD offering? Like for .338, .375 and .416 in a multi caliber?
Wait... So the mead won the ASR competition or is this a different contract?
One of my friend shot few box with Norma ECO, that use this same king of nicke plating in the bullets.
Hi did not need to shoot even 3 20-round box when the accuracy was totally losted, i mean that this Blaser did shoot 1/2 MOA group before, but after about 50 shotOne of my friend shot few box with Norma ECO, that use this same king of nicke plating in the bullets.
Hi did not need to shoot even 3 20-round box when the accuracy was totally losted, i mean that this Blaser did shoot 1/2 MOA group before, but after about 50 shot with this ammo, it was totally useles.
Nothing else but these nicklel plated ammo was causing the dilemma.
That freaking nickel is in the barrel like a shit in the wall.
We had to to do a lot of work that we get that nickel out of the barrel, bronze brush and all kind of cobber removers, nothing.
One of my friend told us that only nitric acid will remove that nickel on the barrel.
So we had to took the barrel out of the rifle, put a cap on to other end, fill the barrel with nitric acid and put cap to the chamber.
That nitric acid was in side in the barrel about 1 hour.
After that we did made long cleaning rod with the carbon fibre bow arrow, epoxy glued nylon brush on that and we did wind the barrel with electric drill machine, and dropping CLP in to the barrel for a while.
It took about an hour to make that barrel enough clean that the nickel out of the bore.
So i would NOT recomend to shoot with the nickel plated ammo for all the time.
Like this ammo of RWS is more hunting ammo, that range cartridge, if you ask me, i would not use it any where than in the hunting, and that goes every nickel plated ammo.
https://rws-munition.de/en/rws-hunt...how/speed-tip-professional/338-lapua-mag.html
But every one can do what they want, and spend the money like they want...
Thanks for your experiences.
I decided to use two .338LM barrels. One only for hunting with Nickle plated ammo, and a second barrel for range cartridges. The accuracy of the hunting ammo is in my barrel better than 1 MOA and has a fantastic hunting effect. But i do not want to mix different ammo into one barrel.
By the way, i have a custom barrel in manufacturing at a german barrel manufacturer for the MRAD. Its in .375 Chaytac. It will go to March 2019 until its finished. I am looking very forward
So merry chrismas and a happy new year to you all
Found a smoking deal on a MRAD online... Ships tomorrow.. have wanted one for almost 5 years sense I held one at SHOT Show
It is in 338 Lapua ... I would prefer a 300wm... so if anyone wants to trade barrels let me know lol
This rifle : Integral 20 MOA 22" (55.9 cm) M1913 optics rail
And I have 20 MOA scope mount, 20 + 20 = 40 MOA is too much ?
Thanks
Have an mrad in 6.5 and have been very happy with it. Want to get into 338 and trying to decide on getting a conversion kit or a separate rifle. I am wondering when changing calibers how accurate the return to zero is.
I've had mine for a limited time but did observe a decent amount of shift between .260 and .338 that was repeatable within one to two tenths of a mil. I had close to one mil windage and .5 mil elevation going from the .260 to .338. I did purchase all components used and don't really know the part's service history or treatment by previous owners.
Based on advice from other MRAD owners there are a few things I could have done to mitigate this:
-Install barrel with rifle vertical so that the barrel's weight seats it against the shoulder while tightening the bolts
-Mitigate minor play between barrel index pin and index notch by rotating barrel to right or left as it is seated (just do it the same way)
-Tighten bolts alternately 1/4 to 1/2 turn until tight, but torque front bolt first
A caliber conversion, especially if purchased on the PX, is going to be significantly cheaper than even the optics on another rifle. For me that was the appeal of this system in the first place.
Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
Or a S&B 5-25 with h-37 in a Geissele mount . Sad all my FDE not quite matching lol.
Thank you for the reply, so do you have it figured out to when you go back to .260 from .338 you can repeatedly get a consistent zero?
That is similar to the results I saw with my friends mrad.. how did the .338 group look ? Or where you even shooting groups with .338?