Thinking of getting another Tikka T3 CTR as my current one is starting to open up. Will the SS be more accurate than the blued?
TIKKA T3X CTR BLUED OR SS
- Thread starter ryu_sekai
- Start date
You can also get a lot of top notch 3rd party barrels for that rifle.
Lots of prefit barrels for the $500 mark. Would need the tools to swap them but you can hold onto those forever and use them the next time you need to swap the barrel out. If you would rather just swap rifles I would get a SS for the corrosion resistance
Blued vs SS shouldn’t yield a difference in accuracy. Some blued may be more accurate than some SS and vice versa. Cant guarantee anything with a new barrel but if you go with a quality barrel it should yield .5 moa no problem.
it will shoot better.
I went from .5-.6” groups with the stock CTR barrel to .25-.4” groups after switching to a PVA light Palma button rifled.
Where should I send it for a re barrel. I spoke with a local guy and he suggested I use a 1:8.5 twist that seems really fast.
For 308 yes. LRI has quick turn around on a rebarrel. Invest in the tools and order a prefit barrel, lots of choices available.
If you send it in LRI, PVA, Straightjacket Armory would do a great job or any local smith with a good reputation could do it.
If you want to pick up the tools and do it yourself PVA, McGowan, Straitjacket Armory would be your best bet for SS shouldered prefits. Carbon 6 and proof research make carbon fiber wrapped prefits. Criterion, PVA and X caliber make barrel nut prefits.
If you want to pick up the tools and do it yourself PVA, McGowan, Straitjacket Armory would be your best bet for SS shouldered prefits. Carbon 6 and proof research make carbon fiber wrapped prefits. Criterion, PVA and X caliber make barrel nut prefits.
If you want to go cheap, I bet if you put a WTB ad up in the PX looking for a new factory take off .308 barrel for the T3X CTR, you'd probably find something pretty cheap.
Or if you prefer buy yourself a new factory rifle and list what you have up for sale in the PX and someone will probably buy it for the action.
Or if you prefer buy yourself a new factory rifle and list what you have up for sale in the PX and someone will probably buy it for the action.
I'll send you a PM to get you started.
I make 2 different types of prefits for TIkka's and we have a barrel nut option that is available with a barrel nut and muzzle threads for a lot less than $500
We're slammed right now but so is everyone. I do have blanks in stock though, which may or may not be true elsewhere.
Mine will do .33” 5 rounds groups... not that I can shoot that well every time. Button shouldered prefit from PVA.
70 in/lbs? Seems way light to me. I've broken barrels loose with a carbon stuck suppressor, upped it to 40ft lbs and never an issue.
Yep, no problem.
That's probably a typo, it should be about 75 ft-lb for a shouldered barrel install.
While we are on the subject I seem to recall something about 100ft/lbs for a magnum and 75 for a non magnum? Is that what one would call udder baloney? Or would it ever change depending on the boomage capacity of your boomstick? +1 on the tikka prefit too. Totally worth it!
I recommend that because of the difference in load generated on the bolt for different cases.
The preload in a joint is critical to the stability of a joint. Since we're looking for consistency downrange and the scope is bolted to the receiver, not the barrel, then we need consistency in the joint.
The operating load of a magnum bolt face is about 25% higher than a 308 bolt face. Neither of them really requires 75ftlb but what I did find from empirical data (AKA experience) is that many folks don't own torque wrenches. If I tell them "use about 50 ft lbs" then the need for a torque wrench appears to be even lower. Sometimes we see barrels that practically break loose from the weight of the breaker bar on the action wrench whilst the customer who is having wandering zero issues swears it was torqued in place.
So, in an effort to provide a consistent product that shoots well all the time coupled with the fact that we have virtually no control over how someone actually installs it I have provided torque specs based on some engineering calculations as well as a fair bit of what some would call "Tribal Knowledge"
You can call it "udder baloney" if you'd like, but the point is to torque your barrels with a torque wrench. Especially if you find that the barrel wanders POI from day to day.
I wouldn't dare call it "udder baloney" unless you would. Sorry if it seemed different, but it was a very honest question, as I had just torqued my two new magnum barrels on to my tikka receivers to 100 ft/lbs just 1 day prior to that post. I was hoping I didn't screw the pooch! Thank you for the explanation/confirmation and your detailed reply. I meant zero disrespect. Ya'll are great. Im looking forward to testing out a couple of your brakes on those also.
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We're all good, I'm not upset by it at all. I read somewhere, back when I was in the Corporate fishbowl that something like 95% of the full content of communication is lost when simply writing an email. Emotions, facial expression, other body language queues are all lost. I was attempting to make light of the comment but it seems the joke was lost in transit ;-)
