Thinking of getting into the reloading game.

[HeavyAssault]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

 

[Stevo86]

Just go ahead and spend the money on an AutoTrickler v3 or v4. Money well spent

 

[338dude]

What type of shooting do you do and what calibers will you be reloading for this will help narrow down some suggestions

 

[Dogtown]

If you've got someone locally to guide you, then buy the best gear you can afford and go from there. Otherwise, if you're learning 100% on your own, I'd suggest the crawl/walk/run approach. Start with a single stage press so you can learn all of the ins and out of changing out dies properly. Use a beam scale and hand trickling to get the finer points of powder charges down. I promise you: as your skills and knowledge evolves, you'll have a better understanding of what gear will improve your loads. Learn how to play on a cheap Sears guitar and then when you're finally comfortable, move up to that Fender Stratocaster.

 

[Huskydriver]

Why are you reloading now and why a zero press?

 

[ma smith]

How many calibers and how many rounds per year and over the next 2-3 years to you expect to make?

 

[Dave62677]

Make sure u get some powder and primer first.

 

[HeavyAssault]

To try to answer some questions:
A) 30-06, 6.5CM, 45-70, .45ACP, .223/5.56, .300WM (Calibers I own which I could/would reload for at some point as needed)
B) Trying to learn the reloading process now cause I got too much free time and love having more anxiety trying to find stuff. ( )
C) Zero Press : I guess I mentally bought into the hype. Doesn't seem like it's the wrong press, just not the cheapest. I can afford it.

With that I know I'd need to get books, power, bullets, primers....but none of that can be used properly without the other equipment. I was hoping to start a generic list of equipment, price it out, then ask myself...."Do you really want to go down the rabbit hole?"

 

[338dude]

To try to answer some questions:
A) 30-06, 6.5CM, 45-70, .45ACP, .223/5.56, .300WM (Calibers I own which I could/would reload for at some point as needed)
B) Trying to learn the reloading process now cause I got too much free time and love having more anxiety trying to find stuff. ( )
C) Zero Press : I guess I mentally bought into the hype. Doesn't seem like it's the wrong press, just not the cheapest. I can afford it.

With that I know I'd need to get books, power, bullets, primers....but none of that can be used properly without the other equipment. I was hoping to start a generic list of equipment, price it out, then ask myself...."Do you really want to go down the rabbit hole?"

As mentioned earlier start with acquiring brass primers powder and bullets as they will be the hardest to find

 

[CK1.0]

To try to answer some questions:
A) 30-06, 6.5CM, 45-70, .45ACP, .223/5.56, .300WM (Calibers I own which I could/would reload for at some point as needed)
B) Trying to learn the reloading process now cause I got too much free time and love having more anxiety trying to find stuff. ( )
C) Zero Press : I guess I mentally bought into the hype. Doesn't seem like it's the wrong press, just not the cheapest. I can afford it.

With that I know I'd need to get books, power, bullets, primers....but none of that can be used properly without the other equipment. I was hoping to start a generic list of equipment, price it out, then ask myself...."Do you really want to go down the rabbit hole?"

I don't have a vendetta against the A419 Zero press or anything, but their price reflects the hype, that's it. It's arguably not even the best turret press, let alone single-stage.

Buy what you want, but looking at that list of cartridges, IMHO you'd be better off with a solid single-stage setup (or two) for precision stuff, and a Dillon for the pistol and AR stuff. (Don't worry... it'll still cost as much or more than a Zero press lol.)

FWIW, I load all my precision stuff on a sub-$100 Lyman Ideal and it kicks ass.

 

[HeavyAssault]

@CK1.0 So in a $$$ number what's that setup cost? Cause that's where I'm heading long before I feel like buying power and bullets.

 

[HeavyAssault]

If you're serious about reloading, this is the real deal right here.

And that's just part of the puzzle. Sure I've read quite a few posts about reloading. I'm just trying to say what does it cost (reasonably) to get into the game?? For a basic setup is it $1000?? Is it $500??? Cause I know the AutoTrickler is like $490, the AREA 419 is like $1200 (just as a reference)...I'd think I need scales, dies, and some other stuff.
I just need a good idea on equipment costs or at least an list of items. I can find prices on most things.

 

[Bigfatcock]

Buy a Dillon RL550 to start.
Get a quality digital or beam scale to weigh charges thrown by the Dillon.

Load away and be happy as fuck.

Alternative: Get a Redding T-7, quality Redding powder measure, and a quality scale.

Load away and be happy as fuck.

Honestly, Id start with the Dillon due to its versatility.

Redding T-7 is on sale at Midway USA for $379. Just ordered another one.

T-7 is on sale at Midsouth for $359.

 

[Mudburner]

If you've got someone locally to guide you, then buy the best gear you can afford and go from there. Otherwise, if you're learning 100% on your own, I'd suggest the crawl/walk/run approach. Start with a single stage press so you can learn all of the ins and out of changing out dies properly. Use a beam scale and hand trickling to get the finer points of powder charges down. I promise you: as your skills and knowledge evolves, you'll have a better understanding of what gear will improve your loads. Learn how to play on a cheap Sears guitar and then when you're finally comfortable, move up to that Fender Stratocaster.

While I agree with your idea of starting with simple, uncomplicated, easy-to-use reloading equipment, and learning the basics, I must disagree with your guitar analogy...

Starting off learning to play on a very cheap guitar, with possibly wrong strings, crappy quality, out of adjustment action, etc... may just put a guy off wanting to learn to play guitar! Apples to oranges here... but spending good money on a shitty guitar is just wrong advice, in my opinion. There are lots of decent guitars available for a beginner...

So now, with reloading equipment, your cheap guitar idea might be expressed by saying, "buy a Lee turret press", as some consider Lee reloading equipment to be low quality. I've used it for years. I would call it the Sears Craftsman quality of turret press. Usable. Serviceable. Low priced. I used Craftsman tools for years as an A&P aviation mechanic and while they are not Snap-On, they work. I would recommend Lee reloading products the same way.

However... I do absolutely agree with buy the best you can afford, whether a guitar, mechanic's tools, or reloading stuff. Expensive is not ALWAYS better. Just higher priced.

I apologize if I seem to be contrary or whatever; I just like reasonably priced, usable items.

And while I'm at it, I will add what I think are the basic reloading items needed to get started:

-brass, for all calibers you want to reload. For bulk ammo, like .223/5.56/.45acp etc. I like picking up range brass. People who use public ranges often leave their brass. It's like leaving money laying on the ground. Pistol brass has never been an issue using 1x fired.
-primers/powder are in demand and will be the most difficult to buy. Buy in bulk whenever you find it. It won't be there by end of day, so buy what you can afford... today's ass-rape prices may look like a bargain next year or two years from now...
-bullets are still available. Buy in bulk (with the caveat that you have to find the right bullet/brass/primer/powder combo recipe that your gun likes... Then buy in bulk. Starting out, we all have to experiment with hand load recipes, but some common loads are "tried & true".
-brass tumbler & media
-brass trimmer. May not need this until you start reloading a piece of brass multiple times.
-good press. I like a turret press where you can mount multiple dies and not have to remove/adjust/reinstall multiple dies for every different step, every different caliber. This is why I recommend the Lee turret press. One die disc holds 4 dies. Easy-peasy quick-change discs allow you to switch calibers instantly.
-good dies for each caliber, (primer punch/full length re-size die, bullet seating die, crimping die).
-good quality, comfortable to use primer seater. I really like the Co-ax. I hate the Lee hand primer.
-powder measure. For pistol, I determined what charge of my favorite powder I wanted, then made a simple scoop from an old .45 case. For rifle cartridges, I like the Lee accurate powder thrower. Then I got a RCBS Chargemaster Lite and wondered how I ever lived without it. It's slow, but fun to use.
-beam type powder weight scale. Again, Lee.
-good little funnel for charging cases.
I'm sure I've left something out.

Former USArmy 67T/67U/contractor. Chinooks are the Cadillac of US Army helicopters, but I loved the Huey most.

Edit to add:
-reloading books/manuals are ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL.

And again, while I'm at it... You can have a great deal of fun and save money using cast lead boolits, especially with bulk pistol loads, like .45acp. A lead melting/casting pot, and a good supply of lead are pretty easy to find. Soft lead is OK for a lot of stuff, like pistol cartridges, but higher pressure cartridges need harder lead. I need more education in this area, but I found a great deal on bulk cast lead .45acp boolits.

So... if you can go dig out all the lead from the local berm, you might consider recovering the lead & copper for re-use... Just an idea.

 

[ma smith]

@CK1.0 So in a $$$ number what's that setup cost? Cause that's where I'm heading long before I feel like buying power and bullets.

$5,000

Just my $0.02.

 

[Robert4]

A turret press is a great idea, especially if you are loading handgun stuff. A Redding T7 has a lot going for it.

Priming on a press is often slow and lacks feel. A good and held priming tool, or even better, a bench mounted priming tool.

A good balance beam scale and a good set of check weights.

A good powder funnel with inserts for various calibers. Universal funnels will work also.

Powder measure. Since you have a good budget, get a good one.

Quality digital caliper or two.

Headspace comparator. There are several and they are essential for bottle neck rifle loading.

Case trimmer and chamfering/deburring tools. A world of options here and getting power operated, quality stuff is well worth it.

 

[HeavyAssault]

@ma smith So just in the equipment pictured you have $5k??

 

[HeavyAssault]

A turret press is a great idea, especially if you are loading handgun stuff. A Redding T7 has a lot going for it.

Priming on a press is often slow and lacks feel. A good and held priming tool, or even better, a bench mounted priming tool.

A good balance beam scale and a good set of check weights.

A good powder funnel with inserts for various calibers. Universal funnels will work also.

Powder measure. Since you have a good budget, get a good one.

Quality digital caliper or two.

Headspace comparator. There are several and they are essential for bottle neck rifle loading.

Case trimmer and chamfering/deburring tools. A world of options here and getting power operated, quality stuff is well worth it.

Thank you!! There's a few things here I wouldn't have thought to buy.

 

[Dave62677]

I’m still using Lee Classic press for my precision round. Most of my brass came out with 0.001-0.002 neck runout.

 

[NiteQwill]

I have the Zero, several Dillons (650s and 550s), ATV4, ATV3, Amp and ampmate, etc

If I could choose one press to have for EVERYTHING I shoot (9, 45, 6, 6.5) it would be a Dillon. It has a huge learning curve but well worth it. I've been reloading on a Dillon for 15 years and I recommend them to new and seasoned reloaders.

The Zero is absolute luxury. The smoothest and prettiest press I own. It feels so good to use and I am never getting rid of it. But my COAX makes the same rounds.

If you thought guns were a money pit, be prepared to go down a new hole...

 

[acudaowner]

that pic needed candle light to set the mood with lighting a lava lamp and some Barry White music maybe . lol

 

[Taylorbok]

For the press I love my Dillon 750 but it's not a great place to start, and really only reason is my brass prep, like lots of people on this site is several operations that can all be done with one lever pull on the Dillon, If you are running a single step resizing process there is no sense for a Dillon
Stuff you will need
-Press
-Dies
-Lube
-Case tray
-Headspace comparator
-COAL comparator
-Calipers
-Trimmer,
-Chamfer/ De-burr
-Powder Scale/ measurer
-Funnel
-Priming Tool

I'm sure I am missing something. Everything on this list has a large price gap, you can pretty easily spend 5k on the premium stuff. If you don't want to pony up all at once I would do some research and spend money on the stuff you think matters. I hate trimming brass, Giraud trimmer FTW,

 

[Dogtown]

If you thought guns where a money pit, be prepared to go down a new hole...

100%

You can really spend a lot of money chasing precision. But looking back on 20+ years of reloading experience, I had to spend lots of years mastering the basics, honing my skills and building a solid foundation of knowledge and experience that I honestly don’t think you can short cut with just buying top of the line gear at the start.

Just looking back on dies alone. I started with Lee and RCBS, which worked just fine for my first 8 years or so. And then I realized I needed to experiment with bushing dies to better control neck tension and consistency. So I slowly replaced all of my FL dies with Redding S dies and built up quite a collection of bushings from Wilson, Redding, Whiddem, then even SAC. Then I started using mandrels to further refine the necks, so I also built up a collection of 21st Century mandrels. Further chasing precision and control, I started transitioning to breaking up every sizing step into its own operation using Body dies, Neck dies, etc. That felt like the damned pinnacle of perfection for about five years, and then I decided to try one SAC sizer die with the neck/shoulder bushing and integrated mandrel. Now fuck, everything is getting replaced.

Am I just never satisfied? Maybe. But one thing I know for sure is that at this point I know what I like and what works best for me. This progressive refinement process is really expensive but it has resulted in slow but steady progress for me in making very consistent ammo over the years.

 

[Rocketmandb]

There are a ton of little gadgets that you will need/want to get. There are a few major purchases and primary components. No one has an unlimited budget, so, if I were to prioritize what has been most important to me, it would be:

1) The press: the Zero is a really cool press. Is it 4x better than my Redding T7? No. While I'd love to have one, the cost is not justified. A Redding T7 is rock solid and will get most of the way there. Especially because...

2) Arbor press with LE Wilson Seaters: This was one of the most important changes I made to my reloading process. Even if I bought a Zero Press, I'd still use an arbor press because of the information it gives me, and the consistency it applies during seating. If one of two or three primary functions is taken away from the main press, that's even more of a reason not to go overboard on said press.

3) Autotrickler (V3 or V4): This dramatically speeds up the charging process and provides good accuracy at the same time.

4) Annealer: Consistent cases load to load is important. This helps there (and increases case life).

As an example, if I had ~$1700 to spend on a press and an annealer, I'd rather spend ~$1300 on the annealer (AMP) and ~$400 on a Redding T7 than the other way around.

 

[SalomonQST99]

Start with a good reloading manual. I have the Hornady 10th edition. Read the first part on reloading a couple of times to get the process down.

 

[Taylorbok]

as @Dogtown did I started with RCBS dies and slowly evolved the process. I tend to shoot one cartridge more than others at any given time so when I decide to make a change that's the one I start with to see if it's worth it. Expander mandrels are a must if you are chasing fine accuracy. I've found custom or even just fancier dies run way smoother but don't seem to make any better ammo. I think my next build is going to be a dasher so I will try the SAC die then.

@Rocketmandb I've been holding off on the arbour press for a long time now. I do think that will be my next upgrade.

 

[Dogtown]

FWIW, I tried a K&M arbor press with force monitor a long time ago and just wasn't a fan. Then last year I splurged on an AMP press hoping that would do the trick, but again, using inline seater dies hasn't really shown much of an improvement for me. Compared to my normal presses, the inline seater wasn't giving me a statistically significant improvement in consistency or runout.

However, as a measurement and statistical tool, the AMP press has been VERY useful in testing and evaluating brass prep steps to figure out where I should focus my efforts in order to create the most consistent brass possible. At this point, it's 100% a luxury for me and absolutely something that would have been completely wasted on me ages ago when starting out.

 

[alamo5000]

I know I'm going to get a press, most likely the Area 419 Zero. What's the basic, and advanced shopping list of required reloading equipment that will get me going?? I know there's tons of stuff out there, just want to understand a basic equipment setup. Then maybe what's the next level, say advanced, after getting the basics covered. Thanks all!!

People ask me this question from time to time (not online) and I always try to push them into some more specific questions or answers.

Keep in mind this might not be directed at you personally (even though it's your post), but maybe the next guy that sees this thread.

First off what are you reloading for? I am of the FIRM opinion that if you want to do ANY kind of center fire precision oriented shooting then it's well worth it. The second thing is if you are going to shoot ANY kind of volume then it is also worth it.

Next question back to the person is what calibers are you going to be reloading for and what platform will you be shooting from? If someone wants to shoot a ton of 9mm or 5.56 through a short barrel AR then a progressive setup is substantially better. Trying to load bulk 9mm on a Area 419 can be done but it's not ideal. Conversely if your game is precision rifle then the answers might be different.

Getting a brand new auto trickler and scale that can measure to .001 grains is cool and all, but for pistol shooting or bulk 5.56 or 300BLK it's overkill. Conversely for precision rifle it looks like a great investment.

In other words the primary focus of the reloader will determine what is actually needed (or the best fit) in the way of ancillary equipment.

Ammo can be loaded on a cheap Lee press with cheap dies. You can even get pretty good ammo that way, but if you really want to optimize your time and effort it will take more investment and possibly some trial and error.

 

[Huskydriver]

I hate single stages...I do not have time for that way to slow.

I load all rifle except 223 on Dillon 650/750.

All pistol and 223 on rl1100.

I throw powder precision loads with an autotrickler v3.

@padom has many threads on his set ups and I basically have mirrored his stuff and honestly I have found nothing faster that yeilds better ammo but outfitting a Dillon with all the mods to make your life easier is pricey. With the cost of powder and primers I'm not sure I would even try unless you really want to control your ammo to a specific bullet /load.

Time is money and I don't have time spending 6 hours to make 100 rounds of ammo on a single stage or turret press lol

 

[Bacarrat]

The equipment is easy enough to get. I wouldn't consider reloading until you can at least get a good supply of primers and powder of whatever you want to reload.

 

[CK1.0]

@CK1.0 So in a $$$ number what's that setup cost? Cause that's where I'm heading long before I feel like buying power and bullets.

I think I'm in the neighborhood of maybe ~3k? ...maybe a little more, maybe a little less, I got most of my stuff pre-COVID... and I'm in the market for either an AT3/4 and/or a Matchmaster so that goalpost is still moving lol.

As far as what that would cost now IDK? That's hard to nail down...

I would say buy once cry once with most shit because they're tools and shitty tools suck. That said, some fancy things that might catch your eye aren't all they're cracked up to be... and remind yourself that maybe you can put that $$$ to better use somewhere else. There are quite a few snake-oil salesmen in the reloading gear game (more than other aspects of this sport), $600 dies, $600 priming tools, etc, be weary.

There are like 5 great single-stage presses that are $200 or less, so I wouldn't blow my budget on something like that until maybe much later after I had everything else. Most guys will tell you there are like 5 other things that might be more important than the press... starting with components: you need to buy in bulk and build an assembly line, you don't want a nice rig and nothing to load.

My main point is that there's no real way to do this cheaply, but you don't have to go broke either.

Honestly, if I could start over again, or for anyone new to reloading, a Dillon 550 can be put to good use in just about anyone's reloading room, and with all those cartridges you mentioned I'd look hard at one of those. I'm not sure I've ever heard of a single guy who's lost a dime on one or didn't regret getting rid of one, shit, it's cheaper than many of the fancy gadgets people will try to convince you that you can't live without.

 

[Bigfatcock]

I think I'm in the neighborhood of maybe ~3k? ...maybe a little more, maybe a little less, I got most of my stuff pre-COVID... and I'm in the market for either an AT3/4 and/or a Matchmaster so that goalpost is still moving lol.

As far as what that would cost now IDK? That's hard to nail down...

I would say buy once cry once with most shit because they're tools and shitty tools suck. That said, some fancy things that might catch your eye aren't all they're cracked up to be... and remind yourself that maybe you can put that $$$ to better use somewhere else. There are quite a few snake-oil salesmen in the reloading gear game (more than other aspects of this sport), $600 dies, $600 priming tools, etc, be weary.

There are like 5 great single-stage presses that are $200 or less, so I wouldn't blow my budget on something like that until maybe much later after I had everything else. Most guys will tell you there are like 5 other things that might be more important than the press... starting with components: you need to buy in bulk and build an assembly line, you don't want a nice rig and nothing to load.

My main point is that there's no real way to do this cheaply, but you don't have to go broke either.

Honestly, if I could start over again, or for anyone new to reloading, a Dillon 550 can be put to good use in just about anyone's reloading room, and with all those cartridges you mentioned I'd look hard at one of those. I'm not sure I've ever heard of a single guy who's lost a dime on one or didn't regret getting rid of one, shit, it's cheaper than many of the fancy gadgets people will try to convince you that you can't live without.

This X 847,963!!

 

[Krob95]

Forster coax press: 400

Autotrickler V3/V4: 1200? Too lazy to look

Henderson Trimmer: 750ish or something? For the self powered one. Not the pheasant version you use with a drill.

Good dies like SAC, Whidden, Redding, RCBS Matchmaster: 150-600 depending on set.

Amp Annealer: 1500. This is entirely optional as you can achieve good results with a 200 dollar annealez flame annealer. If you have money to blow, hands down the AMP is the way to go.

Take the money you will save not buying a Zero and get the AMP or ever just the Henderson trimmer. Time saved on a process is invaluable. And trimming fuckin sucks.

 

[Bigfatcock]

$439 for a hand drill operated case trimmer?

Buy a CH4D case trimmer. Self contained and not run by a cordless drill.

The RCBS trim pro 2 is also really good but a tad slower.

 

[Oryx]

If you thought guns were a money pit, be prepared to go down a new hole...

Now that's the set up ... a lot of money in that 6' of bench space - but it cost so much he can't afford the lights and electricity to see it!

Just a joke ... we all know you can afford it! Great looking set up.

 

[Huskydriver]

Forster coax press: 400

Autotrickler V3/V4: 1200? Too lazy to look

Henderson Trimmer: 750ish or something? For the self powered one. Not the pheasant version you use with a drill.

Good dies like SAC, Whidden, Redding, RCBS Matchmaster: 150-600 depending on set.

Amp Annealer: 1500. This is entirely optional as you can achieve good results with a 200 dollar annealez flame annealer. If you have money to blow, hands down the AMP is the way to go.

Take the money you will save not buying a Zero and get the AMP or ever just the Henderson trimmer. Time saved on a process is invaluable. And trimming fuckin sucks.

Gross @Krob95 .... 1 round at a time.... That's peasant* work. I expect more from you Dillon or gtfo guy

 

[Krob95]

Convince me that good ammo comes off a Dillon and maybe, just maybe. Also I have one seating die. I don't want to buy another lol

 

[NiteQwill]

Convince me that good ammo comes off a Dillon and maybe, just maybe. Also I have one seating die. I don't want to buy another lol

I mean, it can. With a lot of fiddling. With that said, I loaded 6mm on my 550 for a bit but it doesn't play well with SAC dies. My SDs went to 10... Still okay for PRS.

Went back to my Zero, and SDs came back to 3.

I'm also a sucker... Using the Zero makes everything feel so good (with your clothes on).

 

[Huskydriver]

Convince me that good ammo comes off a Dillon and maybe, just maybe. Also I have one seating die. I don't want to buy another lol

Bro...... You can... Quit being a pleb

 

[MarkyMark007]

I would say that you first need to read reloading manual, maybe two of them. but not tables of charges for calibers, but manual about reloading proces.
because with this basic knowledge, you will learn what the reloading proces is and you will get quality informations about everything about reloading.

only 0,01% people here has proper and real quality informations about reloading proces. be one of us, not one of 99,99% of retards.

 

[HeavyAssault]

I really appreciate all the advice and feedback. I needed a reality check as to how much $$$ was going into a reloading setup before supplies (bullets/cases/primers/powder). If getting equipment going is a $2k+ setup it's not a problem really, I can afford getting the equipment. I don't have any real range facilities at the moment to enjoy this aspect of shooting.
I'm still going to do some more reading and get a few manuals. Read, read, read, and learn some more. Thanks all!!

 

[CK1.0]

Try not to let this stuff overwhelm you, both the details and the dollar amounts... We all get deep in the weeds from time to time, but in truth, it's not nearly as complicated as some (including me) make it out to be.

 

[Mudburner]

I suggest identifying what particular equipment you want (you started that process here) then wait patiently for deals to pop up on used equipment, here in the marketplace, online, Gunbroker, pawn shops, etc.

Nothing says you have to purchase new, at retail prices. Presses, dies, etc are usually pretty well made and can last a very long time.

 

[KnowNothing256]

OP, here's a list of items I put together for a friend of mine a while back, no prices but some discussion on what to get and what to skip. There's probably other stuff not on the list, but it's a good starting point. My best single piece of advice for reloading is to decide in advance what your accuracy/precision goals are before you start. Processes can always be tinkered with and improved until the day you die, but many juices just aren't worth the squeeze in my opinion. Websites (including this one) will tell you you can achieve SDs of 3 fps and 1/4 MOA groups with a "good load" but mostly that is unrealistic, and chasing it (esp when you simply don't need that level of accuracy for your intended use) will just lead to frustration and discouragement. Great time to get into reloading if you can find powder and primers, though, since factory ammo is so dang expensive now!

Press: Turret press
I won't weigh in on which to get, but I don't agree with the folks that say to run a single stage first. Dies aren't that hard to set up (despite the odd person here or there who manages to screw it up), just follow the instructions. You can run a turret like a single-stage if you want, this is basically what I do, but it's nice to just switch a whole turret out to change calibers.

Powder Measure and Scale: Auto-dispensing with digital scale
I won't tell you which to get, but I'll say that it takes more than just a top-of-the-line powder measure to get low SDs. If you're shooting at steel at moderate/long-ish ranges, I'd hesitate to buy something more expensive than the RCBS Chargemaster 1500 Combo or the Hornady equivalent; an SD of 10 won't take you off the plate. Shooting F-Class or ELR is a different story.

Decapping Die: Lee Decapping Die
Might seem silly to have this when the full-length die does the same thing, but it’s not. You can remove primers then clean the cases before sizing; cleans the primer pocket and avoids damage from grit, etc., to the sizer die (although cleaning the primer pocket isn't necessary). It'll also let you deprime cases if you need to break it down for some reason, you never know what minor mistake you'll make and have to undo. Also, super cheap. Buy a spare decapping rod, a broken one will shut you down.

Sizing Die: Full Length
Lots of good options out there, and people get fantastic results with even Lee or Hornady dies. If you really want to do the reloading game for the long haul, I'd recommend going a bushing die where you can adjust neck tension while still getting FL sizing; the SAC die is the top of the line but wicked expensive, and LE Wilson dies are also great choices. Hard to screw this up, basically, but don't get a neck sizing die and only size necks.

Neck Expander: 21st Century Shooting Expander Body Die w/ TiN or Black Carbide Turning Arbor
If you don't use a bushing die, I'd recommend a mandrel setup to set final neck tension. You FL size to slightly under desired neck inside diameter (typically 0.004-6" under loaded diameter), then open it back up 0.002-3" right before seating. Get a treated mandrel, either nitride or carbide. Stainless is for the birds.

Seating Die: Micrometer Seating Die
A few options out there, I think the Redding one is probably a poor choice. SAC makes a crazy expensive one, Forster, Whidden and I think LE Wilson make more reasonably priced ones. You want the micrometer, trust me.

Case Gauge: Case Length Headspace Gauge
Used only rarely, but useful if you run into issues with your sizing. Basically tells you if a sized case is too long/short at the shoulder, too chubby (resize more fully), or just right. I’d consider this optional, I didn’t buy it until after I couldn’t get my cases to behave properly, and it didn't even fix my problem. I'll never buy another.

Bullet Seating Gauge: Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator w/ Insert
Used with calipers, this measures OAL with a seated bullet at the ogive. More consistent than measuring from the bullet tip. The Hornady one is cheap and effective, others are good and more expensive.

Bullet Seating Depth Gauge: Hornady LnL OAL Gauge
This can be used to determine OAL at the lands (where the bullet hits the rifling) for a given rifle and bullet (should be independent of properly sized brass). I’d consider this very optional; there’s a few other techniques using your bolt with the firing pin removed or just the bare barrel that work just as well, albeit slower. I hear mixed results on using this gauge, I own one and never use it.

Priming Tool: Press-Mounted, Bench-Mounted, or Hand Priming Tool
I use the APS hand priming tool from RCBS (love it), but they don't make it anymore. Take your pick, but it's nice to be able to prime cases while watching TV instead of locked to the bench.

Case Prep: A motorized one with multiple stations (trim, inside chamfer, outside chamfer, deburr and/or primer pocket reaming)
Do not do case prep by hand using individual hand tools. Do not. There are cool tools such as the Giraud Tri-Way trimmer that do three of these steps together (trim and I/O chamfer), I'd probably go ahead and get that if I was starting all over.

Case Cleaning: Opinions vary
I personally love wet tumbling with stainless media, but there are downsides. Some like wet tumbling with no media, some prefer ultrasonic, some like dry tumbling. Pros and cons to each, but I can say that I've not had great results with ultrasonic. Many of the downsides of wet tumbling, but slower if you're doing a lot of brass, and I honestly never did get the brass as clean as I wanted (not remotely). Others have had more success.

Case Loading Block: RCBS Universal Case Loading Block or similar
Economical, universal design, solid, stackable. Buy several.

Bullet Puller: Frankford Arsenal Impact Bullet Puller (or similar)
Simple and effective, for when you make an inevitable mistake (also required for that pinless-bolt technique I mentioned). I stuffed a paper towel down in the end to keep bullet tips undamaged. Note: There are other "collet puller" designs that grab the bullet and pull it out, but they often damage the jacket. You can tune them to avoid that sometimes. I ended up needing to get a collet puller for my 22BR setup; I think virgin brass combined with lighter bullets meant there wasn't enough inertia for the bullet to come out.

Powder Funnel: Satern Powder Funnel or similar
A bit expensive and high-end, but very clean, no powder hang-ups, sits solidly on the case, and prevents static buildup. I love mine, and I own several in different calibers.

Calipers: 6" or larger digital
These don’t have to be fancy, in my opinion, but I wouldn't mind a legit Mitutoyo or Starrett. My cheap digital ones work fine (although would I know if they weren't? You can always use a decent bullet to verify). No need for a micrometer but they're cool. If you start trying to hot-rod your cartridges (not recommended for a new reloader), you'll want a blade micrometer to check case web growth. Don't do this anytime soon.

Case Lube: Hornady One Shot or lanolin
Never had any problems, and miles more convenient than hand-applying or rolling. Get a shoebox and roll cases gently side to side while spraying to evenly apply; spray at an angle to get a little in the necks if you want, or don't if you have a carbide/nitride expanding mandrel. If you're doing magnum cases you might want to use lanolin, it's more of a pain but some have had issues getting cases stuck in their dies when sizing magnum cases. Or when they under-apply lube, but that's true of any lube type.

Miscellaneous
Spray air: gunpowder gets everywhere eventually
Dustpan: same
Paintbrush: small square tip, also for cleaning up powder
Tiny scoop: powder dispensers occasionally overshoot powder charges, some dump the whole thing back into the hopper but I just remove the excess
Cartridge organization: I use Lapua boxes with big blue painter's tape to mark my load info, very important if doing a ladder but nice to know always if you have more than one recipe you're working with
Other organization: Powders and primers shouldn’t live next to each other, and you want good lighting and sorting of all the odds and ends. Label everything that might need it; putting the wrong bullet in a load you think you know can destroy your rifle or worse.

 

[granite wagon]

Try not to let this stuff overwhelm you, both the details and the dollar amounts... We all get deep in the weeds from time to time, but in truth, it's not nearly as complicated as some (including me) make it out to be.

This!!!

 

[HeavyAssault]

Try not to let this stuff overwhelm you, both the details and the dollar amounts... We all get deep in the weeds from time to time, but in truth, it's not nearly as complicated as some (including me) make it out to be.

Well it's like my first day of High School French......it was my last.

Seriously though I really appreciate the discussion and points everyone provided. I tend to have a functional mind versus a book learning mind. You can teach me something but until I'm getting my hands dirty does any of it make any sense. So I'll hunt down some books to get the gears turning. Thanks to all who replied!!

 

[Huskydriver]

I would say that you first need to read reloading manual, maybe two of them. but not tables of charges for calibers, but manual about reloading proces.
because with this basic knowledge, you will learn what the reloading proces is and you will get quality informations about everything about reloading.

only 0,01% people here has proper and real quality informations about reloading proces. be one of us, not one of 99,99% of retards.

You are in the 99%....

Did you ever read up where that zco factory was reading rainbow?

 

[Shoots 700's]

How many rounds do you even plan on shooting a year?

 

[Mudburner]

Since I'm cheap charlie, I want to add that reloading blocks (those things with all the holes that hold your brass casings upright) are a good idea. Since I'm cheap, I simply dug out of the trash all the .45acp plastic cartridge holders (from boxes of 50 rds) I could find and these make excellent brass holders. People buy a box of 50rds and throw this stuff away, thinking it useless. Just another suggestion. Those plastic things will organize your brass neatly in groups of 50 and never cost you anything. Save as many as you can get. I re-use lots of stuff. Brass is expensive, so please consider picking up 1x fired range brass for your bulk reloads, such as AR/.45acp/.40/9mm/.308 fodder. For precision loads, it pays to use the best brass you can get, hopefully all from the same mfg/lot...

 

[Chickentoast]

Really depends how much you shoot. I actually enjoy the rifle component selection / barrel and chamber specs / setup and dialing the load more than the actual trigger pulling. I have spent entire days driving to the mountains, hiking a target out 2K yards, getting set up, only to shoot 10-20 rounds. So, I'm happy getting each piece of brass perfect, measuring powder with multiple scales, and a single-stage press. Tedious and takes forever, but I enjoy it.