Re: Threaded or QD can for .308 bolt gun
Phylodog Sir,
Can Damage:
Assume the worst, a baffle or something else (carbon chunk) comes loose inside the can, then you get a strike.
2nd worse, some trash gets in the can in a fall and you get a strike.
3rd worse, for reasons you can't quite figure out right now, the accuracy goes to shit with the can on, but not with it off. (Several threads to this end seen here.)
Next worse, can gets seriously overheated, accuracy degrades, and with the heat rise, you can't see the target to shoot at it, can needs to come off.
Once the can comes off, you can ding up the barrel threads to where you can't get the thread protector or the can back on. We've all seen a rifle fall muzzle down off a rack, table, truck or tree side to that one hard spot rather than the carpet...
Or you can get carbon off the muzzle in the can threads and the can won't go back on until you get cleaning gear.
Mr. Murphy is alive and well in my neighborhood.
You are correct, simpler is better.
I have them both ways, threaded and QD.
I have to be way more careful cleaning with the threaded ones than the QD's. Carbon in the threads (barrel and can) is the main issue when removing a can, then making sure I put anti-seize back on, etc.
QD mount cleaning requires only dragging a rag across the mount with a little lube.
Cleaning a rifle with a can on is something I don't do, and I don't like dragging a bore snake through a can and letting the fluff and junk get loose in the can, or drag an OTIS kit through one and let a patch get loose in one, or anything like that.
If you don't take the can off and get the carbon off the muzzle, the moisture build up will rust and ruin the crown, etc. That doesn't matter whether its a QD or screw on.
QD being quicker to mount, shorter on the barrel, and faster to maintain wins with me. Knowing the POI shift is then comes into play. JMHE