Is there a standard torque spec for a prefit shouldered barrel or should I just email the action manufacturer?
Gunsmithing Torque spec for prefit shouldered barrel?
- Thread starter chevytruck_83
- Start date
Torque specs are pretty broad, but I usually stick around 75 ft. lbs., rechecking headspace after I finish. I've never had headspace come out of spec as a result of higher torque numbers. If tenon diameter and threads are good and trued, and the receiver threads are good and trued, if will be a nice snug fit, and higher torque numbers are unnecessary.
I have a couple of non-quick change AI's and i torque them to 85FP never needed to go any more
I run 98-100 ft lbs on my Atlas actions.
Kelbly recommends 100-150 If memory serves me correctly and since I'm running smaller short action calibers on both ( 6.5x47 and 65 creedmoor) I stay at the lower end of the spec. If I were to run a magnum caliber I might run closer to the higher torque spec.
Kelbly recommends 100-150 If memory serves me correctly and since I'm running smaller short action calibers on both ( 6.5x47 and 65 creedmoor) I stay at the lower end of the spec. If I were to run a magnum caliber I might run closer to the higher torque spec.
Contact the barrel MFG and/or action MFG to get the best answer.
I can't think of a R700 or clone receiver where we torque shouldered barrels less than 100 foot pounds. That is pretty much a standard. As others have mentioned, 75 is likely just fine. To be sure though, contact the MFGs.
Remember to clean the tenon and receiver threads then apply a light amount of anti-seize to the barrel tenon and very light amount on the face of the receiver where the barrel shoulders. Typically, galling happens more on that shoulder than the tenon. We see a lot of receivers come through our shop where guys have swapped lots of barrels and galling is present.
Take care,
I can't think of a R700 or clone receiver where we torque shouldered barrels less than 100 foot pounds. That is pretty much a standard. As others have mentioned, 75 is likely just fine. To be sure though, contact the MFGs.
Remember to clean the tenon and receiver threads then apply a light amount of anti-seize to the barrel tenon and very light amount on the face of the receiver where the barrel shoulders. Typically, galling happens more on that shoulder than the tenon. We see a lot of receivers come through our shop where guys have swapped lots of barrels and galling is present.
Take care,
I just got a Nucleus action and am ready to put my new Hawk Hill Barrel on it. I emailed ARC and the response was, "For barrel torque, many people torque to about 80 ft*lb." I don't know who the respondent was but, nonetheless, this was the response and it's sensible based upon the research I've done and that of others I've spoken to regarding the process. My suspicion is that the email response was somewhat cryptic to avoid any litigation in event someone puts a barrel on and does something stupid.....
I use a quality EP-2 grease, if it excells in high speed bearings under load then it's more than adequate for a simple threaded connection.
Have also used Mos-70 molybdenum paste in the past you just have to adjust your torque spec accordingly due to its coefficient of friction rating.
Have also used Mos-70 molybdenum paste in the past you just have to adjust your torque spec accordingly due to its coefficient of friction rating.
If your going to use anti-size use a nickel base or something specific for the two metals since the majority of barrels and actions are stainless I would use something made specifically for stainless.
Not sure if it could be an issue down the road but the copper based formulas and stainless you could run into problems with corrosion due to disimilar metals.
I just use a quality EP-2 grease since I always have a couple of tubes of it for my drive line and chassis on my jeep.
It will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Big Horn says 75-85 for 223-308 barrels and 100-120 for magnums
Big Horn says 75-85 for 223-308 barrels and 100-120 for magnums
