Re: TReMoR 2 Reticle Specifications
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mike the results you saw are very predictable, and just demonstrates how something like suggesting it, when you have the horsepower of the guy in the DVD can really hurt people in the long run. Suggesting fringe "work arounds" where, yes, if you dial on 600 yards to your scope and your turret gets cut off, then you can get away with using this zero point until you can replace it. <span style="font-style: italic">(FYI I saw a student shear his windage knob off a S&B that continued to work without the windage knob. In fact he didn't see it and after the drill i handed him the knob I picked up) </span>
There was a training opportunity in the dvd at this point. The first would have been to explain the fact that you weren't gonna get a zero with a 40MOA cant, the second could have been a field expedient method to compensate. This is where the scope drill similar to the scope swap monkey drill would have worked better. Show how if you have a damaged scope in the field, you can use what you have and demonstrate the method to compensate to include if you had an MOA turret. A good instructor not promoting a singular product like the horus or the stomp would have seen this and then fixed the problem by removing the stomp. Instead of making it appear, the combination used was worth the cool guy factor.
Bottom line, it's common sense, and common sense approaches tend to do better than something for the sake of shameless promotion.
For Rick,
Our eyes are drawn to the center of the reticle, we like the fine intersection. Also, in terms of scope quality the center of the reticle is the "sweet spot" where in lesser quality scopes you risk distortion around the edges. Thirdly, picture the reduced FOV, you're taking an already closed system and cutting it down to a 1/3rd. In the same context, think of spotting your impacts at distance, where is it easier to see, where do you tend to see it. Overly that thinking of trying to spot your own impact with a compromised FOV and you run into a problem novice handgun shooter see, where they move the sights trying to see the hit on target. They lower the pistol so not to block the target and thus trend low. If you are holding at the edges, you'll soon realize the view downrange is greatly reduced, so you'll want to bring the scope back to center. We like the middle of things, and fine aiming points.
In the context of precision, consider that competition shooters "zero" for range to minimize the amount of deviation from center. They dial windage, they have sight inserts to give them a solid sight picture because this breeds consistency and accuracy. Will it work in a pinch, minute of full value numb nuts, yes, it will, but I would also suggest as soon as you got back you fix or replace it. Doing it on purpose, is silly. Quartering a target is always the most desirable sight picture, you can even slice and intersect with windage, but without a whole lot of practice holding around the edges, I will guarantee a limited amount of success.
In a word, Rick, you moved the sights to 400 yards because the mover was the highest value target, it also allowed you stay closer to the center of the reticle while engaging multiple targets at multiple distances. So you focused on your highest priority the mover, and then worked field. Staying closer to the center also made it easier for a new shooter not used to the technique to reference the windage easier. So it gave multiple lessons in a single drill, but at the end of the day you were able to return the scope to "0".
I will also note for ELR I tend to dial my scope, because 1. I have time and opportunity to fine tune the adjustment. At 2000m the threat to the shooter is reduced, so taking the time to dope and dial helps with precision. If it requires me to follow up because I missed, I am hopefully closer to the center of the reticle increasing my ability to see the impact and only requiring a small adjustment for a second shot follow up. I get the maximum benefit from using my high dollar optic. I am not limiting my options by potentially hitting too low to see, or requiring me to dial off my magnification to loose fine details. Can I do it, sure if I tailor the target along with a beneficial downrange landscape, but for maximum effectiveness where I don't control the variables, the best chance for an ELR hit is by staying in the center of my optic with my windage and elevation dialed. In higher wind conditions too dialing some windage also helps me stay in the center.
There is the "WHY" to all this, none of which has anything to do about looking cool or promoting any product, and everything about maximizing the precision. Holds in that fashion are about speed and efficiency inside the shooters danger space, after you go beyond a point of danger to the shooter, it's always more desirable to set up the shot correctly. Which is why Rick the drill you did only went to 600 yards and not out to 800" which we have done and you can do, but significantly reduces your effectiveness. </div></div>
Thanks for info.
