I am installing a new muzzle brake. The brake has flats machined on it so you can tighten it down with a wrench. What's the best way to protect the finish of the brake when tightening it down?
Gunsmithing tightening down muzzle brake
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Shouldnt need a wrench to begin with. The brake should give a "HARD" stop when timed using hand tightening. If loctite wanted to ensure 12 oclock position and no unscrewing from recoil, fine, but should be hand tight when the immediate stop occurs. Flame suit on over this reply
I agree with your reply, only mine was assuming his brake was the kind that came with instructions to torque to a specific value. Like on an AR or a QD suppressor adapter/brake. A buddy of mine asked me to install one that looks like a flash hider from AAC and the instructions said to torque to 45 Ft Lbs. kind of tight in my opinion, but WTF do I know. I didn't engineer or design it, I just followed instructions. Non of the brakes on my personal rifles are more than hand tight without loctite, and I've never had one come loose while using it.
I've used printer paper/post-its/masking tape to protect finish on brakes from tool marks. I too only snug a little more than hand tight with high pressure grease or anti-sieze.
Lots of torque on a 1/2"-28 might distort the bore/muzzle and may impact accuracy. It's probably less of a concern on larger ODs and smaller bores.
I like the ability to remove mine for cleaning when they get seriously crusty from carbon/copper residue.
Lots of torque on a 1/2"-28 might distort the bore/muzzle and may impact accuracy. It's probably less of a concern on larger ODs and smaller bores.
I like the ability to remove mine for cleaning when they get seriously crusty from carbon/copper residue.
