Has anyone used the Proof barrel prefit for the Tikka? It looks like it is shouldered so does it just screw on? Are the Tikka actions consistent enough to work like the Bighorn shouldered prefits?
Tikka- Proof barrel prefit.
- Thread starter SWWI Shooter
- Start date
Interesting. The action must be consistent if they are meant to be screw on and go. I expected to get a lot of comments on this. Must not be many people that have put them on.
Maybe I could take donations from Tikka owners to be a guinea pig and try one out 
Would at least confirm that they headspace correctly on one rifle.
Would at least confirm that they headspace correctly on one rifle.Yes, I saw that they offered an all steel which does seem like a good price. You can by the blank for $375. but I suppose by the time the smith was done, it would be pretty pricey.
Just ran through it and was quoted $515 for standard chamber + muzzle threading + Cerakote, which listed as $60 up charge. Non-cerakote is under $500 though.
These guys have some in stock:
Proof Research Carbon Fiber Barrels- Pre-Fit Tikka T3/T3X Barrels
Stocky's Stocks Afternmarket Rifle Stock Supplier
www.stockysstocks.com
"Had a chance to try it out yet ?"
I have. I'm just over a 100 rounds deep. I broke it in with federal premium Berger hybrid 140 grain and ended up grouping around .45 moa (first picture.)
I then ran an OCW test with alpha brass, H4350, and Berger 140 elite hunters .020 off the lands. located a good spot around 40.4 grains at 2620 fps, all my groups shot under .75 moa, and my load with charges of 40.1, 40.4, and 40.7 all shot under 0.5 moa at close to the same velocity and vicinity on paper. I just adjusted my seating depth and found a nice spot about .060 off the lands that landed me at .29 moa (Pic 2). I'm going to do another load development with the 143 eld-x soon, and will also play around with my brass since I can't seem to get very high velocities in the alpha brass without showing some pressure signs early.
In short, I'm loving this setup.
I have. I'm just over a 100 rounds deep. I broke it in with federal premium Berger hybrid 140 grain and ended up grouping around .45 moa (first picture.)
I then ran an OCW test with alpha brass, H4350, and Berger 140 elite hunters .020 off the lands. located a good spot around 40.4 grains at 2620 fps, all my groups shot under .75 moa, and my load with charges of 40.1, 40.4, and 40.7 all shot under 0.5 moa at close to the same velocity and vicinity on paper. I just adjusted my seating depth and found a nice spot about .060 off the lands that landed me at .29 moa (Pic 2). I'm going to do another load development with the 143 eld-x soon, and will also play around with my brass since I can't seem to get very high velocities in the alpha brass without showing some pressure signs early.
In short, I'm loving this setup.
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Very nice! I'm starting a tikka proof build also. Haven't decided on prefit or having smith chamber a blank. Decisions...
What did you have it chambered in? How much Freebore did you select on that one? I see they have a couple choices on some 6.5 barrels. Is there plenty of bullet seated into the case neck with the berger 140 if you were to get closer to the lands? And when jumping it .060 are you happy with the bullet not seating so far into the case that you are sacrificing powder capacity?
I wonder if most guys like the shorter freebore so they can get close to the lands with shorter bullets? I see trade offs and I am trying to decide which way to go there.
What did you have it chambered in? How much Freebore did you select on that one? I see they have a couple choices on some 6.5 barrels. Is there plenty of bullet seated into the case neck with the berger 140 if you were to get closer to the lands? And when jumping it .060 are you happy with the bullet not seating so far into the case that you are sacrificing powder capacity?
I wonder if most guys like the shorter freebore so they can get close to the lands with shorter bullets? I see trade offs and I am trying to decide which way to go there.
I'm new to this whole process of re-barreling. It usually seems cost prohibitive to me. For those of you in the know, would this be a good route for me to go to convert one of my Tikkas or Remington 700s into a 280 Ackley. I've actually got a couple of extra 270s and 30-06s sitting around in both the Tikka and 700. I'm having difficulty finding a 280 Ackley that fits my needs without spending over a grand. Ya, I know I could buy a Savage; but, I don't want one. So, back to my original question. Thanks in advance.
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So, I have been planning this build for awhile now. I chose a tikka action for several reasons. First, I love the feel of them. Second, the tolerances are tight enough from the factory that a lot of smiths won't true them. Finally, tikka actions are one size fits all. Long actions are the same length as short actions. The only difference is the bolt stop. Mine was originally a 270. When I rebarreled it, I left it as a long action and use the long action mags, which incidentally are the same length as the short action but don't have a plug at the back. This gives me enough room in my magazine to load my 6.5 creedmoor as long as I like.
As for the barrel. I ordered a proof research carbon fiber 22 inch in 6.5 creedmoor. I ordered the chamber to their specs, which I believe is the SAMMI standard chamber size. I have been super happy with this build. It is light accurate and has gone together super easy. I've had no feeding issues using long action mags with a short action caliber (possibly partly due to tikka long action mags being notoriously short). I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.
I think it's a great option, but I've only built one gun this way so far. I can only speak to tikkas , since I haven't done a barrel replacement on my Remington 700... yet.... However, proof prefits for tikkas are shouldered. A testament to tikka's high level of factory consistancy. Proof makes a great barrel, and I think they even have a LEO military discount on top of it. If you already have a tikka and the tools you need a barrel swap should be quick, easy, and affordable.
Well, I am military so that's a good starting point. I don't think I have the tools so, do you have any idea, approximately, as to what a smith charges to do such an install. I know that every smith is different and if I need to find one, I will. I speculate there is a charge to remove the old barrel, a charge to install the new barrel and verify headspace etc. Thanks for the previous reply and any other insight you can provide.
I'm not sure of the exact costs from a Smith. I wouldn't expect more than a couple hundred bucks at most for a rebarrel. Especially if they aren't clambering it, and only doing a swap. My total parts cost me around 150 dollars I think. Barrel vise was $40, internal action wrench was $60, headspace gauges were $50 total. However, I used a bench vise as an external action wrench and cut a relief in my barrel to remove it, because tikka barrels are stupid tight. Because I cut a relief i wasn't able to save the barrel. No biggie for me. I expect it would be cheaper to have a smith put on the barrel. In my case it was more advantageous for the long run since I plan on doing this again.
You can buy all of the parts and tools to do a barrel nut prefit yourself from northland shooters supply plus a viper barrel vice for basically the same amount you would pay someone else put a new barrel on for you, around 600-700.
But the tools you get to keep and the next prefit is only 450.
And lots of places make the barrel nut prefit for about that same amount, I do the northland/criterion and patriot valley/rock creek prefits and they are both good choices.
But the difference is you get a great shooting barrel instead of a mediocre factory barrel.
