Tikka T3 barrel removal.

[Sako man]

Some take aways after struggling with a tikka barrel. I have tried several different methods over a period of days, and I understand what works now. There really is a process and if you don't follow it there will be a struggle, or worse, a broken action and or marred finish. Follow this and you probably won't have to do a relief cut. I know there are some threads on this but here you go anyhow.

1. have the correct tools for the job. I would not rely on an internal action wrench, try to get a hold of an action wrench like the wheeler #1, that has a big flat area to grab lots of surface on the Tikka actions. a rubber or plastic mallet is a must. The addition of a cheater bar and barrel vise are going to be key. Get some powder resin, this will be important for the barrel vice to get the right amount of grip.

2. Take your time, meaning get things set up correctly. Use some WD40 and shoot plenty of it around the inside of the barrel where it meets the action, let the barrel sit for a day or two with the barrel pointing down so the oil sinks into the action threads. It will penetrate given enough time. This stage is crucial as the oil will allow the threads to break free. This step will make your life a lot easier, trust me.... once I had my action free I could see the oil had penetrated all the way through. Prior to this step it was nearly impossible getting the action off.

3. Use a generous amount of resin inside the barrel vise surface, and make sure to tighten the barrel vice down with as much force as possible, it must be very tight, as tight as possible. A little painters tape or even duct tape on the contacting surface might help prevent some marring, but if done correctly marring will be avoided.

4. Once barrel is in vice and action wrench is torqued on to action, try torquing the action off, some good taps from a mallet on the action wrench where it meets the action while working the action wrench handle will provide some shock to knock things loose. Do not go with powerful whacks, this is over doing it. If the action is not budging try this with the addition of a cheater bar. If the barrel is rotating in the vice, it's too lose and needs further tightening. If it's tight and you follow these steps the action/barrel will separate.



Good luck and may the Schwartz be with you!

 

[Bakwa]

Sticky this.
Excellent advise.

 

[brazz04]

It's wild how different some experiences are with the tikkas. I took my new CTR apart about a month ago using a mechforce barrel vise and the wheeler number 1, tightened it down and pulled on the action wrench and it came off with no issue. Also I had read the stories of the pic rail being a disaster to come off, and mine came off just like any other rail, no crazy glue or stripped bolts. Maybe this is how the newest ones are coming out of the factory now?

 

[supercorndogs]

Same kind of experience with many different examples of the same fasteners. Sometimes they pull out liked a greased rag, and sometimes your left to wonder if there is weld you need to grind off or something.

 

[Foul Mike]

I think I would use Kroil or something like it over WD-40. I'm not a fan of WD-40 for a penetrating oil.

 

[JGR1953]

Another thing to keep in mind and it's been discussed in the forum before.
Do not put anymore force on the external action wrench bolts than is needed to keep the clamp from moving and marring the outside of the action.
If you clamp it too tight all you are doing is compressing the action and barrel threads together making it harder to spin off......

 

[spife7980]

I’m curious on if this is a new action or not. I’ve heard of some only barrels coming out showing that they were glued in like the rails were glued on.

 

[wade2big]

Another thing to keep in mind and it's been discussed in the forum before.
Do not put anymore force on the external action wrench bolts than is needed to keep the clamp from moving and marring the outside of the action.
If you clamp it too tight all you are doing is compressing the action and barrel threads together making it harder to spin off......

I noticed the OP said torque the action wrench bolts. This is incorrect and what I believe is the mistake people are making. Finger tighten the bolts while wiggling the handle until all the slack is out. A simple pop with the palm of my hand on the wrench handle has broken loose three Tikka barrels for me.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE ACTION WRENCH BOLTS!!

 

[Sako man]

I noticed the OP said torque the action wrench bolts. This is incorrect and what I believe is the mistake people are making. Finger tighten the bolts while wiggling the handle until all the slack is out. A simple pop with the palm of my hand on the wrench handle has broken loose three Tikka barrels for me.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE ACTION WRENCH BOLTS!!

If you are simply popping barrels with a slap of your palm then you are a lucky guy. I am not saying I don't believe you, but it does not line up with my experience. In general the T3X actions are notoriously tight. You finger tighten and the action wrench could slip. I torqued to about 5 foot pounds which did not compress the action, nor did it allow for slipping or marring. If you simply finger tighten the bolts come loose when tapping the action wrench with the mallet during the shocking and loosening phase. That wrench comes loose and you have for sure marred the action.

 

[wade2big]

If you are simply popping barrels with a slap of your palm then you are a lucky guy. I am not saying I don't believe you, but it does not line up with my experience. In general the T3X actions are notoriously tight. You finger tighten and the action wrench could slip. I torqued to about 5 foot pounds which did not compress the action, nor did it allow for slipping or marring. If you simply finger tighten the bolts come loose when tapping the action wrench with the mallet during the shocking and loosening phase. That wrench comes loose and you have for sure marred the action.

The action has flats. The wrench won’t slip hand tight with all the slack removed. If you bumped ever so slightly with a wrench to feel a bit better like you said then I’m sure it wouldn’t make a difference.

All three T3x broke with just a bump with my palm. I was literally prepared for war considering everything I read. Two were CTRs and one was a light. I also broke 2 Sako TRG barrels which I read where monsters. I held tension on the action wrench with one hand and two to three moderate wraps on the action handle with a rubber mallet and the barrels spun off. I can’t relate to what you guys are dealing with. I have one more that may get done soon. Maybe that one will be tighter. I doubt it.

 

[Sako man]

The action has flats. The wrench won’t slip hand tight with all the slack removed. If you bumped ever so slightly with a wrench to feel a bit better like you said then I’m sure it wouldn’t make a difference.

All three T3x broke with just a bump with my palm. I was literally prepared for war considering everything I read. Two were CTRs and one was a light. I also broke 2 Sako TRG barrels which I read where monsters. I held tension on the action wrench with one hand and two to three moderate wraps on the action handle with a rubber mallet and the barrels spun off. I can’t relate to what you guys are dealing with. I have one more that may get done soon. Maybe that one will be tighter. I doubt it.

Did you soak in oil prior to going at it?
When I said torque, I didn't mean 50 foot pounds so that needs to be clarified, more like 5 foot pounds.

 

[wade2big]

Did you soak in oil prior to going at it?
When I said torque, I didn't mean 50 foot pounds so that needs to be clarified, more like 5 foot pounds.

I didn’t do anything. The only reason I hit the wrench with my palm was just checking the action wrench. The damn barrel spun free. I thought the barrel slipped in my vice because surely I needed a blow torch, 4’ cheater and a relief cut. No. After that I just did the same to the others with the same result.

 

[wade2big]

The mistake I made when I changed out the barrels on my Tikkas was changing out the barrels on my Tikkas. They weren’t shot out. They were taken off and sold cheaply here with just a few rounds down the pipe. Silly me.

 

[Sako man]

The mistake I made when I changed out the barrels on my Tikkas was changing out the barrels on my Tikkas. They weren’t shot out. They were taken off and sold cheaply here with just a few rounds down the pipe. Silly me.

Tikka barrels are excellent and as good as the Sako TRG barrels, same factory. I had to change mine as I had barrel worms from filiform corrosion. Otherwise I would have kept it on.

 

[TheDave]

I think I would use Kroil or something like it over WD-40. I'm not a fan of WD-40 for a penetrating oil.

WD-40 is a placebo and only exists because our grandpas didn't have the internet. If you can't use heat, then liquid wrench is about the only thing makes a tiny bit of difference.

 

[Sako man]

WD-40 is a placebo and only exists because our grandpas didn't have the internet. If you can't use heat, then liquid wrench is about the only thing makes a tiny bit of difference.

Sure, use what ever works for you. WD40 works for me. Liquid wrench might be good?

 

[wade2big]

The action has flats. The wrench won’t slip hand tight with all the slack removed. If you bumped ever so slightly with a wrench to feel a bit better like you said then I’m sure it wouldn’t make a difference.

All three T3x broke with just a bump with my palm. I was literally prepared for war considering everything I read. Two were CTRs and one was a light. I also broke 2 Sako TRG barrels which I read where monsters. I held tension on the action wrench with one hand and two to three moderate wraps on the action handle with a rubber mallet and the barrels spun off. I can’t relate to what you guys are dealing with. I have one more that may get done soon. Maybe that one will be tighter. I doubt it.

@Sako man
I broke the barrel off of a Tikka T3X lite in 300wm this morning. I finally found a tight one like several of you come across. I had to really crank down on my barrel vise and beat the heck out of the action wrench handle with a rubber mallet. I was swinging the thing like I was trying to hit a fastball. It did break free and still didn’t take more than a few minutes but it was much tighter than what I previously encountered by a decent margin.

 

[Baron23]

The WD in WD-40 stands for, as most of you know, water displacement....formula try #40.

It is not a penetrating oil. For penetrating oil, I like Kroil but I'm not an expert in these products so there may be something out there that's better.

Dunno about Tikka and Sako barrel removal, but my friend @GBMaryland does and I believe it took a relief cut to get a barrel off. Seems like difficult of removing barrels with these brands is sort of all over the place from smack with palm to 10 ton press! ;-) haha

 

[GBMaryland]

The Sako/Tikka receivers are warmed up and the barrels are chilled and then screwed in.

This makes removing The OEM barrel from the receiver extremely difficult.

The procedure seems to be cutting a relief in the barrel right in front of the receiver so that the metal will spring forward and the barrel will come off.

Barrels installed after that are easier to get off and don’t require that.

 

[GBMaryland]

Tikka barrels are excellent and as good as the Sako TRG barrels, same factory. I had to change mine as I had barrel worms from filiform corrosion. Otherwise I would have kept it on.

Tikka barrels are not as good as Sako TRG barrels.

I learned this by shooting solid copper rounds out of a Tilka barrel only to find it patterned at somewhere around 20 inches at 100 yards.

In contrast, the Sako TRG barrels shoot solid copper rounds without issue and with fantastic group size.

This means that there is significant blow-by in the Tikka barrels with is an indication of inconsistent rifling.

The funny part was that the OEM Tikka barrel shot lead core rounds beautifully. However, they are malleable and will fill lans and grooves while traveling the constantly inconsistent rifling.

Sako TRGs don’t have this issue.

 

[Sako man]

Tikka barrels are not as good as Sako TRG barrels.

I learned this by shooting solid copper rounds out of a Tilka barrel only to find it patterned at somewhere around 20 inches at 100 yards.

I’m contrast, the Sako TRG barrels shoot solid copper rounds without issue and with fantastic group size.

This means that there is significant blow-by in the Tikka barrels with is an indication of inconsistent rifling.

The funny part was that the OEM Tikka barrel shot lead core rounds beautifully. However, they are malleable and will fill lans and grooves while traveling the constantly inconsistent rifling.

Sako TRGs don’t have this issue.

Ok then. Yes, my experience with lead core only suggests identical accuracy. Not sure how or why solids would perform any different?

 

[GBMaryland]

The rifling in standard Tikka barrels is inconsistent in that it it’s larger than nominal bullet size at certain points in the rifling.

As the bullet travels down the barrel it engages the lans and grooves…

However on certain manufacturers barrels there is not a perfect consistency down the length of the barrels in the distance between each side of the barrel. In other words, the bore gets slightly bigger in some places and then returns to normal.

The problem with this is that the copper solids don’t compress to fill those areas where the board is larger than it should be. What happens as a result is gases below by the bullet because it isn’t exactly ,say, 308.

On the flipside, a lead core copper jacketed bullet traveling down the barrel will have a significant amount of pressure behind it.

The lead core is very malleable and it will expand under pressure to fill the bore at all times. This prevents blow by and allows the barrel to shoot fairly well. One supposes that if the end of the barrel is the proper diameter then the bullet will come out in the proper diameter as it was intended to fly with. Which is why the Tikka barrel that I pulled off my rifle shot lead rounds pretty well but didn’t shoot solid coppers worth a damn. Also, don’t forget that the copper bullets will not return to their proper size once crushed by an overly restrictive bore should they encounter one…

Conversely, the OEM TRG 42 A1, and the other three TRG‘s I’ve owned over the years, shoot solids flawlessly.

Believe it or not, shooting solid copper bullets is an excellent test of how well a barrel is made.

If you can’t get a group with a solid copper round, then the quality of your barrel is questionable.

The proof carbon fiber barrel that ended up on my Tikka also shoots solid copper bullets without a problem. (The OEM Tikka barrel had less than 1000 rounds on it…)

 

[rothgyr]

I've done 4 or 5 tikkas with a viper vise and wheeler #1. Since the stock tikka barrel's shoulder is tapered, the viper vise can match its contour and actually grip it. If you try and use a different vise, I think you'll have a hard time. Also, time the gun so you can just lift with your legs, and a hammer isn't really necessary.

 

[CarbonMTN]

All Tikka action are the same, right?

Like if I want to change my 223 varmint to a 22 CM. I could either open up the bolt face to accept the 6.5 CM bolt face OR could I just order that fancy new bolt from LRI and slide that bad boy in?

 

[srt-4_uk]

Yes. But don't open up that 223 bolt face. People will happily buy it from you.

 

[XLR308]

One quick question for those of you who have removed the T3 lite profile barrels.
I am not quite to the point of removing my 270win barrel but pretty much have everything I think is needed and do not want to begin the process until I feel I have every base covered.
I have an overbuilt action wrench I made and have no doubts about it being adequate my doubt is with the Viper vise.
Not it's quality or strength but griping the small profile barrel.
Do I need to wrap the barrel to get a better purchase on its smaller diameter or use some type of bushing or try and clamp closer to the reciever ?
I don't recall it being mentioned for removing the lite profile barrels since most here are starting with the heavier profiles to begin with.
Just looking for recommendations so I can possibly save myself some time or headache through the process.

 

[MarinePMI]

One quick question for those of you who have removed the T3 lite profile barrels.
I am not quite to the point of removing my 270win barrel but pretty much have everything I think is needed and do not want to begin the process until I feel I have every base covered.
I have an overbuilt action wrench I made and have no doubts about it being adequate my doubt is with the Viper vise.
Not it's quality or strength but griping the small profile barrel.
Do I need to wrap the barrel to get a better purchase on its smaller diameter or use some type of bushing or try and clamp closer to the reciever ?
I don't recall it being mentioned for removing the lite profile barrels since most here are starting with the heavier profiles to begin with.
Just looking for recommendations so I can possibly save myself some time or headache through the process.

View attachment 8419550

A lot of guys will use rosin (baseball supply at walmart) or plain old white sugar (dust the barrel with it before tightening the vise around the barrel). This will help the vise to grip the barrel. If it slips though, you'll need to loosen things up, reapply and retighten.

I've heard the newer Tikkas aren't torqued on as tight as the earlier ones, so hopefully you won't run into any issues.

 

[Sako man]

One quick question for those of you who have removed the T3 lite profile barrels.
I am not quite to the point of removing my 270win barrel but pretty much have everything I think is needed and do not want to begin the process until I feel I have every base covered.
I have an overbuilt action wrench I made and have no doubts about it being adequate my doubt is with the Viper vise.
Not it's quality or strength but griping the small profile barrel.
Do I need to wrap the barrel to get a better purchase on its smaller diameter or use some type of bushing or try and clamp closer to the reciever ?
I don't recall it being mentioned for removing the lite profile barrels since most here are starting with the heavier profiles to begin with.
Just looking for recommendations so I can possibly save myself some time or headache through the process.

View attachment 8419550

Clamp as close to the reciever as possible, of course you can't grab on too much of a curve of the barrel so tighten on as much surface area as possible. Use some thick cardboard shims with rosin so you don't mar the barrel. I highly recommend using WD40 on the barrel/reciever joint and let it sit verticle for at least 24hour, repeat a few squirts over six hour intervals or at least three times during the 24 hour period, you would be astounded how far the WD40 penetrates into the threads. Give it a shot after these steps are completed. The WD40 part is crucial. Both my TacA1s were a bear until I got this process correct.

 

[XLR308]

Clamp as close to the reciever as possible, of course you can't grab on too much of a curve of the barrel so tighten on as much surface area as possible. Use some thick cardboard shims with rosin so you don't mar the barrel. I highly recommend using WD40 on the barrel/reciever joint and let it sit verticle for at least 24hour, repeat a few squirts over six hour intervals or at least three times during the 24 hour period, you would be astounded how far the WD40 penetrates into the threads. Give it a shot after these steps are completed. The WD40 part is crucial. Both my TacA1s were a bear until I got this process correct.

I have liquid wrench penetrating oil, the original stuff not the aerosol crap and I know how well it works.
My main concern was getting enough purchase on the lite profile barrel.
Might just do a test run and verify, I have also been eyeing the SAC vice with the Tikka lite bushings since I'm a tool whore.

 

[Sako man]

I have also been eyeing the SAC vice with the Tikka lite bushings since I'm a tool whore.

Well then it's all set. For smaller diameter barrels I like to cut a cardboard tube like for holding posters, it's thick and tough and I make the bushings/shims out of that, once the rosin is on there it gets really grippy. But you should whore on if you think it will give you more grip.

 

[Praeger]

One quick question for those of you who have removed the T3 lite profile barrels.
I am not quite to the point of removing my 270win barrel but pretty much have everything I think is needed and do not want to begin the process until I feel I have every base covered.
I have an overbuilt action wrench I made and have no doubts about it being adequate my doubt is with the Viper vise.
Not it's quality or strength but griping the small profile barrel.
Do I need to wrap the barrel to get a better purchase on its smaller diameter or use some type of bushing or try and clamp closer to the reciever ?
I don't recall it being mentioned for removing the lite profile barrels since most here are starting with the heavier profiles to begin with.
Just looking for recommendations so I can possibly save myself some time or headache through the process.

View attachment 8419550

A couple of points. First, the Viper is a decent vise but from my experience the coating limits it's grip at the limits. Second, roughly half the Tikka factory barrels I've removed have required a relief groove to be cut just past the shoulder to relieve some of the tension. Lastly, and this is not unique to Tikka, is when certain barrel/action phosphate coatings are applied, there can be a chemical reaction that allows salts to form/migrate into the barrel tenon threads which act as a thread lock.

You might get a barrel that pops loose - I hope that's your case. However, be prepared to abandon removing the barrel without getting on the lathe and cutting a relief groove. You can permanently twist the action with an action wrench if you apply enough force.

 

[Praeger]

Barrel popped off after cutting the relief groove.

 

[XLR308]

A couple of points. First, the Viper is a decent vise but from my experience the coating limits it's grip at the limits. Second, roughly half the Tikka factory barrels I've removed have required a relief groove to be cut just past the shoulder to relieve some of the tension. Lastly, and this is not unique to Tikka, is when certain barrel/action phosphate coatings are applied, there can be a chemical reaction that allows salts to form/migrate into the barrel tenon threads which act as a thread lock.

You might get a barrel that pops loose - I hope that's your case. However, be prepared to abandon removing the barrel without getting on the lathe and cutting a relief groove. You can permanently twist the action with an action wrench if you apply enough force.

Thanks for the tips, mine is just standard blueing so no phosphate.
I have read every thread on the topic here and other forums just to see what gremlins others have experienced.
I feel like I have a good plan of attack I just don't want to damage my Viper vise since it's my primary for barrel swaps on my kelbly actions and prefer not to do any damage to my 270win barrel since it's a good shooting barrel and would like the flexibility to swap it back in if I want.
Once I get a 308win barrel for the swap I will definitely share my experience good, bad or ugly.

 

[wade2big]

Thanks for the tips, mine is just standard blueing so no phosphate.
I have read every thread on the topic here and other forums just to see what gremlins others have experienced.
I feel like I have a good plan of attack I just don't want to damage my Viper vise since it's my primary for barrel swaps on my kelbly actions and prefer not to do any damage to my 270win barrel since it's a good shooting barrel and would like the flexibility to swap it back in if I want.
Once I get a 308win barrel for the swap I will definitely share my experience good, bad or ugly.

Just snug the action wrench onto the action. Do not over tighten as it will add pressure to the barrel threads underneath. Tighten the barrel in the vice to where the action wrench handle is parallel with the floor. Hold solid pressure on the action wrench handle with one hand while rapping the action wrench handle sharply with a heavy rubber mallet held in the other.

I have broken several Tikka barrels with some breaking free with jus hitting the action wrench handle with the palm of my hand to a few requiring nothing more than one or two raps with a rubber mallet. Factory TRG barrels took a few more hits with a mallet but also gave no trouble. I bet you will be fine.

 

[XLR308]

Just snug the action wrench onto the action. Do not over tighten as it will add pressure to the barrel threads underneath. Tighten the barrel in the vice to where the action wrench handle is parallel with the floor. Hold solid pressure on the action wrench handle with one hand while rapping the action wrench handle sharply with a heavy rubber mallet held in the other.

I have broken several Tikka barrels with some breaking free with jus hitting the action wrench handle with the palm of my hand to a few requiring nothing more than one or two raps with a rubber mallet. Factory TRG barrels took a few more hits with a mallet but also gave no trouble. I bet you will be fine.

I'm totally aware of the mechanical clamping force that can be applied with minimal torque and have read your posts on this particular topic several times.
Greatly appreciate you and others sharing the collective experience and knowledge on the topic.
I have a habit of over thinking and over planing things that turn out to be a fairly simple process but have also been bit in the ass for not doing so as well.
My plan is to mock everything up first and verify the barrel vice will adequately hold since I believe that will be the weak link.
After satisfied I will let some liquid wrench soak into the threads and then place the barreled action in the freezer over night.
Pull the chilled BA out lightly warm up the action over the tennon thread and as you suggested apply pressure to the action wrench and give it a couple of wacks with a dead blow if needed.

 

[wade2big]

I'm totally aware of the mechanical clamping force that can be applied with minimal torque and have read your posts on this particular topic several times.
Greatly appreciate you and others sharing the collective experience and knowledge on the topic.
I have a habit of over thinking and over planing things that turn out to be a fairly simple process but have also been bit in the ass for not doing so as well.
My plan is to mock everything up first and verify the barrel vice will adequately hold since I believe that will be the weak link.
After satisfied I will let some liquid wrench soak into the threads and then place the barreled action in the freezer over night.
Pull the chilled BA out lightly warm up the action over the tennon thread and as you suggested apply pressure to the action wrench and give it a couple of wacks with a dead blow if needed.

I didn’t realize I already said my peace in this thread. Just read it back. I wouldn’t have chimed in again. Oh well, said it again.

I do remember the one that I mentioned earlier in this thread. It was the tightest by far but still nothing to it once I cranked down on the vice. Good luck with it.

 

[XLR308]

I didn’t realize I already said my peace in this thread. Just read it back. I wouldn’t have chimed in again. Oh well, said it again.

I do remember the one that I mentioned earlier in this thread. It was the tightest by far but still nothing to it once I cranked down on the vice. Good luck with it.

Still appreciated and thanks for the info.