I had a gunsmith buddy of mine take the barrel of my rem 700 in 243 and while doing so twisted the action said it was broke but the bolt was really hard to get in wondering if the action is any good im using it for a either a 6.5cm or a 260 rem long range tactical rifle should i just scrap it or have him try and fix it and straighten it back out i have alo of money in parts and time for this rifle so i dont want to get it put together and find out im totally fucked
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Gunsmithing Twisted rem 700 action
- Thread starter 6.5creedmoor
- Start date
You're going to find out soon enough if hes really your buddy or not. Im with uasfabrad in thinking your buddy the gunsmith owes you some dinero. I'm no smith but I think of an action like the frame of a car. Once its rigidity is manipulated out of spec its trashed.
Last edited:
Never, I repeat NEVER attempt to remove a factory installed Remington barrel with a rear entry action wrench.
What they said, he owes you an action. If he doesn't deliver, he's not your buddy. We already know he's not a gunsmith so don't let him do any more work on your stuff.
1911fan
1911fan
I just don't understands why poeple is having ALL dis trouble wit removing stock Remington barrels. You replacing de barrel right?
So why be worrying about dat barrel?
Chuck that whole thing up in de lathe and cut a groove just forward of de recoil lug. She gonna spin right off dere, no stress addall.
So why be worrying about dat barrel?
Chuck that whole thing up in de lathe and cut a groove just forward of de recoil lug. She gonna spin right off dere, no stress addall.
I guess I've been lucky at removing factory Remington barrels. The hardest one I've had to remove took four good whacks on the Wheeler action wrench handle with a heavy short handled dead blow. Of course I've only done about 15.
One thing I've learned, is that you can get the action wrench too tight.
One thing I've learned, is that you can get the action wrench too tight.
I've got the Wheeler action wrench for factory barrel removal. I like this type since it can be snugged up very close against the barrel vise, which greatly reduces the likelihood of torquing an action. The worst factory barrel that I've encountered did require that I climb onto the workbench to get a better purchase on the wrench handle (I'm guessing that it let go somewhere in the neighborhood of 300-400 lb-ft), but so far I've yet to find one that simply will not come off.
Okay, the OP wants to know if the action can be fixed, not if his friend should pay for it or not. I'm sure he's old enough to know how to handle his friend. It can be fixed, but by someone who really knows what they are doing. Once you work metal in one direction, then back, it will lose strength. That was already said above, and I'm just agreeing. That said, if it were me, I would replace it. Just ask your self, is my life/limbs worth $500.00??
I can't think of a way to save it. Just twisting it in the opposite direction won't really straighten it back out.
IMO, stock remingtons are sloppy enough that you could probably untwist it and it would be fine. It's definitely not a safety issue because the part that's twisted is not the part that holds pressure. It's certainly not an ideal situation but just twist it the other way and if it doesn't break then I think it would be fine. BTW, bending a piece of metal makes it stronger unless it cracks/breaks. This is known as work hardening.
Just twist the bolt the same way, and call it the new "helix action".
Don't do it, that was a joke, and don't take it seriously. You're in the market for a new action... and depending on how good this 'buddy' is, he should be paying for it.
Don't do it, that was a joke, and don't take it seriously. You're in the market for a new action... and depending on how good this 'buddy' is, he should be paying for it.
LOL Wow the answer is in the details is your friend a qualified gunsmith ? or is your friend a wanabe gunsmith ? were you going to pay him for his services or was he doing it for free and lastly did you know what he was going to do and fail to listen to that little voice telling you " I sure hope he knows what he's doing " so consider this 1) you knew he was not qualified and let him do it any way thinking you would save a couple bucks over having a pro do it You bought it . 2) He is a pro and just totally screwed up he bought it 3)If he is a good friend chalk it up to an expensive learning curve you pay he pays you split it no matter not worth loosing a good friend over .
)
)
The Effects on Metal After Bending | eHow
Read this, and then please tell me how bending metal makes it better in any way. I understand that what it does do to it is make it harder than than it should be with every bend. This makes it brittle, which increases it chances for fatigue. I'm not trying to be a know it all. I'm way far from that, more like a dumb ass who has learned from mistakes, and not from books like real smart guys do. In this case, the action can be saved, just by someone who knows how to fab a jig where the action can be bent in the opposite direction without deforming it, that's all. Doesn't sound like the critical parts (integral lugs) were compromised. What I know about metal came from working 4 years in a fossil power plant, and 9 years at the nuclear power house. Again far from the education an engineer would have, but plenty of hands on experience fabricating/working with metal.
Read this, and then please tell me how bending metal makes it better in any way. I understand that what it does do to it is make it harder than than it should be with every bend. This makes it brittle, which increases it chances for fatigue. I'm not trying to be a know it all. I'm way far from that, more like a dumb ass who has learned from mistakes, and not from books like real smart guys do. In this case, the action can be saved, just by someone who knows how to fab a jig where the action can be bent in the opposite direction without deforming it, that's all. Doesn't sound like the critical parts (integral lugs) were compromised. What I know about metal came from working 4 years in a fossil power plant, and 9 years at the nuclear power house. Again far from the education an engineer would have, but plenty of hands on experience fabricating/working with metal.
This isn't the whole story. We don't really know what is twisted, and it could be jacked in an unsafe way. And not all metals work harden. Those that do become more brittle, and that is not usually a good thing.
Last edited:
Most actions that I've seen twisted (which can be counted on less than one hand) is between the breech bridge and the rear bridge. I'm assuming that is where the damage was done. I personally would have no qualms shooting such an action, if it could be straightened to function and kept true (raceways, action screw holes and scope base holes), since I believe when locked up the strength of the action rests on the barrel breech and the internal locking lugs and bolt. But that is just my opinion.
If the bolt will still go in it's not that tweaked.
Since the strength in the action is inherent in the bolt lockup at the breech, I believe that if it can be untwisted until the action mount screws are once again aligned and the bolt moves freely, it will not compromise the action.
I'd definitely bed the action in the stock once it's fixed, though.
If it were me I'd give it a go.
Joe
Since the strength in the action is inherent in the bolt lockup at the breech, I believe that if it can be untwisted until the action mount screws are once again aligned and the bolt moves freely, it will not compromise the action.
I'd definitely bed the action in the stock once it's fixed, though.
If it were me I'd give it a go.
Joe
+2
I'd do it just to see if I could.
Don't be so afraid to break things.
Take some pictures for us.
I'd do it just to see if I could.
Don't be so afraid to break things.
Take some pictures for us.
Bashing the "smith", however green he is won't make it better. You now have a twisted action, your mind knows this to be true. So no matter how much massaging you do, you will always think its off. Best to call it a day on that and move on.
I'd twist it back and run it but I'm the type of guy that would rather try to do something myself, if I screw it up, Then and only then do I seek qualified assistance. Usually I find what I did wrong and I'm good to go on the next try.
There is nothing straight about a Remington to start with. Twist it back to where everything looks straight and the bolt works freely. Put the guard screws in and check for aligment. The only critical area that carries any load is the receiver ring and I'm sure nothing was done to that area. The rest of the action just holds the trigger and the magazine and a scope base. I once a gave a pretty good twist to a Model 70 trying to brake a barrel loose. Learned my lesson on Winchesters. Receiver wrenches only from then on.
I would toss a gauge in it and see if I could tell where it's tweaked, could be twisted or bent. Might be repairable, might not.....need to measure it up, be it with a gauge or indicator, find out what you have going on before giving up or proceeding.
