I've read here and there about timing an action, specifically a Savage one. How is it done and why? Is it just for Savage actions?
Thanks
Thanks
Gunsmithing Timing the action
- Thread starter Belisarius
- Start date
Re: Timing the action
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,4899.0.html
heres a link from savage shooters
hth, lear
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,4899.0.html
heres a link from savage shooters
hth, lear
Re: Timing the action
Thanks for the link, but asks for user name and password, which I don't have
Thanks for the link, but asks for user name and password, which I don't have
Re: Timing the action
The Savage barrel threads into the receiver and has a lock nut. If the barrel was removed and has open sights, or a specific headspace that is trying to be attained, the barrel must be "timed" or screwed in to the action a certain depth or orientation to obtain the desired results.
I dont know why it would be used for anything other than setting the headspace.
The Savage barrel threads into the receiver and has a lock nut. If the barrel was removed and has open sights, or a specific headspace that is trying to be attained, the barrel must be "timed" or screwed in to the action a certain depth or orientation to obtain the desired results.
I dont know why it would be used for anything other than setting the headspace.
Re: Timing the action
I don't think they will mind the info being shared:
"The following is Fred's own description of the Truing & Timing service he offers for Savage actions.
Truing and Timing the Savage Action
When I build a rifle, truing and timing the action is a standard procedure. Most shooters understand the concept of truing, but are confused about what "timing" is. When an action is out of time, it is typical that the bolt operation is stiff, bolting or unbolting. This is caused by several things, such as the cocking ratio being out of balance, and the sear engaging too early or too late. Another geometry problem is that the lead-in ramps and the primary extraction are not synchronized, but are actually in conflict with one another. When we true an action, it consists of much more than just machining a few mating surfaces. First the lead-in angles (the ramps that lead into the lug seats) are re-cut to a true helical cam. The factory cuts are made with an end-mill, and are not helical. A helical cam is like a spiral staircase, and I have developed special tooling to precisely cut the lead-in angles to engage the whole width of the bolt lugs. The receiver face and the lug seats are machined to square them up relative to the receiver threads, not to the bore of the receiver like most gunsmiths would do using conventional wisdom. The reason for this is the barrel will be square to the bolt face. Concentricity behind the bolt head is not critical, as the "float" in the bolt head will allow the bolt body to be off center as much as .045" in any direction, and still get full lug contact, although I've never seen one that bad.
The bolt head is squared, front and back and the firing pin protrusion is reset to .040" +- .005". After this is done, the firing pin travel is corrected and timed with the sear and trigger. At this time the cocking ratio is corrected to avoid over cocking and hard bolt lift. The cocking ramps are reground to the correct angle, and lastly the barrel nut is faced for 100% contact.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2007, 02:30:35 AM by MrFurious » "
I don't think they will mind the info being shared:
"The following is Fred's own description of the Truing & Timing service he offers for Savage actions.
Truing and Timing the Savage Action
When I build a rifle, truing and timing the action is a standard procedure. Most shooters understand the concept of truing, but are confused about what "timing" is. When an action is out of time, it is typical that the bolt operation is stiff, bolting or unbolting. This is caused by several things, such as the cocking ratio being out of balance, and the sear engaging too early or too late. Another geometry problem is that the lead-in ramps and the primary extraction are not synchronized, but are actually in conflict with one another. When we true an action, it consists of much more than just machining a few mating surfaces. First the lead-in angles (the ramps that lead into the lug seats) are re-cut to a true helical cam. The factory cuts are made with an end-mill, and are not helical. A helical cam is like a spiral staircase, and I have developed special tooling to precisely cut the lead-in angles to engage the whole width of the bolt lugs. The receiver face and the lug seats are machined to square them up relative to the receiver threads, not to the bore of the receiver like most gunsmiths would do using conventional wisdom. The reason for this is the barrel will be square to the bolt face. Concentricity behind the bolt head is not critical, as the "float" in the bolt head will allow the bolt body to be off center as much as .045" in any direction, and still get full lug contact, although I've never seen one that bad.
The bolt head is squared, front and back and the firing pin protrusion is reset to .040" +- .005". After this is done, the firing pin travel is corrected and timed with the sear and trigger. At this time the cocking ratio is corrected to avoid over cocking and hard bolt lift. The cocking ramps are reground to the correct angle, and lastly the barrel nut is faced for 100% contact.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2007, 02:30:35 AM by MrFurious » "
Re: Timing the action
my 22-243 is trued and timed by sharp shooter supply. it is pretty damn smooth.
my 22-243 is trued and timed by sharp shooter supply. it is pretty damn smooth.
Re: Timing the action
I had to learn about timing after having stiff bolt lift on a custom action with a one-piece bolt. It's been fun....
I had to learn about timing after having stiff bolt lift on a custom action with a one-piece bolt. It's been fun....
Re: Timing the action
I have a M12 243 win that I had SSS perform his T&T sevice to. I don't know if it made it shot any better, as is was very good to begin with, but the bolt lift was drasticly reduced and it seems to cycle smoother. I think is was like $120.00 to get it done, and I feel well worth it.
I have a M12 243 win that I had SSS perform his T&T sevice to. I don't know if it made it shot any better, as is was very good to begin with, but the bolt lift was drasticly reduced and it seems to cycle smoother. I think is was like $120.00 to get it done, and I feel well worth it.
