Tikka T3 Picture Thread.

#351
T3 Varmint 223. This baby has done some serious population damage to the squeeks in NE California. Here's what you can do with an air brush, some Duracoat and a handful of weeds... ;)

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#355
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#356
Stpilot12 said:
T3 Varmint 223. This baby has done some serious population damage to the squeeks in NE California. Here's what you can do with an air brush, some Duracoat and a handful of weeds... ;)

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STpilot12,

Is that the factory Tikka stock?!?

Well done, indeed!

I'm new to the site, though been reading and learning from you folks for the past few years. Thank you!

Joined so I could contact John for the Swept Ball bolt handles I need as I just purchased a Lite SS 308 as well as a Lite Hunter 308, and have a pre-order on the upcoming CTR 308.

Do you folks see any need to bed the original stocks in 308, or will replacing the recoil lug to steel suffice?

And absolutely, once my local smith is done cerakoting the SS with requested colors, I'll be contributing to this great thread.
 
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#359
6.5BR said:
As good as T-3s shoot, WHY replace what is not broke? Re: lug...
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Thanks 5.6BR!

The reason I brought it up is due to the contradicting information I've been reading where one group states the aluminum is the week point and replacing it with a steel lug would be ideal for longevity.

I am new to bolt rifles, and am grateful for any advice in educating me on possible mods that may be required, or perhaps not.

For instance, I'm considering the B&C Medalist due to the full aluminum insert, however others state the factory Tikka composite stock is good to go and well made.

Needless to say, I'm a bit confused as to which direction to take, hence reaching out to you folks for feedback and guidance, before wasting a plethora of money with no subsequent gains obtained.
 
#364
S&L 308 said:
Looking good. What stock is it?

Sendt fra min GT-I9300 med Tapatalk
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Made by my father and myself out of laminated kauri. The paint system is 2 coats epoxy followed by heaps 2 pot epoxy primer. Imperfections filled and all block sanded 150 grit, another coat epoxy primer sanded 240 grit then 2 pot poyurethane as many coats as you want sanded with 1200 to cut back the gloss. He's a boat builder and i'm a panel beater so we were both rather happy with this being out first attempt.
 
#365
Spinedown said:
Made by my father and myself out of laminated kauri. The paint system is 2 coats epoxy followed by heaps 2 pot epoxy primer. Imperfections filled and all block sanded 150 grit, another coat epoxy primer sanded 240 grit then 2 pot poyurethane as many coats as you want sanded with 1200 to cut back the gloss. He's a boat builder and i'm a panel beater so we were both rather happy with this being out first attempt.
Click to expand...


Very nice job [emoji106][emoji106]

Sendt fra min GT-I9300 med Tapatalk
 
#368
Rōnin;3322451 said:
Are the factory composite stocks that inferior? I read many instances where it is refereed too as cheap plastic.
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No , tikkas come with one of the BEST factory stocks of any rifles. They might not look like much, but they free float and are solid. If one was strapped for cash, it would be wise to shoot the stock rifle (CTR for example) while saving up for a chassis. Actual rounds on target performance will be the same.
 
#369
Rōnin;3322451 said:
Are the factory composite stocks that inferior? I read many instances where it is refereed too as cheap plastic.
Click to expand...

This is my experience with this rifle/stock.. YMMV. To call this stock "composite" would be a stretch. Its good'ol plastic, feels like a Daisy.. I know because I took dremel to it and cut the shit outta the barrel channel so it wouldn't touch the barrel. The forend is just flimsy enough that when I would lay the rifle on a bag or use the bipod, it would flex and touch the barrel in several places causing some pretty erratic groups. As an experiment I shimmed up the recoil lug about .006' (IIRC) and took said dremel to it. Viola… 1/2 MOA shooter as all Tikka's should be. Again, to clarify.. this was on my rifle. I have no idea if there are other types of stocks out there on Tikkas. The only other Tikka I've ever touched had a wood stock. Eventually I'll probably put this in a chassis, but for now its just my squirrel gun so I had a little fun with the Duracoat.

Tim
 
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#372
It didn't come like that from Finland. Check out the group buy section, LRI has a special on bolt fluting. Took about 1 week including shipping to/from.
 
#373
#374
My lil Tikka
Tikka Varmint 6mm AI
1-7" twist McGowan Barrel, Medium Palma, threaded with brake
Manners T4
CDI DBM
EGW 20moa Rail
HSS bolt knob and shroud
Factory trigger
Action Cerakoted to match stock

Thinking about selling but it's so accurate I just can't bring myself too it at the moment...

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#375
Is there a consensus cheapest-but-still-worth-it stock upgrade for a T3? I'd love one of those folding tactical setups but I vowed to not spend as much on the stock as the entire rifle. Bell & Carlson sells some for $250-300 and they look decent, anything else?

Why do I want to change? Ripped right through mine while tightening my Harris bipod.
World-class action stuffed in a very cheap stock, but that's better than the other way around so I still love this gun...
 
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#376
The b&c stocks are decent. Those with dbm and you would be set. Something to think about however is the krg x-ray or the XLR element. They are not much more that the b&c after to account for getting it inletted for the bottom metal and getting it bedded.
 
#378
shootin said:
Is there a consensus cheapest-but-still-worth-it stock upgrade for a T3? I'd love one of those folding tactical setups but I vowed to not spend as much on the stock as the entire rifle. Bell & Carlson sells some for $250-300 and they look decent, anything else?

Why do I want to change? Ripped right through mine while tightening my Harris bipod.
World-class action stuffed in a very cheap stock, but that's better than the other way around so I still love this gun...
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LSS chassis forTikka T3
http://mdttac.com/lss-chassis-for-tikka-t3.html

You just need to add magazines and an AR type butstock, easy way to get folding too, no other expenses with inleting DBM .
 
#381
I see most seem to swap out the shroud. Were they breaking or just a good to do since the factory one is plastic? I just picked up two T3 lites, 7mm-08 and 7RM, for hunting purposes.



Hey shootin, the BC stocks are pretty darn good for the price. I have run a few of them under 700 actions. They are solid with no flex in the fore end. I always skim bedded mine as well as around the lug. I never ran a DBM on them but, I do not see why not. The BC, PTG DBM, and inletting would be a reasonably priced way to go.
 
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#384
One was a 243 and the other a 270. I do not know what caused them to crack just found them when cleaning the rifles, but both shrouds had identical cracks. Never ran the bolt hard on either rifle and both had less than 200 rounds through them.
 
#392
Wintermute said:
Here's my Tikka T3 lite SS .308 on an XLR Industries Evolution chassis. Bolt was fluted by Paul (first Tikka bolt he did if I remember correctly). Hinterland Shooting Supply bolt shroud and handle, Atlas bipod, NEAR Mfg. scope base, glass is a Vortex Viper 6.5-20x44 mil/mil. The muzzle brake is a Straight Shot Gunsmithing "V" port Vaporizer 10 deg. I'm hoping to have some grouping shots next month with some decent ammo (trying out Lapua lock base 170gr, Lapua FMJBT 185gr and Federal Premium Sierra Matchking 175gr JHPBT). I should also be sending this rifle out relatively soon to Chad at LongRifles Inc. to have it cerakoted in CADPAT (yeah, I know, I was supposed to do this a bit over a year ago, but life and work got in the way). Finally have some time back to apply to shooting so this'll get done and I'm also picking up an SWFA SS HD 5-20x50 Tactical 30mm scope with illum reticle.

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--Wintermute
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Is that the factory lite barrel contour? How many shots do you get out before it heats up too much?

I'm building one of these with a heavy contour, but due to the difficulty of finding good spots I'm curious about building another into a "hiking-friendly sniper" -- perhaps with an MDT LSS chassis, a really light AR15 stock and the factory contour barrel. I just don't have enough experience with thin contours to know if it would hold groups.
 
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#393
Does anyone know if the T3 action will fit into a Rock Solid chassis? And also seeing as how Tikka's are comparable if not better than R700 actions, why the fuck are there hardly any manufacturers making aftermarket parts for them? It's old seeing the same old shitty CDI bottom metal (my personal opinion) and KRG chassis. Sorry for venting but this shit is getting old. Maybe if some other companies would make products then more people would start using that platform.
 
#394
RobG said:
What sling are you guys running for hunting? I would like something that does not dig into the shoulder and that I can get in to fairly quickly in case I need to sling up for a shot.

Thanks
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Check out OP's sling on page one, and mine on page 2. A VTAC 2 point sling and a simple Uncle Mikes swivel on the left side of the forestock. essentially makes it a side mount sling and you can carry the rifle with the side against your back, or carry in front muzzle down.
 
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