Tikka vs nucleus gen 2 actions

[Baron85]

Looking to start collecting parts for my next build. Between a 22br and 6br for prs matches. I’m currently running a bighorn tl2 6br and a tikka 223. I much prefer the tikka over the bighorn. Shorter bolt throw and smoother action.

How does the nucleus compare to the tikka actions as far as bolt lift, ease of binding, smoothness of action?

My only complaint on the tikka is I really like a 2 stage trigger at or slightly below 1# which has me looking at other options. I would like to stick with actions under 90*. Considering terminus as well and have played with one and really liked it but not sure if it’s worth double another tikka action.

 

[srt-4_uk]

Skip the Nuke and get the Archimedes.its worth the extra $100

 

[Baron85]

From my understanding the Archimedes has the hinged lever that you pull back then lift up then finish the cycle?

Sound like it would be clunky snd not smooth?

 

[srt-4_uk]

You just cycle it like a normal bolt. It isn't clunky and it's incredibly smooth.

 

[spife7980]

From my understanding the Archimedes has the hinged lever that you pull back then lift up then finish the cycle?

Sound like it would be clunky snd not smooth?

Its the opposite of clunky.

 

[Baron85]

I just watched some videos. I thought you had to pull back to break the case free then lift then pull the bolt back.

I now see the bolt lifts, then the pivoting handle breaks the case free and slides back at the same time.

Can anyone compare the archimedes to a terminus?

 

[carbonbased]

KRG makes a two stage for the Tikka called the Midas. People seem happy with them and I have read cryptic incantations as to how to lower the pull weight beyond which is in the manual.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Tikka

 

[RFutch]

OP I've got 2 Origins and 1 gen2 Nuke. I don't think the Nuke is quite as smooth as the Origin, at least in my case. If you prefer the feel of the Tikka over the Origin you may not like the Nuke. I also think the 80 deg bolt lift feels mostly like a 90 deg. Its not going to feel as short as a Tikka.

Just my .02

 

[MakeSawdust]

Smooth is mostly how the trigger is timed to the action, magazine tuning, and brass resizing. These things will make a night and day difference more so than one 700 clone vs another.

I dont have a lot of time to elaborate on this right now, but there are plenty of guys on here that understand the concept.

 

[RFutch]

All of my actions are timed/tuned to be as smooth as possible. The Nuke has to overcome a giant extractor on the side of the bolt that is a separate piece from the bolt. That is most likely what I am feeling when moving the bolt forward and aft and its not as smooth as an Origin's bolt.

The Nuke also has a heavy bolt lift. I am even using the 16# spring in mine and its still noticably heavier than an Origin. Splitting hairs, yes, but that's my experience.

 

[st1650]

All of my actions are timed/tuned to be as smooth as possible. The Nuke has to overcome a giant extractor on the side of the bolt that is a separate piece from the bolt. That is most likely what I am feeling when moving the bolt forward and aft and its not as smooth as an Origin's bolt.

The Nuke also has a heavy bolt lift. I am even using the 16# spring in mine and its still noticably heavier than an Origin. Splitting hairs, yes, but that's my experience.

Could also be that the origin is 2 lug 90deg and the Nuke is 3lug 80 degrees ? Generally 2 lug action are a bit lighter on the bolt lift. The Archimedes is a wee bit smoother on bolt lift than the Nuke but it’s not a day/night difference. The big extractor will make a difference for sure.

I still think the Nuke 2.0 and the Archimedes are extremely smooth and light and smoother than the Impact but I haven’t played enough with the Origin to do a valid comparison.

 

[kthomas]

All of my actions are timed/tuned to be as smooth as possible. The Nuke has to overcome a giant extractor on the side of the bolt that is a separate piece from the bolt. That is most likely what I am feeling when moving the bolt forward and aft and its not as smooth as an Origin's bolt.

The Nuke also has a heavy bolt lift. I am even using the 16# spring in mine and its still noticably heavier than an Origin. Splitting hairs, yes, but that's my experience.

Interesting.

I don't own a Nuke, but my Mausingfield M5 has an extremely light bolt throw. These actions are very similar in function, so not sure why yours would be heavy.

My friends Mausingfield, which I believe is a consecutive serial # to mine, feels much heavier than mine. Easily feels ~2-3x heavier. He has an untimed Huber in his, while I have a timed BnA tacsport. That really woke me up to how important trigger timing is, though you state that yours is timed.

I have no issues with the extractor on my Mausingfield.

 

[RFutch]

Nukes are shipped with the 25# spring unless you call and ask for the 16# which I have. With the 16# spring mine has a very similar lift to my Dad's Tikka CTR. Still heavier than a timed Origin. I've never played with a Mausingfield so IDK.

 

[kthomas]

Nukes are shipped with the 25# spring unless you call and ask for the 16# which I have. With the 16# spring mine has a very similar lift to my Dad's Tikka CTR. Still heavier than a timed Origin. I've never played with a Mausingfield so IDK.

Yeah IDK either, since I haven't had the opportunity yet to play with a nuke. I find it odd that they would be that different though.

 

[Evintos]

Archimedes (LA) -0.002" (decock on close) trigger timing, 21-22lb striker spring, Triggertech Special set to 2.5lbs - bolt lift weight = 6lb 6oz to 6lb 12oz
Archimedes (LA) 0.000" trigger timing, 21-22lb striker spring, Triggertech Special set to 3lbs - bolt lift weight = 6lb 6oz consistent

 

[MakeSawdust]

Interesting.

I don't own a Nuke, but my Mausingfield M5 has an extremely light bolt throw. These actions are very similar in function, so not sure why yours would be heavy.

My friends Mausingfield, which I believe is a consecutive serial # to mine, feels much heavier than mine. Easily feels ~2-3x heavier. He has an untimed Huber in his, while I have a timed BnA tacsport. That really woke me up to how important trigger timing is, though you state that yours is timed.

I have no issues with the extractor on my Mausingfield.

The old mausingfields are awesome when timed. The nucleus is not close to them when it comes to lift. They are much heavier even with a 16# spring. I have every weight spring for my nucleus. Even the 16# spring does not make the lift super light.

 

[kthomas]

The old mausingfields are awesome when timed. The nucleus is not close to them when it comes to lift. They are much heavier even with a 16# spring. I have every weight spring for my nucleus. Even the 16# spring does not make the lift super light.

That's pretty interesting. I didn't know nor would've expected that.

I absolutely love my M5 Mausingfield.

 

[Baron85]

Just wanted to follow up. I ended up with a used archimedes and just got the barreled action back from my smith.

Initial impression was just ok, action only had a few rounds through it before I got it and it felt kind of rough when cycling the bolt. I’m also not crazy about how much slop is in the bolt to action fit. Mine wanted to bind at the very back of travel. After cycling it a ton it has smoothed out nicely and I’m getting used to how it likes to be cycled, more of a neutral push pull vs my bighorn I have to keep downward pressure to get it to run well. I love the bolt knob, such a great design!

I got to test the pivoting handle extractor. My new barrel is a tighter chamber than my old barrel so the brass was not fitting into the chamber. I forced a few and the extraction definitely works and boy does it launch brass!

Took it out for pressure testing loads yesterday and it feeds the 6br like greased lightning, very smooth and no issues vs my bighorn. In use I didn’t really notice the pivoting bolt handle, while sitting on the couch it’s pretty obvious. The mechanical ejector is really nice, where I shot there was tall grass and the ability to just dribble the brass out was nice. The CRF seems to be working and I believe is what contributes to the better feeding.

Here are the very first 3 rounds out of the barrel. Shout out to Fisher T&C off here that did the work. Super fast turn around and so far, seems she is going to be a shooter!

 

[celltech]

With a #16 spring my Nukes still have ~1/2lb greater bolt lift than my Origin (all of them run the same TT Primary triggers). But the Nukes close way easier...almost like they just want to fall into place. Both are great actions for their own reasons...

 

[wade2big]

Just wanted to follow up. I ended up with a used archimedes and just got the barreled action back from my smith.

Initial impression was just ok, action only had a few rounds through it before I got it and it felt kind of rough when cycling the bolt. I’m also not crazy about how much slop is in the bolt to action fit. Mine wanted to bind at the very back of travel. After cycling it a ton it has smoothed out nicely and I’m getting used to how it likes to be cycled, more of a neutral push pull vs my bighorn I have to keep downward pressure to get it to run well. I love the bolt knob, such a great design!

I got to test the pivoting handle extractor. My new barrel is a tighter chamber than my old barrel so the brass was not fitting into the chamber. I forced a few and the extraction definitely works and boy does it launch brass!

Took it out for pressure testing loads yesterday and it feeds the 6br like greased lightning, very smooth and no issues vs my bighorn. In use I didn’t really notice the pivoting bolt handle, while sitting on the couch it’s pretty obvious. The mechanical ejector is really nice, where I shot there was tall grass and the ability to just dribble the brass out was nice. The CRF seems to be working and I believe is what contributes to the better feeding.

Here are the very first 3 rounds out of the barrel. Shout out to Fisher T&C off here that did the work. Super fast turn around and so far, seems she is going to be a shooter!

What are your thoughts compared to your Tikka?

The only action I’ve handled that I like as much as a Tikka is the Curtis Axiom. That action has a slightly lighter lift than a Tikka and just as smooth. You can cycle it as you like as well. It won’t bind. I have gotten rid of the couple I had though and just settled on Tikkas for the short and medium action stuff.

 

[Baron85]

I like the feel of the tikka better. Smoother, not as much slop, and harder to bind.

The archimedes is hard to bind as well and has a lighter bolt lift.

If I could get a diamond 2 stage for the tikka I don’t think the extra cost of any custom would be worth it to me. Also the 700 patter has much more second hand option available. Tikka stuff just doesn’t come up as much. If I had a chassis I really liked and didn’t want to try different stuff and a diamond was available tikka would be what I would stick with honestly.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I've had a nuke and 2 tikkas. I still have 1 of the tikkas and I'm doing everything I can not to make it into a match rifle because it's technically my current hunting rifle. I absolutely love the feel of my tikka.

Here it is with some exterior weights on the fore end.

 

[st1650]

I’d be running Tikkas if they would sell their actions + 2 stage trigger only. I find it retarded that you have to buy their Tac A1 and then sell the barrel and chassis ... Plus it’s not like it’s a super easy task to remove their factory barrel.
It’s also harder to find a Manners or McMillan inletted for Tikkas. Which is too bad because a Manners Tikka XM sized LRH would make a perfect long range hunting build for 7LRM/PRC/SAUM

For chassis it’s not as big of a deal.

I also dislike that with the factory oem trigger you can’t open the bolt with the safety on (although you can bypass that with the 2 stage trigger)

 

[Baron85]

I personally like the fact that the bolt locks with the safety. I had my 700 based rifle open one time while beating brush.

 

[wade2big]

I personally like the fact that the bolt locks with the safety. I had my 700 based rifle open one time while beating brush.

Same for me. That’s when I learned to like the bolt lock myself. I went to pull the trigger and got a click because the bolt was partially up. I didn’t get another opportunity after that.

 

[carbonbased]

If I could get a diamond 2 stage for the tikka I don’t think the extra cost of any custom would be worth it to me.

I hear good things about the KRG Midas two stage trigger.

 

[kthomas]

I hear good things about the KRG Midas two stage trigger.

BnA makes a couple of triggers for Tikka.

 

[Jrb572]

I hear good things about the KRG Midas two stage trigger.

Timney makes one. I have it on my Sako quad and really like it.

My Tikka has a TRG trigger and It is really nice. Just expensive.

 

[Baron85]

I have a krg Midas in my tikka and have used the timney. Both are nice but only get to around 1.5 pounds. I prefer around 1# or slightly below.

I also have a trg and that trigger is awesome as well.

I looked into the bix n Andy but have tried a few 700 style ones at matches and didn’t like the feel. Plus they are crazy expensive

 

[carbonbased]

Timney makes one. I have it on my Sako quad and really like it.

My Tikka has a TRG trigger and It is really nice. Just expensive.

Oh yeah, there’s other Tikka single stage triggers out there. But besides the factory unobtainium two-stager, the KRG is the only two-stage game in town (there is an Australian two stage trigger but I was told it gum up easy in field conditions and is made for benchrest). EDIT: I was wrong, there is a Timney Tikka 2-stage as well.

@Baron85 there are undocumented ways to adjust the KRG Midas lower. I just don’t know what they are. Straight from KRG on these forums…sorry I don’t have a link.

 

[Baron85]

I have heard that but could never find the info and contacting them they said that the specs are the specs.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

I just want a TT diamond single stage for mine.

 

[carbonbased]

I have heard that but could never find the info and contacting them they said that the specs are the specs.

Found it. Not specific but from KRG. Massoud / Justin is maybe the owner? of KRG: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/krg-midas-trigger.6913908/#post-7375310

Edit: I suspect you must disassemble the trigger to get a lighter spring in there, based on Massoud’s post. Maybe other features can be “unlocked”? (Like in a video game lol)

 

[Lawnboi]

You guys are really pushing me to buy another tikka. I was set on trying a 700 platform custom for a match gun, but I just can’t fault the tikka…. Iv already got 3, with various trim.

I can get an action and trigger for 650…
I already have spare bolts, trigger and bolt stops.
Already have an action wrench for tikka.


My current only custom is a defiance tenacity hunting gun.

The only thing that I really like on the defiance vs the tikka is the firing pin slap causes less movement on a dry fire if I’m not trying.

 

[Hkmiller]

The nucleus is full cock on open. I have two and they are great. Very smooth action.

 

[alpine_troop]

Have a Nucleus and a Tikka custom build. Love both and would buy another of each in a heartbeat. But if I could only have one, I would keep my Nucleus with TriggerTech. I find it extremely confidence inspiring in all aspects of its cycling, and particularly the extraction/ejection. Never have had any issues with binding. I’m shooting a righty action as a lefty.

My Tikka has the KRG Midas trigger. Highly recommended.

 

[Baron85]

How is the bolt lift and cycling comparing the tikka and nucleus? Every time I play with my archimedes I am more impressed this week. And am curious about the nucleus now.

Have a Nucleus and a Tikka custom build. Love both and would buy another of each in a heartbeat. But if I could only have one, I would keep my Nucleus with TriggerTech. I find it extremely confidence inspiring in all aspects of its cycling, and particularly the extraction/ejection. Never have had any issues with binding. I’m shooting a righty action as a lefty.

My Tikka has the KRG Midas trigger. Highly recommended.

 

[RFutch]

How is the bolt lift and cycling comparing the tikka and nucleus? Every time I play with my archimedes I am more impressed this week. And am curious about the nucleus now.

I’d say it depends on which FP spring you order with it. I ordered my Nuke with the 16# spring and it’s close to the lift on my dads CTR. I would not want one with the 25# spring it comes with standard.

 

[alpine_troop]

To my feel, the Nucleus bolt lift is a bit heavier than the Tikka but ultimately I would class them as similar ballpark. Others might feel it different. My Nucleus is a Gen2, and there weren’t any firing pin spring weight options when I ordered so it just has what it has.

A buddy has an Archimedes, and that is a big step up as far as light bolt lift, compared to both the Nucleus and Tikka. If light bolt is high on your priority list, probably stick with the Archimedes. Shorter lift too.

 

[RFutch]

They come with a 25#. If you call them to order they will ship it with the 16# installed.

 

[Clem]

I’d be running Tikkas if they would sell their actions + 2 stage trigger only. I find it retarded that you have to buy their Tac A1 and then sell the barrel and chassis ... Plus it’s not like it’s a super easy task to remove their factory barrel.

A better and cheaper option is to buy the basic CTR and remove the stock and barrel. You can also buy the actions from this joint but I don't know how good a deal it is. Seems liked a Tikka chop shop.

Another selling point on the Tikka is the CTR mag. It's awesome and compact. I've heard of people having issues but I never have.

You're not lying about the factory barrel removal -- it's definitely not easy but doable. I just replaced the factory barrel on my Tikka UPR with a Proof CF prefit and I looooove it. The UPR factory stock is also a great option if you're looking for something like a Manners/McMillan.

I'm saving up to build a new 7SAUM hunting rifle and I was thinking I would just convert a Tikka CTR because it's known and reliable to me, BUT I'm strongly considering going with a Nuc Gen2 or Archimedes after hearing the owner @karagias on the Modern Day Sniper podcast. Really intelligent and thoughtful engineer. I could listen to that guy talk shop all day.

 

[st1650]

A better and cheaper option is to buy the basic CTR and remove the stock and barrel. You can also buy the actions from this joint but I don't know how good a deal it is. Seems liked a Tikka chop shop.

Another selling point on the Tikka is the CTR mag. It's awesome and compact. I've heard of people having issues but I never have.

You're not lying about the factory barrel removal -- it's definitely not easy but doable. I just replaced the factory barrel on my Tikka UPR with a Proof CF prefit and I looooove it. The UPR factory stock is also a great option if you're looking for something like a Manners/McMillan.

I'm saving up to build a new 7SAUM hunting rifle and I was thinking I would just convert a Tikka CTR because it's known and reliable to me, BUT I'm strongly considering going with a Nuc Gen2 or Archimedes after hearing the owner @karagias on the Modern Day Sniper podcast. Really intelligent and thoughtful engineer. I could listen to that guy talk shop all day.

Go with the Archimedes, it’s not really more expensive than the Nuke 2.0 and it is actually different than just another R700 clone.

 

[TacticalPlinker]

Tikka actions are available

The link below is for the entire CTR assembly. But they offer stripped recievers and bolts individually. So building a custom Tikka is now a no brainer...

https://jaoutdoors.com/product/ctr-short-action-308/

 

[verdugo60]

You can get a whole CTR for just over $900, probably sell the pulled barrel, mag and stock and get back a few hundred bucks. Removing the barrel is the trick.

 

[BLKWLFK9]

Tikkas are more fun.

I just went back and read my 1st post in this thread. I mistakenly said I had 1 nuke and 2 tikkas. I've actually had 2 nukes and 2 tikkas. Loved both but the nukes are gone and 1 of the tikkas are still with me and ain't go anywhere.

 

[300zx_tt]

You can get a whole CTR for just over $900, probably sell the pulled barrel, mag and stock and get back a few hundred bucks. Removing the barrel is the trick.

Did just that. Sold my CTR stock, bottom metal and mag for $250 brought me to $700 on a stainless barreled action. Pretty Hard to beat

 

[Lunchbox27]

As someone who has a custom Tikka, as well as a Vector and a Zeus, go with Tikka. They’re fantastic actions, and great triggers out of the box. I still run my factory trigger, set a 2.5lbs. Now, I’m not knocking the Zeus, I love it as well, but it’s in a different category IMO.

I’m on my second barrel from PVA for my Tikka. Easy to put on, so long as you have a vice, torque wrench and rear action wrench.

You really cannot go wrong with any of the actions today. Buy one with the features you want, that will take the trigger you have/want and go.

 

[TheMammoth]

As someone who has a custom Tikka, as well as a Vector and a Zeus, go with Tikka. They’re fantastic actions, and great triggers out of the box. I still run my factory trigger, set a 2.5lbs. Now, I’m not knocking the Zeus, I love it as well, but it’s in a different category IMO.

I’m on my second barrel from PVA for my Tikka. Easy to put on, so long as you have a vice, torque wrench and rear action wrench.

You really cannot go wrong with any of the actions today. Buy one with the features you want, that will take the trigger you have/want and go.

What rear action wrench are you using?

 

[Lunchbox27]

What rear action wrench are you using?

Ended up grabbing one off Ebay

Everywhere else was sold out.