Trying to finish up...what else do I still need?

[earthquake]

I think, I may be close to being able to start reloading...finally! What else do I need to get started?

Here's what I have:

Press - Lee Challenger Kit with the included accessories: Powder scale, hand priming tool, powder dispenser, some primer pocket tools, case lube pad.
Dies - Redding Competition seater die, and Type-S bushing FL sizer die, 6.5mm Creedmoor. (I don't have a neck bushing yet, don't know what size i need)
Powd - 10lbs. H4350 & Varget.
Primers - 2,000 Fed 210m
Pills - 400 Berger VLD half in 130 gr, half in 140 gr hyb, and 50 140 gr Amax from Hornady.
Brass - ~600+ Hornady once fired, fired in my rifle.

Else - I've got calipers, a micrometer, bullet comparator kit, OAL gague, Berger reloading manual.

I still need a brass trimmer, and am wondering what else I need in brass prep department? (Tumbler or ultrasonic tank?) Do I need a annealing machine? Also still don't have a bench yet, but am heading to Home Depot to see about buying the raw materials to build it this weekend...though I'm the world's worst carpenter!

I'm starting to feel a bit overwhelmed the more I read and the more I think I need...considering throwing in the towel, selling it all and just buying ammo as it seems to be more readily available nowadays and easier to find than reloading components. Time is money too, and I don't find myself with much of that either these days! Interested in hearing from anyone else that got to this point and felt the same way. Did you decide to do it, or not, and was it worth it?

Thanks in advance for any guidance sent my way.

 

[jkonzal]

If you are going to shoot long range, you NEED to reload. I would recommend a sonic cleaner. Lots of opinions out there on that tho! For annealing, just get a camp stove gas bottle and a torch head from Ace. It will do all you need to do! Good luck with your bench. Try to anchor it to the wall.

 

[kd185]

Reddings Imperial Sizing wax
best case lube on the market
without making it yorself with lanolin and 99% alchol

 

[milo 2.0]

fox.
There's a lot of guys in your same situation, can buy good ammo at a reasonable price, have limited time, so why go through the aggravation? By your post I'm assuming it's a 6.5 Creedmore you have, and your paying about 25.00 a box, or 1.25 per round. By the way you acquired your brass, depreciating it out will take some time, but if you had just bought brass, and components, with the amax there's no reason you couldn't have come in at well under .50 a round. One can't figure in equipment costs, because it's an asset, and resalable.

With any load, factory or hand, sooner or later it's going to quit working, with factory, you can't change much. As for accuracy, if your handloads can't exceed factory ammo, that would be the time to sell!

As for time, if you decide to reload, if you don't take the time, you don't shoot, it's simple. I don't work anymore, so comparing my time to anyone's is moot, but at my last job, I just got up an hour early every day, and loading for 3 rifles, I was able to keep up, and shoot most weekends. I'm not saying I didn't have to spend some time in the evenings prepping brass also.

I'll quit babbling, given the fact you can fall back on factory ammo, and have most of the gear, you have nothing to loose by trying it. The gratification you will get from cleaning the range some day with 1st rd hits, and finishing it up by shooting a nifty little 2 1/2" group at 1K with your handloads, well, just do it.

Oh yeah, as per some dipshit on here last week, there's handloaders, and then there's reloaders. WOW, step up to the plate with guys like me who are now handloaders!

 

[lightman]

Fox, it looks like you nearly have it covered. You can spend as much on case trimming as you want to spend. The little Lee cutter, lock stud and case gauge can get you set up for about $12.00 or less. Thats the low end. The high end would be a Giraud for something in the $450 range. In between, there are 3 or 4 tools like the Lee, and 5 or 6 lathe type trimmers. All of these will do a good or at least an ok job.

Clean cases are important, shiney clean is a nice option, but not necessary. Like case trimming, there are lots of options. You can wipe your cases off with something like a "crazy cloth" or Never Dull. Wet tumbling is getting very popular on this site. There is a long thread here in the reloading section about it. Corncob or walnut media in a vibratory or rotary tumbler works well. Ultrasonic is another option.

You will want to anneal, sooner or later. It could be much later! I loaded for 35 years before I started annealing. If everyones QC had not fallen off during the recent panic, I still would not be annealing. I do lots of prep to my cases and it hurts to lose cases to neck splits on the first or second firing. Once again, you can spend as much or as little as you want, from a propane torch and a socket to a machine that cost a few hundred dollars.

You might want to buy at least another book. I personally like the Lyman, as it has lots of info on starting to reload. I don't see any loading trays in your post, either. Some loaders don't like them, but I use them.

I would also suggest ordering a Sinclair catalog. They offer lots of medium and high level gear, and lots of info.

There are endless options on loading benches. There is a long thread here in the photography section on members benches. Lots of great ideas are pictured.

Reloading is not for everybody. Some of us really get into it, while others look at it as too much work, or don't have the time. I have some friends that got set up to load and did not stay with it. You just have to try it and see for yourself. The good news it that reloading equipment holds its value pretty good and you can recover some of your cost if you get out. If you shoot enough to have 600 once fired cases from your rifle, you can really benefit from loading!

Damn, I'm babbling nearly as much as Milo! Just kidding, Milo. I always find your post informative and interesting. There is a lot of satisfaction in shooting a clean score with your own ammo. Lightman

 

[8AteEight]

I started 4or5 years ago, and I remember feeling rather overloaded just before starting. I think it helped that I started on straight wall pistol cartridges, then went to rifle. I think your strong point is you got a decent single stage setup (Lee bashers will be along shortly, I'm sure).
It may be a great idea to stop buying more stuff temporarily, and reread the first of the Lee manual. I retained a lot more information after the second reading. If it gets boring, pick up a second manual. In my area, the local library had 5 manuals on the shelf, including the latest Speer.
It is a really addictive hobby, but I remember that I feared losing a hand for the first couple of days out while testing loads. It gets much better with practice and experience. (But don't get complacent, either.) IF you stick with it, you'll at least know if it's something you want to continue to do..

wake me up when the nightmare is gone..(2016 I hope)

 

[earthquake]

Thanks all! I decided to stick with it, and I built my bench today. I'll post up some photos soon. I got some Xmas money and think I need to get a better powder scale than the little balance one that came with my Lee kit. So, right now I really need recommendations on the following:

1. Powder scales. (Should I look at electronic, or stick with a balance type?)

2. Brass trimmer. (I traded a member here some bullets for one of those zip-trimmers from Lee(?). Though, it shipped to my folks's house in OH and ended up getting there late after I'd already leaft. It's in OH, I'm in CO, so I haven't even seen it yet. Reminds me that I'll need to put a bench vise on my bench to use it....so maybe I don't need a brass trimmer?)

3. Tumbler and media separator. (I saw on Natchez(?) a combo for both at ~$66)

Those are the bigger ticket, more important items I need to pick up.

I also need:

4. bullet puller,
5. neck size bushings,
6. the case lube someone above recommended, though my press kit came with some Lee resizing lube,
7. I need a powder trickler,
8. ??

Again, thanks for the help and encouragement! I am looking forward to seeing some results once I get into the swing of all this. I'll have to ask some of the guys I shoot with to stop by and get me started perhaps. And yes, Milo, it's a 6.5mm Creedmoor. Oh, and I do have two, 50 round, case trays...someone asked if I had those or not.

 

[witchhunter]

Judging by your choice of calibers, the creedmoor, and your components, you sound like a precision shooter. You will be able to make better ammo than factory. Cheaper too. You still need a couple of things, but you are well on your way. Brass prep tools are very important to precision reloading. Sinclair is a great place to start. By making your own ammo, you will learn much about shooting as you will be shooting more. Simple. Don't get discouraged by the lack of availability right now, it will get better.

 

[rookie101]

My wife bought me a little lyman electronic scale that has a little powder trickler with it. I would advise starting with small batches of reloads first, test them, then continue. When I first began reloading on more than one occasion I did something stupid, like set the seater/crimp die to low and crushed or buckled cases. Found out later when the cartridge would not chamber (buckled cases) or when it would not fire (slightly crushed shoulder, too short, firing pin would not engage primer). A lot of guys have gauges that you can drop a loaded bullet into, it shows whether or not it's good. Cheap ass that I am, I will remove the bolt, barrel, whatever (to be safe) and drop the cartridge into the chamber. With some practice comparing it to a factory bullet you know where it should sit. I am sure I am going to get flak for that procedure, but it has worked for me.

 

[lightman]

Thats Great! Love to see some pics. I'll address some more of your questions; 1. Scale-- Learn to use the scale that you have. Practice on a few bullets. Later on, move up to something else. The
Chargemaster is a favorite here. Keep your other one for backup.

2. Trimmer-- The Lee will get you started. By the time you get tired of it you will have an idea about what you would rather
have.

3. Tumbler-- The more expensive are the Dillon and the Thumlers. Lots of loaders buy the smaller/cheaper ones and get
good service from them. Let your wallet decide! A separator is nice, but not a have to item.

4. Bullet Puller-- This is nice to have, but can wait until you need it. Same thing with a stuck case remover. I like the
die/collet style better than the hammer type. Any brand will work.

5. You will need these! I think I saw another thread where you were asking how to measure. Most of us buy about 3 sizes.
Redding and Wilson will both fit your Redding dies.

6. Case Lube-- Use what you have and shop for some Imperial. I also like the Dillon spray lube.

7. Powder Trickler--I like the heavy ones, like RCBS or Redding. They will make using your scale easier. I also like to
use a set of the lee dippers when scale weighing charges. A powder measure will do the same thing.

8. A mentor would be great! Just remember, most of us did not buy everything that we have all at once. Unless you have
really deep pockets, start small and grow into it. Some of us have a big investment in this hobby, but most did not do
it over night. Hope this helps, Lightman

 

[earthquake]

Here's some quick photos. I still have to cut and fasten the peg-boards and stain/laquer the top. It's 72" wide x 30" deep x 43" tall. I wanted it tall so I could work both sitting and standing. It's anchored to the wall behind and I have the press mounted between two 4" x 4" posts for maximum strength (no flexing in the table there).







Actually pretty excited about starting this whole process now. I've since picked up a couple more pounds of H4350.

Any tips for where to set things up on the table? I have no idea yet where/how I should mount my powder dispenser, or my scale!

 

[SWThomas]

Chamfer/deburr tool, bump gauge, flash hole reamer, primer pocket cleaner/uniforming tool.

 

[milo 2.0]

Here's some quick photos. I still have to cut and fasten the peg-boards and stain/laquer the top. It's 72" wide x 30" deep x 43" tall. I wanted it tall so I could work both sitting and standing. It's anchored to the wall behind and I have the press mounted between two 4" x 4" posts for maximum strength (no flexing in the table there).
Any tips for where to set things up on the table? I have no idea yet where/how I should mount my powder dispenser, or my scale!

You've got your press in right location for a right hander! Enough room to the right of it for a can of beer and a ashtray. I don't see any electrical outlets, wire a couple 4 plugs in before you mount the peg board. Hate to say it, but peg board is pretty worthless, you can hang load trays, a hammer type bullet puller, most of the rest of the stuff a guy uses will sit on a shelf a little nicer???

Go back to Home Despot and get a couple steel cupboards.

Fox, I hate to critique someone's work but, you really need to cut a 2x4 and connect all those front legs, or the ones in line with each other, one good kick to that center 4x4 and you'll rip those top screws right out. You need one on each side, front to back. A bottom shelf would've cured all that!

 

[earthquake]

Thanks, I do have an outlet behind the pegboard that I'm attaching a multiport surge protector to, and I will be putting 2x4 framing in to connect the legs and build the lower shelf...just haven't gotten to it yet. That's what all that lumber is on the floor under the bench. Will take care of that on Christmas break in the next coupla days.

 

[milo 2.0]

Thanks, I do have an outlet behind the pegboard that I'm attaching a multiport surge protector to, and I will be putting 2x4 framing in to connect the legs and build the lower shelf...just haven't gotten to it yet. That's what all that lumber is on the floor under the bench. Will take care of that on Christmas break in the next coupla days.

Good!

 

[damoncali]

For what it's worth, the Berger book is not a very good one. (Hey, it's the 1st edition - the other guys have been doing this for decades). The instruction section is brief, and lets just say some of the info on the calibers reads like it was thrown together without a ton of care. Although they're not terribly clear about it (they sort of gloss over this quickly), it looks like the Berger book was compiled from Quickload data or something similar, rather than actual test firings. There is good and bad in that, but it's the only book I know of that relies on software rather than physical tests.

I would recommend the Lyman book for its instructions - it's one of the best.

 

[lightman]

Looking Good! I'll second the lower shelf. Also second the Lyman book. The top being 30 inches deep is enough to put a set of shelves in front of the peg board, then you have the best of both worlds. You also don't have to do everything at once. A fellow could go broke, ya know? I would set my new gear on the top and look at it a little before drilling holes. C-clamps are good for this, if you have any. Be sure to show off what else you do to your new bench. Lightman

 

[witchhunter]

Yup, the pegboard has got to go. You will find that sturdy shelves will be much better. A bottom shelf will reinforce your legs too. You will thank us for this some day. I like the light. You ar off to a great start. I like imperial die wax too!

 

[earthquake]

No pegboard?!?!? Ok...

Quick question: Which VLD seating stem do I need? Standard 1" or long 1-3/16"? You can get either for 6.5mm Creedmoor and I can't seem to find info on Sinclair or Redding's websites to answer this question. I'll be shooting Berger 130 VLD match and 140 VLD hybrid match bullets.

Long: Redding Competition Long VLD Seater Stems | Sinclair Intl

Std: REDDING COMPETITION STANDARD LENGTH VLD SEATER STEMS | Sinclair Intl

 

[milo 2.0]

No pegboard?!?!? Ok...

Quick question: Which VLD seating stem do I need? Standard 1" or long 1-3/16"? You can get either for 6.5mm Creedmoor and I can't seem to find info on Sinclair or Redding's websites to answer this question. I'll be shooting Berger 130 VLD match and 140 VLD hybrid match bullets.

Long: Redding Competition Long VLD Seater Stems | Sinclair Intl

Std: REDDING COMPETITION STANDARD LENGTH VLD SEATER STEMS | Sinclair Intl

Good question, this is one listed for 6.5 creed;

Gunstop Reloading Supplies - Redding Reloading Dies

I think I have the long one in my 6.5 x 47 die, the micro top is almost at it's upper limit, I could've used the short one.

 

[8AteEight]

One thought for the bottom shelf: if you crisscrossed the 2x4s on the right half of the table, you could cut a slight relief in the same area. The lower shelf (OK, I) always caused my shins a few bruises. However, this is one of the things that I noticed from MY experience.. YMMV.

ignore what is stated here: this guy is completely talking out of his ass.

 

[ShtrRdy]

No pegboard?!?!? Ok...

Quick question: Which VLD seating stem do I need? Standard 1" or long 1-3/16"? You can get either for 6.5mm Creedmoor and I can't seem to find info on Sinclair or Redding's websites to answer this question. I'll be shooting Berger 130 VLD match and 140 VLD hybrid match bullets.

Long: Redding Competition Long VLD Seater Stems | Sinclair Intl

Std: REDDING COMPETITION STANDARD LENGTH VLD SEATER STEMS | Sinclair Intl

I was able to just use the seating stem that came with the Redding die. Just try that first to see if it'll work for you. You can take the seating stem out of the die and insert your chosen bullets in them to see if the tip of the bullet contacts before the ogive.

 

[earthquake]

Finished! (?)







I had to use at least one piece of pegboard! I have been perusing all the instruction manuals that came with my gear and my reloading book. Familiarizing myself with everything before beginning. I'm still undecided if I want to get a different trimmer or not. The one I have that fits into my drill from Lee doesn't instill much confidence. The brass wobbles as it spins and something tells me that's not good. I'm looking at that World's Best Trimmer real hard. At only $60 it looks/seems like a deal over hand crank trimmers at double the co$t.

 

[fish30114]

Hey brother, like others have said, it looks like your off to a good start. On trimmers, I have a bunch of them, A Giraud, a Wilson/Sinclair ultimate, a couple of the WFT's, and the Lee system with many lock studs. As a general rule I don't like lee products, but two exceptions to that are the Trimmer Setup and the Lee Neck sizing Collet die. Don't discount the Lee trimmer just yet, the wobble is OK that stud just controls length, so as long as your letting the case make a complete revolution it will trim all that is necessary to get it to the right length. Just FYI my favorite trimmer is the Wilson/Sinclair rig, even though it requires separate case holders for every different parent case you trim. I do like my WFT's just FYI they do a fine job. Two things that are small pieces that I just really like are the Caliber specific Satern powder funnels, and the Heavy Duty loading blocks from Sinclair. Definitely not must haves, just little things that I feel make the process a little more enjoyable.

Good Luck with get rolling!

 

[tanker1509]

Hey cofox, looks like you are well on your way. I would recommend looking for a reloading class at a local gun shop. I have gone to a couple over the years. A lot of the time they are free, as they figure they will sell you a bunch of gear once your hooked on the hobby. My first reloading manual 35 years ago was a hornady and if found answers to many of my ?'s in there. The other thing u might see if u can find someone at a local club that might help u out. When u start out u don't need a ton of gear but over the years it seems to accumulate. Don't buy a ton of stuff till you know you need it. A good press dies scale micrometer and a few handtools is all you need to start. Oh and reloading manuals get more than one so you can compare. Any older ones u find make sue they have the caliber you want in them before u buy. The 6.5 creed is fairly new so older used manuals might not have that data. Enjoy it's a lot of fun, can be a great way to spend a day when its to cold too shoot.

 

[JB02]

- Get a stainless media tumbler. Well worth it. Buy a lee de-capping die to pop off the primers before you tumble them
- Imperial sizing wax. Best stuff ever. I run the cases through corn cob media after sizing to rub off the wax and sizing die marks
- RCBS Charmaster 1500. Saves oodles of time. I resisted getting one for so long because i balked at the cost. Should've had it from day one
- Headspace comparison gauges. You only should bump the should back ~ 0.002" every time you size
- As far as a bullet puller, I find a good impact type is good for onesey twosey slip-ups; the collet style is need when you need to pull several dozen
- Eventually you'll need to stuck case remover. It happens to us all.

If you start hand loading pistol or 3 gun rifle, you'll want to move up to a progressive.

 

[Timbco84]

Hey pal, I started reloading about a year ago and can offer a little bit of advice. I ended up getting the forster trimmer and like the fact that it is a hand crank a lot cuz you can feel everything that you are doing, if something is out of whack, you notice it immediately. I also have it set up for neck turning and bought the caliber specific 3 in 1 cutter so it trims/chamfers/deburrs all at the same time. Everything forster I have bought has been top notch quality. Sinclair stuff is also top notch. I made the mistake of buying some of the RCBS hand tools like flash hole deburrer, primer pocket reamer, etc and can tell you from experience that they are low quality, hard parts wobbly/out of round with handles, and loses their sharp edge quickly. I ended up going the ultrasonic cleaner setup (hornady) and I like it a lot, I use a decapping die to pop the primers and then the cleaner gets all the garbage out of everywhere.