Tikka T3 Thread

I kept mine stock for 2 years and then I decided I really wanted the McRees G10. I think it was a great upgrade that made the rifle a little more consistent in accuracy, not that it was ever bad. I just wanted something more solid and ergonomic in the prone position.

True, well, two years is a decent bit of time to go without modifications for me (just trying to justify saving $ to myself!). I do like the McRee's chasses though; they seem really nice and a decent price. Super stoked about having the barrel change options nowadays,with companies like PVA.
 
Hand loads. Lapua virgin brass, 140 Berger Hybrids, CCI BR primers, and 43.6 grains of H4350. This load averages 2683 in my rifle and is a hammer. Its strange but the load only shoots .6 or so at 100 but will shoot 1 inch at 300.
My go to load was the same but 43.5 grains. I've been loading the 140 ELD match latlely and I don't plan to go back to the Hybrids. They shoot a little better out of my gun and are a hell of a lot cheaper also. Been testing the Nosler rdf as well and I'm getting good results with .060 jump. I've only shot them to 600 so far but I'll be testing them out to 1250 in 2 weeks.

 
True, well, two years is a decent bit of time to go without modifications for me (just trying to justify saving $ to myself!). I do like the McRee's chasses though; they seem really nice and a decent price. Super stoked about having the barrel change options nowadays,with companies like PVA.

I ran the CTR stock for one match and maybe 4-5 range sessions while I tried to make my decision on what was next. During that time I pretty much got my hands on everything I was looking at; KRG, XLR, MPA BA, McRee, Manners, McMillan, Grayboe.

What I began to notice on the CTR stock was that I needed extra LOP, and that the gap between the grip and trigger guard was too wide, maybe the angle of the grip also played a factor in this since it is not vertical but 60 degrees. It seemed difficult to always have the same hand/finger position. Finally, the curved fore-end of the stock made positional shooting interesting to say the least, even with a game changer bag.

I really benefited from the extra weight and rigidness of a chassis, not to mention the adjustable comb height and LOP. If you can save up or find something used on the PX I do not think you will regret getting a chassis. If you do any sort of positional shooting it'll make a huge difference. I really like the McRee and would have gone that route if I had to order from MPA, wait the 8-10 weeks, and pay full retail. But, PVA has the MPA BA comp editions for $860 and have them in stock ready to ship, which made it an easy decision.
 
Is anyone else enjoying their CTR as purchased, without modifications? My only nit-picking-point may be having a vertical grip closer that allows better prone shooting, but this angle may be a better option for using "obstacles". I don't think I'll be doing any modifications or stock/part swapping for a long time, it seems to be pretty much setup in a great way for me.

I shot mine stock for a year or two. It was fine, .5-.6 MOA with hand loads, but I never could get comfortable shooting prone, which is how I usually shoot. I just got a KRG W3. I can now get in a very stable, repeatable position prone. My first two groups were in .2's and .3's. Not sure if it made the gun more accurate or just easier to shoot, but either way it definitely helped.
 
My go to load was the same but 43.5 grains. I've been loading the 140 ELD match latlely and I don't plan to go back to the Hybrids. They shoot a little better out of my gun and are a hell of a lot cheaper also. Been testing the Nosler rdf as well and I'm getting good results with .060 jump. I've only shot them to 600 so far but I'll be testing them out to 1250 in 2 weeks.

Whats your load with the ELD? and are you getting the same velocity? I have been thinking about buying a box.
 
SLCA44Z.png


Top to bottom .243, .223, and two .308's

What are the stocks on the top 2 rifles? Nice selection!
 
This is a one-off carbon prototype I made as a test bed. We can chop and change things to see what we or others like and what not.
It has a slightly shortened forend of our Multipurpose stock, same pistol grip as many like that, comb is lower by maybe 10mm making it easier to bore sight, has the same back adjustable cheek and butt pad spacer system as our E-Tac4 stock. Cheek raiser angles and position in regards to the action as well as the clamp arrangement is the same as an E-Tac4.
Hope to get the production version if it goes ahead down to 800 grams. ~28oz. As in pic.
At the moment I am not sure if the side on view is not a bit boring, handling is fantastic. I shot a crow off that flat bed at 425m with cheap American Eagle 50gr hp and 4 foxes one night under the lamp.
edi
 
I find the factory Tikka handles to have a bit too much 'slop' for my liking though in regards to fitment. Hence why I CNC my own styles from scratch. Cerakote can 'gap fill' to an extent. Im talking small gaps..

Nice work though, and nice rig. Burris scope good?

Yes the Burris scopes are good. Their SCR retical is great. I think they are the best valve in 34mm tube scopes.
 
Hi, new forum member (long-time lurker). Started bolt guns not too long ago and bought a t3x CTR in 308 on recommendation of a knowledgeable friend. Put a Vortex PST 4-16 ffp and a harris on it. Love the rifle and just dropped it into KRG X-ray. Haven't gotten a chance to test the upgrade yet, but seriously looking forward to stretching it out. I've been enjoying seeing the variety of builds and options ya'll have put together!
 

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I have the 20" CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and struggle with 5 shot groups. Everything is bone stock with the exception of the trigger spring. I will shoot 3 super tight shots and then it starts to open up. It goes from the .2's to .7's. The barrel does heat fairly quickly, so maybe I need to wait longer between shots. Also, I notice my stock is touching the barrel up closer to where the action and barrel meet. Do you guys think that could have anything to do with it? I have been eyeing one of those XLR stocks, so maybe it's time to get one of those.
 
I have the 20" CTR in 6.5 Creedmoor and struggle with 5 shot groups. Everything is bone stock with the exception of the trigger spring. I will shoot 3 super tight shots and then it starts to open up. It goes from the .2's to .7's. The barrel does heat fairly quickly, so maybe I need to wait longer between shots. Also, I notice my stock is touching the barrel up closer to where the action and barrel meet. Do you guys think that could have anything to do with it? I have been eyeing one of those XLR stocks, so maybe it's time to get one of those.

My barrel was making contact with the stock 3" out from the receiver. Took some time with a dermel but my groups are more consistent.
 
test with vgy after Photobucket crapped up....
my CTR 308 stainless ready for the next hunting season. with 3-20 PMII and carbon E-Tac4ctr stock


[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/vgy.me\/JghxdI.jpg"}[/IMG2]

edi

Is this stock going to be available in the states?
 
Is this stock going to be available in the states?

At the moment we don't have an agent in the US yet and posting to individuals (legally) seems very difficult / time consuming. It is so much easier posting to the rest of the world. The way it looks it might be easier to ship complete rifles to the US than a stock. At the moment one of our E-Tac 4CTR stocks that was on route to Texas is making it's way back to us due to red tape. Maybe one day we will find out what we have to do... Canada is no problem to ship to from Ireland. From our side there is no problem getting an export licence to US and most other "friendly countries".

edi
 
OK, I feel stupid bur gonna ask anyway. On the TSR-1, why is there a small picatinny rail on the bottom? I have no clue as to its purpose but have to assume there is one. Please advise.

Do you mean the rail in front of the magazine well? That is for mounting things like barricade stops and arc qc mounting pieces for tripod use.
 
Well...sold my Savage 10TR for Tikka T3 308 win. Slapped an aftermarket bolt handle (Lumely Titanium + Carbon Fiber) and aluminum bolt shroud (Atlasworxs) on it with an Insite Arms Heathen (.855). Have a titanium recoil lug to install once my MDT ESS gets here. Will be switching to my Atlas bipod too. Rifle shows promise but I find the angle on the pistol grip on the stock unbearable to shoot with while prone. Going to wait for my ESS and then do an OCW. Previous owner reported 175 smk, 2.85 and 2.875 OAL with 44.3-44.5 being his quick find sweet spot. Of course this post is worthless without pics:
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i.imgur.com\/dJwEVPh.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
Ok, thanks for the update. On a different note, has anyone found a quality, low(ish) cost loaded ammo for their .260 CTRs that they trust to shoot a precision rifle match with? Any luck with Hor. 130ELDM loaded ammo?
 
Prime and Hornady Match are both great options that are reasonably priced and plenty adequate for precision rifle match use. Though Prime is prouder of their .260 offering than their 6.5 Creedmore to the tune of $10 per box. That adds up and I could never understand why, considering that they are loading both calibers with the exact same projectile and .260 cannot be using but maybe 1 grain more powder, if even that.
 
Prime and Hornady Match are both great options that are reasonably priced and plenty adequate for precision rifle match use. Though Prime is prouder of their .260 offering than their 6.5 Creedmore to the tune of $10 per box. That adds up and I could never understand why, considering that they are loading both calibers with the exact same projectile and .260 cannot be using but maybe 1 grain more powder, if even that.

Thanks.. just poking around online, I found some good deals on FGMM, 142gr SMKs. (26.00/20) What is your opinion on this ammo vs Prime and Hor, cost taken into consideration? I have not bought loaded ammo for years, but now have no time to handload!
 
The FGMM .260 are also a good option. My previous barrel liked them just fine, but this barrel is picky and shoots the Prime better. In a newish rifle, I would try all three and see if your barrel had a preference. I buy all of the three when the price is right as just in case backup for my preferred hand loads.

In my opinion all three of these are affordable and shoot able options for match ammo. Again, some barrels are more forgiving and will give better results, so try them in yours and see what works.
 
The FGMM .260 are also a good option. My previous barrel liked them just fine, but this barrel is picky and shoots the Prime better. In a newish rifle, I would try all three and see if your barrel had a preference. I buy all of the three when the price is right as just in case backup for my preferred hand loads.

In my opinion all three of these are affordable and shoot able options for match ammo. Again, some barrels are more forgiving and will give better results, so try them in yours and see what works.

Thank you, I'll give them a whirl..
 
I wasn't sure where to put this...because it's Tikka T3, Gunsmithing, Reloading... everything all in one. I almost put it in Vintage because I hang out there more than in Bolt Action. But as it's based on a Tikka... here is as good a spot as any.

This project started more than three years ago and I started to document it on the Scout Hide. It was the conversion of a Tikka T3 in .223 to a .14/221 Eichelberger. In the reloading/wildcat world, this is called a Subcaliber.

It fascinates me because I always loved the .17's. But somehow going even smaller... with rounds pushed up into the 4,000 - 4500 FPS range seemed even more interesting. So I started the project

Started with a Sako 85. And that rifle proved un-practical for the conversion. So looked at a Tikka T3, which looked like a much better candidate.

I waited a year for a barrel from PacNor in .14 Caliber. And sent to Extreme Accuracy LLC for the barreling. I had to buy my own chamber reamer(s) as well. From ordering the barrel until getting the barreled action was about 18 months. Worth the wait, by the way! Beautiful! Extreme Accuracy fitted the barrel for me and left it threaded so I could install a brake, custom made. The .14 needs a brake about as much as a kitten needs a Lear Jet. But I want one anyway.

I went to Massoud here on the 'Hide and got one of his Whisky 3 stocks. I had worked with Massoud on the early iterations of his Sako TRG stock and I don't think there is any chassis maker on the market that makes a better line of products than Kinetic Research Group. He helped me out with a gorgeous stock... and I had my chassis.

Scope is U.S. Optics. I'm a USO snob. I won't apologize. Doc Mullins, one of the guys we lost in the transition to Scout, was probably one of the greatest contributors to the original SH. Doc76251... if you are out there, you are remembered. He got me drinking the USO Kool-Aid and I have not stopped. Among Tier-one optics, there are a lot of good ones and I would be happy, I am sure, with many of them. But I love the guys at USO. Even the new Regime. And there is nothing else that would do for this rifle.

For a mount, I went with another great 'Hide contributor and got a Sphur mount. Overkill for this project, but I have never had anything but greatest reverance for the guys that created the Sphur mount and for their contributions here. Again, supporting the SH community.

Last, Atlas bipod. Another long-time 'Hide contributer who makes one of the best products out there.

Bolted all together, I finally had a pretty cool rifle.

With one problem. It had feeding problems and would not eject worth a damn. Because the .14 case is so short and tiny... it tended to not want to eject and getting it to feed was, well, impossible.

The KRG chassis works with AI magazines, however. Which were a problem and an opportunity. The problem is that the follower, while perfect for a .223... wanted nothing to do with a .14 Eichelberger. But with some aluminum and a milling machine today, I designed and fitted my own follower. And the rifle now feeds perfectly. The ejection problem also took care of itself with better bolt handling. A good sharp snap to the rear ejects every case perfectly.

Of course, that did not begin to solve the ammo problem! Because when I ordered this, you could not get .14 Eichelberger cases... made from .221 Fireball brass. Today, you can buy them. Two years ago... you had to make your own forming plate. So I did. Used letter-size step drills and my chamber reamer to create a forming plate. And made some rounds. Now I can buy them. I should have waited. But the rounds still will need final fire-forming as the shoulders/necks are a bit on the rough side. But that's standard wildcat practice. And I'll just shoot the first 250 rounds off knowing that I am forming cases, not chasing extreme accuracy.

Today, for the first time, I fired 5 test rounds. And it did not give any issues. So I am now reloading 250 rounds for it. With a 13grain spitzer .14 cal bullet. And 17 grains of 2520. I think it will take more, but until I get all my cases fire-formed, I am going with a light load. There is absolutely zero recoil. Nothing I can feel. 15 pound rifle firing a 13 grain bullet? Well, that soaks things up pretty well. The first 5 rounds all went where I expected them to go. But I was shooting 'minute of pebble' at a rock 80 yards across my farm. Not into a target.

Next steps are fireforming cases and then working up a real accuracy load.

Ok... since this is probably, technically, a pictures thread... here goes. Though I am going to post and then use edit to put up the pictures... I've typed too much here to have a computer freeze and loose all the input.

Pictures below.

20431459_1212551962224782_3009173460972188077_n.jpg

Here is the almost-unrecognizable T3 in all her glory. I forgot to mention the tacticool bolt knob. It's snazzy. Ultimately, I will paint the whole thing to match my Sako duty rifle. Now retired... like me.

[IMG2=JSON]{"alt":"No automatic alt text available.","data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\/v\/t1.0-9\/20376127_1212551948891450_1538840274305206582_n.jpg?oh=fc1e345a22059b6376dd5e69a0af8a39&oe=5A05FE03"}[/IMG2]
The aluminum mag follower that I machined today to feed the .14 rounds. They have to be forward-positioned in the mag to work. A shorter magazine with a spacer would be an ideal solution. But if the rounds are stacked and kept with the tips near the front of the mag, they feed perfectly. Note the sharp upward angle of the follower and the .375" radius trough in the top of it. Made the rounds feed like butter... and also works great in single-shot mode, rolling in rounds one-at-a-time.

20429790_1212552028891442_4111221679374123994_n.jpg


So what is this Eichelberger, you may ask? Here is the 'spec. I used a load for a .14/221 Walker which has a 5 degree different shoulder angle. As I had a lot of 2520 powder on hand. Seems to have worked great. I should be pushing a .13 grain bullet at about 4100 FPS with the load I am using. One of the challenges, BTW, is getting the powder in that little case. So I made myself a brass funnel this afternoon. Bit of lathe work.

20431500_1212552245558087_4383913579508368682_n.jpg

Used a chunk of .750" Brass hex stock to make a funnel. It's very cute. Making funnels on a lathe is a bitch. Too many angles. Kept the hex so it did not roll off the reloading bench on me. BTW, this is the first project in my new reloading room, for those who have followed the thread in Reloading.

20374273_1212552328891412_791018607753408938_n.jpg

60 cute little cases. Note the tiny hole in the top. These things are pixie-sized.

20374667_1212552118891433_6081276212635223852_n.jpg

Pixie sized indeed. On the right is a .223. On the left is a .14/221 Eichelberger, before fire-forming. Overall case length 1.710.

20479724_1212552155558096_1082594876376402053_n.jpg

And because comparisons are fun... here is a 13 grain .14 cal bullet next to a .30 Speer HPBT Match.

I'll get some more pictures posted, I am sure, once I get some testing done. And once I get the rifle painted.

Oh and what does one do with a .14 Eichelberger? It will positively vaporize a squirrel. Furbearers get very tiny holes in them. And egg shoots at 100 yards can be rather spectacular. Energy is mass times velocity squared. These little zippers move along at speeds that are adding energy in a massive fashion.

And besides, it was one of the most fun gunsmithing projects I have undertaken. And involved a lot of great SH people.

Cheers,

Sirhr
 
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I bought a CTRx take off stock and will be building off it soon. Does anyone know what would be the best barrel contour to use in the stock? I will have to have the shank turned down to fit the chamber area but would like something to fill the barrel channel nicely without any other work needing done and be free floating.
 
So after moving my CTR into a KRG W3, I have the old CTR stock sitting around doing nothing. Tried to sell it twice on eBay with no luck. I'm not going to sell it for nothing. I'd rather just keep it for a later project. So...I'm trying to decide what to put in it. Right now I'm thinking a t3 lite in 308 and having the barrel cut back to 18"-20" and threaded for a light, handy, eventually suppressed hunting rifle.

That brings me to my question; What standard barrel contour is the t3 lite comparable to, and is that contour heavy enough to hang a suppressor on?

My second option is a 22-250 varmint, which brings up another question; How does 22-250 feed from the CTR magazines?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I wasn't sure where to put this...because it's Tikka T3, Gunsmithing, Reloading... everything all in one. I almost put it in Vintage because I hang out there more than in Bolt Action. But as it's based on a Tikka... here is as good a spot as any.

This project started more than three years ago and I started to document it on the Scout Hide. It was the conversion of a Tikka T3 in .223 to a .14/221 Eichelberger. In the reloading/wildcat world, this is called a Subcaliber.

It fascinates me because I always loved the .17's. But somehow going even smaller... with rounds pushed up into the 4,000 - 4500 FPS range seemed even more interesting. So I started the project

Started with a Sako 85. And that rifle proved un-practical for the conversion. So looked at a Tikka T3, which looked like a much better candidate.

I waited a year for a barrel from PacNor in .14 Caliber. And sent to Extreme Accuracy LLC for the barreling. I had to buy my own chamber reamer(s) as well. From ordering the barrel until getting the barreled action was about 18 months. Worth the wait, by the way! Beautiful! Extreme Accuracy fitted the barrel for me and left it threaded so I could install a brake, custom made. The .14 needs a brake about as much as a kitten needs a Lear Jet. But I want one anyway.

I went to Massoud here on the 'Hide and got one of his Whisky 3 stocks. I had worked with Massoud on the early iterations of his Sako TRG stock and I don't think there is any chassis maker on the market that makes a better line of products than Kinetic Research Group. He helped me out with a gorgeous stock... and I had my chassis.

Scope is U.S. Optics. I'm a USO snob. I won't apologize. Doc Mullins, one of the guys we lost in the transition to Scout, was probably one of the greatest contributors to the original SH. Doc76251... if you are out there, you are remembered. He got me drinking the USO Kool-Aid and I have not stopped. Among Tier-one optics, there are a lot of good ones and I would be happy, I am sure, with many of them. But I love the guys at USO. Even the new Regime. And there is nothing else that would do for this rifle.

For a mount, I went with another great 'Hide contributor and got a Sphur mount. Overkill for this project, but I have never had anything but greatest reverance for the guys that created the Sphur mount and for their contributions here. Again, supporting the SH community.

Last, Atlas bipod. Another long-time 'Hide contributer who makes one of the best products out there.

Bolted all together, I finally had a pretty cool rifle.

With one problem. It had feeding problems and would not eject worth a damn. Because the .14 case is so short and tiny... it tended to not want to eject and getting it to feed was, well, impossible.

The KRG chassis works with AI magazines, however. Which were a problem and an opportunity. The problem is that the follower, while perfect for a .223... wanted nothing to do with a .14 Eichelberger. But with some aluminum and a milling machine today, I designed and fitted my own follower. And the rifle now feeds perfectly. The ejection problem also took care of itself with better bolt handling. A good sharp snap to the rear ejects every case perfectly.

Of course, that did not begin to solve the ammo problem! Because when I ordered this, you could not get .14 Eichelberger cases... made from .221 Fireball brass. Today, you can buy them. Two years ago... you had to make your own forming plate. So I did. Used letter-size step drills and my chamber reamer to create a forming plate. And made some rounds. Now I can buy them. I should have waited. But the rounds still will need final fire-forming as the shoulders/necks are a bit on the rough side. But that's standard wildcat practice. And I'll just shoot the first 250 rounds off knowing that I am forming cases, not chasing extreme accuracy.

Today, for the first time, I fired 5 test rounds. And it did not give any issues. So I am now reloading 250 rounds for it. With a 13grain spitzer .14 cal bullet. And 17 grains of 2520. I think it will take more, but until I get all my cases fire-formed, I am going with a light load. There is absolutely zero recoil. Nothing I can feel. 15 pound rifle firing a 13 grain bullet? Well, that soaks things up pretty well. The first 5 rounds all went where I expected them to go. But I was shooting 'minute of pebble' at a rock 80 yards across my farm. Not into a target.

Next steps are fireforming cases and then working up a real accuracy load.

Ok... since this is probably, technically, a pictures thread... here goes. Though I am going to post and then use edit to put up the pictures... I've typed too much here to have a computer freeze and loose all the input.

Pictures below.

20431459_1212551962224782_3009173460972188077_n.jpg

Here is the almost-unrecognizable T3 in all her glory. I forgot to mention the tacticool bolt knob. It's snazzy. Ultimately, I will paint the whole thing to match my Sako duty rifle. Now retired... like me.

[IMG2=JSON]{"alt":"No automatic alt text available.","data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net\/v\/t1.0-9\/20376127_1212551948891450_1538840274305206582_n.jpg?oh=fc1e345a22059b6376dd5e69a0af8a39&oe=5A05FE03"}[/IMG2]
The aluminum mag follower that I machined today to feed the .14 rounds. They have to be forward-positioned in the mag to work. A shorter magazine with a spacer would be an ideal solution. But if the rounds are stacked and kept with the tips near the front of the mag, they feed perfectly. Note the sharp upward angle of the follower and the .375" radius trough in the top of it. Made the rounds feed like butter... and also works great in single-shot mode, rolling in rounds one-at-a-time.

20429790_1212552028891442_4111221679374123994_n.jpg


So what is this Eichelberger, you may ask? Here is the 'spec. I used a load for a .14/221 Walker which has a 5 degree different shoulder angle. As I had a lot of 2520 powder on hand. Seems to have worked great. I should be pushing a .13 grain bullet at about 4100 FPS with the load I am using. One of the challenges, BTW, is getting the powder in that little case. So I made myself a brass funnel this afternoon. Bit of lathe work.

20431500_1212552245558087_4383913579508368682_n.jpg

Used a chunk of .750" Brass hex stock to make a funnel. It's very cute. Making funnels on a lathe is a bitch. Too many angles. Kept the hex so it did not roll off the reloading bench on me. BTW, this is the first project in my new reloading room, for those who have followed the thread in Reloading.

20374273_1212552328891412_791018607753408938_n.jpg

60 cute little cases. Note the tiny hole in the top. These things are pixie-sized.

20374667_1212552118891433_6081276212635223852_n.jpg

Pixie sized indeed. On the right is a .223. On the left is a .14/221 Eichelberger, before fire-forming. Overall case length 1.710.

20479724_1212552155558096_1082594876376402053_n.jpg

And because comparisons are fun... here is a 13 grain .14 cal bullet next to a .30 Speer HPBT Match.

I'll get some more pictures posted, I am sure, once I get some testing done. And once I get the rifle painted.

Oh and what does one do with a .14 Eichelberger? It will positively vaporize a squirrel. Furbearers get very tiny holes in them. And egg shoots at 100 yards can be rather spectacular. Energy is mass times velocity squared. These little zippers move along at speeds that are adding energy in a massive fashion.

And besides, it was one of the most fun gunsmithing projects I have undertaken. And involved a lot of great SH people.

Cheers,

Sirhr

That is a super cool gun and caliber.
 
So after moving my CTR into a KRG W3, I have the old CTR stock sitting around doing nothing. Tried to sell it twice on eBay with no luck. I'm not going to sell it for nothing. I'd rather just keep it for a later project. So...I'm trying to decide what to put in it. Right now I'm thinking a t3 lite in 308 and having the barrel cut back to 18"-20" and threaded for a light, handy, eventually suppressed hunting rifle.

That brings me to my question; What standard barrel contour is the t3 lite comparable to, and is that contour heavy enough to hang a suppressor on?

My second option is a 22-250 varmint, which brings up another question; How does 22-250 feed from the CTR magazines?

Thanks in advance for the help.

If you are going to use CTR magazine on your T3 rifle, if that rifle is 308,22-250 you need to modified the bolt release button.
Becase in CTR it is a bit different than it is on normal T3 short caliper rifles, on CTR it is same model as it is on LONG cartridge actions.
Bolt wont go back enough, so you need to buy the long model action release button, or mod that button you have.

http://aijaa.com/BvJAsM

after mod release button looks like this.

http://aijaa.com/sveaLJ

And the bolt goes nicely to the back, and feets the CTR magazine.

http://aijaa.com/b0IvP9
 
It was a pretty meticulous build. But a lot of it was about patience... and getting some great products from some of the best vendors on SH. So a team effort and a bit of a showcase. Since here and in another thread, I've gotten some great questions about sub-caliber shooting... here are a couple of resources:

www.saubier.com is the 'go-to' shooting site. They have lots of info/resources.

And below is a supplier of dies, some brass, etc.

It's a whole different world of shooting. Tiny bullets at utterly insane velocities. It's pushing the envelope of ballistics in the other direction from the 'big boys.'

I think, too, that there could be a tactical role for these little guys. At LE ranges of <100 yards typically there is potential for massive energy transfer, but no shoot-through. But I doubt anyone has ever studied the tactical applications for a sub-caliber. Probably a good Masters Thesis in there for someone.

Cheers,

Sirhr

 
So after moving my CTR into a KRG W3, I have the old CTR stock sitting around doing nothing. Tried to sell it twice on eBay with no luck. I'm not going to sell it for nothing. I'd rather just keep it for a later project. So...I'm trying to decide what to put in it. Right now I'm thinking a t3 lite in 308 and having the barrel cut back to 18"-20" and threaded for a light, handy, eventually suppressed hunting rifle.

That brings me to my question; What standard barrel contour is the t3 lite comparable to, and is that contour heavy enough to hang a suppressor on?

My second option is a 22-250 varmint, which brings up another question; How does 22-250 feed from the CTR magazines?

Thanks in advance for the help.

I put my T3 22-250 varmint in the CTR T3x take off. The issues I have experienced include the varmint barrel profile is slightly larger requiring a little sanding. And for feeding I tap the mag once loaded so the rounds are sitting forward in the mag, to clarify I end up with a little gap maybe 1/8" between the back inside wall of the mag and the case. Other than that no modifications and no other issues so far.
 
Look what I picked up today and am waiting to get off of work to open:

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Something different that I noticed on the box tag. It says .260 WIN Stainless.

So either that is a new caliber or it is a new type of stainless...
 

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