I recently picked up a new Tikka T3X Superlite and I immediately noticed the bolt was excessively heavy when re-cocking. When I got it home I cleaned it really well and put grease/oil in all the normal spots and it’s still difficult to re-cock. I noticed when I worked the action slowly there was a noticeable point where it would give. I have never owned a Tikka, but everything I have read so far says the actions are extremely smooth. Did I get a dud or is there something I should do to lighten this thing up? Here is a video and you can kind of see what is going on. Thanks!
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Gunsmithing Tikka T3x bolt sticking
- Thread starter Shooter760
- Start date
That looks like something is not right. I have several Tikka's, and while the Tikka's shorter bolt throw make the bolt lift heavier than equivalent 90 degree bolt throw actions, it is smooth and not at all what your video shows. There are a couple points to check, but if this was a store bought new rifle, I'd consider making a call to Beretta.
Check the top sear of the trigger for burrs or signs of galling.
Next inspect the bolt - check the cocking piece and cocking ramp for any burrs or signs of galling.
Visible on my bolt are some faint lines on the cocking piece. This is normal, it is caused by the trigger top sear contact with the cocking piece after the firing pin has released (fired). If you find signs of galling or burrs on the cocking piece, you can try to smooth them out with a fine file. Burrs or galling on the trigger sear should just go back to Beretta.
Beyond this, you'll need to disassemble the bolt to inspect the firing pin. It isn't complicated, but depends on your level of comfort - the Tikka bolt can be tricky to reassemble without Tikka bolt shroud tool. Here again, anything you'd find should go back to Beretta.
Check the top sear of the trigger for burrs or signs of galling.
Next inspect the bolt - check the cocking piece and cocking ramp for any burrs or signs of galling.
Visible on my bolt are some faint lines on the cocking piece. This is normal, it is caused by the trigger top sear contact with the cocking piece after the firing pin has released (fired). If you find signs of galling or burrs on the cocking piece, you can try to smooth them out with a fine file. Burrs or galling on the trigger sear should just go back to Beretta.
Beyond this, you'll need to disassemble the bolt to inspect the firing pin. It isn't complicated, but depends on your level of comfort - the Tikka bolt can be tricky to reassemble without Tikka bolt shroud tool. Here again, anything you'd find should go back to Beretta.
If you remove the firing pin assembly and the reinstall the bolt and try it does it feel rough at all?
Thank you for the responses. Everything is smooth as glass with no firing pin (or no re-cocking). It’s only after it’s been dry fired and gets reset. So I pulled it apart and took some pictures straight out of the gun. There is definitely some metal shavings on the assembly. It looks like they might be from the aluminum bolt shroud, but I can’t be certain. The wear marks seem to be normal, but the loose metal shavings are concerning. Here are the pictures of everything straight out of the gun.
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Everything looks normal. If the bolt action is smooth when the firing pin is held reward (unfired), it must be friction/binding when the cocking piece transitions up the cocking ramp. Did you wipe everything down, lube and reassemble? Anything change?
I wiped it all down, lubed and reassembled, but I’m still getting that slight hang up when cocking. I got the scope mounted up and am going to hit the range tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted if it loosens up after putting some rounds through it.
Have you tried cycling the bolt without the bolt shroud installed? I have seen aftermarket metal ones cause similar issues.
Just an update I got it out to the range and it seemed to loosen up a little bit, but definitely still pretty heavy. I ran into some bad accuracy issues when trying to get a group. I tested 8 different types of ammo, letting the barrel cool between strings of fire, and all were nowhere near moa. I brought it home and pulled it all apart, cleaning and lubing everything, then torquing it all back together to spec. Going to go back to the range Saturday and try again, but I’m starting the think I might have gotten a dud.
Gonna throw my 2 cents in if that's ok - there are 2 things happening when the rifle is re-cocked and the bolt handle is lifted.
1. The cocking indicator moves up the ramp.
2. The firing pin is sliding through the black metal bush (with a flat on it that the handle slides into)
If the ramp is smooth and the round 'nub' on the cocking indicator is smooth, and it's greased - then that's as much as you can probably do or see.
Here's the bit that I haven't seen anyone mention:
The pin sliding through the metal bush may be rough or require some oil so that it's not causing a heap of friction as you re-cock the handle and the pin is trying to slide through the dry/un-oiled metal bush.
When disassembling the bolt, use a small allen key or thin screwdriver through the bit between the cocking indicator and the back of the bolt - as you've done in one of your pictures with the torx wrench.
You can then wiggle/lever the allen key/screwdriver to compress the spring, exposing the part of the firing pin that needs oil - usually hidden in the black metal bush with a flat on it. Maybe even try clean that area of the firing pin before oiling, see if you find any loose bits.
Your video does show a bit of force is required - if less force is required after oiling this 'hidden' bit of firing pin, then at least you know it's that area causing the issues.
1. The cocking indicator moves up the ramp.
2. The firing pin is sliding through the black metal bush (with a flat on it that the handle slides into)
If the ramp is smooth and the round 'nub' on the cocking indicator is smooth, and it's greased - then that's as much as you can probably do or see.
Here's the bit that I haven't seen anyone mention:
The pin sliding through the metal bush may be rough or require some oil so that it's not causing a heap of friction as you re-cock the handle and the pin is trying to slide through the dry/un-oiled metal bush.
When disassembling the bolt, use a small allen key or thin screwdriver through the bit between the cocking indicator and the back of the bolt - as you've done in one of your pictures with the torx wrench.
You can then wiggle/lever the allen key/screwdriver to compress the spring, exposing the part of the firing pin that needs oil - usually hidden in the black metal bush with a flat on it. Maybe even try clean that area of the firing pin before oiling, see if you find any loose bits.
Your video does show a bit of force is required - if less force is required after oiling this 'hidden' bit of firing pin, then at least you know it's that area causing the issues.
Again...Thank you guys for the replies. When I first got it I sprayed the assembly down with break cleaner then put a dab of oil on the part of the firing pin I think you are referring to cannoncrossfire. I have noticed some metal shavings on the top of the assembly, but I think they are coming from the aluminum bolt shroud. Just to make sure I have posted a picture circling the area I think we are talking about. Is this right? I’m going to clean it and lube it again and take it back to the range on Saturday. If I can’t get a group out of this thing and the bolt doesn’t lighten up I’m definitely sending it back. It would be one thing if it was a little sticky and it was keyholing shots, but if the thing is sticky and shooting 5moa not cool.
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The Tikka has a 1 moa guarantee. So if it isn't close to that send it back for repair.
Did you buy this at a gun shop or online? With what you're seeing internally it looks like this isn't a new rifle.
Did you buy this at a gun shop or online? With what you're seeing internally it looks like this isn't a new rifle.
I bought it new at Sportsman’s. I wanted to shoot it one more time after I pulled it all apart again and retorqued everything just to rule that part out. The scope is a viper hs lr that is also new so there could be an issue with that, but I doubt it. I’m going to bring another scope with me and after the next range day I will be able to rule everything but the rifle out. I’ve never had to deal with a warranty issue on a gun so hopefully it’s not too painful of a process if I do have to go down that road...deer season is fast approaching.
You should be able to send it directly to the manufacturer without having to go through a FFL.
Have you asked Sportsman's if they could take it back or exchange it for something else?
How much torque are you using?
Have you asked Sportsman's if they could take it back or exchange it for something else?
How much torque are you using?
Not sure if you tried cycling bolt without shroud installed, but i had to trim the tension spring that goes into shroud cause it kept binding on me. Removing spring from shroud made all issue go away, but then the shroud has some play. The spring is also what causes the aluminum shavings by rubbing on the shroud.
I found this on the Tikka Shooters website:
Tightening the Action Screws on a T3
« on: February 20, 2012, 07:28:28 PM »
I spoke with a Beretta Tech Support guy last week to ask him what the proper procedure was for tightening the Action Screws on a T3 rifle. He said to first line up the Recoil Lug in the stock to the cutout in the Receiver. Then thread in the Reciever/Action screw and Tang screw and lightly snug these up. He said you should be able to tell if you have the Recoil Lug in the right place during this step. Next, he said to hold the gun muzzle up and tap the butt of the stock on the ground a few times to get the Receiver to seat against the Recoil Lug. While it's seated in it's furthest back position, tighten the front screw first to 51 to 52 in-lb, then tighten the back screw to the same torque.
I've never taken mine apart yet so I don't know how the whole Recoil Lug thing works.
Tightening the Action Screws on a T3
« on: February 20, 2012, 07:28:28 PM »
I spoke with a Beretta Tech Support guy last week to ask him what the proper procedure was for tightening the Action Screws on a T3 rifle. He said to first line up the Recoil Lug in the stock to the cutout in the Receiver. Then thread in the Reciever/Action screw and Tang screw and lightly snug these up. He said you should be able to tell if you have the Recoil Lug in the right place during this step. Next, he said to hold the gun muzzle up and tap the butt of the stock on the ground a few times to get the Receiver to seat against the Recoil Lug. While it's seated in it's furthest back position, tighten the front screw first to 51 to 52 in-lb, then tighten the back screw to the same torque.
I've never taken mine apart yet so I don't know how the whole Recoil Lug thing works.
The spring ends could be rough/sharp and galling the aluminum. If they are just smooth them with fine sandpaper or a fine diamond file. The spring ends may be flared slightly which would magnify the issue. Bending the spring ends away from contact surfaces a few thousandths wouldn't hurt either.
The Tikka T3 I have in 270win was smooth as butter until the plastic bolt shroud that came with the rifle broke and fell off in two pieces and I replaced it with an aftermarket aluminum shroud.
It now drags in the last inch of sending the bolt forward and has exactly the same heavy resistance when attempting to open the bolt after dry firing.
I can see wear marks in certain areas starting to show through the anodizing and know I will need to hit a few areas with my jewellers files and do some polishing to correct the issue.
Since yours is new and the shroud is factory it's obviously your call to have them correct the issue or handle it yourself.
It now drags in the last inch of sending the bolt forward and has exactly the same heavy resistance when attempting to open the bolt after dry firing.
I can see wear marks in certain areas starting to show through the anodizing and know I will need to hit a few areas with my jewellers files and do some polishing to correct the issue.
Since yours is new and the shroud is factory it's obviously your call to have them correct the issue or handle it yourself.
I got about 40-50 rounds through it now. I haven’t talked to Sportsman’s about returning it, but I did cycle a few of the same rifles (T3x superlite) chambered in a different caliber and they felt similar. I haven’t tried it without the shroud, but I will look into a bit more to see if that’s what is causing the hang up. As far as torquing the action down I followed that procedure to seat the lug then I torqued it to whatever the manual said...I think 40 something inch pounds. Scope rings are all torqued to spec.
Let me ask you guys this...what if I were to polish this area circled on the feed ramp? It seems like the hang up is happening right where the wear marks start and that is where it is the heaviest. Could this possibly be the problem and is there any risk to doing this?
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Minor deburring and polishing is something I do with most all of my guns. Diamond files, ceramic stones, and a dremel with felts and polishing compound are your friend.
Pull the shroud and cycle it a few times, I'm betting you will be looking for your contact points that need addressed in the shroud afterwards.
Sounds like yours is doing exactly what mine is after adding the aluminum shroud.
Looks like it might take a little more that felt and compound. Maybe a small fine Dremel grinding stone or small round file. I have a few chainsaw sharpening files that come in handy for fine radius work. Also a wooden dowel with double faced masking tape and emery cloth or wet-dry sandpaper works.
If I go more aggressive with it do I run the risk of going too much? I mean within obvious common sense standards ha.
Without having the pieces in my hand I can't say. With most first time situations like this baby steps are safest. I'm talking a few thousandths, refit and test and repeat. It wouldn't hurt to mark the surface(s) you're altering with a Sharpie or Dykem so you can see the amount of contact on the parts.
It's a new factory rifle under warranty. You're risking voiding the warranty. Just send it back.
Well I just got back from the range and I couldn’t get 1 moa out of this thing with 12 different types of factory ammo. The best I could get was about 1.5” but nothing was consistent. I would shoot 1 then the next 2 would be touching but 2” away from the first shot then a 4th would be 2” in a different direction. Let the barrel cool between strings and all that. Fired a different rifle and had no issues. This thing is going back. Thanks again for all the help with the bolt issues.
I sent it back to Tikka and they said nothing was wrong with it. Continued to try different ammo with it and I eventually settled with Nosler ballistic tip. The bolt never got as smooth as I was expecting, but it was good to go for accuracy with 1-2 shots. I took it on my last whitetail hunt and it did just fine at 390 yards. I think it’s just picky with ammo and the bolt will eventually break in more.
Ive has four Tikkas and not even come close to what you’re experiencing. Just based on not hitting 1MOA I’d send it in.
I work on a lot of Tikka actions in the UK
The video shows unusual “hang up”
Everything posted so far are points to look at
Though you haven’t commented o whether the bolt lugs have any galling or if there is any dry lube or high pressure live applied to the following places
Bolt lugs
Bolt handle at secondary cam
Rear bolt tube at sear interface
I notice wear on the bolt shroud that looks like it is catching on the small tab attached to the rear of the firing pin body
That contact should not be happening
Clean up the shroud and apply sharpie pen to cover worn area and reassemble see if this is in contact
Or try working assembled bolt in the gun without the shroud
Obviously I am thousands of miles away so can’t physically examine
Hope these suggestions help
The video shows unusual “hang up”
Everything posted so far are points to look at
Though you haven’t commented o whether the bolt lugs have any galling or if there is any dry lube or high pressure live applied to the following places
Bolt lugs
Bolt handle at secondary cam
Rear bolt tube at sear interface
I notice wear on the bolt shroud that looks like it is catching on the small tab attached to the rear of the firing pin body
That contact should not be happening
Clean up the shroud and apply sharpie pen to cover worn area and reassemble see if this is in contact
Or try working assembled bolt in the gun without the shroud
Obviously I am thousands of miles away so can’t physically examine
Hope these suggestions help
Hey there. What ever came of this? I'm having the same issue on my new Tikka. There's a couple spots in the re-cocking lift where the bolt quite obviously gets snagged on something. I sent it back to Beretta as per the warranty and they've just sent it back citing that they could find no problems. I'm really annoyed as I've tried the lift on the exact same rifle and it definitely doesn't have that problem. Assuming the rifle fires fine, do they consider this not important enough to fix? Pretty aggravating considering one of the things Tikka touts is a buttery smooth action.
i have had easily a dozen tikkas and they all have been acceptable in terms of accuracy. most have been superb. a couple have had rough spots you could feel when recocking but all smoothed out fine after some polishing compound and many cycles. accuracy wise, seating the recoil lug and torquing correctly is very important. follow the mfg recommendations. aside from that, every company has a lemon from time to time. good luck with your rifle.
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