Tikka trigger springs

smokey24_24

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 6, 2020
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I just got my Tac A1 6.5 Creedmoor in and itching to shoot it. I've read that some buy aftermarket springs to get even lighter pull...what springs do ya'll recommend?
 
Go with Elay precision springs. They were $24 shipped for 3 of them. Youll spend $20 on a single YoDave after shipping. My trigger is awesome with the Elay spring. USA made, Lifetime warranty
 
Sounds like I really can't go wrong with any of them. The first pull of the trigger seems fairly long, maybe it's just me...and sorry for the newbie question...but do these springs shorten the first stage pull? Or is there a way to do that?
 
Elay Precision for both my Tikkas.

I learned with my CZ .22 that YoDave is great but the import fees from Canada drive the cost up absurdly - it's not YoDave being greedy. Unless things have changed in the 18 months or so since I ordered, you can order a handful of kits for the same shipping price as a single unit.

Spring does not shorten pull, it lightens the pull. If you don't like the "long" two-stage pull, you need a single-stage trigger.
 
Elay Precision for both my Tikkas.

I learned with my CZ .22 that YoDave is great but the import fees from Canada drive the cost up absurdly - it's not YoDave being greedy. Unless things have changed in the 18 months or so since I ordered, you can order a handful of kits for the same shipping price as a single unit.

Spring does not shorten pull, it lightens the pull. If you don't like the "long" two-stage pull, you need a single-stage trigger.

I'm going with the Elay simply for half the price of the YoDave. When I reassemble the rifle, are there certain torque settings that I need to adhere to? If so where can I find that? I may have missed it but I didn't see it in the manual.
 
I'm going with the Elay simply for half the price of the YoDave. When I reassemble the rifle, are there certain torque settings that I need to adhere to? If so where can I find that? I may have missed it but I didn't see it in the manual.
As I recall the chassis bolt torque settings are buried in the manual, but it's been 18 months since I sold my TAC A1.
 
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I'm going with the Elay simply for half the price of the YoDave. When I reassemble the rifle, are there certain torque settings that I need to adhere to? If so where can I find that? I may have missed it but I didn't see it in the manual.
Bolt torque is buried on page 13 of the manual. Emphasis mine.

T3x TAC A1
Remove the barreled receiver from the lower receiver as follows (fig. 20):
  1. Remove the fore-end as instructed previously.
  2. Remove the attachment screws (A) and (B) and then remove fore-end fastener (C) out of the upper receiver
  3. Open the two receiver fastening screws (A) using a 5 mm Allen key.
  4. Carefully pull the barreled receiver upwards out of the lower receiver. Installation is carried out in reverse order. In order to ensure correct operation, assemble the lower receiver before attaching the fore-end fastener. Ensure the barreled receiver will be centered in relation to the stock. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lb). Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into the lower receiver and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug.
 
Bolt torque is buried on page 13 of the manual. Emphasis mine.

T3x TAC A1
Remove the barreled receiver from the lower receiver as follows (fig. 20):
  1. Remove the fore-end as instructed previously.
  2. Remove the attachment screws (A) and (B) and then remove fore-end fastener (C) out of the upper receiver
  3. Open the two receiver fastening screws (A) using a 5 mm Allen key.
  4. Carefully pull the barreled receiver upwards out of the lower receiver. Installation is carried out in reverse order. In order to ensure correct operation, assemble the lower receiver before attaching the fore-end fastener. Ensure the barreled receiver will be centered in relation to the stock. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lb). Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into the lower receiver and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug.
Thanks!