Guys I just picked up a Tikka T3 Varmit in .223 to use as a trainer and to save barrels on my other rigs. I have been doing alot of research but want to know from the guys that run Tikka what to upgrade first. What is prone to breakage on these rifles? Besides dies, brass, and some bullets I think the first order needs to be a Manners T4 or a KRG chassis. I am also wondering about an alloy replacment for the factory bottom metal to fit the T4 so I can run the factory mags. I also want to upgrade the bolt handle, bolt shroud, and recoil lug to a meltal units from Mountain Tactical. I need this rig to be as robust as possible as I plan I shooting it the most. As far as handloads go my rifle has the original 8" twist so I was looking to use the 77gr MK or the 75gr Berger VLD with varget as it is the only fast powder I have on hand at the moment. Give me a little direction on this project If you can.
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Tikka T3 upgrades
- Thread starter backcountryguide
- Start date
Well in my opinion, you picked up a great rifle! Here is the same T3 Varmint .223 with upgrades and some load info for ya.
Tikka T3 .223 Varmint 8twist
KRG W3C Gen 4 Chassis (includes S.S. recoil lug)
AICS Polymer .223 Mags
Melonited bolt
EGW HD 20MOA Scope Base (pinned to action, heard of people having issues with the bases moving around that aren't pinned, dunno if there is any truth to that)
HSS (Hinterland Shooting Supplies) Shroud
Vortex Precision Matched 30MM Rings (med.)
Vortex PST HS/LR 4-16X50 FFP w/ XLR Reticle
AAC SDN-6 Suppressor, but being upgraded to TBAC 30BA & new .223CB Brake
As far as loads go, I have been running the 80gr Berger VLD's with H4895 & Varget, Lapua brass, and Federal 205M Primers to great success. 5 shot groups .3-.4's. I found the 80's like to be between .020"-.030" off the lands. For varmint shooting, both the 55gr V-max and 55gr Nosler (especially) with 8208XBR & H4895 have been accurate. I have more load data, PM me if you want more specifics.
Again, great purchase you will be very happy with it. Those Tikka's are amazingly accurate out of the box. The bolt is very smooth out of the box, I did a little polishing on the bolt & action and it is amazing. Good luck, please feel free to PM me with any questions.
Tikka T3 .223 Varmint 8twist
KRG W3C Gen 4 Chassis (includes S.S. recoil lug)
AICS Polymer .223 Mags
Melonited bolt
EGW HD 20MOA Scope Base (pinned to action, heard of people having issues with the bases moving around that aren't pinned, dunno if there is any truth to that)
HSS (Hinterland Shooting Supplies) Shroud
Vortex Precision Matched 30MM Rings (med.)
Vortex PST HS/LR 4-16X50 FFP w/ XLR Reticle
AAC SDN-6 Suppressor, but being upgraded to TBAC 30BA & new .223CB Brake
As far as loads go, I have been running the 80gr Berger VLD's with H4895 & Varget, Lapua brass, and Federal 205M Primers to great success. 5 shot groups .3-.4's. I found the 80's like to be between .020"-.030" off the lands. For varmint shooting, both the 55gr V-max and 55gr Nosler (especially) with 8208XBR & H4895 have been accurate. I have more load data, PM me if you want more specifics.
Again, great purchase you will be very happy with it. Those Tikka's are amazingly accurate out of the box. The bolt is very smooth out of the box, I did a little polishing on the bolt & action and it is amazing. Good luck, please feel free to PM me with any questions.
Thanks for the info Sven I might stick with the factory stock for a bit and maybe have shortbus paint it up the same as my other Sako then upgrade to the new XLR Element when it rolls out. Seems like the 8 twist works well with the 80gr berger so I might give that and varget a try. I know barrel life is very subjective to how the the rifle is run but what can one expect to get out of the factory tube with good cleaning and not getting her to hot?
I have a Tikka .260 sporter, and went with a Tikka Performance 20 moa picatinny rail. It comes with a lug that fits into the tikka action, and has been rock solid for me so far - https://tikkaperformance.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=156_59_67&product_id=445
Also check out the X-Ray chassis from KRG. They just started shipping, and I have one waiting at home for me to mount up when I get back.
Shamir
Also check out the X-Ray chassis from KRG. They just started shipping, and I have one waiting at home for me to mount up when I get back.
Shamir
When talking Tikka T3, I make a significant distinction between "need" and "want." When I rebuilt mine, I changed the bolt handle, bolt shroud, stock (with bottom metal and mags), and barrel. None but stock, in my opinion, was "need." The plastic isn't pretty, but I never broke a mag or bottom metal on a T3. Granted, I don't use it as a hammer or javelin.
I would take a T3 action over a Remington almost every time, they are very strong, very well made, butter-smooth bolts, and the stock barrels are very accurate - or have been in my guns. The singular downside (in some cases) of the T3 is the long action for everything. If you can get past that, they are the best deal going for an action that will take much, MUCH abuse without failing.
Mine is in a Whiskey 3 chassis and I will buy more, without question. It isn't light, but is exceedingly configurable. And, swapping to the Whiskey chassis takes care of stock and bottom metal in one move. KRG has taken great care of me and has earned my business, great product, great service.
I would take a T3 action over a Remington almost every time, they are very strong, very well made, butter-smooth bolts, and the stock barrels are very accurate - or have been in my guns. The singular downside (in some cases) of the T3 is the long action for everything. If you can get past that, they are the best deal going for an action that will take much, MUCH abuse without failing.
Mine is in a Whiskey 3 chassis and I will buy more, without question. It isn't light, but is exceedingly configurable. And, swapping to the Whiskey chassis takes care of stock and bottom metal in one move. KRG has taken great care of me and has earned my business, great product, great service.
If you upgrade to a chassis like the KRG you get the bottom metal included. So you dont need to worry about replacement parts for that. You will need to get AICS magazines, and I would say that it is one serious upgrade.
The KRG WT-3 chassis also has a integrated stainless steel recoil lug, so no need to worry about that part either.
The only thing left is the plastic/composite bolt shroud, which I have to say, sucks! I replaced mine with an alloy replacement shroud right away, along with some other things.
My T3 Varmint turned out like this:
I have been shooting rigs bedded in Manners T6A or T2A's for a long time now and have yet to try a chassis but when I looked at the differnt options the KRG was the only one that seemed to fit the bill even before I bought a Tikka. I think you guys running the KRG have made the rite choice and I will likley do the same. Any idea when the Xray will ship for the Tikkas? Shamir please post us up some pics when you get it all mounted up.
There's an x-Ray thread where some people have posted pics. Also here - Welcome to KRG
The X-Ray is shipping now - they are just getting through back orders before opening it up to everybody but it shouldn't be more than a month or two. You can ask Massoud on the X-Ray thread and he can probably give you an estimate.
Now that is what I'm looking for. Love your setup gregt thanks for the tip I'm looking those knobs up now
I upgraded to the W3 and like others have said, it takes care of the recoil lug and the bottom metal issue. I also replaced the bolt handle, knob and shroud. All good to go after that. I have a couple extra bolt knobs that I tried out if you are interested, standard thread needed to screw them on. Just make sure you go ahead and try to take your bolt handle off before ordering a new one, mine was a major pain in the butt to get it out. Not nearly as easy as the videos make it out to be at all.
The only thing not factory is the paint and I put a limbsaver recoil pad on it. Oh and non factory rings.
I got a pm back from Mass at KRG today about an Xray and think I'll order this week. It seems they have been well received by fellow Hide members and the price is great. Thanks to all that have replied and please keep this one going if you have more info about these rifles this is a good resource for other Tikka owners.
To be honest, leave the rifle alone and shoot it!! Save the money you would spend on upgrades and use it on either reloading equipment or quality ammo (I suggest reloading). My factory Tikka Varmint .308 (factory everything including stock) would easily out shoot my DTA SRS with my hand-loads!! Well the only thing that wasn't stock was the picatinny rail that I bedded to the top of the action, similar to the Tactical setup. The bolts are superbly smooth and every one that I've seen have been great shooters right out of the box!
jdboy Ive got shit tons of reloading gear and just got brass and some 75gr Bergers on the way. The stock has to go for no other reason than I prefer a vertical grip and find it alot easier to float my thumb setup this way. Im in total agreement with you that they will shoot in factory form with good ammo or hand loads. I think there is alot more want going into this project than need. I spend alot more money on shit I want than shit I need.
Backcountry,
The gun will not function without something like this. LOL. I have a Tikka in .223 and they are awesome. Enjoy.
Regards, Paul
home
All excellent suggestions! I guess the nay sayers can't claim that Tikka doesn't have after market support anymore..Also, on the topic of chassis's don't forget about MDT's LSS Chassis (Tikka T3 Stock Options: MDT Light Sniper System Chassis | Sin City Precision), as well as their Tac 21 chassis that they should be releasing soon (if not already) for the Tikka T3. I'm just happy to see the market for the Tikka continuing to grow!
Paul I think your right I better get some damn flutes in this bolt if I expect it to run proper. Blanman Im happy to see so many after market options for such a great action like the Tikka I just hope it continues to grow. Again thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread and lets keep going. I really thought it would only get a few post and a few smartass remarks about Tikka actions. Glad to see so much Tikka love on the Hide.
The Tikka does not require much and shoots better than most out of the box. I agree with needs and wants. I did the bolt handle with a glades armory one for ergonomics and a 12oz. Trigger spring. (Oh and long rifles fluting group buy for the sex appeal)Total invested was less than $100.
I concentrated on good reloads and my own shooting skill this winter. Practice and good ammo with a 98% stock .260 Sporter= .3 groups at 100 all day if I do my part.
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The Tikka does not require much and shoots better than most out of the box. I agree with needs and wants. I did the bolt handle with a glades armory one for ergonomics and a 12oz. Trigger spring. (Oh and long rifles fluting group buy for the sex appeal)Total invested was less than $100.I concentrated on good reloads and my own shooting skill this winter. Practice and good ammo with a 98% stock .260 Sporter= .3 groups at 100 all day if I do my part.
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You rocking a .260 Sporter too? I love mine, and its a decent match gun as well. If only they made 10 rd magazines for it, it would be perfect. As it is, I am going to swap it into the new X-ray chassis.
1. Leave the stock DBM. You'll change it IF it'll breaks.
2. Change the stock if its factory polymer
3. If the stock is not KRG - change the recoil lug on titanium one
4. Do an extra job with armorer and change those tiny scews which hold scope base to reciever to the normal ones
5. Buy brass, primers, bullets - make your load and go out and shoot
2. Change the stock if its factory polymer
3. If the stock is not KRG - change the recoil lug on titanium one
4. Do an extra job with armorer and change those tiny scews which hold scope base to reciever to the normal ones
5. Buy brass, primers, bullets - make your load and go out and shoot
I agree with vtb leave the stock mag. I've used mine for a while without a single issue. Also check out the bobsled for single loading. Do I want a AI mag and bottom metal? Yes....but if it ain't broke don't fix it. The gun will outshoot most shooters.
If you must tinker get a KRG chassis or a TAC 21 or LSS. and build off of it. I say buy more ammo and go shoot!
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If you must tinker get a KRG chassis or a TAC 21 or LSS. and build off of it. I say buy more ammo and go shoot!
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Finally took the T3 varmit out today to get the Nightforce zeroed and shoot some groups. I had bought 4 boxes of Corbon match with 69gr SMK's to get some trigger time with and reload the Lapua brass when finished. After shooting several half to quater inch groups I set up the 700 yard steel to verify the advertised velocity. First one was a full minute low but my wind call was dead on. Made the adjustment and planted 3 center plate. Ran this through Shooter on my phone and Nightforce on my Trimble and came up with a velocity of 2935. Took it out to 840 to double check the drops and landed it center on a 12 rock. The only things Ive upgraded are the recoil lug, the action screws that i torqued to 50 in lbs and the HD pic rail. Ive got a bolt handle coming from Sterk and after that I think I'll stop for now. The factory mag does limit the cartridge length but it runs flawless. I really wanted to get a Xray from KRG but this rifle in its factory form has wowed me enough to leave it alone. I cant wait to shoot up the rest of these Corbons and load up some VLD's.
