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I've been a pretty die hard 1911 guy for years, but I'm thinking about finally dipping my toes into the Glock pool. I like full size guns, so I'm going to look for a 19.
My question is, which generation seems to be the most liked? I know each one has some differences.
I may buy new, but if I find something decent used, I may go that route. I just need to figure out exactly what I'm looking for.
What features are liked and disliked between the different generations? And why?
I appreciate any input.
I think you might like the G45 MOS gen 5 better— it’s a 9mm and a cross between a G17 frame and G19 slide— you just have to feel the grip if you get lucky to find one!Get a G19.5 MOS and don’t look back.
IMHO, the poly striker pistols from CZ, HK, Sig, Walther, Beretta have eclipsed Glocks. .......
HAHAHA!!!I've been a pretty die hard 1911 guy for years, but I'm thinking about finally dipping my toes into the Glock pool. I like full size guns, so I'm going to look for a 19.
For me, it comes down to grip angle. Glock is different from your 1911, and will point different. If you get used to the Glock, then you will have to reacquaint yourself with the 1911 next session.
GLOCK 19 GEN 3
Best glock ever.
Better than anything before it and after it.
The Gen 3 is fantastic for all models.
The 19, 17, 26, etc..
Parts are readily available and accessories are infinitely more than any other model or make gun, even 1911 pistols.
3 things however, you should upgrade or buy separate in a Glock 19 Gen 3..
#1
Buy a "47021" (best) or "30274" (2nd best) "Glock Ejector" to replace your crappy 336 ejector that comes with your glock or glock parts kit if you're building. (worst ejector in history).
A 30274 costs far less than a 47021 but is still a big improvement over 336.
The 47021 is a more refined version of the 30274 and can cost around $50 bucks (havent checked lately) but im my opinion its worth it for top reliability.
The 30274 is great but if you want the best for home defense or carry go with 47021.
Its ejection patten is solid.
#2
Buy a "Apex Tactical Failure Resistant Extractor" for glock (you'll also want to buy a Non-LCI Spring Loaded Bearing to replace your regular Loaded Chamber Indicator Bearing - see #3).
#3
"Non-LCI Spring Loaded Bearing"
(a tiny black part that fits on the end of your extractor plunger/spring that works in conjunction with your Apex Extractor).
Replacing these 3 small parts ensure extraction and ejection are near perfect. Solves most if not any issue including stove pipes and jams. The next issues if any youd ever experience is your magazine feed. So go with glock mags or KCI mags (exact same steel core and polymer case as glock). 336 ejectors and glock oem extractors are garbage. Do they work? Yes, with poor weak erratic ejection and problematic extraction. Other than this the gen 3 operates fine.
There are other parts you can upgrade but its best to keep most stuff OEM until you get to know your weapon.
If you want to build your own glock I HIGHLY recommend a Polymer 80 PF940C (compact) frame kit from JSD Supply (cheapest price) and then buy your lower parts kit and find a complete gen 3 complete slide fully built.
Or buy an upper parts kit, slide, barrel and a guide rod (recoil spring).
With a drill press, some fret snips and a file you can build your own firearm.
..Hurry up though, the ATF just ruled on these 80% frames again and in June 2022 you'll no longer be able to build one without the hassle of ATF involvement. Any firearm built before this time still does not fall under serialization law unless transfered or sold. All lowers and gun parts will require sellers to serialize most parts and frames prior to sale and subject you to FFL check. Some of us like to build and not do any business with these world scum. Over 200,000 objections were signed against this ATF rule but they did it anyway.
I shoot a ton more than that, but it is virtually all handguns with the same of similar grip angle. 1911 just seems to fit me.This is a problem for the people who shoot one box of ammo a year.
I shoot a ton more than that, but it is virtually all handguns with the same of similar grip angle. 1911 just seems to fit me.
My 17 Gen 3 is nearing 4000 rounds and it has all the shit parts you rant about.
How much longer should I go before my first FTE (extract, eject, take your pick....)?
IME the only gen 3 part that needs to be shitcanned immediately is the near useless magazine release. Get a Glock OEM extended one and done.
Or buy a CZ P-10
For me, it comes down to grip angle. Glock is different from your 1911, and will point different. If you get used to the Glock, then you will have to reacquaint yourself with the 1911 next session.
Sig 320 or 365 for the win. I also like the Sprongfield XDm. I have sent a bunch of rounds through all 3 and never had an ejection or feeding problem, nor a failure to fire.
I also am a 1911 guy. My wife wanted a Flock so I bought one. THE BIGGEST NEGATIVE is the lack of a "real" safety. Be very careful when handling this firearm! I also have a Beretta 92S and feel it's a much better weapon as it's well made out of quality steel parts .You like finger grooves or not?
Gen 3 and gen 4 have finger grooves.
Adjustable back strap?
Gen 4 and gen 5 have a several different size back strap you can attach.
You like red dots?
Gen 4 and newer can be found with the MOS as an option on some.
Gen 5 has tapered corners at the muzzle.
They still use the stupid plastic sights.
I personally like the gen 4 G19.
I also am a 1911 guy. My wife wanted a Flock so I bought one. THE BIGGEST NEGATIVE is the lack of a "real" safety. Be very careful when handling this firearm! I also have a Beretta 92S and feel it's a much better weapon as it's well made out of quality steel parts .
THE BIGGEST NEGATIVE is the lack of a "real" safety. Be very careful when handling this firearm! I also have a Beretta 92S and feel it's a much better weapon as it's well made out of quality steel parts .
So basically you're guessing at how difficult it is to adjust to a Glock.
Got it.
just the fucked up grip angle that they picked.
I am curious why nobody has mentioned a Canik Mete SFT as an alternative? Mine has been 100% reliable over the 1500 rounds (all reloads) I have managed through it since picking it up in November. Its Optics ready (mine has a 407K) and the Trigger is really fantastic. I say that coming from a SA Loaded model 1911 with lots of trigger work. I much prefer it to the VP9 and the Sig 320. It disassembles with only a simple tool and has been very accurate. Might be worth looking into if you were thinking G19/17. Just my $.02. Good luck.
I am curious why nobody has mentioned a Canik Mete SFT as an alternative? Mine has been 100% reliable over the 1500 rounds (all reloads) I have managed through it since picking it up in November. Its Optics ready (mine has a 407K) and the Trigger is really fantastic. I say that coming from a SA Loaded model 1911 with lots of trigger work. I much prefer it to the VP9 and the Sig 320. It disassembles with only a simple tool and has been very accurate. Might be worth looking into if you were thinking G19/17. Just my $.02. Good luck.
They are certainly viable. I don't have any experience with them but the feedback from very knowledgeable users is fa
There is nothing wrong with P07 for sure! I debated hard about building one up with some CGW parts.Biggest reason I didn't end up buying one, although tempted, was the mag availability. I'm also in the crowd that waits quite a while until everything is figured out and supply chain isn't a problem.
With my mindset, after having handled them and the new M&P 2.0, I'd rather go the M&P route. But after handling @308pirate's P07 all done up, I'll probably just stick with CZ lol.
LOL It's so fucked up that someone can go from it to a CZ Shadow and continue recking people
It's just sight control and trigger control. Everything else is just noise. The difference in shootability between guns is really minor. Sure, on the extremes, bullseye, long range silhouette, there might be some differences, but if you are talking about A zone hits at speed, you should be able to adapt quickly.How many rounds does that guy fire a week?
Jerry Miculek could probably outshoot the average CZ shadow owner with a pawn shop revolver too
Lebron James could out play me on the court barefoot while I was wearing airjordans (or whatever the fancy basketball shoe is).
Fact is one is still a better tool, and skills are no doubt the most important aspect, any gun is better than no gun, but if you’re not dirt poor why not get the best equipment you can and eliminate that variable. Glocks are great for their job, a ship by the pallet gun for gov workers (many who are not “gun people”), but lots of way better platforms one can get if they have the freedom of choice and a few coins to rub together
But after handling @308pirate's P07 all done up, I'll probably just stick with CZ lol.
What does your SA weight come out to with the 18# spring? My best friend has the P07 Tac and it was pretty heavy at around 6.5# with stock springs. The SA pull was pretty crisp though out of the box so certainly shootable. He dropped in a MCarbo kit and it runs about 3.5# with that and is still 100% from a reliability standpoint. Either way I think the CZ P09/07's are great. I opted for the Canik only because I did not have a striker fired gun at all but have several DA/SA Steel frame guns.Actually, other than the CGW 18 lb hammer spring, it's mechanically 100% stock
What does your SA weight come out to with the 18# spring? My best friend has the P07 Tac and it was pretty heavy at around 6.5# with stock springs. The SA pull was pretty crisp though out of the box so certainly shootable. He dropped in a MCarbo kit and it runs about 3.5# with that and is still 100% from a reliability standpoint. Either way I think the CZ P09/07's are great. I opted for the Canik only because I did not have a striker fired gun at all but have several DA/SA Steel frame guns.
I agree with Turbotrout and 308pirate answered.
I’ll add the biggest “real” safety is the nut holding the gun. Other things are attempts to cover human screwups.
You mention the “quality steel” of another gun so I’m sure you have researched it and realized there are at least 3 separate safety features built into the gun, as well as even more safety built into the stored vs not stored energy in glocks striker design.
I like 1911s. I actually like most guns!
Except hipoints. I hate them but they always work.![]()
@TurboTrout
Dude! I might need one myself! Made in USA! They have a killer warranty also.
I have and used to carry a P228.I have two 226s and still greatly prefer any or all of my CZs in comparison.
Holy crap! True innovation! I just pre-ordered 9 of them.
Get a polymer 80, uses Glock parts, but isn’t as shitty as a stock Glock frame, more fun to build, higher quality, and no SN/4473 database records, because that shit is un American.
The GST-9 is the best 80 out there that I've found.
I need to find someplace I can get my hands on a CZ P-09. I like the fact you can switch them to SAO instead of DA/SA
A firing pin activated laser insert and about 100,000 trigger pulls will get you used to the DA trigger pull AND where the gun is pointed!The pistol is always DA/SA. There is no way to turn a P-09 (or P-07) into a single action only.
All the safety lever does is block the sear when the hammer is cocked and safety is on, something the decocker doesn't do. You can still use the pistol as DA/SA by disengaging the safety and lowering the hammer manually (like the CZ 75B) or leave it cocked with the safety on which blocks the sear.
The safety lever is not that great. It's not easily accessible like what you get in a 1911. It's best left with the decocker. Learn how to run a double action trigger. It takes man hands but it can be done.
I was mistaken. I misunderstood when I read the specs, and thought it could be converted. It is just a switch from decocker to a manual safety.The pistol is always DA/SA. There is no way to turn a P-09 (or P-07) into a single action only.
All the safety lever does is block the sear when the hammer is cocked and safety is on, something the decocker doesn't do. You can still use the pistol as DA/SA by disengaging the safety and lowering the hammer manually (like the CZ 75B) or leave it cocked with the safety on which blocks the sear.
The safety lever is not that great. It's not easily accessible like what you get in a 1911. It's best left with the decocker. Learn how to run a double action trigger. It takes man hands but it can be done.
I was mistaken. I misunderstood when I read the specs, and thought it could be converted. It is just a switch from decocker to a manual safety.
I probably would just run it decocked and practice the double action trigger.
You do not want a laser that lights up when the hammer drops. It's counterproductive to learn how to call your shots. There is a reason no USPSA Grand Master who also trains people uses them or recommend them.A firing pin activated laser insert and about 100,000 trigger pulls will get you used to the DA trigger pull AND where the gun is pointed!