Tikka trigger

[Billiam1211]

I dont know what the mechanism is of the Tac A1 trigger, but if there is a single adjustment point, I don't know if it is possible to adjust it enough to get the second stage to be that distinct at that weight. I tried looking up photos of the TAC A1 trigger and I cant tell how it works. Maybe post a few high res photos and I can suggest something. Otherwise the Timney with the ability to adjust both stages independently it should work better for you.

It has a single adjustment screw that seems to only affect the second stage while the first stage is driven by the trigger spring. This is likely why everyone is such a big fan of the Yo-Dave or various other trigger spring kits.

That being said, I got a small promotion at work and decided it was enough to justify buying the Timney trigger haha. Once I get it and install it, I'll get back with how they compare and whether my $190 was wasted.

 

[tree man]

Someone mentioned a jard trigger earlier in thread. I said my jard trigger sucked. Jard autocorrected to hard in the my reply you quoted.

My jard sucked hard to ? I stuck the factory one back in
I actually couldn’t believe they made an aftermarket trigger inferior to the factory one

 

[North Island]

Is there any difference in the take-up of the first stage between the 2 triggers?

I currently have a Tac A1 w/ the Yo-Dave spring. My issue is with the first stage on the Tac A1 trigger. Once I get around the 2lb range, the first stage makes it tough to find the wall compared to a friend's Trigger-Tech or Bix-N-Andy, and every once in a while I pull through it. I'm wondering if the Timney T3 would give me that adjustability have or if I should just increase pull weight and leave it be.

The take feels about the same. If anything the Tac A 1 is a little longer in the take up. What I notice most (besides the follow through) is the serrations on the Tikka shoe but that doesn't have any affect on the performance.

 

[ncr92]

Post #13 in this thread

Thanks. I saw that post but was hoping to squeeze you for a little more info if possible. I have a Tikka trigger that adjusts down to 2.8ilbs with the factory spring and 2.1lbs with a Yodave spring.

Did you just polish the contact surfaces between trigger and sear? What was your polishing process?

I found this diagram online. It was labelled as an M558 trigger but looks similar to the T3/T3x trigger.

Does this look like an accurate representation of the T3/T3x trigger to you? I thought the contact surfaces on the trigger and sear looked quite narrow and potentially difficult to polish.

Did you have any problems disassembling and reassembling the trigger. All the pins in my trigger are staked.

 

[JMcBurn]

Thanks. I saw that post but was hoping to squeeze you for a little more info if possible. I have a Tikka trigger that adjusts down to 2.8ilbs with the factory spring and 2.1lbs with a Yodave spring.

Did you just polish the contact surfaces between trigger and sear? What was your polishing process?

I found this diagram online. It was labelled as an M558 trigger but looks similar to the T3/T3x trigger.

View attachment 7164998

Does this look like an accurate representation of the T3/T3x trigger to you? I thought the contact surfaces on the trigger and sear looked quite narrow and potentially difficult to polish.

Did you have any problems disassembling and reassembling the trigger. All the pins in my trigger are staked.

It's pretty accurate.

Taking apart the trigger I took a dremel and removed the staking on one side. The safety holds a spring and it is kinda hard to put back together (needs a pick).

My process was to stick wet/dry to a good square machined edge using pressure sensitive adhesive. I worked up from like P800-P2500 keeping the paper wet with soapy water. I just polished/squared the edges. I adjusted the amount of engagement by taking the nub that the trigger sits on to increase the length of pull before the break slightly because of personal preference.

 

[JMcBurn]

It has a single adjustment screw that seems to only affect the second stage while the first stage is driven by the trigger spring. This is likely why everyone is such a big fan of the Yo-Dave or various other trigger spring kits.

That being said, I got a small promotion at work and decided it was enough to justify buying the Timney trigger haha. Once I get it and install it, I'll get back with how they compare and whether my $190 was wasted.

Buy from brownells and if you don't like it they have a no questions asked return policy if you are unsatified.

 

[DeadeyeD’rick]

Ordered my 2nd Mountain Tactical spring today for a T1X. Got my other rifle down to just over 1lb.

 

[ncr92]

It's pretty accurate.

Taking apart the trigger I took a dremel and removed the staking on one side. The safety holds a spring and it is kinda hard to put back together (needs a pick).

My process was to stick wet/dry to a good square machined edge using pressure sensitive adhesive. I worked up from like P800-P2500 keeping the paper wet with soapy water. I just polished/squared the edges. I adjusted the amount of engagement by taking the nub that the trigger sits on to increase the length of pull before the break slightly because of personal preference.

Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful.

Regarding the pick, are you talking about a tool like a dental pick?

 

[JMcBurn]

Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful.

Regarding the pick, are you talking about a tool like a dental pick?

Yeah. The safety bar retains a spring inside the piece that actually catches the firing pin.

 

[Billiam1211]

Just got the Timney T3 trigger in today and installed it on my Tac A1. It's a definite improvement over the factory 2 stage trigger and exactly what I was looking for.

My factory Tikka Tac A1 trigger hasvthe Yo-Dave trigger spring and consistently breaks at 2lbs. Out of the box the Timney broke at 2.5 lbs consistently. I lowered the pull weight on both stages about a 1/4 turn and it dropped the overall pull weight to an even 2lbs.

When the factory Tikka trigger gets low in pull weight, I found that because the first stage accounts for a large amount of the total pull, under pressure or stress it's hard to consistently find the wall. For hunting or recreational fun shooting the stock trigger works great, however I think for PRS matches or competition the Timney is huge improvement.

The only negative I have is that when I cycle the bolt it seems that the bolt shroud comes into contact with the thumb safety. Also, the safety does not feel as solid and smooth as the factory safety but I find that in competition bolt back mag out is the safety.

Is it worth $195? I think so. If I had the opportunity to get my booger hook on a Timney T3 triggers earlier, I probably would've replaced my factory Tikka trigger years ago.

 

[Timetoshoot]

I pefer 2 stage on field working rifles. At the time I wanted to up grade my Tikka, Timney was only choice. . 22 months of shooting without cleaning this trigger. 2-3 day matches. 15 1 day matches a 3 day class with frank and lots of training. 3,000 ish rounds and not one failure. All shot in colorado with lots of fine dust blowing around and in action, At franks alone class lots of issues and folks needing to use ronsin to clean triggers. I did clean trigger as it was a bit crunchy last week. It’s great to have confidence in gear.

 

[Billiam1211]

Shot a night time match up in Racine, Wi with the Timney 2-stage in my Tikka. It's definitely what I was looking for. First 2 groups I printed were pretty good. I chickened out on a 5 shot group that day ?

 

[Eostech]

The trigger/sear in this picture is set up differently, the trigger itself is not cut out on the t3, the sear is.