Gunsmithing Torque wrench for action wrench

prwillard2

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Looking for some guidance on a decent torque wrench for changing barrels on my Kelbly's tactical atlas action. Will be using this tool: http://www.pmatool.com/panda-and-remington-hex-end-action-wrench/

Have used a cheap torque wrench from Amazon with poor results. Couldn't get it to click/break at the right poundage.

And I assume I'll need an adaptor for the drive and the action wrench? 3/8(or whatever I get on the torque wrench) to 5/8?
 
Not sure what you want to spend but I use a Snap on 1/2" drive digital Tech wrench, it's very precise and will show you the exact number either over or under your target torque when you release tension.

But any decent click or gauge type torque wrench will serve you well.

Regarding the adapters I'm not 100% what you are asking, you just need a 5/8" socket with the appropriate drive to match your wrench.

Also I'm sure you know but have to say it anyway, do not use any torque wrench for breaking a connection. ?
 
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I use one of these when I want to be accurate setting torque. https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2...f_rd_t=40701&refRID=V1YNHMNSS35NC66EZJJY&th=1

That said, I have been putting shouldered barrels back on lately where I get them tight and just give a little pop to the ratchet with my hand to set tension on the threads which has worked fine. Just get a 5/8 nut for whatever drive size torque wrench you buy and you'll be in business.
 
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A torque wrench does not stay calibrated forever, not even an expensive one. You can get a pretty good plus minus by just manipulating the wrench differently. I think the cheapest one you can find is plenty for gun work. I like to use an old beam style ftlbs torque wrench.
 
A torque wrench does not stay calibrated forever, not even an expensive one. You can get a pretty good plus minus by just manipulating the wrench differently. I think the cheapest one you can find is plenty for gun work. I like to use an old beam style ftlbs torque wrench.

Totally agree, that's why I occasionaly track down a snap on rep and buy something off the truck and get my wrench checked for calibration. It hasn't needed recalibrated yet but I'm a tool whore and it makes me feel better.
I have two other torque wrenches that are smaller (3/8 and 1/4 ) that I have used only on AR's and light vehicle use that are cheaper that have been spot on.
 
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A torque wrench does not stay calibrated forever, not even an expensive one. You can get a pretty good plus minus by just manipulating the wrench differently. I think the cheapest one you can find is plenty for gun work. I like to use an old beam style ftlbs torque wrench.

+1

We're not tightening primary coolant valves in a nuke plant or wing spar bolts on a airplane here.....
 
Cdi is good and I believe they are owned by snap on. Compare them to the snap on split beam and they look very similar as well but cheaper. I like this style better than a micrometer style because you leave then set where they are at instead of backing them off every time when you are done.

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/Item...MI-byesYyJ3QIVUdbACh0GhAT5EAQYASABEgKza_D_BwE

+1 for CDI, yes they are owned by Snap-On and make excellent torque wrenches I have 6 of them. You can get very competitive prices on them at Pro Torque Tools (protorquetools.com) .
 
Just a heads up on torque wrenches in general:

A decent bar type torque wrench, ideally made in US, will cost around the same or a bit more than a cheap ratchet type torque wrench. They're generally very accurate, more than a cheaper ratchet (again, if you get a decent one, and if you take care of it). So depends on how much you'll use it o
 
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The problem with a click type torque wrench set is that you can't measure the running torque ( the effort to turn the item) and add it to the required final torque of the connection. This leads to under-torque. A snapon tech wrench works nicely, a beam type wrench works as does a dial wrench. Something else that screws people up is adding an extension like a crows foot or spanner. If it isn't installed at a 90 degree to the wrench it adds to the applied torque by effectiv!y adding to the length of the wrench
 
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The problem with a click type torque wrench set is that you can't measure the running torque ( the effort to turn the item) and add it to the required final torque of the connection. This leads to under-torque. A snapon tech wrench works nicely, a beam type wrench works as does a dial wrench. Something else that screws people up is adding an extension like a crows foot or spanner. If it isn't installed at a 90 degree to the wrench it adds to the applied torque by effectiv!y adding to the length of the wrench

Excellent summary from Iht 645 and good pick up on using a Crowfoot or spanner. Here's a nice link on how to calculate proper torque when using various extensions, very useful. (http://www.fordservicecontent.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_main_en.asp)
 
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Does anyone know what type of bit connects an action wrench to a 1/2 inch drive? Just ordered a Tikka action wrench from bugholes so I can pop on prefits
 
with proper technique, you don’t need a torque wrench for a proper barrel with a decent shoulder.
With proper anti seize hand tighten in vice, come back about 1/4 turn and the with “moderate“ pressure snap it back, tight, done. every BR barrel I’ve ever done on multiple actions this exact way and cases after switch are generally within 1/2 thou on the shoulder and they don’t move post tighten.
I’d bet the majority if BR barrels go on just like this.