Gunsmithing Tikka T3X action ruined?

[chickon1]

Man.. I got to watching them youtubes and pretty sure I jacked up my action. I polished it pretty damn smooth and now it runs like doodoo.
Bought a used tikka T3X and the action seemed a way more rougher than my other one.. so down the rabbit hole I went.

It sticks if you get off at an angle at all.. If I lube the crap out of it, it is tolerable. Its seems whatever finish is on the non Stainless get really sticky if you polish it.. not sure..

Is there any way to fix that? I was thinking maybe get it coated.

 

[Stooxie]

Some pictures night be helpful.

 

[chickon1]

Here you go.. Hopefully that helps.. I noticed that "tooling" line across the middle there started to show once the bluing came off.

 

[sti_warrior]

What did you use to get it polished like that? What was your process?

 

[sti_warrior]

I'd have it cerakoted with a microslick finish I think that should help you out alot if not fix the problem

 

[chickon1]

It really looks like ass up close like that.. used dremel with polish compounds.. it's like the more I polished it, the worst it got.. I'm like, how is this possible. First attempt on a bolt action. I have done many ARs with no issues..

The bolt polishes up real easy..

I bought the gun used and the action was rough compared to many Tikkas I have been around.. Not sure what the deal is.

 

[WeiserBucks]

To much watching them youtubes

 

[sti_warrior]

Well thats no way to polish it, the way I would polish if ever needed would by adding some fine grit paste and run the bolt back and forth for the longest time, sort of like lapping scope rings. I dont think your action is ruined its been roughed up by your dremel. I would try some grit first and if that doesnt work then would probably coat it.

 

[Stooxie]

My understanding is that Tikka bolt bodies are actually nickel boron coated. I have some evidence to back that up as well. Polishing it would only take that away.

I think the post above is correct. I have a few Tikka actions that are Cerakoted and after running the bolt a bunch they are every bit as slick as they were before.

-Stooxie

 

[chickon1]

Well thats no way to polish it, the way I would polish if ever needed would by adding some fine grit paste and run the bolt back and forth for the longest time, sort of like lapping scope rings. I dont think your action is ruined its been roughed up by your dremel. I would try some grit first and if that doesnt work then would probably coat it.

That's what I did first, because that is what most people do it seems. I used some scope lapping compound, that is when the problem started..Tried the dremel after that.. made it a little better. May give it a shot again and see what happens

 

[Precision Underground]

If the bolt or action has ever been cerakoted trying to polish it can cause all kinds of sticky crud to get everywhere. Has it ever been cerakoted? Are you the 1st and only owner?

 

[bigwatchpilot]

The other question is what did you clean the action with. You might still have more crud in there...the small stuff you can't see can cause a big problem.

 

[Tunnuh]

If you want to fix it, stop. Call Long Rifles Inc. Ask them what is needed and do that. That might get you up and running.

 

[sti_warrior]

Get it cerakoted with microslick and forget abou it

 

[Ds91]

I’d send it off for repair hopefully someone can coat it to get it up and running again. Dremmels ruin guns.

 

[Lunchbox27]

I’m curious as to why you even did this in the first place. Tikkas have the smoothest factory action. Was it binding before? How many rounds/dry fire had been done?

 

[sti_warrior]

He did say he bought it used and the action was rough

 

[chickon1]

I’m curious as to why you even did this in the first place. Tikkas have the smoothest factory action. Was it binding before? How many rounds/dry fire had been done?

Ya... It wasn't what it was suppose to be when I got it..I wonder what type of metal that is.. It seems really soft. I think the lapping opened it up too much and now it is binding if you don't pull it back perfectly strait. It is still usable, you just can't do like rapid bolt follow ups, which is what I built it for..Thinking of just buying a new SS SA rifle for $600. Got too much in the chassis to change it up.

I have another tikka (not SA) that has no issues..

 

[chickon1]

If the bolt or action has ever been cerakoted trying to polish it can cause all kinds of sticky crud to get everywhere. Has it ever been cerakoted? Are you the 1st and only owner?

Bought it used. Look factory to mee. You are right, the bluing and polish will get sticky as hell. I always clean it out with acetone.

 

[Precision Underground]

That's what I did first, because that is what most people do it seems. I used some scope lapping compound, that is when the problem started..Tried the dremel after that.. made it a little better. May give it a shot again and see what happens

Put the dremel down!

 

[chickon1]

Put the dremel down!

And step away slowly with your hands up!

 

[Precision Underground]

And step away slowly with your hands up!

YES

 

[Muley Buck]

Ya... It wasn't what it was suppose to be when I got it..I wonder what type of metal that is.. It seems really soft. I think the lapping opened it up too much and now it is binding if you don't pull it back perfectly strait. It is still usable, you just can't do like rapid bolt follow ups, which is what I built it for..Thinking of just buying a new SS SA rifle for $600. Got too much in the chassis to change it up.

I have another tikka (not SA) that has no issues..

All Tikkas are long action. It's just a matter of what bolt stop is in it.

 

[SB545]

the "blued" superlite i have is actually parkerized. not sure if that's what you have and i have no idea what would happen if you polished it off.

 

[Gee Kay]

I always clean it out with acetone.

Acetone on a rifle?

I've always been a believer of, if you can't hold the solvent to your nose it has no place near a rifle.
Never thought of just using mineral spirits?

If it was that bad I would of stripped the trigger off the action and dunked it in mineral spirits and used an old tooth brush on it. Then stripped the bolt and gave it a clean then gave it a tiny re-oil.

Didn't the rifle get sold to you with the owners manual? Plenty of information in the owners manual on how to look after it. And if that fails there is always common sense.

Hopefully you haven't done too much damage and a gunsmith can get it back up and running for you.

 

[chickon1]

I finally figured out the issue after getting another action. It's the damn after market bolt handle that is angled back like 45 degrees. It was causing me to put uneven pull pressure on the bolt. I put the bolt handle on the new action, same issue almost, not as bad because it isnt as smooth.

this one https://www.anarchyoutdoors.com/tikka-t3-threaded-bolt-handle-upgrade/

 

[Ensemble]

Hmm, see I am experiencing the same thing. When I clean the rifle and relube it, it goes away, but comes back pretty quick. I used some 5000 grit sand paper, and then some polishing compound and just hand polished the bolt and after that is when I noticed it starting. But yeah, it's binding a lot in the same exact way. I've never heard of microslick though, but thinking I'll give that a shot.

Is that something I should get only on the bolt? Or on the bolt and the inside of the action?

 

[AllenOne1]

I would clean the bolt and action with soap and water to get ALL the grit out. Non-Pro Tip: Dawn & water will take JB Bore paste residue out of a barrel better than anything else I've tried. Follow that with some WD40 to displace the water and lube the action as needed. Send the bolt out and get it Cerakoted. Change the bolt handle.

 

[Ensemble]

Thanks, I wiped it down with a cloth but didn't try any of that to get the grit out. Sounds like that should have been something I did regardless to finish cleaning it off...much appreciated.

 

[Ensemble]

Dude...smooth as butter. Just using dish soap and water, wow. HUGE difference. Thank you so much. That worked great

 

[hafejd30]

3 years later….

Probably figured it out by now…