To reload or to go rimfire, that's the question

[Otero51]

Hi guys, lately I've been pondering at possible ways to reduce some of the cost of this hobby (shooting 308 at the moment) and wanted to get your input whether it made more sense to start reloading or getting me a rimfire rifle. I got some extra gun allowance this past week, enough to get me a starter reload kit or a 22lr gun (something like as a savage markII). Below are some of the pros and cons I believe come with each option.

Going 22lr:
1) I get a new gun. What's not to like about that.
2) No learning curve. Just go out and shoot.
3) Provides more flexibility in terms of available gun ranges to go shoot.
4) Can practice basic skills without burning my 308's barrel life (not that 308 has a short life span anyways).
Cons:
1) Skills practiced are not 100% equal to centerfire

Reloading:
1) Allows for practicing more on my main rifle
2) Gives me something to do during those cold/wet months of the year
3) Allows me to create ammo more tuned to my specific rifle
Cons:
1) Requires a learning curve
2) Not sure if it's as cost effective as 22lr

If I could I would do both but at the time I have to choose (otherwise wife will kill me). So what do you guys think? Is there anything obvious I'm missing? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. If this is the wrong place to post this topic I apologize in advance.

 

[ORD]

I prefer apples, but I know a lot of folks who like oranges too...

Seriously...its a tough call to make. Reloading will have current, almost immediate, and lasting cost savings versus buying commercially manufactured, match quality ammo. You can cut the cost per round of ammo for your .308, depending on the components you select, by a significant margin...enough so that you'll have recouped your initial investment in a press, dies, scale, etc. and basic components, within 1000 rounds or less.

As for a .22LR trainer...don't be fooled by the "cheap" prices of .22LR ammo you see on the shelves at Wally World and the like. Yes...its cheap. But it generally isn't for @#$% in terms of quality training ammo or for getting match levels of accuracy with a quality rifle/scope setup. It'll go bang and send a bullet downrange, but just like with centerfire ammo...you have to pay to play in the .22LR world too. Also, while I agree wholeheartedly that there is NEVER anything wrong with another rifle in the safe...the cost of getting a quality rifle and setting it up with optics, mounts/rings, bipod, mags, etc., etc. is going to run you significantly more than a basic reloading setup and components to load several hundred (maybe more) rounds of ammo.

Just some food for thought on your way to making a decision...

 

[blair]

I prefer apples, but I know a lot of folks who like oranges too...

Seriously...its a tough call to make. Reloading will have current, almost immediate, and lasting cost savings versus buying commercially manufactured, match quality ammo. You can cut the cost per round of ammo for your .308, depending on the components you select, by a significant margin...enough so that you'll have recouped your initial investment in a press, dies, scale, etc. and basic components, within 1000 rounds or less.

As for a .22LR trainer...don't be fooled by the "cheap" prices of .22LR ammo you see on the shelves at Wally World and the like. Yes...its cheap. But it generally isn't for @#$% in terms of quality training ammo or for getting match levels of accuracy with a quality rifle/scope setup. It'll go bang and send a bullet downrange, but just like with centerfire ammo...you have to pay to play in the .22LR world too. Also, while I agree wholeheartedly that there is NEVER anything wrong with another rifle in the safe...the cost of getting a quality rifle and setting it up with optics, mounts/rings, bipod, mags, etc., etc. is going to run you significantly more than a basic reloading setup and components to load several hundred (maybe more) rounds of ammo.

Just some food for thought on your way to making a decision...

^^^ Great info here.....I enjoy both centerfire and rimfire, and would vote for both. This "hobby" is costly, no matter which direction you go. Based on your description and from a financial standpoint only - it seems the most "savings" may be reloading for your current gun. Unless of course, you want a new gun....lol.

 

[19Scout77]

Start reloading and dryfire everyday. .22s are boring.

 

[Tullz82]

BOTH!

Rimfires are great. Especially simulating longer range shots at lesser distances (I'm limited to 150 yards) cheap to build and shoot. Fun to tune and shoot and easy to teach anyone how to use. Bottom line every one should own one.

Reloading is the other side of the spectrum. Rewarding and fun in itself, can tailor ammo to gun,shooter and situation. Only problem is it becomes an addiction searching for perfection. As long as your committed and shoot enough to justify it its a no brainer. There's a wealth of resources, use them, stay safe and enjoy.

 

[kraigWY]

I don't think 22s are boring, but they are hard to find, and more expensive then in the past.

I vote reloading. But you can cut cost more by casting bullets. I shoot a lot of 308 with cast bullets (as well as other rifles). You can get the cost down to the price of 22s, that is if you could find 22s.

I've used a variety of powders but I've settled on 5744 for most of my rifles, That powder is easy to find most places. Some people tell you you can't use cast bullets in gas guns, that's a crock. Been doing it for over 35 years in my Super Match M1A, and my Garand with no ill effects.

Cast bullets make excellent practice to 100 yards and beyond. I tumble lube with the Lee lube and use gas checks. Some I size, some I don't. Depends on what the rifle likes. Some rifles like my 1898 Krag will shoot cast bullets as fast as it shoots jacked bullets. I found you don't have to cast hard bullets, I don't I use range lead I get from our club indoor range.

Some rifles, like my 45-70 (w/Black Powder) want soft almost pure lead. I learned that the hard way trying to shoot a Creedmor Match (800-900 & 1000 yards), hard lead tumbled.

There is no way I could afford to shoot as much as I do if I didn't use cast bullets. I use them exclusively in my pistols/revolvers.

If you really want to push the envelope try making jacketed bullets. In the late 70s I ordered a mold (I think if was RCBS) for my 375 H&H. It takes 3/8 inch copper tubing cut to length and lay them in the mold. Pour in the lead and you have a jacketed 270 gr, 375 bullet that you can shoot as fast as any jacketed bullet.

 

[ashland]

If you are serious about running your main gun well then you should invest in the reloading equipment. I did the .22 thing for a while until I started shooting long range. After that, the .22 seldom got used. The only .22 I use now is a .22 upper for my AR. I'm like Scout, I dry fire almost every day and when I get time to shoot I will be shooting my main gun.

 

[Speeddog]

I agree with both. A good accurate .22, shot at distance really makes you pay attention to your fundamentals (I'm running an Anschutz 64mpr). One can also shoot it indoors in lousy weather. Does not take the place of center fire long range; it's just another fun way to shoot.

 

[pawprint2]

Good match grade 22lr ammo will cost 10-15 cents each (minium) and can go higher, (Lapua, eley, wolf), a great 22, Anschutz for example, aint cheap, but they virtually never wear out. Cost of shooting center fire, is more than bullets-brass-powder-primers, but barrel life, cost of new tubes/ and smiths etc. The costs associated with 22 match rifles is much easier to "figure". Just like in any sport, you can spend, and keep spending. But in the real world, it costs less to shoot high grade 22lr (rifle and ammo) than to shoot high grade center fire rounds. As has already been pointed out, don't be fooled by the "cheap 22lr" ammo. I know there are a lot of guys, some on this very board, that shoot cheap wally world 22's from their "match grade" 10-22's and are just off the Olympic records, but again in the real world, you'll do very well to get a good match grade 22 and stick to match grade ammo-you will save money.

 

[pawprint2]

I don't think 22s are boring, but they are hard to find, and more expensive then in the past.

I vote reloading. But you can cut cost more by casting bullets. I shoot a lot of 308 with cast bullets (as well as other rifles). You can get the cost down to the price of 22s, that is if you could find 22s.

I've used a variety of powders but I've settled on 5744 for most of my rifles, That powder is easy to find most places. Some people tell you you can't use cast bullets in gas guns, that's a crock. Been doing it for over 35 years in my Super Match M1A, and my Garand with no ill effects.

Cast bullets make excellent practice to 100 yards and beyond. I tumble lube with the Lee lube and use gas checks. Some I size, some I don't. Depends on what the rifle likes. Some rifles like my 1898 Krag will shoot cast bullets as fast as it shoots jacked bullets. I found you don't have to cast hard bullets, I don't I use range lead I get from our club indoor range.

Some rifles, like my 45-70 (w/Black Powder) want soft almost pure lead. I learned that the hard way trying to shoot a Creedmor Match (800-900 & 1000 yards), hard lead tumbled.

There is no way I could afford to shoot as much as I do if I didn't use cast bullets. I use them exclusively in my pistols/revolvers.

If you really want to push the envelope try making jacketed bullets. In the late 70s I ordered a mold (I think if was RCBS) for my 375 H&H. It takes 3/8 inch copper tubing cut to length and lay them in the mold. Pour in the lead and you have a jacketed 270 gr, 375 bullet that you can shoot as fast as any jacketed bullet.

Sir, have you ever "moly coated" any of the 375's that you've made? If so what kind of result did you get?

 

[kraigWY]

have you ever "moly coated" any of the 375's that you've made?

Nah, never saw the need.

 

[pawprint2]

^^My question wasn't because I thought there might be a need, but rather the pure copper vs Jacket brass -copper in the bore.

 

[Otero51]

Thanks for all the input guys! I've been going over them in detail to get a better understanding of things.
A good point mentioned was regarding good 22lr rifles not wearing with use. Can the same statement be said of lower end 22 rifles, like a ruger 10/22 or savage markII?
I still need to do calculations as to how much would I save if I reload to match what I get out of mid/high grade factory ammo (such as Federal GM 175s).

 

[CleanMoostang]

I dunno what your exact income is, but I know personally for me, with the good job I have, I still would never have shot as much as I have without reloading, nor shoot with the capability I have without reloading.

22's are fun, but so it shooting your ammo, you made, for your rifle.

I also look at it this way. Good ammo from your local shop costs about anywhere from $22-$30+ a box for 20rnds.

(In my area, when available) 175gr SMK's around $35 a box and 1lb Reloader 15 also about $35 = $70

1lb Reloader 15 I can usually do a little over 100 reloads, plus 100 comes in a box of SMK.

For match grade reloads shooting bug holes and outdoing Walmart ammo, I am paying around $0.70 cents per rnd.

For the turds your buying at Walmart that are lucky to be 1-1.5moa ammo your paying $1.XX a round.

 

[RFtinkerer]

I'd seriously consider Prvi Partizan ammo. It's in stock at Midway now, Prvi Partizan Ammo 308 Winchester 145 Grain Full Metal Jacket About $0.70 per shot. And fairly accurate in my Savage 10FCP rifle, sub MOA, out to 100 yards (bad BC for long range.) Not the best obviously, but I determined it's good enough for short range practice, helping my high power rifle handling skills.

I shoot 22 as well, but I have a backyard range really nice for 22, so obviously that's a big factor for me. Also, I have a wife and 3 kids who demand my time in addition to a job, so time is a big factor. You're right though, 22 does not replace the handling skills high power needs. 22 is very forgiving to bad positions, bipod loading, follow through, etc. Although it is great for stability practice and better than dry fire.

 

[CleanMoostang]

I'd seriously consider Prvi Partizan ammo. It's in stock at Midway now, Prvi Partizan Ammo 308 Winchester 145 Grain Full Metal Jacket About $0.70 per shot. And fairly accurate in my Savage 10FCP rifle, sub MOA, out to 100 yards (bad BC for long range.) Not the best obviously, but I determined it's good enough for short range practice, helping my high power rifle handling skills.

I shoot 22 as well, but I have a backyard range really nice for 22, so obviously that's a big factor for me. Also, I have a wife and 3 kids who demand my time in addition to a job, so time is a big factor. You're right though, 22 does not replace the handling skills high power needs. 22 is very forgiving to bad positions, bipod loading, follow through, etc. Although it is great for stability practice and better than dry fire.

Have to disagree with you on dry firing. I sit down multiple times a week with my LR rifle and Timney trigger and dry fire it numerous times, sometimes for 10-15 minutes while working the action to practice both my load times, and trigger pull.

No other gun will help you obtain the perfect trigger pull for a particular rifle, than that particular rifle itself.

Dont let plinking take place of the practice and training with ANY rifle...NOTHING is ever the same.