I like the idea of changing my barrels. I need go/no go gauges. A barrel vise. An action wrench. A barrel nut wrench. And a torque wrench. What else? Who makes a good barrel? I've read mixed reviews about E. R. Shaw.
Gunsmithing Tools needed for remage conversion.
- Thread starter Jscb1b
- Start date
Call James at Northland shooters supply. His business is Remage barrels and conversions. He sells the tools and parts. Great guy with plenty of knowledge. He will get you set up. I have 4 of his criterion barrels and they all shoot great.
For the love of God, don't buy an er Shaw unless you are looking to save every last penny. You can buy a Criterion for around $300 from NSS, and they usually shoot lights out. Under .5 moa no problem and usually .3-.4 moa. Some better. I have burned through several Criterion barrels. For what you pay they are hammers.
Totally agree. My criterion barrels are all sub .5 barrels. Can’t beat the price or the service.
NSS prefits are awesome
Lots of other great sources as well.
Your tool list looks good.
I get all of my prefits from Keysone and NSS.
Lots of other great sources as well.
Your tool list looks good.
I get all of my prefits from Keysone and NSS.
You have covered the bases pretty well. I would recommend Northland’s action wrench with the taper lock add on to maintain recoil lug position. It works great with their proprietary recoil lugs. I highly recommend the lugs also. I use them on all of my builds. Don’t forget go and no go gauges.
I've changed about 20 remage barrels - mostly taking them off and remounting for various reasons.
You need either a barrel vise or an action wrench but not both.
I am using the vise inserts from Brownells in a bench vise [i.e., I didn't buy a new barrel vise] with rosin; anti seize, go/no go gauges and a remage nut wrench.
The torque people recommend ranges from 35-40 to 80lbs. I choose 50lbs as my target. With a 1 foot wrench, I imagine the force needed to pick up a 50lb bag of water softener salt. I'm thinking I'm accurate to within +/- 7lbs. I try to err on the high side.
I did start out with the action wrench from NSS and that is easier because it keeps the action from moving once you've set the go headspace. I'm not using the their action wrench because the chassis I've got doesn't allow it.
If you use the barrel vise, you just screw the action onto the barrel with the go gauge chambered. When the action meets resistance from the go gauge, hold the action while you snug down the barrel nut. For the last part to put on the ~ 50lbs, I do that slowly and hold the action as best I can. About 1 time out of 5 the action will move and I have to redo it.
After it's nice and tight, I check the no go. I check no go after full torque is applied so that checking no go doesn't move the action.
FWIW, zeros are within a couple minutes after remounting the same barrel. Often within a minute.
You need either a barrel vise or an action wrench but not both.
I am using the vise inserts from Brownells in a bench vise [i.e., I didn't buy a new barrel vise] with rosin; anti seize, go/no go gauges and a remage nut wrench.
The torque people recommend ranges from 35-40 to 80lbs. I choose 50lbs as my target. With a 1 foot wrench, I imagine the force needed to pick up a 50lb bag of water softener salt. I'm thinking I'm accurate to within +/- 7lbs. I try to err on the high side.
I did start out with the action wrench from NSS and that is easier because it keeps the action from moving once you've set the go headspace. I'm not using the their action wrench because the chassis I've got doesn't allow it.
If you use the barrel vise, you just screw the action onto the barrel with the go gauge chambered. When the action meets resistance from the go gauge, hold the action while you snug down the barrel nut. For the last part to put on the ~ 50lbs, I do that slowly and hold the action as best I can. About 1 time out of 5 the action will move and I have to redo it.
After it's nice and tight, I check the no go. I check no go after full torque is applied so that checking no go doesn't move the action.
FWIW, zeros are within a couple minutes after remounting the same barrel. Often within a minute.
I use one of these: https://shop.otmtactical.com/Viper-Barrel-Vise.html reasonably priced, and works well.
I would never waste my time doing any of that.
Just get the taper lock lug alignment for 25 bucks and youll be good to go.
I used a Criterion barrel from Northland - used a Brownells vice to remove the factory barrel (that took some serious force). To install the new barrel I used the action wrench and taper lock recoil lug from Northland as well as their barrel nut socket and a torque wrench. Head spaced using their Go/No Go gauges. The hardest part was removing the factory barrel. Once you’ve done that you won’t need a barrel vice.
I have the same barrel and had similar results.
The “hardest” part was taking the factory barrel off from the action. It just took a little heat and a few strikes from my palm before coming loose.
I purchased everything I needed for my first remage from NSS, except the torque wrench and anti-sieze. He makes it too easy.
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