Thoughts on a custom build for a newb...

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Boltergeist

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Minuteman
Aug 24, 2014
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#1
Just looking to get a few thoughts on a build I am considering. This will be my first rifle. I will be using this solely for killing paper terrorists. No hunting. Before anyone says anything, I know that this is overkill for a newer shooter. My thoughts are that I would like to get a rifle that I can really learn, with a cartridge that can go the distance. I don't want to get something that I may outgrow a few years from now, having to learn a new platform, or possibly cartridge all over again. So aside from it being more expensive than most would recommend for a newer shooter, what do you think?

Was planning on going with a custom action, probably BAT HR
Bartlein Barrel - any suggestions on length or contour? Weight isn't a huge concern. Threaded?
Any suggestions on a trigger?
Really liking the idea of a chassis system, specifically the XLR Carbon. Any downsides?
Looking for optic =<$1200 - Viper PST or Burris XTR II

Leaning really heavily towards 7MM Rem Mag at the moment. Planning on reloading, but I like the ability to buy in a store if need be. Seems like there are some decent projectiles available in 7MM and you can't beat the ballistics for an off-the-shelf round. .300WM is close, but the performance seems to be the same, with more recoil and shorter barrel life. I do like the idea of a big bore round and having a long action for versatility down the road. Have considered doing something like a .284 Shehane or 6.5x.284. Seems like they may be a little more work than I'd prefer though.

Please be nice;)(not really)
 
#2
Definitely overkill. I would go with either 260 with 24-26" with 1:10 twist barrel or 308 224-24" with 1:11 twist barrel. Both easy to reload for with plentiful product, at least at this time. You'll need a reliable scope and other gear. Good luck and have fun!
 
#3
sib1948 said:
Definitely overkill. I would go with either 260 with 24-26" with 1:10 twist barrel or 308 224-24" with 1:11 twist barrel. Both easy to reload for with plentiful product, at least at this time. You'll need a reliable scope and other gear. Good luck and have fun!
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Thanks for the input. Just curious, are you suggesting the other two caliber's because they are less expensive, or is there a different reason? Can you do .260 in a long action? I'd prefer to go that route, if possible. Also, are you saying that the two optics I'm leaning towards aren't reliable/recommended? They seem to be the best options without going to $2500+. Looking for FFP, decent zoom and zero stop.
 
#4
Cheaper to shoot, less punishing on the shooter, longer barrel life.

Lots of good reasons to go with a short action rifle and caliber. And then later, if you really want/need it, build the long action rifle. .260/.308 will reach out to 1200 yards. How often do you get to shoot that far?

I have a Viper PST 6-24x FFP on my .308. I like it. And the combo did work to 1200 yards.
 
#5
I cant say that Ive seen anything other than hunting rounds on the shelf for 7RM. I think barrel life in a RM would not be better than a WM. A mag caliber would be better for 1000+ shooting, plenty of short action calibers will do fine work to a 1k yards. If your wanting something to put in a long action, look at 284, 280, 6.5x55 even a 30-06.
 
#6
There's nothing "overkill" about buying the right equipment the first time. What the forum needs from you is what you would like to accomplish and what your budget is. Saying you want a custom rifle built and going to slap a PST onto it is a bit unusual. If you want to stretch the legs and be accurate, especially when you're talking about magnum cartridges, you need a durable optic that's up to the task. Vortex Razors are the scopes you should be looking at, with the Steiner T5Xi line being released soon another potential candidate in the "quality but not stupid expensive" FFP category.

I highly recommend you start out with a chambering that is commonly found with match ammunition, and at the same time if you're on a budget you don't want that to be so expensive it becomes too costly to feed it. An excellent round to start out with is the 6.5 Creedmoor. Hornady has some excellent factory match offerings, it's easily found online and/or in sporting goods stores, and has pretty good brass for you to build up your reloading base as well. Performance downrange is very good, and 1200yd shots are easily within reach once you get your wind calling skills down.

Actions, barrels, stocks, etc... That will come after you figure out what you really want to do. Don't sell a short action short on performance, and it's a lot cheaper to expend 43gr of power per shot than 55-60+ on the magnums. Unless a serious competitor, you will never gain the advantage of the higher velocities. Remember also, just because you have a short action doesn't mean you can't step into the SAUM category to really reach out there and put a hole in a piece of paper...

Welcome to the Hide. You've got a lot of research ahead of you...
 
#7
I would go either with 308 or 6.5 creedmoor. With the availability of factory match ammo, long barrel life, low recoil, cheaper reloading I think they are a win win. Go with a 24in heavy barrel, I have the Ax chassis, don't have any time behind the chassis you are looking at. Bat makes a good action, I would hesitate to go with any of the custom actions. I just received my stiller spectre built rifle and it shoots .261-.461 groups with factory 168gr ammo. I will supply pics if needed.... I'm not down talking bat, just saying buy what your able to get without the long wait, they will all shoot great. You can get a 308 in a la if you wish, it would give you the ability to upgrade in the future if needed.


As far as optics look in the classifieds section, you can find a slightly used optic for a great price. You can probably buy a better optic for around the same money as the scopes you mentioned.
 
#8
I'm kind of in the same place as you, I've been shooting pistol and AR for a while and am looking to develop my precision rifle skills. I decided on .308 win do to ammo availability and decent range, (I don't plan to or have much of a chance to get outside of 1000 yds). I suggest two things;

First, check out the "Sniper 101" series on You Tube, lots of good info on selecting caliber, rifle, optics in plain english.

Second, develop your choice using a spread sheet to compare cost/benefit. Side by side comparisons are helpful. For instance I recently selected my rifle build choosing between starting with a Remington-700 and a custom action. I had a $3,000.00 budget, less the optic. In the end it only cost about $300.00 more to go with a custom action when you took in the expense of the gunsmiths labor to true up a production rifle. I ended up with a Stiller action, Bartlein barrel and Huber trigger, laid into a Bell & Carlson stock for only a little more than a stock rifle re-worked to be a precision weapon. I'm topping mine with a Bushnell HDMR right now but considering a U.S. Optics, ST-10 TPAL.
 
#9
Sonic Crack said:
I cant say that Ive seen anything other than hunting rounds on the shelf for 7RM. I think barrel life in a RM would not be better than a WM. A mag caliber would be better for 1000+ shooting, plenty of short action calibers will do fine work to a 1k yards. If your wanting something to put in a long action, look at 284, 280, 6.5x55 even a 30-06.
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Don't forget the 270. Made a caribou kill at 600 yards with a 270 on the north slope of Alaska. My long range odyssey started with the 270, and it was accurate to boot! I now have a 7mm-08 and a 7mm mag. There are so many calibers to choose from..........and so little time. LOL! Have fun.
 
#10
Boltergeist said:
Just looking to get a few thoughts on a build I am considering. This will be my first rifle. I will be using this solely for killing paper terrorists. No hunting. Before anyone says anything, I know that this is overkill for a newer shooter. My thoughts are that I would like to get a rifle that I can really learn, with a cartridge that can go the distance. I don't want to get something that I may outgrow a few years from now, having to learn a new platform, or possibly cartridge all over again. So aside from it being more expensive than most would recommend for a newer shooter, what do you think?

Was planning on going with a custom action, probably BAT HR
Bartlein Barrel - any suggestions on length or contour? Weight isn't a huge concern. Threaded?
Any suggestions on a trigger?
Really liking the idea of a chassis system, specifically the XLR Carbon. Any downsides?
Looking for optic =<$1200 - Viper PST or Burris XTR II

Leaning really heavily towards 7MM Rem Mag at the moment. Planning on reloading, but I like the ability to buy in a store if need be. Seems like there are some decent projectiles available in 7MM and you can't beat the ballistics for an off-the-shelf round. .300WM is close, but the performance seems to be the same, with more recoil and shorter barrel life. I do like the idea of a big bore round and having a long action for versatility down the road. Have considered doing something like a .284 Shehane or 6.5x.284. Seems like they may be a little more work than I'd prefer though.

Please be nice;)(not really)
Click to expand...


My suggestion would be to go with a .308/6.5mm switch barrel setup. Pick what ever 6.5 caliber tickles your fancy. Reason I suggest a 308 is to help teach you to really learn to read wind and you will get a lot of practice life from the 308 barrel. Weight not may be an issue but think about balance more then weight. Hang a 24'' MTU contour off a Carbon Elite stock and I bet you won't like it. I like traditional style stocks that are bedded, never been a chassis fan. With that said I run a 23'' M24 contoured barrel with a folding TF1 stock. The folding stock balances the weight out well and even though the gun is 16.5lbs, it doesn't feel like it because it so balances well.

As far as glass, for $1250 you can get the Steiner 4-16 from Euro Optics right now. I've had multiple different scopes in the mid/high range and for that money, NOTHING can beat that deal right now. I'm telling you, do yourself a favor and grab the Steiner over the Vortex, the glass is great and the turrets are really nice as well.
 
#11
Goatman007 said:
Don't forget the 270. Made a caribou kill at 600 yards with a 270 on the north slope of Alaska. My long range odyssey started with the 270, and it was accurate to boot! I now have a 7mm-08 and a 7mm mag. There are so many calibers to choose from..........and so little time. LOL! Have fun.
Click to expand...

My opinion is, there are better options than a 270. Other, more common calibers have a MUCH larger selection for components. Not to mention, factory match grade ammo
 
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#12
Wow! Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try to address the above questions.

Budget is around $4000 for the rifle, including optics. This also doesn't include other needed accessories for shooting, hand loading etc.

Obviously I won't be shooting out to 1000m right away, but I do want something that is more than capable. Again, I don't want to be forced to switch cartridges/rifles in a few years like would seem to be the case with .308. Not that it isn't capable, plenty of people have had success with it at distance, just that it's not ideal. Overcoming crazy drop rates and poor wind deflection just isn't something I'd prefer to do. I don't want to have to fight the round.

I came to the 7MM magnum based on a lot of the info I picked up watching the Sniper 101 YouTube series. It just seemed like the best from a ballistic standpoint, while still maintaining decent availability. I'm not as concerned with factory match ammo availability as I am with just being able to buy something in a store once in a while. If I am in that situation, it's likely because I just want to throw a few rounds. I will be hand loading 99% of the time. Although I do think HSM makes some pre-made stuff you can pick up online. There are plenty 7MM bullet options, less brass options for Rem Mag but still enough. I did consider 6.5CM, but literally every store I went to didn't even have a spot on the shelf for it, let alone a selection. I have heard that you can run it in an LA. I don't mind the recoil on the Magnum. Truth be told, I kind of want something I can feel.

I have also looked into SAUM, but most of what I have seen points to pretty bad barrel life. I don't need to get 3000 rounds, but 2000 reliably would be nice. 7MM just seems to be a popular projectile. Ballistically speaking, very good as well. Maybe a .300WM would be a better option if I wanted a Magnum. Is straight .284 worth considering?

Regarding optics. I don't think I can swing a Razor in the above budget. Obviously a great optic. I would have to consider NF at those price levels as well. I will definitely check out the Steiner mentioned above. I just feel like there is a gap in options between $1400 and $2500 and I just can't swing the $2500 range. I can always upgrade that later. I'm certainly not expecting to get by with a $300 optic. I also looked at the Bushnell HDMR, forgot to mention that is still a consideration. It seems that most are using either the Viper/Bushnell/Burris in that price range.

I decided to do a custom action for the same reason as the person above. I had been considering a trued 700, but was turned off due to the minor cost bump in moving to a custom. I am certainly open to looking at other actions besides the BAT. They just seemed like one of the best. Hadn't realized they had ridiculous wait times. Looking to build something for next spring, as the winter really kills my shooting options in MN. Defiance & Stiller are considerations as well. Does anyone know the approximate wait times on the three? May have to put down a deposit sooner rather than later...

Been trying to do as much research as possible. This site has been an invaluable resource!
 
#14
culater said:
dont buy new just take a look at the for sale section on the hide. you might be suprised at what you'll find.
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Not at all opposed to used and have been keeping an eye on the sale section. Would be pretty surprised to find a pre-built rifle that I like everything about, but have have seen actions, optics etc.

Thanks for the tip!
 
#15
You need to ask yourself what distances you will be shooting the majority if the time, ammo or reloading costs will often dictate how much you will be able to shoot. The larger the caliber the more costly it will be to shoot, more powder, more recoil, more money. I would recommend a smaller caliber, 6.5CM if you do not plan to load initially, 243 or 260 if you plan on reloading is a good start. 308 is also a good choice to learn on, a 308 will get you to 1K yards no problem, lots of quality ammo available. I have ran my 243s out to 1400 yards with consistant results shooting the 115s, shot it out to a mile but it is well beyond the envelope of the rounds capabilities.

There is always a trade off, smaller calibers with high BC projectiles will give you the best results with the lowest cost for reloading components and less recoil, barel life is the tradeoff. The last 3 barrels chambered in 243 went to around 2500 rounds before they went. If you were looking for down range terminal ballistics and maximum energy, it would be a different story, for paper or steel its all about just getting there the most efficient way. I would recommend reading the caliber selection sticky thread at the top of this forum, it will help you out.
 
#16
Quick thoughts:

  1. You are getting some good advice here, it will pay to carefully weigh it when making your decision(s)
  2. Definitely look at the used stuff for sale here
  3. 7RM is the only "overkill" thing I picked out of your original post
  4. Read a lot (from reputable sources such as the 'Hide) before making decisions
  5. Welcome and have fun...
 
#17
If you want a 7 mm, long action, with great accuracy and decent barrel life.
And are going to reload you should take a serious look at the long action, 284 with a long freebore.
It is a very capable round with great brass, good high Bc bullets, and tolerable recoil.
Using 180 Bergers, Scenar L and similar it is truly outstanding if you shoot in windy conditions , and capable for 1200+.

The 7 Rm is overkill if your not into LR hunting or looking to shoot a mile.
That you get better barrel life then the short mags is not realistic either.

The 284 and particulary the Shehane is one of my absolute favorites.


Take your time and decide what you really want and need before you make your choice.
A lot of good advice in the thread already.
 
#19
With a $4k budget including glass and accessories along with wanting it sooner than later, DEFINITELY go used. The FS forum here has a lot of cherry rifles and glass going for way under retail prices, you just have to keep an eye out for them. Ammo wise, since you're in a state where you can receive ammo shipments, go with 6.5CM. Order it in by the case and keep a stock of it until you get into reloading. Even through the big ammo run last year it was only commonly unavailable for a few months, then came back heavy. Internet prices will beat brick and mortar nine times out of ten anyhow.

You probably won't fall into a custom type action at that price, but it can happen. Never fear though, a properly smith'd R700 and a good barrel will do you just fine for what you're wanting to do. The important thing is you get shooting and stay in budget here.
 
#21
Another advantage to .308 is, if in a few years you want one of the 6.5s (or many other calibers), you can just have new barrel fitted and you are there.

Learn on .308 with available factory ammo and lots of available components, and then move base on your needs and wants, AFTER you learn what you need and want.
 
#22
Wait Times

Southern Precision (bugholes.com) has Stiller and Defiance actions in stock and a ton of barrels. Also consider the U.S. Optics ST-10 it's a first rate scope for $1200.00. fixed power, but you can select from many features to add on. If you look quickly lapolicegear.com had Schmidt & Bender PM II's for $2,000.00 but they may go fast. I have a set of Steiner binoculars, if their scopes are any thing like them I'd go for that, the binos' are the clearest, brightest I've ever used,
 
#23
Great goals. How much rifle experience have you had? What is the farthest you have shot so far? Based on what I think the answers will be I would have to say a magnum anything would be a bad idea. If you really want to learn to shoot at distance be prepared to not do it with gear/caliber but with experience.

I'd recommend going a bit backwards given a 4k budget. Spend 2k on a quality FFP optic. Buy used so that you can save a bit. NF F1 would be fine or something similar. Get something in mils. Easier to learn. Spend 5-700 on a reloading press, dies and all the misc equipment. Buy a rcbs charge master if you can. Few lbs of powder, brass and components too.

That will probably only leave you 1k or less for the rifle. Buy a Remington PSS in 308 or one of the savages in 260, etc and shoot the piss out of it. Easily capable of 3/4 moa. Spend additional money on more components and shooting at different ranges. Try some positional shooting, off tripods, packs. Assuming you get 5k barrel life that works out to 20¢ per round the rifle cost you if you throw it away when you are done. Less than the cost of the bullets.

I've played the big bad 338 custom build when I was first getting started. It was cool but gave me a flinch and didn't make me a better shooter. Now 10k rounds later I might try it again knowing EXACTLY what I want in a customer build.

Jmho.
 
#25
Boltergeist said:
Wow! Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try to address the above questions.

snip...

I don't mind the recoil on the Magnum. Truth be told, I kind of want something I can feel.

snip...
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Not sure if you might change how you would feel about recoil if you're firing 60-100 rounds per day. :)

Like many other posters, I would recommend starting with a 6.5 round (6.5 CM, 260 Rem, 6.5x47 etc). There is a HUGE selection of high BC bullets available in 6.5. If you must go 7mm, then I think 280 or 284 would be a much better choice for a first LRP rifle rather than a magnum.

Also, depending on your caliber choice and the type of shooting you plan, zero stops on a scope are not necessarily a requirement for me. My 24" 260 Rem requires 7.8 mil elevation at 1000 yds (50 ft above sea level) and with my SWFA SS 5-20 scope having 10 mil turrets, it's less than one rotation out to 1150 yds.

My 'starter' rifle was a Savage LRP 260 Rem. It was a great rifle to learn how to shoot LR and to learn how to develop and reliably produce a good 'load'. All for $900. Once I became basically competent at LR I used the Savage action to build my current LR rifle to better match our local Long Range Precision/Tactical club 'program'.
 
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#26
Sometimes I wonder how people can buy a $5000 rifle and turn around and sell the next day here on the hide. A rifle that just waited for 6 months to a year for.People are just funny that way I guess.Just buy a used 700 action rip off the old barrel and put a top brand heavy barrel on and call it good.
 
#27
This will be my first rifle.
Click to expand...

What is wrong with a quality factory varmint rifle? Shoot the barrel out learning along the way or if you change your mind and decide this isn't for you it is no big loss and sell it. And what is up with a magnum rifle?. From what I have been seeing lately people can't even handle a .308 Win and starting threads about what is the best muzzle brake to get.
 
#28
Having done two customs in the last six months, I'd agree that with optics 4K won't get it done. As stated above there are a lot of great rifles in the for sale section. I agree with going 308, ammo is cheap and easy to find, plus the barrel will last much longer then a 6.5 crd. Best of luck to you, hope you get exactly what you want.
 
#29
psmith said:
Great goals. How much rifle experience have you had? What is the farthest you have shot so far? Based on what I think the answers will be I would have to say a magnum anything would be a bad idea. If you really want to learn to shoot at distance be prepared to not do it with gear/caliber but with experience.

I'd recommend going a bit backwards given a 4k budget. Spend 2k on a quality FFP optic. Buy used so that you can save a bit. NF F1 would be fine or something similar. Get something in mils. Easier to learn. Spend 5-700 on a reloading press, dies and all the misc equipment. Buy a rcbs charge master if you can. Few lbs of powder, brass and components too.

That will probably only leave you 1k or less for the rifle. Buy a Remington PSS in 308 or one of the savages in 260, etc and shoot the piss out of it. Easily capable of 3/4 moa. Spend additional money on more components and shooting at different ranges. Try some positional shooting, off tripods, packs. Assuming you get 5k barrel life that works out to 20¢ per round the rifle cost you if you throw it away when you are done. Less than the cost of the bullets.

I've played the big bad 338 custom build when I was first getting started. It was cool but gave me a flinch and didn't make me a better shooter. Now 10k rounds later I might try it again knowing EXACTLY what I want in a customer build.

Jmho.
Click to expand...

You are correct in assuming my rifle experience is fairly limited. Really haven't gone any further than 100 yards. I have been leaning closer to a more basic rifle and a better optic as of late, so that may be what wins out. What are your thoughts on the 700 Long Range? Seems as though the primary differences are the B&C stock and slightly heavier barrel contour. Adding in all the additional components(bipod, bags, case, etc.) would put me close to $1200-$1400, ~$2k for an optic(NF likely,F1 or ATACR) and some more capable reloading gear should put me close to my budget. Can always decide to dump more into the barrel/action/chassis down the road. Definitely a solid option. Still not a huge fan of buying something like this that I know I'll want to replace in 3-4 years, but I agree that I'll be a more informed buyer at that point. Looks like I'll have some serious thinking to do over the next few weeks. Is there a time of year that one usually sees some better deals on glass? Not sure if Christmas translates to deals here. Definitely will be keeping an eye on the BST forums.

Thanks again everyone for the help. For a hobby with such a high barrier to entry, everyone here has been very welcoming.
 
#30
Culpeper said:
What is wrong with a quality factory varmint rifle? Shoot the barrel out learning along the way or if you change your mind and decide this isn't for you it is no big loss and sell it. And what is up with a magnum rifle?. From what I have been seeing lately people can't even handle a .308 Win and starting threads about what is the best muzzle brake to get.
Click to expand...

While I don't have a lot of rifle experience, I do know that I can handle a .308. I have been shooting pistol and shotgun for a number of years. I am considering some smaller calibers now that I may buy something that I plan on replacing sooner. For some people though, shooter the larger cartridges is part of the fun.
 
#31
if you can shoot a round of trap/skeet or two than a .308 should be fine. I just don't recommend magnum rifles to somebody that is honest enough to admit this is a first rifle. You have the budget for a something like a Sako 85 Varmint and a SWFA 50 mm scope and get respect. That will take out as far as you need to get good and by that time you will know what you want next. Remember, you still have to get through the fundamentals. it will be a whole new discipline for you.
 
#32
Boltergeist said:
While I don't have a lot of rifle experience, I do know that I can handle a .308. I have been shooting pistol and shotgun for a number of years. I am considering some smaller calibers now that I may buy something that I plan on replacing sooner. For some people though, shooter the larger cartridges is part of the fun.
Click to expand...
Large cartridges are fun, spotting your own trace going through the target on a light recoiling high performance load is more fun.
 
#33
I like your thinking. I have filled a lot of bandwidth on this site downplaying the wisdom of new guys with stars in their eyes and money in their pockets. But really, it's their eyes and their money, and the best thing to do should be a frank effort to help them do it right.

As with others, I suggest the 7mag could be excessive. I would counter with the 7mm Remington Express, AKA the .280 Remington. With a 1:9" twist 24"-26" barrel and 162-168gr LR projectiles, 1Kyd should be just a waypoint on the path to targets out to several hundred yards further. H-4831SC is an ideal propellant in that format. Heavier bullets should require a 1:8" twist. This is simply a reformed .30-'06 case, so rifles with the '06 format should work with just a rebarrelling.

I find that delineating hard specs to a gunsmith may not be the most effective approach to obtaining the optimal rifle. My suspicion is that a good gunsmith's advice is worth at least as much as their prowess with tools and components. They will know quite a bit about which components work better together, and will also have their tools and setups optimized for those particular combinations. The prospect of a novice arguing with a gunsmith over what and how to do such things brings a grin to my face. I would preface any discussion of specs and components with an honest and open minded dialogue with the only real pro in the conversation.

I know that .280 Rem is not the most abundant content in the ammo cabinet at Wallyworld, but my experience with it has convinced me that it shoots very well, is easier on the body than the 7mag (and this directly translates into better motivation to engage in more productive practice), and that it's just an overall more efficient utilization of the case capacity and bore diameter. I own a pair of .280's.

That would be my set of suggestions.

Greg
 
#34
Tikka t3 action ( they are very well crafted!!) with a m24 conture barrel. 24-26 inches. Wiskey or mcmillan a4-adj. 6.5x47 lapua or the 260. The 6.5 projectile has superior bc compared to the 308. And its easy to reload. BAdger handle on the bolt. Aics magazine bottom metal if you go the mc millan way. Use 60% of your budget on a scope. S&B 3-27 , kales or other high end. If you cant se it. You cant shoot it!

A tikka t3 lite will coast you very little. Sell the stock and barrel.


If you snooze it - you loose it
 
#35
Theunforgiven said:
Tikka t3 action ( they are very well crafted!!) with a m24 conture barrel. 24-26 inches. Wiskey or mcmillan a4-adj. 6.5x47 lapua or the 260. The 6.5 projectile has superior bc compared to the 308. And its easy to reload. BAdger handle on the bolt. Aics magazine bottom metal if you go the mc millan way. Use 60% of your budget on a scope. S&B 3-27 , kales or other high end. If you cant se it. You cant shoot it!

A tikka t3 lite will coast you very little. Sell the stock and barrel.


If you snooze it - you loose it
Click to expand...

Don't 7mm projectiles have better BC than 6.5 though? This may not be the case, but it seems to be what I've seen in most of the charts I've seen. I'm not really after the cheapest round to reload. Don't need to spend $1 per round, but I'm not afraid of 50 cents or so.

On a side note, if I purchased an S&B 3-27 I would be at $3k, which doesn't leave enough for a Tikka, let alone the other upgrades.

A lot of people seem to be pointing out .308 or others based on cost. I'm not shooting a hundred rounds a day. Absent the cost, to an extent, what is a great performing, non-wildcat, projectile? I shoot trap regularly right now, which runs $40-$60 per trip.

I really appreciate all the help. Just trying to separate the budget recommendations from the performance ones.
 
#38
Thoughts on a custom build for a newb...

I have two main competition rifles. A rem700 sps varmit 308 cut to 20". Action bedded in a mcmillan a3-5 adj ( sorry i wrote a4 before). It shoots 1/3 moa with the 168gr amax. The action is not trued or anything. Just had the barrel cut and had a new crown made. We shot a 1000 meters this saturday on Saab targets using the 178gr amax at 814 m/s. I have a pmII on top in 3-12. The max 12 is just to little. Next rifle is a 6.5x55 with a swfa 10x scope on top. it performs just like the 6.5x47 but with a little more recoil.

The 308 is more sensitive to the wind than the 6.5. We can all calculate bullet drop the hard part is the wind. long profile bullets has less wind resistance.

What you also get in the 260 rem or the 6.5x47lapua. Is high bc and low recoil. Yes the 7mm has higher bc i have not shot that caliber. But it must need more power to fly the same distance beeing heavier and it does not look to have the same sleek profile of the 6 or 6.5 projectiles. So it must be more wind sensitive.

And therefore i still recommend you to choose the 6.5 bullet.
Listing my rifles. Just to tell you that you don't have to go full custom to get a rifle that shoots within 1/2 moa.
Scopes. The viper pst looks real nice for a mid range scope. Kales are bit cheaper than the s&b but with near the same optical performance. Im also a huge fan of the msr reticle.


If you snooze it - you loose it
 
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#39
Sako man said:
1. Start with 308

2. become a fucking Jedi

3. change barrels to 260 or 6.5 cred, if you still think you need it?
Click to expand...

+1. If you want to learn to read the wind, shoot something that doesn't buck the wind very well. This will force you to learn to see the subtleties. I got this advice from two nationally-ranked shooters one fine day in the clubhouse at Quantico, and I remain very grateful for it.

It's not about the rifle / equipment; it's about the shooting. There are some folks here at the hide who seem to have more money than practical experience, and that might be why there are so many almost brand new custom rifles for sale in the For Sale section. It does make sense to buy quality the first time, but that definitely does NOT mean spending $2000 of a $4000 budget on a scope. There are plenty of scopes which will serve you very well which cost a lot less. Sightron, for example. I started off with a straight 16X Super Sniper and upgraded it (all the way up to a $1K Sightron) once I had figured out for myself what I really needed. I started off with a rebarreled and accurized .300WSM which I got for $600 because I thought I needed more power to get to 1K without getting blown all over the place. At that time I was much more concerned about showing myself I could shoot decently at that distance. I can't say for sure whether this was a necessary first step towards confidence building. The competition section here at the Hide contains lots and lots of info about competing.

More than anything else, the thing that has helped me shoot better is PRACTICE. For about two years I practiced nearly every weekend, to the tune of about 5,000 rounds total (almost all of it .308). Most people can't afford to do that with a Mag cartridge, nor without being a dedicated and skilled reloader. Want to become a great shooter? Shoot a lot, and pay attention to what you are doing and to what is happening while you are. Nancy Tompkins has a great book on Long Range Shooting. Budget money for practice, and for reloading equipment and components. Quality handloaded .308 ammo costs about $0.75 each to load, plus tools and a bunch of time. This is not a cheap sport.

The .308 will teach you all of this. It offers off the shelf ammo availability, reloading component availability, a second-to-none knowledge base of reloading and practical experience info, barrel life, recoil tolerability.

There may be some advantage to a custom action, but I do not know what it is.

Edit: What is your local match scene? F Class? Tactical? If you intend to shoot F Class, do not get a muzzle brake, as they are not allowed in NRA sanctioned F Class matches. Dealing with recoil is part of F Class, and shooting a brake on a firing line full of people is unsufferably rude, thoughtless, and stupid.
 
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#40
Thoughts on a custom build for a newb...

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1409159155.939879.jpg

This beautiful thing is how i would do it.
The 308 is ok. But you will not be as competitive as the guys running the 6mm or 6.5. I run the 308 and its great. But getting a headstart is always an advantage. The 6.5 will for sure need wind correction. Last time on a 1000 meters i had to hold for 4 meters drift!
I love to shoot, learn, and win.! Dont sell yourself short ( but make sure you can get the ammo hand loaded for your rifle )Just because they are new calibers should not scare you.


If you snooze it - you loose it
 
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