Suppressors Thundertrap on an AR

SABuzzard

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 31, 2011
532
25
San Antonio, TX
I've got an AWC Thundertrap on my Remington 308 Mil Spec. Works great. Now I'm considering trying it on my Armalite 7.62x39 AR15. The can accepts 5/8x24 threads and Armalite says the barrel is threaded to 5/8x24. So is it as simple as unscrewing the flash suppressor and screwing the can on? My concern is that threads for a flash suppressor may not be as precise as those for a can. I've waited too long and paid too much to risk a baffle strike. Any thoughts?

Any other issues I may have with a Thundertrap on a 7.62x39 AR?
 
Re: Thundertrap on an AR

The thundertrap runs a pretty tight bore for production threads- many suppressor companies run bores with double to even triple the tolerance.

If I were you I would unload the rifle in accordance with the user manual, then remove the lower from the upper, remove the bolt carrier, remove the flash suppressor and alignment washer, thread mount the suppressor, and in a lighted room, against a white background look down the suppressor bore to see if the barrel walls could be viewed parallel with the bore prior to an element of the suppressor occluding the bore from view.

If no element of the suppressor occludes the side wall of the bore, you probably have a properly aligned suppressor and should be good to go.
 
Re: Thundertrap on an AR

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The thundertrap runs a pretty tight bore for production threads- many suppressor companies run bores with double to even triple the tolerance.

If I were you I would unload the rifle in accordance with the user manual, then remove the lower from the upper, remove the bolt carrier, remove the flash suppressor and alignment washer, thread mount the suppressor, and in a lighted room, against a white background look down the suppressor bore to see if the barrel walls could be viewed parallel with the bore prior to an element of the suppressor occluding the bore from view.

If no element of the suppressor occludes the side wall of the bore, you probably have a properly aligned suppressor and should be good to go. </div></div>

I walked through the steps you outlined above. Everything checked out. Works great. Thanks!

I'm going to try out some sub-sonics next. See if action will cycle.
 
Re: Thundertrap on an AR

That Thundertrap is a low pressure can, it should work well.

Your next issue, sub-sonics, should be tested without the can on. See if the rounds make it out the barrel, see how they print on paper at 50 yards, 100 yards. Look for key holing, etc. If you have access to a chrony use it too.
 
Re: Thundertrap on an AR

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RollingThunder51</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your next issue, sub-sonics, should be tested without the can on. See if the rounds make it out the barrel, see how they print on paper at 50 yards, 100 yards. Look for key holing, etc. If you have access to a chrony use it too.</div></div> RollingThunder51 speaks the truth - test, test and test some more before you work subs in the rifle. A lot cheaper to test then have to send the suppressor back to AWC for a cap strike.
 
Re: Thundertrap on an AR

Update:

Can works great at taking the edge off super sonic rounds. A touch heavy on the end of a 16" barrel but has little effect on POI so manageable from bench or prone.

Subsonics are a different story. I haven't been able to find a reliable source of factory 7.62x39 subsonic ammo or even a handload recipe that I trust. I'm still new to handloading so I'm not real interested in experimenting outside the manuals.

Ended up purchasing a 10" 300 Blkout upper to fill the gap. Waiting on the tax stamp now.

Who knows... I may revisit the 7.62x39 Subsonic project once I get more comfortable with loading and find suitable load data.