Tikka T3x w/ NF ATACR - Mounting help?

[cueva]

Hi everyone
I’m a super new hunter and my head is spinning in circles figuring out how to mount my scope. I purchased a 5-25x56 NF FFP ATACR and a tikka t3x super lite in .308
I bought the scope used and it came with a pair of NF extreme duty ultralight rings (34mm) with 1.125” height.

I initially loved the idea of getting a Spuhr 1 piece mount, was going to get the one that slides onto the tikka dovetail (ST-4701), but it’s been discontinued. Not sure why, but when I called supplier they said they sold very few over the years, and most people threw a Picatinny rail on their tikka. I really wanted to take advantage of the dovetail mount, so then I thought of the Sportsmatch rings that slide on directly, but these are only made for 30mm scopes.

Now I’m fed up with all the research and just looking to get this done with ease. I figure I might as well keep and use these NF rings right? Is 1.125” height okay? Too high?

Since these rings are for picatinny then I started looking into Picatinny rails for my tikka. I’m mostly hearing people buying Mountain Tactical or Murphy precision, with most favoring Murphy since MT uses aluminum and Murphy offers stainless steel or titanium. Any thoughts here?

Now, I must also decide on 0 MOA, 10 MOA, or 20 MOA rail. I mostly hear people deciding between 0 or 20. Since I’ll be hunting with a 308 I’ll probably be keeping all shots below 600yd, but if the opportunity arises to shoot longer range I may be down for that, so 20 MOA might be helpful? Will this make my shorter distance shots less accurate / I’ll have to dial for short distance due to 20 MOA rail? Might it be easier to avoid all these measurements of a mess and just do 0 MOA? Plus this will allow for better scope clearance?

—> what I’m especially concerned about is whether the scope will clear, I used one of the online calculators and it said it wouldn’t clear, but do not know what the barrel to rail clearance would be since I don’t have the rail yet so I think it might’ve been wrong?. Do the ring heights in 1.125” also add MOA? Just want a good setup don’t care how much I have to pay….don’t mind if I need to buy new rings either.

TL;DR: picatinny rail or not for tikka? What MOA? Are these NF rings & height okay? Will it clear?

 

[oldrifleman]

I have a couple of murphy Rails and they are super well made. They are straight and mate well to the receivers. I would recommend them. You will end up with a much better scope platform than the dove tail. I would go with 20MOA total, not sure if the rings have any cant.

 

[ma smith]

+1 on murhpy rails, NF ul rings.

not so keen on x56, sphur, etc on hunting rifle

 

[MBanning]

https://www.unknownmunitions.com/product/um-tikka-rings/

These are an option too.


Edit: had the wrong rings linked

 

[Criver600]

Murphy Precision. 30moa stainless, 8" plenty of room for your ATACR

 

[carbonbased]

Scope height is an area in which you will have to play around in to see what you like. It used to be lower was thought of as better.

Nowadays many people, like myself, like a heads up position vs laying your head sideways on the buttstock.

For me, on most bolt actions, a 1.25” to 1.5” centerline height is ideal. This is measured from the top of the picatinny rail (technically, from the bottom of the scope ring, which is just above the top of the picatinny rail) to the center of the scope tube.

Some scope rings are measured from the top of the picatinny rail to the bottom of where the scope rests. So just make sure you know what you’re looking at.

One way to test a setup before you buy is to lay biz cards or coins on the pic rail and to carefully place your scope on there. Get behind it and can see what you like.

For rings, as a beginner, man, I suggest ARC Mbrace rings. Heck, I suggest his rings to everybody. They’re pretty popular.

They are, bar none, the easiest to use and are super-high quality. The scope tube won’t rotate as you tighten the ring bolts like in most other designs.

And instead of up to eight screws per ring (6 on ring caps, 2 for rail) the Mbrace rings have just two screws total per ring. Follow the directions, however.

Here’s a link. He has an illustrated penny method of figuring out scope height under the “Height” tab, down a ways on that page.

M-BRACE SCOPE RINGS

www.americanrifle.com

 

[noremorse92]

Salmon river solutions has a new 20moa tikka scope base that's very low profile and light weight.

 

[Lawnboi]

Get an area 419 20moa

Only two rails that won’t move when pushed in place are the area 419 and the factory CTR rail. Everything else, incuding the Murphy, has some wiggle before screws are tightened.

I really wanted the Murphy to work, but I pulled it off and put the 419 back on.

 

[noremorse92]

Get an area 419 20moa

Only two rails that won’t move when pushed in place are the area 419 and the factory CTR rail. Everything else, incuding the Murphy, has some wiggle before screws are tightened.

I really wanted the Murphy to work, but I pulled it off and put the 419 back on.

Or get rings that fit on the dovetail and do away with another failure point in the system.

 

[Lawnboi]

Or get rings that fit on the dovetail and do away with another failure point in the system.

Unfortunately for a large scope on a heavy barrel there are not many options. Sure UM rings are great on a hunting build. They just do t have anything applicable for my game gun.

I have a couple Spuhr direct to the dovetail mounts as well, they are great! Unfortunate they don’t make one or a big 34mm scope any longer. I also tried to get one when I got my atacr recently and was stuck going back to picatinny.

I’m hoping UM continues the push with more rings and some with added elevation as an option. I do agree direct to the dovetail with pins is the way to go if possible.

 

[carbonbased]

Or get rings that fit on the dovetail and do away with another failure point in the system.

If you go that route, Sportsmatch rings from England are very good. Although they may not make 34mm rings for the Tikka dovetail.

 

[oldrifleman]

I am sorry, but if you are going to use a large diameter scope the dovetail is the weak link. I started out using dovetails to mount scope on my Annie’s, but as scopes grew I needed a better mounting solution. Never having had a tikka, I can’t say which rail is best. For Anschütz rifles Murphy makes the best, but I do love almost every product Area 419 makes so I would not hesitate to trust them.

 

[Baron23]

Hi everyone
I’m a super new hunter and my head is spinning in circles figuring out how to mount my scope. I purchased a 5-25x56 NF FFP ATACR and a tikka t3x super lite in .308
I bought the scope used and it came with a pair of NF extreme duty ultralight rings (34mm) with 1.125” height.

I initially loved the idea of getting a Spuhr 1 piece mount, was going to get the one that slides onto the tikka dovetail (ST-4701), but it’s been discontinued. Not sure why, but when I called supplier they said they sold very few over the years, and most people threw a Picatinny rail on their tikka. I really wanted to take advantage of the dovetail mount, so then I thought of the Sportsmatch rings that slide on directly, but these are only made for 30mm scopes.

Now I’m fed up with all the research and just looking to get this done with ease. I figure I might as well keep and use these NF rings right? Is 1.125” height okay? Too high?

Since these rings are for picatinny then I started looking into Picatinny rails for my tikka. I’m mostly hearing people buying Mountain Tactical or Murphy precision, with most favoring Murphy since MT uses aluminum and Murphy offers stainless steel or titanium. Any thoughts here?

Now, I must also decide on 0 MOA, 10 MOA, or 20 MOA rail. I mostly hear people deciding between 0 or 20. Since I’ll be hunting with a 308 I’ll probably be keeping all shots below 600yd, but if the opportunity arises to shoot longer range I may be down for that, so 20 MOA might be helpful? Will this make my shorter distance shots less accurate / I’ll have to dial for short distance due to 20 MOA rail? Might it be easier to avoid all these measurements of a mess and just do 0 MOA? Plus this will allow for better scope clearance?

—> what I’m especially concerned about is whether the scope will clear, I used one of the online calculators and it said it wouldn’t clear, but do not know what the barrel to rail clearance would be since I don’t have the rail yet so I think it might’ve been wrong?. Do the ring heights in 1.125” also add MOA? Just want a good setup don’t care how much I have to pay….don’t mind if I need to buy new rings either.

TL;DR: picatinny rail or not for tikka? What MOA? Are these NF rings & height okay? Will it clear?

wrt to ring height....yes, many people run higher rings than in the past in order to keep your head up right. 1.5" in many cases.

But what is the right height to get YOUR head in an upright position while in the eye box of the scope and with your cheek firmly on the comb (yeah, its not a cheek piece...ask any stock smith).

For a given comb height (and you have a fixed...not adjustable...comb on that Super Lite), if you have high fashion cheekbones (and yes, don't hate me cause I'm beautiful! ;-) haha) , then you probably won't be able to get into the eye box with your cheek firmly on the comb. You will be low. If your cheekbones are down by your jaw, then its the opposite situation...with cheek firmly on the comb, you need higher rings to get you into the eye box.

Ted from American Rifle Company...aside from making GREAT rings that don't cant your scope when tightening...also has a nice little write up on how to determine needed ring height using pennies. Do this and don't worry about cheek bones, etc. Just do this procedure and here it is:

Also, may be a bit more legible on this link...which is the same ARC info on a vendor's site:

ARC Ring Height – Short Action Precision

How to Determine Ring Height Step 1 Stack pennies on top of scope mounting rail. Use the same number of pennies in each stack. Step 2 Set and hold scope on pennies. Adjust number of pennies until scope is at desired height with adequate clearance to barrel. Step 3 If you use scope caps...

www.shortactionprecision.com

Welcome and good luck.

 

[fedupflyer]

I second the Murphy Precision 20 MOA rail. I put one on my CTR and it was a tight fight with those two locator pins.

Secondly, I am disappointed with Mountain Tactical. I purchased an extended length 20 MOA rail and it went on beautifully. Decided I prefer the receiver length instead and bought another one of their rails. On this one 2 of the screw holes would not line up with tthe receiver. Sent it back to Mtn Precision and was told there was nothing wrong with it even though the rail would bow when trying to install it. Said screw it and bought the Murphy rail and am very happy with it.

Did not like the Area 419 rail. The recoil lug was not machined in and the hole on the rail for the lug was very loose.

 

[Riter67]

Get an area 419 20moa

Only two rails that won’t move when pushed in place are the area 419 and the factory CTR rail. Everything else, incuding the Murphy, has some wiggle before screws are tightened.

I really wanted the Murphy to work, but I pulled it off and put the 419 back on.

+1 for the 419 rail. The whole thing is deburred and chamfered to remove all sharp edges, too. It's not a necessity, but it's a nice touch. I've been running it on my PRS rifle for 3 years and 3k+ rounds and have never had any issues with it. Loctite is your friend with any pic rail btw.