Looking at buying a Thunder Beast Ultra 7” 30 cal, but my local dealer here in MI never sold them so they don’t stock them. Other dealers that I called are out of stock. With the lead times being something like Jun 2021 what other suppressors should I be looking at that are comparable to the ultra 7” in performance, weight, length, and price?
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Suppressors Thunder Beast lead times...
- Thread starter Smith1175
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We are shipping suppressors to dealers who had them on order every day. Try our Availability tool. Mile High probably has what you need
I asked them ( my local dealer ) about Mile High and for whatever reason, they basically said they are only going to work with Thunder Beast direct and the lead time is what it is. I’m working with another local shop, but in the mean time I was looking to get a better idea what is on the market that’s comparable to the ultra 7”.
Find another transferring dealer. I had to do the same. I wouldn’t settle for anything but TBAC, especially for a precision rifle
IMO the Banish 30 does everything the Ultra 30 does, and a whole lot more. Here is mine on my just-rebuilt 7mm-08 in its 7" configuration. If I want maximum suppression I can screw on the 2" extension with 2 more baffles and run it in its 9" configuration. Takes maybe 30 seconds.
I was doing scope mounting and barrel break-in yesterday, cleaning my barrel after every 5 shots (and of course removing the suppressor every time I cleaned). If I were seriously shooting for groups I would have shot a couple of foulers after each cleaning, but with this target you are looking at every round fired. The first shot after cleaning almost invariably jumped out of place a bit, but that is the barrel, not the suppressor. Also, I was using brand new Hornady brass I had neck-sized but had not neck-turned yet, which always results in some flyers. A little more barrel break-in and I can start working up the optimum load for this new barrel.
Anyway, guys here will try to tell you that sealed cans like the Ultra are more accurate, repeatable, etc., than user-serviceable cans, but I can assure you there is nothing more accurate or repeatable than the Banish. Personally I don't think there is anything as accurate. I like to clean mine regularly to get all that carbon out of it. I put a light coating of silicone on all the internals after cleaning, to make the next cleaning easier.
I was doing scope mounting and barrel break-in yesterday, cleaning my barrel after every 5 shots (and of course removing the suppressor every time I cleaned). If I were seriously shooting for groups I would have shot a couple of foulers after each cleaning, but with this target you are looking at every round fired. The first shot after cleaning almost invariably jumped out of place a bit, but that is the barrel, not the suppressor. Also, I was using brand new Hornady brass I had neck-sized but had not neck-turned yet, which always results in some flyers. A little more barrel break-in and I can start working up the optimum load for this new barrel.
Anyway, guys here will try to tell you that sealed cans like the Ultra are more accurate, repeatable, etc., than user-serviceable cans, but I can assure you there is nothing more accurate or repeatable than the Banish. Personally I don't think there is anything as accurate. I like to clean mine regularly to get all that carbon out of it. I put a light coating of silicone on all the internals after cleaning, to make the next cleaning easier.
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IMO the Banish 30 does everything the Ultra 30 does, and a whole lot more. Here is mine on my just-rebuilt 7mm-08 in its 7" configuration. If I want maximum suppression I can screw on the 2" extension with 2 more baffles and run it in its 9" configuration. Takes maybe 30 seconds.
I was doing scope mounting and barrel break-in yesterday, cleaning my barrel after every 5 shots (and of course removing the suppressor every time I cleaned). If I were seriously shooting for groups I would have shot a couple of foulers after each cleaning, but with this target you are looking at every round fired. The first shot after cleaning almost invariably jumped out of place a bit, but that is the barrel, not the suppressor. Also, I was using brand new Hornady brass I had neck-sized but had not neck-turned yet, which always results in some flyers. A little more barrel break-in and I can start working up the optimum load for this new barrel.
Anyway, guys here will try to tell you that sealed cans like the Ultra are more accurate, repeatable, etc., than user-serviceable cans, but I can assure you there is nothing more accurate or repeatable than the Banish. Personally I don't think there is anything as accurate. I like to clean mine regularly to get all that carbon out of it. I put a light coating of silicone on all the internals after cleaning, to make the next cleaning easier.
That is s very interesting concept and I can admit I haven’t heard of Banish suppressors until now.
Nothing more repeatable blah blah , time for you to put up or shut up .
More repeatable than this ,
Pretty sure the response will be like last time , and you'll be too busy , important , or whatever to back up your BS .
More repeatable than this ,
Pretty sure the response will be like last time , and you'll be too busy , important , or whatever to back up your BS .
I only recently got the 30, but I've been running a Banish 223 for a couple years. Very high quality.
However, there is a little clique here of mfgr's rep and sycophants who try to belittle anyone who dares to compare any other suppressor to the Ultra. Their idea of innovation is they make one Ultra in 30 cal that is 7" and one that is 9", and if you want to use different lengths you should just buy both.
They have for years said there is no need for a suppressor to be user-serviceable (because theirs aren't, of course). However, I would strongly advise reading the "Do you clean your suppressor" thread here.
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IMO the Banish 30 does everything the Ultra 30 does, and a whole lot more. Here is mine on my just-rebuilt 7mm-08 in its 7" configuration. If I want maximum suppression I can screw on the 2" extension with 2 more baffles and run it in its 9" configuration. Takes maybe 30 seconds.
I was doing scope mounting and barrel break-in yesterday, cleaning my barrel after every 5 shots (and of course removing the suppressor every time I cleaned). If I were seriously shooting for groups I would have shot a couple of foulers after each cleaning, but with this target you are looking at every round fired. The first shot after cleaning almost invariably jumped out of place a bit, but that is the barrel, not the suppressor. Also, I was using brand new Hornady brass I had neck-sized but had not neck-turned yet, which always results in some flyers. A little more barrel break-in and I can start working up the optimum load for this new barrel.
Anyway, guys here will try to tell you that sealed cans like the Ultra are more accurate, repeatable, etc., than user-serviceable cans, but I can assure you there is nothing more accurate or repeatable than the Banish. Personally I don't think there is anything as accurate. I like to clean mine regularly to get all that carbon out of it. I put a light coating of silicone on all the internals after cleaning, to make the next cleaning easier.
What silencers do you own and how long have you owned them?
I only recently got the 30, but I've been running a Banish 223 for a couple years. Very high quality.
However, there is a little clique here of mfgr's rep and sycophants who try to belittle anyone who dares to compare any other suppressor to the Ultra. Their idea of innovation is they make one Ultra in 30 cal that is 7" and one that is 9", and if you want to use different lengths you should just buy both.
They have for years said there is no need for a suppressor to be user-serviceable (because theirs aren't, of course). However, I would strongly advise reading the "Do you clean your suppressor" thread here.
Holy hell no kidding. I was just seeing what was out there that was comparable because of the wait and finding a FFl that would take the transfer (which I found one locally that is more than happy to btw).
A little lesson on suppressor construction , what is stronger a properly welded joint or extra fine threads in thin wall tubing ?
And if you said good weld's you are correct .
Adding threaded joints to a suppressor that is totally dependent on the tube for it's strength is adding points of failure . Most reputable manufacturers will take care of this under warranty but if the tube , the registered part with the NFA , is damaged beyond repair a new suppressor is the only answer because a new tube with the old serial number can not be made because it is against the law .
Threads are also a wear item , every time they are put together and taken apart they stretch and the contact becomes less and the torque capability goes down . So every time you take the can apart it wears some and this is cumulative over time .
There are 3 threaded joints on the bannish suppressor.
Also they do not list a barrel length on the spec sheet and depending on the application this can be an issue . The muzzle pressure on a 16 " barrel is way more than say a 24 " barrel . Again the reputable manufacturers state these limitations on their websites and product literature .
There is also a claim of a huge DB reduction with no baseline data given as to the test equipment and test parameters . The exact same gun and ammo and suppressor combination will meter different on different days because of how the sound travels through the air and the weather conditions being variable .
The lack of test equipment data is a concern because there are only a few meters available that can read the peak DB limit at the very short rise time generated by gunshots . So this leads to questions to the validity of the test data .
Pretty sure your new buddy the bannish salesman will be on shortly to say all these things dont matter and this is just ramblings from an Internet sycophant .
And if you said good weld's you are correct .
Adding threaded joints to a suppressor that is totally dependent on the tube for it's strength is adding points of failure . Most reputable manufacturers will take care of this under warranty but if the tube , the registered part with the NFA , is damaged beyond repair a new suppressor is the only answer because a new tube with the old serial number can not be made because it is against the law .
Threads are also a wear item , every time they are put together and taken apart they stretch and the contact becomes less and the torque capability goes down . So every time you take the can apart it wears some and this is cumulative over time .
There are 3 threaded joints on the bannish suppressor.
Also they do not list a barrel length on the spec sheet and depending on the application this can be an issue . The muzzle pressure on a 16 " barrel is way more than say a 24 " barrel . Again the reputable manufacturers state these limitations on their websites and product literature .
There is also a claim of a huge DB reduction with no baseline data given as to the test equipment and test parameters . The exact same gun and ammo and suppressor combination will meter different on different days because of how the sound travels through the air and the weather conditions being variable .
The lack of test equipment data is a concern because there are only a few meters available that can read the peak DB limit at the very short rise time generated by gunshots . So this leads to questions to the validity of the test data .
Pretty sure your new buddy the bannish salesman will be on shortly to say all these things dont matter and this is just ramblings from an Internet sycophant .
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Yeah, the Banish folks do not pay nearly enough attention to their website. But if you download their Instructions Manual for the 30 it says:
The BANISH 30 is rated up to .300 WBY MAG with a 24” barrel and is limited full auto rated. It is not recommended to use on barrels shorter than 16” as it may create more wear on the first blast baffle.
Firing more than 20 rounds rapid fire (less than one minute) will cause premature wear on the baffles. It is recommended
that the suppressor be allowed to cool between rapid fire
sessions.
Since I have no desire to shoot any 30 caliber bigger than .30-06, and no desire to shoot any barrel shorter shorter than 16", the Banish work fine for me.
As for your concerns about thread-wear and threaded joints, I have had my Banish 223 apart dozens of times and the threads still look (and work) like they did when they were brand new. Time will tell, but I doubt I'm going to have any more trouble with the threaded tube extension in my Banish 30 than I have had with my threaded end-cap in my Banish 223.
Which is zero. Are you sure your concerns aren't just another one of those "sour grapes" deals?
The BANISH 30 is rated up to .300 WBY MAG with a 24” barrel and is limited full auto rated. It is not recommended to use on barrels shorter than 16” as it may create more wear on the first blast baffle.
Firing more than 20 rounds rapid fire (less than one minute) will cause premature wear on the baffles. It is recommended
that the suppressor be allowed to cool between rapid fire
sessions.
Since I have no desire to shoot any 30 caliber bigger than .30-06, and no desire to shoot any barrel shorter shorter than 16", the Banish work fine for me.
As for your concerns about thread-wear and threaded joints, I have had my Banish 223 apart dozens of times and the threads still look (and work) like they did when they were brand new. Time will tell, but I doubt I'm going to have any more trouble with the threaded tube extension in my Banish 30 than I have had with my threaded end-cap in my Banish 223.
Which is zero. Are you sure your concerns aren't just another one of those "sour grapes" deals?
What was the quote again from the other thread, just be pause you dont see it doesn't mean it isn't happening or words to that affect .
Just because your eye says the threads look ok , which they are probably serviceable at this point , does not mean they are not stretching and wearing it is a matter of that is the way threads work and hold torque and happy thoughts doesn't change it .
Just because your eye says the threads look ok , which they are probably serviceable at this point , does not mean they are not stretching and wearing it is a matter of that is the way threads work and hold torque and happy thoughts doesn't change it .
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Here's an interesting fact: We replace our thread gauges generally about every 500-750 times they are inserted into brakes due to wear that gets them potentially out of the spec required for them to work properly as a thread gauge. These are made out of hardened tool steel BTW.
Well gosh, I turn the (threaded) turrets on my Nightforces ten times as much as I work the threaded parts of my Banish suppressors. Does that they are going to wear out on me????
You guys make Adam Schiff look honest.
But you know what, even if the threads on my Banish ever did wear out, I've got a LIFETIME WARRANTY from Silencer Central that would cover replacement:
BANISH Suppressor Lifetime Warranty
We provide a lifetime warranty against all manufacturing defects and damage caused by the normal use of our products. We will repair or replace free of charge any suppressor manufactured by, or at the direction of, BANISH Suppressors.
Does the TBAC warranty say it covers threads wearing out? Why, no, actually, it doesn't, because it excludes damage from "normal wear and tear."
Banish (fka Varminter) suppressors with threaded end-caps have been on the market since, what, 2005? Where are al the posts by people saying their "threads wore out?"
You guys make Adam Schiff look honest.
But you know what, even if the threads on my Banish ever did wear out, I've got a LIFETIME WARRANTY from Silencer Central that would cover replacement:
BANISH Suppressor Lifetime Warranty
We provide a lifetime warranty against all manufacturing defects and damage caused by the normal use of our products. We will repair or replace free of charge any suppressor manufactured by, or at the direction of, BANISH Suppressors.
Does the TBAC warranty say it covers threads wearing out? Why, no, actually, it doesn't, because it excludes damage from "normal wear and tear."
Banish (fka Varminter) suppressors with threaded end-caps have been on the market since, what, 2005? Where are al the posts by people saying their "threads wore out?"
RAOTFLMAO!! I’d be making a hush money payment if I owned this company just to get this guy to stop talking. It’s making their company look pretty damn silly.
I’d be making a hush money payment if I owned this company just to get this guy to stop talking. It’s making their company look pretty damn silly.
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Well gosh, I turn the (threaded) turrets on my Nightforces ten times as much as I work the threaded parts of my Banish suppressors. Does that they are going to wear out on me????
You guys make Adam Schiff look honest.
But you know what, even if the threads on my Banish ever did wear out, I've got a LIFETIME WARRANTY from Silencer Central that would cover replacement:
BANISH Suppressor Lifetime Warranty
We provide a lifetime warranty against all manufacturing defects and damage caused by the normal use of our products. We will repair or replace free of charge any suppressor manufactured by, or at the direction of, BANISH Suppressors.
Does the TBAC warranty say it covers threads wearing out? Why, no, actually, it doesn't, because it excludes damage from "normal wear and tear."
Banish (fka Varminter) suppressors with threaded end-caps have been on the market since, what, 2005? Where are al the posts by people saying their "threads wore out?"
What silencers do you own and how long have you owned them?
The second sentence of our warranty statement has almost the exact same wording you quoted from theirs, "[...] covers service, repair, and/or replacement of the TBAC product damaged during normal use and conditions", but "normal wear and tear" refers to things like the suppressor looking ratty because it's been rattling around your truck floorboards for 6 months. If anyone has any questions about what is or is not covered by the TBAC warranty, I'd encourage them to contact us and ask us about it.
Maybe you'll get an answer this time but I suspect we both know the response you'll receive. Good luck .
Well, Zak, no offense but they better get it in writing, because threads wearing out sure sounds like normal wear and tear to me, which your warranty specifically excludes and Silencer Central's specifically includes. Perhaps if you really mean that you should change the wording of your warranty.
But we both know that threads wearing out is not the real risk, don't we? If it were it would happen with the muzzle interface, where the highly abrasive powder residue cannot be kept out of the threads, and not with the Banish end-cap or 2" extension, which by design achieve a perfect seal against the baffles or spacer tube. The threaded connections on my Banish end-cap and extension always come out pretty clean, and of course I lube them with silicone grease, which is still there and relatively clean when I unscrew. Fantastic system.
A far greater risk is that someone will get a little carried away with their rate of fire and cook their first baffle. TBAC is probably going to say that is "abuse/improper use" and it is a major repair to disassemble an Ultra 7 to fix it. Same thing with a baffle-strike caused by shooting the suppressor when it was only loosely threaded on. Silencer Central might say those are "abuse/improper use" too, but here's the major difference -- with my Banish it is simple and inexpensive to just unscrew the end-cap, take the baffles out and replace the damaged ones.
The design of the Banish is light-years ahead of any other can on the market. Period.
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Well, I have had at least one Banish since three weeks ago when I posted that target with 4 consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards with my Banish 223 on my .204 that averaged .284", and that nobody has come close to beating yet.
So what difference does it make, and who the hell are you to think you have the right to demand to know how many suppressors I own, etc.?
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Well, Zak, no offense but they better get it in writing, because threads wearing out sure sounds like normal wear and tear to me, which your warranty specifically excludes and Silencer Centrals specifically includes. Perhaps if you really mean that you should change the wording of your warranty.
But we both know that threads wearing out is not the real risk, don't we? A far greater risk is that someone will get a little carried away with their rate of fire and cook their first baffle. TBAC is probably going to say that is "abuse/improper use" and it is a major repair to disassemble an Ultra 7 to fix it. Same thing with a baffle-strike caused by shooting the suppressor when it was only loosely threaded on. Silencer Central might say those are "abuse/improper use" too, but here's the major difference -- with my Banish it is simple and inexpensive to just unscrew the end-cap, take the baffles out and replace the damaged ones.
Take your 7mm-08 and cherry-picked 4 shot groups elsewhere. “Nothing more accurate.” Are you kidding me? You’re barely sub-MOA with most of those groups, bud.
Who did this to you, EnXCess?
Well, Zak, no offense but they better get it in writing, because threads wearing out sure sounds like normal wear and tear to me, which your warranty specifically excludes and Silencer Centrals specifically includes. Perhaps if you really mean that you should change the wording of your warranty.
But we both know that threads wearing out is not the real risk, don't we? A far greater risk is that someone will get a little carried away with their rate of fire and cook their first baffle. TBAC is probably going to say that is "abuse/improper use" and it is a major repair to disassemble an Ultra 7 to fix it. Same thing with a baffle-strike caused by shooting the suppressor when it was only loosely threaded on. Silencer Central might say those are "abuse/improper use" too, but here's the major difference -- with my Banish it is simple and inexpensive to just unscrew the end-cap, take the baffles out and replace the damaged ones.
I must have missed the precursor thread, but for the love of god, of you don’t own a TBAC and/or haven’t talked to any TBAC personnel, you’re handicapping your argument. THE best service the suppressor industry has to offer. That’s as factual as it gets.
Tell me where I can reference someone talking about your love child suppressor in terms of first hand service beyond yourself.
Far be it for me to demand anything. I'm only trying to assess the value of your opinion.
I think you're cratering and it is only a matter of time before your welcome is worn out.
Getting back on topic, OP I would ditch the dealer that isn’t flexible enough to work with others.
If you want a TBAC, I’d hold out/keep looking for one. I have a 30 cal Ultra 9 CB. Very happy with it. The new Dominus seems really cool fwiw. If you’re open to others, CGS makes some impressive cans (on paper) but I have zero first-hand experience with them. NFA review channel seems to recommend them, though, plus if you join their Patreon you get 50% off CGS products. Food for thought.
If you want a TBAC, I’d hold out/keep looking for one. I have a 30 cal Ultra 9 CB. Very happy with it. The new Dominus seems really cool fwiw. If you’re open to others, CGS makes some impressive cans (on paper) but I have zero first-hand experience with them. NFA review channel seems to recommend them, though, plus if you join their Patreon you get 50% off CGS products. Food for thought.
TBAC is in extremely high demand, our SHOT order won't be arriving until August.
I don't think you can call it "cherry-picking" when I show you the first five groups ever shot with that barrel.
But since that was the first time that barrel has had a round through it, and I haven't even started to work up an optimal round for it yet, I was quite pleased to get one 5-shot group of .381" and one of .382", out of five groups shot.
Because I know it only going to get better. Your sealed cans don't have a prayer.
I have bad news for you. The baffles are simple, single clipped, radials. They are not as quiet as Tbac cans.I don't think you can call it "cherry-picking" when I show you the first five groups ever shot with that barrel.
But since that was the first time that barrel has had a round through it, and I haven't even started to work up an optimal round for it yet, I was quite pleased to get one 5-shot group of .381" and one of .382", out of five groups shot.
Because I know it only going to get better. Your sealed cans don't have a prayer.
Now, I do like the take apart, modular, user serviceable part of there cans though. Very similar to the form 1 cans I’ve done lately.
For qualification, I own, yhm, Tbac, SAS, and form 1 stuff. First can was purchased in ‘08. I’m not new to this.
OP, if you want the best, get the Tbac, if you want good enough, there are a lot of options out there. Find a different dealer that’s willing to have one shipped in and use the locator to find the can you want.
I purchased another TBAC Ultra-7 about a month ago. It took an afternoon of picking up the phone and calling dealers. I found several in-stock and transferred locally. The dealer-to-dealer transfer took about a week or two including shipping time. While I was making phone I signed-up for notifications from several other dealers, and I've been getting notifications pretty regularly.
Call around and I bet you can find one in-stock.
All I can tell you is that if I stand back 30 feet without any ear protection and listen to a friend shooting his .223 through his 7" Ultra 7, and then through my 7" Banish 223, I cannot hear any difference at all. Silencer Central claims to have a sophisticated meter and to have done comparative tests. I don't really believe too much that people say about what they are selling, but I do believe my own ears, and I don't believe there is anything more quiet than my Banish, or if there were, it would be so slight that it is not worth worrying about.
I can definitely hear the difference with any caliber shot through my Banish 30 in its 7" configuration compared to its 9" configuration.
Another suppressor 101 lesson , today's topic unsecured baffles in a tube on a center fire rifle suppressor.
The baffles and tube expand and contract at different rates causing what is a tolerance fit cold to open up and allow the baffle stack to move inside the tube when the rifle is fired . This condition is aggravated by the pressure inside the tube compressing the stack and expanding the tube .
Ooh ooh there is that thread stretch thing again .
The baffle stack can move enough to cause baffle strikes and damage the can .
And to answer your sour grapes question, why would I be disappointed in buying and using a product that is stronger , quieter , lighter and considered the Industry standard by many people for precision rifle suppressors.
The baffles and tube expand and contract at different rates causing what is a tolerance fit cold to open up and allow the baffle stack to move inside the tube when the rifle is fired . This condition is aggravated by the pressure inside the tube compressing the stack and expanding the tube .
Ooh ooh there is that thread stretch thing again .
The baffle stack can move enough to cause baffle strikes and damage the can .
And to answer your sour grapes question, why would I be disappointed in buying and using a product that is stronger , quieter , lighter and considered the Industry standard by many people for precision rifle suppressors.
First you come in and shit on this thread and give an unsolicited opinion. Second, you begin to troll and start arguments with other forum members for apparently no reason other than to shit on this thread and Tbac suppressors. Third, you're right at or just beyond breaking forum rules shitting on forum sponsors. Regardless of what you think, or the truth for that matter, these sponsors help quite a great deal with keeping this forum operating. Frank does not work for free.
I'm not sure why you needed to come in here and shit all over but I'm thinking you'd be better served if you inserted your suppressor into your Fleshlight and went and fucked yourself right out of this thread.
I'm not sure why you needed to come in here and shit all over but I'm thinking you'd be better served if you inserted your suppressor into your Fleshlight and went and fucked yourself right out of this thread.
I don't know about other user-serviceable cans but that never happens with my Banish or with any of the thousands of other Banish cans out there. Absolute BS saying the baffles move around.
More BS. Lighter? The Ultra 7 in .308 DT weighs 11.5 oz. The Banish 30 in its 7" configuration weighs 9 oz.
The Ultra 9 .308 DT weighs 13.7 oz. The Banish 30 in its 9" configuration weighs 13 oz.
And they are essentially identical in sound suppression. Strength? I don't know. What tests have been done to determine that?
And why does it matter? Neither blows up, and neither is going to fare well if you drop them off a rock ledge.
But the real (and likely) bugaboo with any suppressor is baffle damage, which may or may not be covered by warranty. With the Ultra, it is a major repair job. With the Banish it takes 2 minutes to unscrew the end-cap and replace the damaged baffles.
The "industry" needs a new "standard."
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Yeah, I know, so when people like this OP ask "what other suppressors should I be looking at that are comparable to the ultra 7” in performance, weight, length, and price?" everyone here will just say, "none."
And if stating the truth irritates some people, that is their problem, not the rest of the world's.
Again with my favorite quote from you , just because you don't see it doesn't mean it isn't happening.
Fluid dynamics are fluid dynamics and just because your favorite suppressor doesn't say it exists doesn't suspend physics .
Why don't you call your messiah up and ask them why they limit their product to 20 rounds in 1 min and how the barrel length restrictions are set , here's a hint uncorking pressure . Look at the restrictions placed by both manufacturers and it is really easy to determine which one is stronger .
The weight on the DT cans all include 2 + oz of thread adaptor so try again .
Fluid dynamics are fluid dynamics and just because your favorite suppressor doesn't say it exists doesn't suspend physics .
Why don't you call your messiah up and ask them why they limit their product to 20 rounds in 1 min and how the barrel length restrictions are set , here's a hint uncorking pressure . Look at the restrictions placed by both manufacturers and it is really easy to determine which one is stronger .
The weight on the DT cans all include 2 + oz of thread adaptor so try again .
Yeah, they say that and TBAC says don't let the can get over 800 degrees. What's the difference to someone like me who is a precision shooter with zero desire to shoot with a hot barrel, shortening its life?
I don't care how they get there, if you want a DT Ultra 7 it will weight 2.5 oz. more the comparable Banish.
Now, if you do want QD, then the Ultra is the way to go, because Banish does not offer that. However, after having one QD suppessor (YHM), will not buy anything but DT.
You said nothing about your shooting schedule but were questioning strength and the specs speak for themselves as to which one is stronger and it ain't your beloved banish .
Weren't you the one who said they got there barrel and suppressor hot enough to vaporize the base metal in antiseize and fuze it to your crown ? Which happens at temps exceeding 2500 deg F .
There are multiple reasons why a break attach can is more desirable than direct thread and because you had issue's with YHM , which you championed previously , doesn't negate them . Again like you said just because you don't see it doesn't mean it isn't happening .
Weren't you the one who said they got there barrel and suppressor hot enough to vaporize the base metal in antiseize and fuze it to your crown ? Which happens at temps exceeding 2500 deg F .
There are multiple reasons why a break attach can is more desirable than direct thread and because you had issue's with YHM , which you championed previously , doesn't negate them . Again like you said just because you don't see it doesn't mean it isn't happening .
IF I was going to buy a Banish I would make my own on a form 1 for $400. Oh wait I am actually doing that right now, two of them for beater cans. Plus I already have an Ultra 7 6.5, Ultra 7 30 cal, Ultra 9 6.5, Ultra 9 30 cal, Omega 300, Take Down 22. AND my buddy has a Banish that I have shot, among dozens of others. But look what I have shot and currently building on a form 1. Back to the OP there are several dealers with TBACs in stock, just gotta do some digging.
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Anywho, OP, find a TBAC can and never look back. The highest quality precision rifle suppressor to grace the world. The wait is 120% worth it if you even have to wait (except for the dreaded gubment stamp). I bought an ultra 9 for my 6BR after months and months of waiting for one to show up at my local dealer and I can’t express how awesome it is. You’ll be glad you went that route.
Well, this thread has taken quite the detour! We'd totally buy thread gauges that last 1,000,000 cycles instead of sub-1000, that'd save us a bunch of money. Now what that has to do with threads "wearing out", who knows?
Let me point out a couple things that might be under-appreciated about suppressor construction (and destruction). These are things that we've learned "the hard way", through specific experiments, other matter-of-course testing , or analyzing product failures. I alluded to these in the other thread, but let me elaborate a little bit.
First, in a centerfire rifle suppressor, if there is any play, even a very tiny bit of play, between baffles in the stack, the back-and-forth hammering effect will eventually damage the baffles to the extent that there can be more serious suppressor damage.
Second, in a suppressor that has two endcaps that screw into the tube and a bunch of baffles in the middle (ie, not a fully welded core welded to the rear end), two things follow: (1) the tube bears all the long-axis pull force, and (2) the threads that hold the exit endcap into the tube bear all that force also. In the Ultras for example if we omitted to weld the stack, it would lose over 50% of its long-axis strength, not even counting the thread strength issue. Now if you look at the construction of the 556 Take Down, which does come apart from the front, the size of the thread interface between the exit endcap and the tube is gigantic (and we have a torque spec, and it's pinned with a vernier pin setup to prevent the other issue).
First, in a centerfire rifle suppressor, if there is any play, even a very tiny bit of play, between baffles in the stack, the back-and-forth hammering effect will eventually damage the baffles to the extent that there can be more serious suppressor damage.
Second, in a suppressor that has two endcaps that screw into the tube and a bunch of baffles in the middle (ie, not a fully welded core welded to the rear end), two things follow: (1) the tube bears all the long-axis pull force, and (2) the threads that hold the exit endcap into the tube bear all that force also. In the Ultras for example if we omitted to weld the stack, it would lose over 50% of its long-axis strength, not even counting the thread strength issue. Now if you look at the construction of the 556 Take Down, which does come apart from the front, the size of the thread interface between the exit endcap and the tube is gigantic (and we have a torque spec, and it's pinned with a vernier pin setup to prevent the other issue).
