These things always seem to be a lot of work to put together, the vendor wants to know exactly how many will be in the buy before releasing his best price, and we want to know the price before we decide if we are in. I appreciate Cellar Spider's efforts on our behalf but unless he can confidently say how many are interested it seems like it will be hard to close the deal.
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The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!
- Thread starter IanHusaberg
- Start date
These things always seem to be a lot of work to put together, the vendor wants to know exactly how many will be in the buy before releasing his best price, and we want to know the price before we decide if we are in. I appreciate Cellar Spider's efforts on our behalf but unless he can confidently say how many are interested it seems like it will be hard to close the deal.
I got the open top pouch with the bungee.
The main issue is that the actual nylon for the pouch is too high up, as in it swallows all of maybe 1/2 inch of the magazine. This makes for getting it out a total bitch.
To complicate matters, the bungee doesn't do shit because of the poor design. Since the magazine sits so low in the pouch, the bungee sits another 1/2 inch above it, doing....nothing. It basically just impedes you from grabbing the mag because you now have the bungee sitting directly above the middle of the mag but since the mag is so long the bungee is too short to clear towards either end of it, yet it doesn't actually positively hold the mag into place because there isn't enough of the mag sticking out to actually engage the bungee.
If you cinch the excess shock cord to make the bungee touch the mag, its impossible to pull the actual mag out.
It's fucking retarded.
I'm looking at something TYR makes for the Barrett 338 as well as for the PSR.
http://www.tyrtactical.com/products/details/magazine-rifle/10-round-single-338-barett-mag-pouch/
http://www.tyrtactical.com/products/details/magazine-rifle-sr/10-round-338-mag-pouch/
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The TYR looks nice! Price is reasonable too. I'll be buying two of them in coyote brown. I was considering the Barrett one before you said something, Thanks for saving me some $!!!!!!!!
Not yet. I just finished my last PRS comps this season. I'm looking into doing field matches and national PRS (3 or 4 matches around the NW ish) next season. I will be buying some of these(At least 2).
I broke the MRAD yesterday at the range. Well, not really. I switched the barrels out from the 260 to the proof 338. I thought, I had two rounds stuck in the camber. I used a cleaning rod to remove the cases from the chamber. After the second round came out easily, I started to scratch my head and wonder why. Opened the bad boy up and pulled out the bolt. I thought I might have broken the extractor? It wasn't the case. The spring that wraps around the bolt(c-clipish)for the extractor, had come out of its groove and made it so the bolt couldn't be remove from the plastic bolt sleeve. I don't know why or how it came unclipped? I pushed it back onto the bolt. Anyone have this issue, with any caliber conversion kit?
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Tried re-loading for my 6.5 Creedmoor MRAD. after neck sizing 1X Hornady brass, the case would not fit in the chamber without a LOT of force. Same with extraction. measure at the shoulder and got 0.463. Specs show 0.462. I ended up FL and brought shoulders back down to 0.462 and now it chambers fine.
So i got curious and have a set of PTG go, no-go, field-gauges...both no-go and Field gauges failed...should i worry?
that said, the rifle's got 80rnds of 140ELD-M (81500) Factory ammo through it without issues.
So i got curious and have a set of PTG go, no-go, field-gauges...both no-go and Field gauges failed...should i worry?
that said, the rifle's got 80rnds of 140ELD-M (81500) Factory ammo through it without issues.
When you say that the nogo failed do you mean:
1) The bolt would not fully close on the nogo---
or
2) The rifle failed the nogo headspace test by allowing the bolt to fully close---
If you mean (1) then that is what is supposed to happen. If you mean (2) then I have seen people recommend putting a bit of scotch tape on the back of the nogo and trying again. They say that each layer of scotch tape is a known amount (perhaps .003) and by seeing how many layers it takes to make it so that the bolt will no longer completely close you can determin just how far out of spec the rifle's headspace is.
Thanks Diverdon.
I mean it failed as in the bolt closed on BOTH gauges. I will try the tape method. any other insight?
Once you have determined how far out of spec it is you might want to post the question in the gun smithing forum. There are a lot of guys there who would have a far more informed opinion than I do. You might also want to talk to Barrett and see what they have to say. Barrett customer service at 615-896-2938 during the business hours of 8:00am and 4:30pm CST Monday through Friday.
I have the same problem with my Horandy Brass as well. I found that if you bump size you have to go more than the avg 0.002 or else the same situation happens with the bolt not being smooth when you rack a round and it does feel as if your forcing them into it. I noticed using Lapua brass it allows you to stay close enough to 0.002.
Try bumping the shoulder back to .003 or .004 on some brass and test that out see what you get.
I'm still new to re-loading...when you say bump the shoulder down, does that mean:
1. the length of the cartridge got longer and needs to be pushed down @ the shoulders (which would mean the 30* shoulder is off?)
2. the diameter of the shoulder? So far i've bumped the shoulder diameter smaller from 0.463 to 0.462 and at this measurement it fits the chamber fine.
Using a FL die to shrink the shoulder diameter down, however, i do not set up the die to touch the shell holder, i leave about 1/8" space between bottom of die and shell holder. Seems to work fine...just looking for re-assurance that this would be ok to do?
thanks all!
Watch the YouTube video below, it really helps explain the difference between a few different sizing methods. If your new to re-loading its just some good knowledge to understand what can happen. Typically I think its a bit easier to hear and watch a video to better help visualize/understand whats happening when your comparing "Bump sizing" vs "FL sizing"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2Wt8-VqeAE
TheGerman Got to take the old girl out for a walk last night. Shot great as expected. Got a good laugh when my buddy shooting him Remington 338 Lapua was crying about how much recoil he was fighting even with a can. Another guy that was out there with us told him to sell his piece of shit and buy a Barrett without me saying anything to instigate it!!! Masterrace indeed
Take 3 with the damn picture posting problems.
Take 3 with the damn picture posting problems.
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I've been out shooting the 338 myself last week or so. I did a hike yesterday, with the fat lady. 15 miles or so, round trip. Good thing I didn't shoot a elk or I would've been screwed. I was a little in over my head. A day late and a dollar short. Outfitters with horse passed me 5 minutes into the hike at 5:45 am. I was 40 miles into the Grey's river, near the McDougal gap, Wyoming. I hiked all the way up North fork of sheep creek to find the outfitters had shot a elk at first light hours ahead of me. I saw signs of wolves, that had chased the elk right into the bullet of paying clients. It was a beautiful hike up. I started to pay the price of hauling up the MRAD down. At lunch by the Lake(pond) I saw and had a chance to shoot a beautiful coyote @ 600 yards. I didn't take the shot. I can kill one of those any day. I'm looking for the MRAD's first elk and mine.
I was thinking how nice a Christensen arms TFM in 338 with an AMG vortex would have been during my hike? Then I read this. There's always two sides of the coin.
I do wish I had a 26 heavy 338 Lapua barrel for the MRAD. It does still feel like a soft 300 Win Mag. when shooting the Proof 24" barrel. I'd take the extra velocity and added weight for recoil when shooting for fun. The Sig Kilo 2400 and this Rifle package gave me my first round hit at a 1 moa size target at 1200 yards this year on my 37th birthday. The high price of admission has been worth $ sent. I couldn't be happier ditching the Savage FCP-HS or the G7-BR2. Not that they are bad, The Barrett MRAD and Kilo 2400 are leaps and bounds better. The only problem now, is I have to work on a first round hit at a Mile. That might require a Kestrel 5700 as well to round out the package as well?
My buddy called me the next day after shooting and he had a pretty good bruise after shooting 20 rounds HAHAHAHA. Needless to say no bruise here.... Yeah Ill take the weight and pack this 26inch barrel around any day.
PM inbound Ian.
PM inbound Ian.
I was working on the 338LM load development. I have to say, calling the recoil on this thing mild is being unfairly harsh. I swear my un-braked 308 had more recoil. On the plus side, I found a nice fat ~1 grain node between 90 and 91.2 grains of h1000 under 285 ELD-M. I didn't have a chrony with me, so I have no idea what the velocities are like, but the groups at 200 yards were very promising (sub .8 MOA with virgin, unprepped brass).
Is anyone else using H1000 and 285's?
Is anyone else using H1000 and 285's?
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I just got my stamp back for the Barrett AM30 suppressor. Anyone else running one on their MRAD? I'm curious about how much shift I will see.
I will be. I am on my last box of factory Hornady 285s. What cases are you using and are you seeing any pressure signs with that load??
sierracharlie338 Not sure what you guys are complaining about with the weight. 
The funny thing is, anyone I know who shoots either wants an MRAD after shooting mine/watching me shoot it, or all of a sudden doesn't mention their superawesomecool custom gun much anymore.
Had a class recently where I had to have the MRAD stowed (I sling it on my back, cinch it against my ruck like I always have), full chest rig, ammo, hydro and a M4 and did drills with it all depending on if it was close or far and this got mixed in pretty well on top of some fire/manuever and a few hikes.
By the way, if you guys are looking for a do it all molle rig for hunting/comps/whatever, look at the LBT 6034E as its easy to scale and does everything you need. Used it with the LBT modular ruck on the back that I could lash my tripod to and get all my datacards and LRF into the rear of yet still get me hand on without taking it off and enough space off the direct front of it to put MRAD pouches for reloads even while prone, let alone enough real estate to get the M4 pouches I needed up front, multi tool, TQ and a smoke or 2 or more M4 mags depending on how I scale it.
I'm disappointed in you not taking the 600y coyote shot IanHusaberg ! That's right around the range where most people think its an easy hit and then....its not.
For the suppressor, I'm waiting on the AAC Titan which should probably be here sometime before 2034. I'll eventually get around to having the QD muzzle brake put on all my barrels but I'm in no hurry.
The funny thing is, anyone I know who shoots either wants an MRAD after shooting mine/watching me shoot it, or all of a sudden doesn't mention their superawesomecool custom gun much anymore.
Had a class recently where I had to have the MRAD stowed (I sling it on my back, cinch it against my ruck like I always have), full chest rig, ammo, hydro and a M4 and did drills with it all depending on if it was close or far and this got mixed in pretty well on top of some fire/manuever and a few hikes.
By the way, if you guys are looking for a do it all molle rig for hunting/comps/whatever, look at the LBT 6034E as its easy to scale and does everything you need. Used it with the LBT modular ruck on the back that I could lash my tripod to and get all my datacards and LRF into the rear of yet still get me hand on without taking it off and enough space off the direct front of it to put MRAD pouches for reloads even while prone, let alone enough real estate to get the M4 pouches I needed up front, multi tool, TQ and a smoke or 2 or more M4 mags depending on how I scale it.
I'm disappointed in you not taking the 600y coyote shot IanHusaberg ! That's right around the range where most people think its an easy hit and then....its not.
For the suppressor, I'm waiting on the AAC Titan which should probably be here sometime before 2034. I'll eventually get around to having the QD muzzle brake put on all my barrels but I'm in no hurry.
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Sounds like someone needs a PLRF15
And practice the aim small, miss small for your 1 mile hit with a precision 22LR at 200 yards (or more). It'll punish you for even making a .2MIL error.
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The factory hornady match rounds shot terribly out of my 26 Inch barrel, but for now, I'm using virgin, unprepped brass for the load development. I saw the odd small ejector mark, so I suspect my load may be a little warm. The next time I go out, I'll be putting rounds over a chrony, so that'll give me an idea about ed/sd and MV.
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I meant what brand sorry. Really on the factory ammo? I'm getting 1/2 inch groups with the eld-m loads. @canuckistainia
Ah! Mine was just factory hornady match. I was searching for, but couldn't find factory hornady eld-m.
as for the brass I am using for luad development, lapua brass.
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Well Gentlemen and The German, Do you think the MRAD in 6.5 creed could take the Q "fix" rifle in accuracy? I think we all know it not going to win any awards in the weight department. What are your thoughts?
I know the MRAD is available to buy.
The FIX, not so much.
This isn't a pissing contest or my D$ck is bigger than your D$ck. (We know who wins in that department $). Or do we?
Maybe we can pit the MRAD against, the German's 20mm when he gets that too?
I know the MRAD is available to buy.
The FIX, not so much.
This isn't a pissing contest or my D$ck is bigger than your D$ck. (We know who wins in that department $). Or do we?
Maybe we can pit the MRAD against, the German's 20mm when he gets that too?
Has anyone used the ExRings on their MRAD? I'm considering a BORS, which necessitates switching to Barrett rings. If I get Barrett rings, the ExRings sound like a great way to add some extra range, Assumi9ng they aren't too tall or un-reliable.
Look long and hard at the Rinov Eagle before you get a BORS. EuroOptic sells both call and ask which will do more for you and is easier to use.
Anyone around here wish the MRAD had a bolt lock?
I know it's captured when you fold the stock. I'm talking about when it's unfolded.
I know it's captured when you fold the stock. I'm talking about when it's unfolded.
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I'm not a huge fan of the Rianov.... I'm sure there is nothing wrong with it, it just doesn't have the same appeal for me as the BORS
I do not. I can't see what would make it worth the weight, complexity, and cost.
IanHusaberg Id have to agree. I can't see a reason for a bolt lock in my applications. On another note.... Stand by for some load development with a new addition of a 260 barrel for my MRAD thanks to Ian!!
I do like the simplicity of the rifle. I think we all know it weighs and costs more than enough.
It would be nice if it had another position on the safety where it would lock up the bolt like other rifles. Safe-bolt lock/trigger safe, 1/2 safe bolt works/trigger safe, fire.
I can live with the rifle just fine the way it is and settle for a locked bolt with it being captured by the stock when closed.
Send me a Fix, if anyone ever actually gets one, and I'll tell you.
Short answer is, with a quality barrel and chambering, I would say yes for at least the first few rounds. The Tuskan Raider rifle is basically a super light weight hunting rifle/PRS hybrid. Where it will shine in weight it will be at a disadvantage in recoil (I doubt 6.5CM will matter, but that gun in a 300WM will be rough) as well as the barrel heating up much faster (assuming their pretty thin profile is what they are actually still using). I'd be curious as to how many rounds it takes for you to see fliers from the barrel heating up too much; I know I can pound 2 mags out of the MRAD and not notice.
It's the trade off between something heavier like the MRAD where the weight is the main CON against a super lightweight rifle that doesn't get any of the weight benefits (i.e. much less recoil and movement, heavier profile barrel).
As for the 20mm, well, I just have to hit the target anywhere because it basically destroys it, so my cone of accuracy is gigantic.
I bought a new Tika 6.5 and thats how I feel about the skinny SS barrel. Its a nice rifle and its available to buy. I'm going to have to agree with you about the barrel profile of the MRAD. You can shoot off 2 mags and it doesn't shift at all. The weight is a bonus of the rifle. I sold my 260 24" fluted. I'll be buying a new heavy barrel 260 next spring for the PRS season, for that reason.
You can't get a 6.5 MRAD barrel for <$1K. I wanted to try a Tikka/Gen2 PST and the New KRG Bravo stock.
I'll go with the 260 Heavy barrel in the spring.
I was just thinking about the pouches. What are your thoughts?
I got the 6.5 for 950
But I was slumming on gunbroker and apparently ran across one that wasn't a dealer and instead, a poor student that wanted to upgrade his raman noodle budget.
I have all fluted; I'm thinking that unless you want to go crazy and need to unload 3 magazines in a row (or can't hit anything with the first 25 or so shots ) that the heavy won't be much benefit over fluted.
But I was slumming on gunbroker and apparently ran across one that wasn't a dealer and instead, a poor student that wanted to upgrade his raman noodle budget.
I have all fluted; I'm thinking that unless you want to go crazy and need to unload 3 magazines in a row (or can't hit anything with the first 25 or so shots
) that the heavy won't be much benefit over fluted.
I got the 6.5 for 950
But I was slumming on gunbroker and apparently ran across one that wasn't a dealer and instead, a poor student that wanted to upgrade his raman noodle budget.
I have all fluted; I'm thinking that unless you want to go crazy and need to unload 3 magazines in a row (or can't hit anything with the first 25 or so shots
I'm adding weight to the rifle for PRS style events. Less recoil, easier to do free recoil style shooting when you can't get behind the rifle properly. Thought I'd try it. I never seam to find good deals on gunbroker. I wanted to see if the Heavy barrel was any more accurate over the fluted?
I don't know how much more accurate you can get than what they are currently doing for me.
Don't worry about weight unless you're using the Tuskan Raider rifle; look into the Hawkins position.
Don't worry about weight unless you're using the Tuskan Raider rifle; look into the Hawkins position.
Thanks for mentioning the Hawkins position. I just found the (Army?)Sniper training manual. It will be some nice reading while on vacation.
Tuskan raider rifle would be for hunting, not PRS(as advertised). MRAD in 260 will be for PRS. Tikka in 6.5 is for messing around while MRAD has 338 LM barrel lock'd and loaded!
Tuskan raider rifle would be for hunting, not PRS(as advertised). MRAD in 260 will be for PRS. Tikka in 6.5 is for messing around while MRAD has 338 LM barrel lock'd and loaded!
The first real review of the Tuskan raider rifle basically said the SR25 mags kill most handloads in 6.5 due to OAL (as we knew would happen when the mags were announced) and that you'll be at a disadvantage in PRS due to recoil even in 6.5 and its tiny butt pad.
Hi together,
i am German, living in Germany and i just got my new MRAD , flat dark earth, in .338 LM with 24" fluted barrel, and a conversion kit .308 Win 17" barrel.
The scope is a Swarovski DS 5-25x52p.
what ammo do you recommend? I didn zero the rifle yet. I want to do this next week. I want to use it mainly for hunting. What do you think about the RWS Speedtip pro?
And what zero deviation can be expected at 100 by a barrel change?
Thanks
Raik
i am German, living in Germany and i just got my new MRAD , flat dark earth, in .338 LM with 24" fluted barrel, and a conversion kit .308 Win 17" barrel.
The scope is a Swarovski DS 5-25x52p.
what ammo do you recommend? I didn zero the rifle yet. I want to do this next week. I want to use it mainly for hunting. What do you think about the RWS Speedtip pro?
And what zero deviation can be expected at 100 by a barrel change?
Thanks
Raik
I'm not even in the loop as to whats available in Germany as far as ammo. I'm sure its a pain in the ass to try and get some from the US, but do they sell Federal GMM for the 308? For hunting the RWS round in 308 will be fine, but unless you handload I'd just try the RWS because its available and RWS is quality ammo regardless.
For the 338, what is even available there?
If you take the barrel off and put a different caliber on, the ballistics are going to depend on the new caliber obviously. If you take your 308 barrel off, and put it back on, I've not noticed much change in POI. The only thing I've seen is it needing 1-2 rounds to knock everything together after a barrel change.
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