Tips to increase target reflectivity for LRF.

2aBaC̶a̶

Humans are amusing
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 27, 2019
6,064
7,500
I Da ho
Long story short I was attempting to set a target out at a mile and my Sig2000 wouldnt pick it up. Target was a 4'x4' steel panel painted white.

Looking for any tips or tricks to increase the ability for the LRF to pick it up.
 
less sunlight

or try reflective tape

you are under lasered though you have a 1000 yard unit

you might be able to get a truck leave one at the Target


Ok thanks. I'll try some reflective tape. Or maybe cover it in reflective vinyl.

As far as under lasered yeah, I dont use it for elr. Rarely over 1k. 1mile is a personal goal. The laser says it does up to 3400 meters so I figured I could make it work at half that. I have lased targets around the city over 1k.
 
3400 meters

WTF are you reading maybe at night it might hit a house but you have to delusional to have even written that

the Kilo 2000 is like a $400 laser lol

Lol, im no expert, obviously. I may be delusional but that comes straight from the Sig website.

"Couple that with the ability to range reflective targets up to 3400 yards, trees up to 1500 yards, and deer up to 1200 yards for simple, intuitive long distance ranging".


Knowing that's perfect conditions, I figured it might do half.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 2aBaC̶a̶
I currently use the Kilo 2000 also. Have used bicycle reflectors to get out a little farther. Also use a gps distance app to get farther. Was kinda wondering what's the best in sub $1000 and sub $2000 range.
 
I have had my PFLR 25C for about 5 years and have no regrets buying it. Live in NW AZ so it get lots of use. The longest i have been able to range is right at 8500 yards. No problem ranging 40 inch steel plates at 3100 yards.
 
How about a shiny mylar balloon (uninflated :rolleyes:) or some AL foil on the target?

……..and I'll go be poor somewhere else......:whistle:

Funny thing is I had brought a space blanket thinking I would do the same but didn't bother to wheel it back around the canyon to the target to set it up. wind gusts up to around 25mph killed it.

No shame.
 
  • Like
Reactions: smoooth1
Sigs love the rear end of cars.. (not the side). I think the tail lights help, just the opposite as a radiator, that hurts most PLRFs.. Parking a car at the FFP or Target rear facing the will work.. You can obviously range either direction. Range at first or last light and not into the low angle sun.. @lowlight was saying this just in less words.

Your point about wind is worth noting. In the early days we tried just about everything... special paint, tape, foil - it just became easier to hop scotch or shoot back at the FFP.

Note:
I can say, mine will range almost anything up to 1000yds. Grass, bushes, dirt, telephone poles. After that it gets picky.

This is were the Sig is actually a bit dangerous with it's super large beam, sense it returns off everything you need to be extra careful to determine if the read is the target or something else often appearing to be next to the target but in fact creating dead space and miss-reads. It is hard to beat the Sigs for the $, but at the end of the day they are using less controlled beams (test them under NV on a grid) and instead relaying of software gates. Understanding their weakness will make your reads more accurate. Once you are past the 900-1kish mark, it needs something much more reflective like a steel target, street sign or rear of car. In a weird way, this makes using it on a steel target easier. Were as when we used V21s or 25Cs any miss aim gave a read.. thats why tripods where so important.

Here is the grid I use to test beams.. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/easy-test-to-show-your-plrf-beam-size-test-and-placement.6901690/

I did a post showing a comparison of the sig and some other as well one with the Sig Binos.. Their beam is way way larger than their spec.. their spec is software produced. Unfortunately I can't find them.
 
Last edited:
You'll need a stapler...

72bd382d7beb1b88a3a094cf642e81c0.jpg


712JUHJiBuL._SX355_.jpg
61EwuSlV6lL._SY355_.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2aBaC̶a̶
Sigs love the rear end of cars.. (not the side). I think the tail lights help, just the opposite as a radiator, that hurts most PLRFs.. Parking a car at the FFP or Target rear facing the will work.. You can obviously range either direction. Range at first or last light and not into the low angle sun.. @lowlight was saying this just in less words.

Your point about wind is worth noting. In the early days we tried just about everything... special paint, tape, foil - it just became easier to hop scotch or shoot back at the FFP.

Note:


This is were the Sig is actually a bit dangerous with it's super large beam, sense it returns off everything you need to be extra careful to determine if the read is the target or something else often appearing to be next to the target but in fact creating dead space and miss-reads. It is hard to beat the Sigs for the $, but at the end of the day they are using less controlled beams (test them under NV on a grid) and instead relaying of software gates. Understanding their weakness will make your reads more accurate. Once you are past the 900-1kish mark, it needs something much more reflective like a steel target, street sign or rear of car. In a weird way, this makes using it on a steel target easier. Were as when we used V21s or 25Cs any miss aim gave a read.. thats why tripods where so important.

Here is the grid I use to test beams.. https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/easy-test-to-show-your-plrf-beam-size-test-and-placement.6901690/

I did a post showing a comparison of the sig and some other as well one with the Sig Binos.. Their beam is way way larger than their spec.. their spec is software produced. Unfortunately I can't find them.

Cool thanks. I will be testing it tonight in the home cameras. Also plan on getting some sheets of reflective vinyl and wrapping the targets.