Gunsmithing Thinnest firearms coating ?
- Thread starter CHEYTAC
- Start date
you could try wd 40 its a decent lubricant cheap and easy to find spray on wipe off no stink no pinch no filmy residue build up . been using it for 20 years on tools and no rust , use it on my guns now a days as an alternative to rem oil or other more expensive products .
-
are you talking a ( manufactured surface treatment ) or a ( thinnest Lubricant ) ?
-
Thinnest Lube, is just No Lube . 'Ronsonal' Lighter Fluid . just douche trigger groups and blow them out with air . Ronsonol also decreases and cleans surface, and fast evaporates .
.
Last edited:
Please do not do this. While WD40 is good for some things (like as a cutting fluid for aluminum) it's terrible as a lubricant for firearms. The residue WILL turn to a varnish-like substance over time. I can't count how many guns I've seen over the years that were gummed up by this crap. I learned this lesson myself back in the early 80s when I finally figured out why my Marlin Glenfield 60 quit working. Getting that cleaned up was no fun.
-
I never had a AR TG. get rusty before ? . His Trigger Group must have been pretty neglected to get all rusty ?
Was it just abandon neglect , or firing corrosive Chicom ammo from x39 upper and storing but never cleaning ?
.
it may and you could be correct , I know I have my grandfathers tool set and he used wd40 on them all his life well all the years since 56 since he used it and they looked good so did I and none of them have gumed up with anything maybe those you have seen did not use it and wipe them down . people are lazy and sloppy when in a hurry . I find it hard to buy that an item made for nasa not to produce the effects you describe creates it . but stranger things have happened . well , I will know in 20 years if that is the case or not .
He is the story as it was told to me ,
The AR was fairy new and never been used outside of the range , its been shot suppressed most of the time. The suppressor was cleaned with brake and let dry for 30 min. When he fired it after 30 min it smoked like a muzzle loader, it did this for 3 shots. He said smoke came out from around the BCG each time as well. 4 days later he noticed the trigger had rust on it. When he brought it to me the whole gun had to be dissembled down to the lower magazine release had surface rust on it , I mean ever part that was not aluminum had surface rust.
I am not a chemist but some bad juju went on when that left over brake clean vaporized when it was fired.
The AR was fairy new and never been used outside of the range , its been shot suppressed most of the time. The suppressor was cleaned with brake and let dry for 30 min. When he fired it after 30 min it smoked like a muzzle loader, it did this for 3 shots. He said smoke came out from around the BCG each time as well. 4 days later he noticed the trigger had rust on it. When he brought it to me the whole gun had to be dissembled down to the lower magazine release had surface rust on it , I mean ever part that was not aluminum had surface rust.
I am not a chemist but some bad juju went on when that left over brake clean vaporized when it was fired.
Dang I would get his lungs checked also that's just like welding after using brake clean big no no .
From the reading I've done as well as my limited experiences with it, GunKote is very thin. I've done an entire Tikka bolt with it and it stayed about the same feel. They already feel like they are on ball bearings so it could really only get worse. No change, no gummy feel.
I coated my 700 bolt with it, really seemed to slick it up
Depending on what brake cleaner he used, that stuff is chlorinated....
BOESHIELD T-9. It was developed to coat the inner surfaces of airframes used in marine environments. A friend who does marine construction in salt water sprays it on the ends of galvanised bolts he has to cut. Another product that would work is MILITEC-1. When applied properly the firearm surfaces are completely dry when cured. I use it on pocket pistols where conventional lubes are lint magnets. If sweat won't make a pistol rust nothing will!
IIRC a friend who played around at Crane...for his entire career...said KG GunKote was the thinnest of the coatings available and was what he used.
My vote is mil com. MC 2500, MC TW 25 B, MC 3000 all have specific features. If I get a new/ build something all metal parts get coated inside and out everything and wiped down will help with scratching on the exterior of the metal parts. The trigger groups the twb grease after and the surfaces have already been coated and wiped off as necessary. The Mc 3000 is for storage (fire ready for years) or stuff that needs grease like some parts like my M1's etc.. military uses that for gatling guns etc. But they clean and lubricate often not the reason to use it. I have used other products that is my preferred I would use used motor oil if necessary.
I understood him to mean a permanent coating, such as cerakote, dura coat etc... not grease/oil.
In that regard, I really like Magnalube G
Hi,
Cerakote microslick is approximately .25 mils.
KG Gunkote (1200 series) is approximately 14 microns.
Sincerely,
Theis
Cerakote microslick is approximately .25 mils.
KG Gunkote (1200 series) is approximately 14 microns.
Sincerely,
Theis
I read a firearms PSA about 15 years ago that warned about chlorinated brake cleaner attacking some steels. Absolutely, only use the non-chlorinated stuff. I'd also recommend wiping down or flushing with denatured alcohol, drying completely then applying a suitable penetrating lube to protect from moisture.
Last edited:
