Yep, I glue in all barrels with high temp green loctite bearing sleeve glue. Tighten to 60 ft/ lbs. Mill a channel for the gas tube if necessary. Often use adjustable gas blocks, hand lap barrels, especially ones with reamer and rifling galling with buttons, drill out gas port if needed. Center bolt carrier in reciever, using Bridgeport mill, and indexing fixture, cut down in lathe for exact fit. Mill reciever for longer cartridges, shorten & thread for barrels, pin and weld. Mill flutes in barrels, lighten bolt carriers for certain projects. Recut chamber, true reciever face. Make dies for weird calibers, like the 8.6 blackout 3 twist barrel, which was totally crap, and need to be lapped with carbide lapping compound to find the rifling ...the super fast 3 twist was totally galled with torn rifling especially at the beginning of the barrel. After a lot of work, I got it to shoot 300 gr subs pretty well. I get about 1 in three barrels from lesser manufacturers to shoot good. But cut rifled Bartlein, Proof, and most button rifled Schilen barrels are accurate right from the start. Wilson Combat has "some" good barrels for the price point, but I've also returned one after looking at it in a borescope. And had to rechamber an Odin Works barrel that was new. I just had good luck with Bartlein and Proof Research. Other barrels can shoot, but I don't use them these days. I have a Bartlein 7.5 twist on the way for 6.5 Creedmoor after I burn out the factory barrel with the new high pressure bi metal cased loads.I enjoy lots of AR calibers like the 450 bushmaster 16 twist with sub sonic 502 gr bullets to 185 gr supers in copper, or the 358 Win. to the little 6mm ARC, plus all the popular standard calibers available.