Tips/Advice Wanted - Modifying my 1980’s 700 in 22-250

JJones40828

Private
Minuteman
Jul 10, 2018
6
0
Ozark, MO
So this rifle was purchased new by my grandfather back in the 80s, it had the beautiful factory wood stock, but was punishing to shoot throughout the day on prairie dog hunts. I upgraded the stock to a Bell and Carlson. I currently have a Vortex Viper HST however this scope is not cutting it as the pdogs are not clear at the distances I’m wanting to shoot at. But I’m not looking for scope advice. With my current hand loads (if I do my work and it’s a calm day) I’m getting around 1” five shot groups at 300 yards.

Due to the recoil of the rifle, it is very difficult for me to follow my shots, so I am thinking about having the muzzle threaded for a comp (and possibly a suppressor).... then likely having the rifle refinished in cerakote. Am I crazy to put this kind of work/modifications into a 1980s rifle?

Also, if I’m not crazy, are there any other recommendations you would make? This is primarily a prairie dog hunting rifle. Hoping to play in the 400-800 yard range. Thanks for any and all advice!
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Considering the age of the rifle I'd consider not threading the muzzle but instead maybe a new barrel from Criterion. A rem/age type setup. You could keep the 22-250 or AI it. I only say this because a 30-40 year old prairie dog rifle ought to be pretty close to shot out (original barrel?). Just something to consider the $100 you may spend getting a local Smith to thread it is about 1/3 of a new barrel. May just want to wait a bit until that barrel dies

Theres nothing wrong with coating it either. The gun performs. It's been in the family and has sentimental value. Why not extend the life of the action a little.
 
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Personally, if I had a rifle that I could count on to shoot 1” at 300 yards, I wouldn’t do anything to it. But, like said above, the action is probably “better” than what most rem shooters are shooting today. The barrel is still shooting great, so if a muzzle brake will make it more fun to shoot, rock on with it. I don’t think I would ceracoat it, just because I am cheap and I have a suspicion the barrel won’t last another 30 years. In th end, what you are suggesting will not hurt the rifle, and customizing a rifle to shoot the way you want it to is not crazy.
 
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Personally, if I had a rifle that I could count on to shoot 1” at 300 yards, I wouldn’t do anything to it. But, like said above, the action is probably “better” than what most rem shooters are shooting today. The barrel is still shooting great, so if a muzzle brake will make it more fun to shoot, rock on with it. I don’t think I would ceracoat it, just because I am cheap and I have a suspicion the barrel won’t last another 30 years. In th end, what you are suggesting will not hurt the rifle, and customizing a rifle to shoot the way you want it to is not crazy.

That is one of my hesitations... worried that that altering it might cause it to lose accuracy. Thanks for the input.
 
I am putting about $3,000 into an 1986 Rem 700 ADL. Rebarreled it in 280 AI Match, had a brake put on it, fluted the 26" barrel, had the absolute works done on the bolt by LRI (m-16 extractor, dual ejecters, bolt face bushed for proper hole diameter, tac bolt knob, McMillan M40 stock, cerakote. It is a great rifle and cheaper because the action cost me nothing and is higher quality that the new actions sloppily machined today. But after LRI got through with it, it is perfect!!!
 
I am putting about $3,000 into an 1986 Rem 700 ADL. Rebarreled it in 280 AI Match, had a brake put on it, fluted the 26" barrel, had the absolute works done on the bolt by LRI (m-16 extractor, dual ejecters, bolt face bushed for proper hole diameter, tac bolt knob, McMillan M40 stock, cerakote. It is a great rifle and cheaper because the action cost me nothing and is higher quality that the new actions sloppily machined today. But after LRI got through with it, it is perfect!!!
Did LRI comment about the squareness of the action before truing? I also have a late 80s remington 700 that shoots very well. Just wondering what gunsmiths have to say about old remington 700 actions vs new ones.
 
They are all crooked.
Some shoot so well I wonder if trueness matters.

If consistently crooked than it will be consistently accurate.

It's why Redfield has coarse adjustment screws on their scope bases and why we set zero on scopes.

Everything after that is on the shooter.
 
I have an early nineties single shot Rem 40X in .220 swift. Very similiar. Putting a Thunderbeast suppressor on it was the ticket for pdogs. It reduced felt recoil and that seriously loud crack from that cartridge. Your's shoots very well, I'd thread the muzzle and get a can, you'll see the impacts/acrobatics.
 
Did LRI comment about the squareness of the action before truing? I also have a late 80s remington 700 that shoots very well. Just wondering what gunsmiths have to say about old remington 700 actions vs new ones.
The old ones are much squarer (closer to design spec) than the new ones according to the machinist. However, when it comes to adding new bolt knobs, the preference is for the newer actions with RR beginning the serial number because the old bolt handles were too thin to accept a tactical knob. A new handle altogether must be used.
I have a sweet little .243 REM 700 from the 1970s that is for my grandkids to deer hunt. I had a smith accurize it and he said he had almost nothing to do to it. The receiver face was very square and the lugs were almost perfect.
 
I'm assuming that's an old BDL Varmint? If so those are beautiful rifles. I wouldn't modify it for what you can get an action for to just build another rifle.

Right now recoil is your main complaint, but next will be ballistics. That rifle should be a 1:14 twist which limits you to very short light bullets which aren't going to perform well out to the 400-800 yards you're wanting to shoot. You need a faster twist to run heavier bullets to get the performance at those distances. The light bullets from a 22-250 are best suited for ultra flat shooting out to 400 yards or so.

Basically you'll spend money and modify an original rifle and it still isn't going to do what you want it to.
 
The old ones are much squarer (closer to design spec) than the new ones according to the machinist. However, when it comes to adding new bolt knobs, the preference is for the newer actions with RR beginning the serial number because the old bolt handles were too thin to accept a tactical knob. A new handle altogether must be used.
I have a sweet little .243 REM 700 from the 1970s that is for my grandkids to deer hunt. I had a smith accurize it and he said he had almost nothing to do to it. The receiver face was very square and the lugs were almost perfect.

I love the elegance of the old bolt handle.

I specifically seek those out in preference to the square cast.
 
I'm assuming that's an old BDL Varmint? If so those are beautiful rifles. I wouldn't modify it for what you can get an action for to just build another rifle.

Right now recoil is your main complaint, but next will be ballistics. That rifle should be a 1:14 twist which limits you to very short light bullets which aren't going to perform well out to the 400-800 yards you're wanting to shoot. You need a faster twist to run heavier bullets to get the performance at those distances. The light bullets from a 22-250 are best suited for ultra flat shooting out to 400 yards or so.

Basically you'll spend money and modify an original rifle and it still isn't going to do what you want it to.

Wish I could take those old varmint barrels and rebore to .308.

They would be beautiful for M40 builds.
 
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The old ones are much squarer (closer to design spec) than the new ones according to the machinist. However, when it comes to adding new bolt knobs, the preference is for the newer actions with RR beginning the serial number because the old bolt handles were too thin to accept a tactical knob. A new handle altogether must be used.
I have a sweet little .243 REM 700 from the 1970s that is for my grandkids to deer hunt. I had a smith accurize it and he said he had almost nothing to do to it. The receiver face was very square and the lugs were almost perfect.
Thanks. This is good info.

My 1989 BDL in 243 will shoot same point of aim point of impact even when the barrel is very hot. I think this is associated with a square action and square barrel mating to the action face, such that where no pressure points exist. Good to know the smith confirms the quality of old rem700s.